BLACK VIKING

Dutch 17th Century Ship Models in Paper
An Introduction to Scratch Building Paper Ship Models
by Ab Hoving and Emiel Hoving
2024 Seawatch Books
USD $75.00
 

All photos courtesy of Seawatch Books
 
Long-time members of MSW will need little introduction to Ab Hoving, a man well known as a curator, modeler, and expert on 17th century Dutch shipbuilding. His exceptional knowledge in these areas is on display in his latest book, Dutch 17th Century Ship Models in Paper: An Introduction to Scratch Building Paper Ship Models. I really don't need to say much regarding the topic and intended purpose of the book, since both are plainly stated in the title and subtitle. Rather, I will focus on the Big Question that any potential buyer of the book will undoubtedly have in mind when thinking about putting the book in his or her shopping cart at Seawatch:
 
Can I actually build a card model of a 17th century Dutch ship using the methods outlined by Mr. Hoving in this book?
 
I believe the answer to that question is a solid yes. First of all, Ab's method will not be completely foreign to anyone who has built a wooden ship model from a kit -- it's a take on the classic plank-on-bulkhead technique, starting with a longitudinal hull profile and a set of bulkheads. Instead of wood, the hull is built up from card stock. After a first planking in card, the hull is then 'planked' with self-adhesive plastic film (this is the method that we have seen so expertly done by MSW members Doris and Firdajan).
 
Ab walks the builder through two models, a relatively simple smalschip ("narrow ship") and a more complex pinas. Templates for the framing and planking of both models are provided in the book, and digital copies are available at Seawatch's website for those who have purchased a copy. Of course, after the basic hull is constructed, it needs to be appropriately painted. One of the things I have always appreciated about Ab's models is the high degree of realism they project as a result of his particular painting and weathering techniques. These are outlined in the book as well.
 
The book has some interesting selling points in addition to being a how-to on card modeling. The first few chapters are devoted to the vagaries of modeling Dutch ships due to the paucity of original source material (and the reasons for why such is the case), how the author has coped with those limitations, and how his research and his model building are inextricably linked (we who enjoy Ab's models should therefore be thankful for his intense desire to understand a subject as admittedly esoteric as 17th century Dutch shipbuilding practice). The book is also richly illustrated, both with diagrams and with beautiful photographs of the author's models. I was quite surprised, in fact, to learn that the book's photos depicted Mr. Hoving's models and not original works by the Dutch masters! His photo compositions are that convincing. Readers will be pleased to learn that the book describes exactly how to create such compositions using Photoshop.
 
To summarize, purchasers of this book will receive some interesting insight into the author's research and background, detailed descriptions of how to build two different Dutch ships using a technique that can readily be used for other ship model subjects, a plethora of beautiful photographs suitable for any coffee table, and a treatise on how to create life-like photographic compositions incorporating one's own models. That makes it a worthwhile addition to most anyone's library.
 

 

 

 

 

Post 14
Onto First Planking
For the past week I have been busy planking the hull.
The Gunport patterns have been fitted and trimmed to fit the stern counter and I’m liking the look of her.
My younger modelling self of the 1970’s/80/s would be amazed  to get this far in only three weeks of work.
 
First Planking.
This is in 5 x1mm Limewood and the kit provides a good standard of timber.
I have covered my first layer planking method in my previous builds, so I won’t go fully into it here.
Suffice to say I use a combination of taper, edge bend, bevel, tick marks, and eye.

035

033
Having completed seven strakes down from the Gunport pattern, the Garboard strake is fitted using a wider 7mm limewood strip.

038

040

046

041
This is followed by the adjacent plank using 6mm strip.
 Planking continues….
 
B.E.
05/01/2025

Very nice work, Doug. Looking very good.
 
As I mentioned earlier, I chickened out on adding netting on my own Great Harry, but I found gauze at a fabric store that would have done the job nicely. You know, the stuff that goes on bridal gowns etc. Might be worth checking out. Probably synthetic, but what the hey. I chose black, firstly because the original stuff was probably tarred, secondly so it didn't grab the attention too much away from the rest of the ship.
 
Probably on what is known as a pavesade - basically just a railing that holds shields. They were probably tied to the rail by a rope passing through their enarmes (the straps at the back that you hold the shield by). That's certainly what I did with the shields on my dromon build, and it worked fine (though you have to make sure you get the alignment right).
 
Steven
 

Thanks for the kind words everybody!
 
