BLACK VIKING

Rather than gluing them in the steps inside the hull set them in place and wedge them where they pass through the deck as was done on the actual ship.  If that is going too far, a dot of glue where they pass through the hole in the deck should be sufficient and it is located where you can unglue it with IPA or water if necessary.  The standing rigging should add more security to this little bit of gluing to keep them in place.    
Allan
 
 

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

After a long planking effort it’s finally starting to take shape with details. 
 
Everything has to come together almost perfect for the rear removable section to fit. One picture shows what needs done to fit the top of the removable part. I fiddled with this to get it all to fit glued it together while fitting it so it would fit well. So far so good.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spent a great afternoon exploring the aircraft carrier Yorktown in Charleston harbor. Very interesting the life of sailors on these incredible old ships. To think modern day aircraft carriers are so much larger.  

Adding the pennants. I had to revise the pennants - the "staffs" were made of bits of a weed growing across the road - circular section, beautifully thin - ready-made staffs! Unfortunately the glue wouldn't stick to them (I think they have a waxy surface), so right in the middle of things the pennant would come adrift from its staff. So I made replacements out of wood. Much more work, but the glue stuck to them. 
 
I glued a bit of cotton to each fighting top, then put a short loop of cotton from one end of the "flagstaff" to the other. Then soaked the loop with a weak mix of PVA (white) glue and water., and hung the loop from the aforementioned bit of cotton attached to the fighting top and added weights, so the loop became a triangular shape.

Then I scrunched up the pennant so it looked like the wind was blowing it, and added a dab of PVA glue wherever the pennant crossed the rigging, to keep it in place (otherwise gravity would take over and it would hang unnaturally). The one below had to be clamped as well - it kept sagging off the rigging.

By the way, no captain in his right mind would have these huge things flapping around while the ship was under way. They'd get in the way horribly, and could even knock sailors off the rigging.
 
Antepenultimate* pennant added:
 
 
And - FINISHED!
 

20230520_121919.mp4  
Steven
 
*Third last.
 
 

Planking and planking and planking. 
Big pieces are done. It needs filler planks now. 
 
The instructions lack in this area. It shows the other side very well. This side is ‘tad da, planked’. It all gets painted black so not a big deal. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Here's the patched-up seam. I first filled it without about three passes of canopy glue, then applied a thin wash of appropriate edge color, followed by a shot of matte clear spray to take the shine off the filler. It doesn't look too bad -- certainly not the Polish Touch, but better than the untreated gap looked. Naturally, bright lighting and closeup photography makes it look worse than it does at normal viewing distances and lighting.
 

 
And here's the rest of the spine.
 

Framing for dorsal hump and vertical stabilizer has been added -- calling it a night. Not all of the transverse bulkheads come up to the height of the dorsal profile piece; I'm not sure what the deal is there, but I'll find out once I start adding the skins.
 

Yes, I see them now you point them out! Naturally my question was prompted by wanting to do the floor timbers and get them right.
 
BTW, as far as strange ways of fitting mast steps, at least one of the Yenikapi ships had a mast step that was totally free-floating - not fixed to the hull at all! No idea how they made that work.
 
Now some progress on the model.
 
On coming back to it after several weeks, I decided the hull was too tubby and re-calculated the shape using the Mezza Luna method. You can see the new outline offset somewhat from the original. (sorry, it's a really rubbish photo).

Using My Precious, I cut a bunch of futtocks and then smoothed them off, as being very inexperienced with my new toy I cut well outside the lines:
 

Then I cut out the parts of the keel and stem and sternposts. And courtesy of the local Men's Shed I was able to smooth them down with their nice disc sander. (When you asked me earlier if I had one, I thought you meant a sanding disc, such as you'd attach to an electric drill. I've certainly got one of those, but the disc sander is so much better.) And yes, there's a very mild catenary to the keel.

And I cut and smoothed off all the rest of the futtocks. 

That still leaves the floor timbers, and the frames for the bow and stern to do, but it's good having finished this part of the project. It means I'm now free to go ahead with the next steps.
 
Steven
 
 
 
Steven

Making a little progress on the Mizen mast, the lower and top mast shrouds, lanyards and ratlines are completed. While I will not be displaying any canons on the ship, I will display three of them at the base to represent the ones found, so here's a sample one using what's supplied in the kit, I'm still pondering whether or not to add the eye bolts, if I do, I'll use 32ga wire for scale purposes.
Thanks for looking.
Michael D.

Well here we are the end of this build.  Thank you all for following along on the two part adventure! 😁
 
Some final pictures of the S2C in its place on the shelf, next to the dusty old S2B (Airfix 1990's mould.)  

