BLACK VIKING

Here are some faces.  They look half decent from a foot away, not happy with the outcome and the method: airbrush base color, brush on Vallejo Matte Resin, black wash, remove with Q-Tip, Toothpick (wood and flexible).  
 
I tried airbrushing Model Color and it clumped on some of the faces.  And the black wash was to dark, to me the faces look like guys who are grimy auto mechanics.  Next time will try a brown wash.
 
And the resin prevents adding shading color.
 
On the plus side, built up the acrylic brushing skills - a touch of thinner before loading the brush with color helps.
 
The men are going into the box, not worth the time.
 

NJ State Police and NYPD sent rescue teams to the Asheville area, too. They have heavy rescue skills for extracting folks from under wreckage.

Absolutely! 

Ulster County NY has sent crews to NC and Florida as has Albany NY. 

Indeed  Ken,    hope  he  gets  things  sorted soon.
 
OC.

These storms had tornadoes along the east coast of Florida. His power grid must be garbage right now. We, up in NC got help from as far away as Calgary, Alberta up in Canada. So trying to get crews down there may take some time. Thoughts and prayers for folks in those areas.

So good progress today, exhausts done, the yello finished and my first Ork! 

Primer coat down. Again it’s nice working in a large scale. Found a few gaps that need fixing before I progress 

Thanks
I have never felt so important in my entire life 😇.
I am starting to blush 
 
The first sketch of how the base (the lowest deck) should be.

 

Good to hear OC !

Oh poor you, we must look dreadful in focus! 😆
Glad you are fixed up! 🤓

Got my glasses  today   -  I can see  you all  now.
 
OC.

The channels on the bow are ready.
Correct or not?? who knows ...

Current status

Next, the fore castle, an attempt to...

Good grief! 
 
Steven

Heaps of build options, I was never aware but this genre is MASSIVE! Some of the painting I saw in Malcom this year was out of this world good. 
 
some really big mold seams to get rid of but very well designed to hide most of them. After 3 sessions I’m ready for paint 

Could  get the I gallon  Red bottle  and  if you do not want to drink the  wine  first   -  leave  it in  and  build  the scene  in a  "Wine World"    yes  that was   wine world   not  "Waynes  World"
 
OC.

Hmm.. red wine.  Call it the "Red Sea".

That would make me a cheater, cheater, pumpkin eater!!  😲😲😲   I'm sure it would also violate something in the SIB builder's Pirate Codex and I know what happens in the Pirates of the Caribbean movies if anyone does that!   

Thanks for the replies. I did my usual thing and left them alone for 24 hours and just pondered solutions so I didn’t do anything stupid in the moment. It payed off. 
Thanks for the ideas and tips. I did shave just alittle off the plug as suggested. And then took a risk and applied some cement on the undercarriage and let it for a min to soften the plastic and then just forced it in and hoped for the best. I didn’t want to dry fit it incase it was the one shot I got for a good fit before broken bits started to compromise the join.
I managed to get them into place and glued a good solid join I hope, later I’ll fill it up with thin CA to give it more strength.
All the fits for this kit are super precise so I had that in mind and if the undercarriage legs were installed during the wheel well construction I think it would be another perfect fit (but not sure if the legs would fit through the underside of the wing to install at that point) Just incase anyone reads this before making their own.
 
So the undercarriage is installed and managed to do it without breaking any of the delicate details!
all the parts are installed now and the yellow nose and tail is painted. Starting on the decals
 

Thanks for the reminder, when I got the super fine silver and duralumin I also got some super iron just for that part. I’ve heard the colour can be hard to tell apart easily so I’ll paint it black underneath and so a very thin coat until it looks right.
I'm still wondering if the silver paint had too much white and needs toning down back to be abit more silvery. At some angles it’s great at other angles it’s quite a late contrast! But I’m not sure.
 
added the black stripes. 
 

Under the main wing strips I’ve got some chipping fluid. So I’ll roughen those up shortly
 
 

I used to only build in 1/72 scale when I was a kid, but between my aging eyes, being accustomed to working in 1/33 scale for nearly two decades now, and seeing your hand in the picture for scale, my first thought was, "Dang, that's little!"

Good afternoon everyone (at least, it's afternoon where I am), thanks for all the likes and comment!
 
A bit of progress to report! The cockpit and interior components went together well, and fitted into their proper locations without any issues. Big difference from my Skua build, no guessing, everything fits positively.
 
After a bit of dry brushing with some silver to simulate worn paint, I added the rear bulkhead along with the pilot's seat as well as the instrument panel (with the rudder pedals). This was then followed by the radiator/oil cooler core in the chin.
 

 
You can see the little alignment tab for the radiator core. The bulkhead slid into a slot on the cockpit side. As there is now a fair degree of resin parts in the cockpit, CA glue was needed to secure everything. I dry fit the other fuselage half to ensure everything dried in the correct position.
 

 
A quick last look at the instrument panel before everything is buttoned up. I then took my first two deviations from the kit instructions. After assembling the fuselage (which fit wonderfully, and only needs a bit of fine sanding along the seams), the next step calls for the installation of the wing. The instructions would have you assemble the wing halves before adding them to the airplane. I attempted this in a dry-fit and found the things weren't going to work that way. I found it was easier to add the top of the wing to the fuselage first, then add the lower half of the wing after the upper has dried.
 

 
Another testament to the improvements being made at SH, there are no gaps in the wing roots to speak of. The joint is obvious right not because of the overspray from earlier, but they should look better once there's a proper coat of paint on. Another deviation was how the propellor will eventually mount. SH seems to have a thing against spinning props for some reason. I, for one, prefer the spin-y bits to spin. a bit of  1/16" styrene rod, along with some 1/8" tubing (to act as a backing plate) and I should be able to mount the propellor to that to enable it to spin freely.
 
The lower half of the wing was then added (don't forget to add the little clear part for the landing light!)
 

 
It slotted in nicely and only a little tape was needed to secure it while the glue dried. There is a small gap at the leading edge of the wing (this is the first one I've found!):
 

 
A little bit of filler and some sanding should have that nicely tidied up (there's another small gap on the other side in the same location). The intake for the chin fairing was added just before adding the wings.
 
The last bit of work done to date was to add the rudder and horizontal stabilizers.
 

 
These all fit nicely, in keeping with the kit quality experienced so far. There's not too much left to add before paint starts flying. Hopefully for my next update, there will be some colour!
 
Andy
 

Here is another photo I took while in London. Adm Nelson’s tomb is located in St Paul’s Cathedral. 

Managed to do a bit of the mahogany layer on bottom over the summer
 
going about it in a strange way likely but I find the flat bottom quite different to the usual ship hull 
 
9I also had an idea to add the engine and have the compartment open
spent time looking at Chris Craft engines from the late 1930’s 
seems to be inline 6 usually
 
I searched for 3D inline 6 engines and found a few sinam printing sample parts to see if they will work
gone back to my Morgan for a change of pace for now