Here's my next update, but first:
 
Oh, I'll definitely be giving it a go! I've got some boxwood lying around so at some point it's definitely on the agenda - as is a trip to the museum to go see the real thing 😁
 
Yes, these are the issues I've been dealing with as well - and it's something I'm going to have to consider very soon as I think the nets will have to go in around the same time as the masts. I think I'll probably go with something similar to Mcelvogue's interpretation, though Marsden also has some input which I need to review. My other concern is actually sourcing a net that's that fine; I think judging by the scale I need around a 1.5mm hole size and probably about 0.8mm cordage - not really something I want to make myself, but I suspect that might be the only option. I did buy some sample fabric on etsy, but it was far too heavy for my purposes. I was also thinking of perhaps using some hessian fabric (burlap or jute for the non-UK speakers here) I have lying around, but even that seems too coarse. I'll keep looking.
 
Yeah, the Anthony Roll also has the shields in the waist, and the Embarkment painting has them on the forecastle as well - but how they'd have been mounted is completely unknown!
 
Agreed the boarding nets wouldn't have been permanent, but for sure at least some of the support structure for them must have been. Looks to me like there was a sort of A-frame 'tent' structure on the sterncastle, and then the waist has a central walkway from which the nets were supported on spars - much like @Louie da fly detailed above.
 
On with my (small) update for today!
 
I carried on with the decking on the sterncastle's poop deck:

A bit of a weird shape resulting in a jigsaw puzzle, this, but it looks pretty good now it's done.
 
And then I tackled the railings. I wasn't keen on doing an open railing - I love what @Baker has done on his version, but I certainly don't have his artisanal skills and I doubted my own ability to make it look as good.
 
First I built up the sides and added a series of 9mm uprights:

These are spaced around 30mm apart, but I did play a little fast and loose with this, as at this point in the build nothing is quite square any more. Sue me.
 
I promptly forgot to take a single photo between this and completing the railing on this side. So here it is:

As you can see, I have interpreted the cross-hatching on the Anthony Roll image as a series of uprights which support the railing. As mentioned in the previous post, all of the strips of slightly reddish sapelli veneer will eventually be painted with the red and yellow stripes, just like the forecastle.
 
Here's the other side:

This side was a pain in the *** to get right - the whole thing is, it turns out, about 1.5mm off level. All things considered, less than it could have been, and not really noticable, but a huge nightmare when you've only got the right wood in 4mm widths. Ah well!
 
Shortly after this was taken, I added in the clinker planking on the exposed pine midway up at the front of the sterncastle wall.
 
And then I moved to the back!

 
Here you can see me building up the transom and testing out where the cannon will go. As you can see, I'm not building up the carriages properly, ommitting the wheels and the rear structure of each - only I, and everyone who sees this, will ever know!
 
I tried to follow the structure shown in the Anthony Roll as much as possible in this build, and for the most part it was just a puzzle of working out how to fill up the gaps and create something that'd be strong enough to support itself and the planking over the top. It's a little bit of a bodge in places, but I think it's come out looking great.
 
Here's the planking over the middle set of cannons:

Again, the strip of sapelli will be painted with stripes. In the Anthony Roll this stripe is actually above the ports, but this lines up with the stripes on the side of the sterncastle, so I thought it would look a bit better.
 
Next the top deck:

 
This posed a little bit of a challenge as I needed to include the middle window, and so I had to move where I'd initially planned to put the cannon ports. Not a major issue, but one that some better pre-planning would have avoided. I'm ver pleased with my uprights here; they all required a very slight curve that was a pleasure once I got it right.
 
N.b there aren't any obvious uprights in the Anthony Roll's depiction of this section, but I'd rather have these on the outside as it breaks up what would otherwise be rather bland clinker planking.

Speaking of which:

Here she is!
 
This is really beginning to look, to excuse the pun, ship-shape. I'm super pleased with how this bit has come out.
 
Next I'll be working on the aft side of the forecastle and the fore side of the sterncastle, at which point I'm very nearly done with the bulk of the initial build.
 
Thanks again for all the lovely comments and the engagement with this build.
See you next time!
 
 

Happy New Year Michael!
 
Glad to see you resume your terrific work on this model!
 
Frank

I've completed the fabrication of the topgallant and royal masts along with the associated top bases, these measurements are taken out of John McKay's book, this is all still in a very rough in stage at this point, fabricating the rest of the topgallant top will be especially challenging as the base only measures out to 8mm in dia = to approx. 4-1/2 ft at scale.
 
Michael D.
 

So. Ow this is done, the traversing arm arrived 

Just rigging up the deadeyes for the Fore topmost Shrouds in my usual unorthodox way. The modelling wire on the lower deadeye will go through the hole on the crowsnest then I will bend it up into a loop, where I can then tie the Futtock Shrouds from, this is the same way I rigged the futtock Shrouds on my Occre Endeavour build.
The 2nd pic below is for information only as to what I mean, not taken from my Endeavour build.
 