Port side masked and painted silver. Let this dry while I start painting the wings and stabilizers next.

Silver is one of the more forgiving paint colors when masking. It almost never creeps under a mask. It feels good when you peel that mask off and it looks okay, like hey, I didn’t waste my time. 😬
 

I followed the Contarina 1 wreck which indicates  the floors are carved in such a way as to support two short planks. the mast is held between these planks and blocks fore and aft which may well be part of the keelson. In other words, the mast  sits on the keelson but the side planks are held by the floor and against the keelson. Weird, eh!
Dick

Planking and planking and planking. I’m trying to go slow enough each one is just as it should be. The build moves quickly until this stage. 
 
It’s getting unruly to hold on to for planking. It’s quite heavy also.
 

 

 

 

 

Quarterdeck planking done.

Ahoy, lovers of 16th to early 17th c. ships !    My review of the massive vintage Sergal kit designed in 1975 can be found elsewhere in the forum, and I won't re-hash much if anything covered there (in the review section) ... in fact, the kit review nearly 'morphed' into a build log (never my intent) - so I was bound to eventually do a build after finishing the Vasa log - or so I thought.
 
  So in taking a break form the Swedish ship, I started accumulating pictures of a re-design of the Great Henry's framing ... and as the photos mounted I realized that a 'backlog' was accumulating, and would make for a lot of work sorting and getting any future log started.  Well, we're used to many logs taking years to complete, and I'll most likely hop back and forth between the two and add occasional additions to both logs as stuff gets done.
 
  The full name of this ship is Henry Grace a Deiu (HGaD), and there is a great build of her at 1:200 already completed in the forum.  It was a larger and more heavily armed version of the Mary Rose (MR), built in response to the Scottish leviathan Great Michael.  There are several reference books on these ships, so I won't go into that here.  Having a substantial section of the Mary Rose recovered and on display in England provides a wealth of information not just on the hull lines and construction methods, but this information can be used for the Great Henry (or Great Harry - GH either way) - as well as to correct what are perceived today as inaccuracies with the vintage Sergal kit.
 
  'Hard to figure the thinking in marketing a limited release of a premium, large-scale  kit back then, - and they might have done better with with a more manageable version, as the development and tooling could have been amortized over a higher production volume (ergo lowering the price point).  The Anthony Roll was known back then, so the somewhat fanciful configuration of the fore and stern castles is amusing.  The kit, as issued, is high quality and the framing parts fit well with a minimum of fussing.  But we'll see what i have to do to get a more modest sized model conforming much better to what is now known from the MR.
 
  Below is a portion of the kit framing to give you an idea of the size.
 

After a break to clear the Admiral's extensive project list, which apparently take precedent over a humble work space, the six roof frames are now complete apart from a final sanding.

The ply reenforcing pieces glued and screwed to the corners have been modified to take the spacing beams. These beams have been machined to profile and are made from treated pine off-cuts from a flight of sleeper based garden steps built last year. The ends have been widened and extended following Ron's suggestions. I was hoping to cut pairs of knees to go either side of each end to fix the frames to the top of the wall panels but was scuppered by the bandsaw blade snapping. New blade due to arrive at the end of the week......
Cheers,
Graham.

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

Your on it... pre June '44 configuration... Also they didn't backdate aircraft in the field when they made the change to all black... (the scheme was production only going forward) I agree, the aircraft in the Museum is probably a postwar aircraft....
 
Nice pics...

Reached out a little more EG  to a friend in the UK since Mr. Brooks passed a few years ago but the friend passed photos of a wartime crate for me.I am going to add that the handle to the joystick looks brown maybe with the bottom being black that holds it to the stick.The reflector gunsight while SH/Revell says black the mounts are either IGG/Silver a change there?This is a Typhoon
Hi Kevin,

Wartime Tempest and Typhoon were normally matt black down to the elbow-level tubular frame, and Cockpit Grey Green below this.
All of the tubular framework was most often dull silver, although in the photos below ( a Typhoon cockpit) they appear to be the Grey Green.
The heel boards could be silver or matt black, probably scuffed.
The back and head armour was matt black, as was the area under the canopy, with the seat normally in dull silver.
Hope this helps,
 

Plodding along. Lower lights are done. They stick down to far, I smashed it all together as tight as I could get it. The method they suggest to build the lights up doesn’t make it dense enough. 

Planking on the starboard side has started. 
 

 

 

 

I’m not sure if planking ever ends. One side is almost complete. A bit of fill at the bottom remains. Trimming and sanding needed too. Not to bad so far. 
 

If they got caught would they have herd amunaty 

If they got caught would they have herd amunaty