 

Assembling the cockpit required one evening's work.
 

 

My first selfmade Sail

Hello!
 
While I was away on Christmas vacation for a week, my Next Project (which I ordered on my birthday back in August) still did not arrive at my house, though the Polish Post swears it is on its way. So in lieu of the Next Project I have decided to go ahead with an interim next project. I have chosen to build the Fokker D.VI from MPModel for a couple of reasons:
The D.VI is mercifully short of rigging. The model is designed by Marek Pacynski.  
That second point needs some additional explanation. Mr. Pacynski's designs have been a mixed bag for me (see here for a prior example). I have completed two of them, but two others wound up in the trash can. The two finished models were both WW2 monoplanes; this one is a WW1 biplane. I have many of the other MPModel biplane kits designed by Mr. Pacynski in my stash, so this one is a guinea pig of sorts -- a build to see how the Pacynski WW1 kits stack up against the WW2 kits. Call me a masochist, but I'm always willing to give a designer another chance at redemption.
 
The D.VI, of which only 59 examples were built, is a relatively small and simple aircraft, so this kit shouldn't take too long to build if everything goes together with a minimum of fuss. That's what we're here to find out if it will do.
 
Stay tuned!
 
P.S. Mr. Pacynski is nothing if not extremely prolific -- you'll note that this kit is #9 in the MPModels series. That line now includes a whopping 124 titles.
 

 

Standing rigging and ratlines now complete, less bowsprit shrouds (WIP).  I should get through the yards, sails and running rigging fast enough.  I think this will be the last (and my first) rigged model I build for a while.


 

The second plane has been a little easier.  I realized that the cowling shapes differed between the B-1 which was my kit versus the B-2 which i am modeling.  It helped a lot having the Hobby 2000 B-2 boxing for the other model so that I had a model to convert the B-1 cowlings.  It wasn't too difficult, and I didn't try to make them absolutely perfect given that the engines are going to be tarped anyway (all I needed was the general shape):
 
//forum.largescalemodeller.com/uploads/monthly_2024_12/IMG_2001.thumb.JPG.d047d02dad81ca13a2981104c0c1726f.JPG
 
With the cannon pod removed from the plane in this diorama, I realized that all that would be remaining would be the cannon rack as well as the open space in the bottom of the fuselage for the ammo, etc.  So, I cut open the bottom of the fuselage similar to how I did the other.  Much easier this time around as I didn't have the various aftermarket detail pieces in the fuselage so the fuselage was essentially hollow.  After cutting, all I really had to do was line it which was fairly easy.  I'll scratch the cannon rack and add it separately at the end of the build.   
 
//forum.largescalemodeller.com/uploads/monthly_2024_12/IMG_2068.thumb.JPG.bd386bf2199af5a10db120d00d421731.JPG
 
This model is also primed, so I can start throwing on some color tomorrow:
 
//forum.largescalemodeller.com/uploads/monthly_2024_12/IMG_2066.thumb.JPG.7e0bd37bd2cd77c4b75809d339f3a135.JPG
 
https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/uploads/monthly_2024_12/IMG_2067.thumb.JPG.99f7db633e2b305707778546b10936f8.JPG
 
Thanks for looking in!
 
 
 

Post 12
More patterns to add.
The final action of this section is to add the stern counters and Gunport patterns.

0272
The lower counter is fitted first, I soaked this piece before clamping into place.

0276
The Upper counter follows; I did need to tweak this a little to follow the run of the Lower.

0285

0286
The lower counter includes the discharge hole for the Port side seat of ease, quaintly described as the ‘Necefsary’ on the Adm Plan.
 
Gunport patterns

0304
The forward end was soaked, clamped around a tube, and given the heat treatment.

0295
The parts can then be dry fitted along the hull.

0297
There is a guide-line on the pattern to match with the line of the ply sub-deck, to maintain the ports at the correct level above deck.

0337
On this basis, where the pattern reaches the stern I found it sat just below the level of the stern deck cabins. Not entirely sure if this is correct, but there is not a profile drawing of this stage on the plans. The Manual photos would suggest perhaps not, but not very clear on this particular aspect.
 
Still, I am where I am, and I need to maintain the gunport levels.
 
The Starboard side pattern was fitted using pins and pva.
It goes without saying that glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions, but I did glue against the side of the stern cabins, and the forward end into the prow slot. Diluted glue was then run along the joints below the sub deck. Before pinning I Painted glue on the bulkheads below the subdeck.

0306

0311
The Portside was fitted 24 hrs later, but firstly I checked that the sides were level with each other. Once satisfied I pinned and glued as before.

0336

0343
Some tidying up and then onto planking.
 
B.E.
28/12/2024
 

SOLEIL ROYAL UPDATE : 
the Lower ratlines are now complete from the Spritsail, Foremast, Main and Mizzen mast, with 942 clove hitches being tied in the process.
Now moving on to rig the deadeyes/shrouds for Top masts of the Fore, Main & Mizzen.

Before airbrushing, I brushed on a thin coat of wood filler and water on the whole body, sanded with 400 paper, then used a rattle can to spray on a white latex primer. The final paint finish turned out pretty well with that prep.
Tim

I have completed the Flying Dutchman!!  Rigging the sails was challenging, given the lack of a plan view of the rigging.  The directions that are provided left a lot to interpretation and the directions did not match the picture of the completed ship provided with the kit.  I made a few incorrect assumptions and had to circle back to correct so as not to get lines crossed up or to make room to tie off to the pin rails.  I continue to learn more with each build (especially what not to do )and the Dutchman provided a great platform for learning and opportunity to improvise without negatively affecting the finished product model.  It all worked out and I am happy with the result!  On to the next project!

Also working on replacing the stern lantern with a scratch build version I can add an led to.
 

Thank you for the brilliant comments.  Hopefully will be a update soon as I have been working on the rigging 
Martyn 

The Mizzen mast ratlines went well , the fore mast needs some straighting out but I will finish it up after Christmas.  The Party 
Is beginning, so Pile gave everyone the rest of the week off. Party time.
 I started sending my crew mates Emails say Merry  Christmas, I sent 10 now it says I have reached the maximum amount of messages for one day try latter. Lol that's a frist for me.
 So to all members and staff at MSW/NRG. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.  And to all have a great New Year.
Bob  M.
PFCGP 
Goober . 
MERRY CHRISTMAS.  

 
 

Goober said he left all the served lines in the box, we looked at the plans all the way to page 13. Looked for every .5 mm line=F, figured out what we needed and served it all, today.

We  should have enough  lines , but it's real eazy to serve up a few feet of which ever size we need.
Then , yes I started the ratlines, rusty but it'll do 
.

Meet Runner the boys hired him , and soon had him running lol.

Adjusting ratlines on the foremast then run up the Mizzen mast to see if we can do anything with the shroud. 

on his way down Pile yelled stop.

Right there, this is were Runner will end up when we are finished.  It is to hide my first attempt at Futtock shrouds.  Lol. Its a blob , but it will be  hidden by Runner . 

Thank you everyone for the likes, with mates like you guys we can't go wrong.  Thank you all.  😊. 
 

Ok my freinds, Merry Christmas.  I have to get to my ratlines. I will do up to the platforms  then run the lines for the topgallant.  Then finish the rest of the ratlines.  My only joy is that there is a whole lot of ratlines on the Pegasus. .
  I still can't believe  how much fun modeling is. I definitely am in my happy place  today.     
Knocklouder & Crew !!
.
 

Post 9
Completing the deck beams.
Adding the carlings completes this stage of construction.
Preliminary to this I took the precaution of planking the inner faces of some of the aft partitions, as I don’t know at this stage how much may be seen.

0220

0221
The fit of the deck beams is very precise, a joy to work with, and how good to see nicely laid out scale beams, a tribute to Chris’s design skills.
Note: the Stove needs to be fixed in place before the Carlings that support the Upper deck grating are added.

0207
This is a neat little resin item engraved with all the major features one would expect to find.

0212
I painted the stove with Vallejo Black, highlighted with Black/Grey. A light touch of weathering powders was then applied.

0217
Not a very clear view of the stove will be possible, but I will seek to maximise it.

0206
I do like to open up the lower deck to reveal as much as possible, but there is a trade-off with the Upper deck detail which has to take precedence.

0204
I think Harpy will prove trickier than Indy to get the effect I am looking for.
The next stage is playing around with the deck pieces to get a feel for the planking layout.
 
B.E.
22/12/2024

Finished one side above the wales. Will have to ask on this site about bending the wales as I don’t think my current method with the Admiral’s hair tongs will do the business but that’s later. Afterwards changed image to one showing better scarf joint only left hand length of wales is fixed. Most likely remove brass pins later.
 
 

Lind,
 
This is all I use a LED panel using 240v power. I find placed at the side creates less shadow on the side of ship I’am working on. Not particularly powerful 11.5W. I bought it in B & Q a UK superstore. I prefer natural daylight whenever possible. SORRY misread your post you meant internal lighting in the ship.