BLACK VIKING

Lind,
 
This is all I use a LED panel using 240v power. I find placed at the side creates less shadow on the side of ship I’am working on. Not particularly powerful 11.5W. I bought it in B & Q a UK superstore. I prefer natural daylight whenever possible. SORRY misread your post you meant internal lighting in the ship.

Fore castle update

The general shape is ready, my own free interpretation. In the open parts on the middle deck shields still have to come

Current status

Progress was slow in decamber. because...
Went ice fishing in Lapland

Dreamed about a big (fish) catch... 😇

Actually I like cats more then dogs, but this was fun

And the aurora borealis was fantastic

And in between a new small project

Thanks for following

Thanks OC.
I wanted to build a larger scale aircraft carrier because the aircraft would have been bigger and more detaied but that kit was more expensive. I have been eyeballing the larger USS Hornet though.LOL. Same with the Bismark but they would have taken up more room as it is these two GH and SR will fill the void. I did not know of this site when I built them so ya no log.  The 1/72 scale landing craft that I built for my museum display was also a great build which I added the Arty OP tanks, Priests with the porpoises, and universal carriers with wading equipment on all of them plus crew was a very pleasent build, It was a resin kit by Milcast. I noticed their no longer producing them or are out of stock. They also made a 1/35 scale as well but same story on supply. I wish I had pictures of it to show (may have some on file somewhere). Still deeply annoyed  that that guy gave it away, It was  $$$.
The large scale Yamamoto would  be nice to buld.
 
Thanks Baker as well. I will be adding more ribs as the build continues. Meanwhile as I wait till tomorrow to get a new blade belt  decided to make a start on 4 anchors. Small one is the 1/72 scale.
 
Question: the cannon and trucks of the GH, that would the size be in 1/35 scale of the various types used?
The 1/72 scale trucks  were 7.0 mm wide minus wheels X 18.3 mm length  X 5.9 mm high and the cannon are 31 mm wide by 32.5 mm length ( the upper deck guns “weather deck”?)  
Will also be adding swivel guns.  The trucks also look like they varyfrom 4 wheels to 2.
 
Thanks again for any and all info.
 

After completing the first layer (base color), I noticed a few small gaps that needed to be filled before moving forward


I chose to fill the gaps with superglue, not just because it was faster, but primarily because I needed a strong material that could hold securely.

The next step is to carefully sand the filled areas to avoid creating noticeable "steps" between the sanded sections and the painted surface
 

Thanks, everyone, for your kind comments and "likes"!
 
I have a small update to report, as some progress has been made over the last couple of weeks.
 
Most noticeably, the main decals and lettering have been applied! I always like this stage, as it gives the model an identity and some history. Overall, I would rate the DK Decals as being of great quality, clean crisp printing and thin decal film, as well as minimal film around the edges of each decal. The glue they use is somewhat stickier than that used by other decal brands. This means a bit longer of a soak in water, as well as a need to make good use of Micro Set when positioning each transfer. The decals set down quite nicely into the various folds and recesses of the plane without too much difficulty and the use of Micro Sol was not needed in most cases (but I used it anyway, just out of habit, and just in case). The shark mouth proved to be the most trickiest decal to get right, lots of gentle manipulation to get first one side in place, then the second. Thankfully the left and right sides came as two separate decals to make this process about as easy as it could be. As far as any remaining lettering, I'm down to the stencils provided in the kit supplied decal sheet. I am leaning towards sticking to the more prominent ones (like the fuel filler covers), rather than the litany of tiny fine stencils found elsewhere on the airplane.
 

 

 
I've also added a couple more important details. The prop and spinner have been added, as well as the engine exhausts. My modification to make the prop spin seems to be working well enough.
 

 
The remaining canopy parts have been masked and are ready for painting, and the landing gear is coming soon. Given how busy life gets around this time of year, it will take a couple of weeks picking away at things as time permits. I'm not going to be overly ambitious and claim that I'll have everything done by the New Year, but I should manage shortly afterwards. 
 
Thanks to everyone for your continued support!
 
Andy
 
 

Anime, yes, "Kiki's Delivery Service"

I've been adding a bit of colour here and there as a relief from being tweezer deep in the tiny world of HMS Galatea. Suddenly it looks like I have Kiki mostly complete. Its been an interesting exercise because she doesn't really have the human face I am used to with the white metal figures. She is based on an anime (if I have that right) so my painting methods have gone out of the window a bit. I need to tidy up the lips to get them even and a touch around the eyes. Maybe some satin gloss on the hair but otherwise I think I'll call it done. The cats eyes I am quite happy with given they are a cartoon style.

The figure comes with a background building section to mount the figure on. I decided to paint the building in very subdued colours to allow the colour of the figure to contrast. I'm not sure whether that's a good idea but we will find out shortly.


A nice print. The damaged plaster revealing the bricks underneath is very well done.
 
Thanks for looking in and the likes
 
Alan
 
 
 
 

Ready to begin painting! I'll start with a light grey enamel paint to prime the hull.
The neutral grey tone ensures it won't interfere with the subsequent colors (yellow and blue). Additionally, grey is ideal for spotting minor imperfections


I’ll be using an airbrush to apply color in thin, precise layers as needed.
This is my very first airbrush, over 30 years old! I got it back when I first started building plastic aircraft models

painting hull 1.mp4    

Great job BE, I really like the modifications you are doing on this kit. Regarding the cable storage I had a similar question a while back (though it related to a Cruiser class vessel, I was considering building). There is no clear indication if it was shelves or walled off, if it extended down to the hold or not. I did ask the question and got a number of responses which though not completely satisfying may help you as you try to puzzle this one out. Post #28 has some analysis on the plans for the Argus which seem to show the cable tier as only going half way up the height of the deck so maybe the access was on the top?
 

Thank you Glenn, I don't think Harpy would give you much  brain ache, a nice relaxing build I think.
@ Tom - I've got most of my Boxwood from the USA, and Estonia, altho' the stuff I'm using on Harpy is from the UK.
 
Post 5
Fitting the Lower deck
To complete the deck, w-o-p was applied to the boards, and a final light sand using p1000 paper.
To finish the scuttle covers 58 ring bolts are made up.
A repetitive and tiresome task but I prefer the look to ‘bent over’ eye bolts to represent these features.
For these I use Amati 2mm brass rings and fine eyelets. The holes were countersunk to allow the bolt part to sit lower in the cover.

0085
I still can’t get my head around this scuttle set-up, must have proven awkward walking about with that ring fest on the lower deck.
I have also mused about the purpose of the Sail Room. Was it used for storing sail tackle rather than canvas itself?

098
From the Adm. Plan the room is only 9’ x 5’ – a small garden shed in modern terms, not much room for large sails.

092
I can now peg the deck in place and add the cable housing sides, also secured by pegs.

088
These require gentle handling, the mdf will snap at weak points if lateral pressure is applied. It is also important to seat these fully down without pressure to accept the retaining pegs.
Because I planked the deck careful trimming of the edges was required to facilitate this.
This system is a joy to work with, no more messing about with temporary clamping, and use of tape to check the fit.

089
Regarding the cable store, I wonder how they got the cable into it? There is no apparent access either from the Lower deck or above, shown on the Adm. plan.

095
More puzzlements have occurred to me about this small vessel than any previous build I have done, a ship of mystery.
Time to carry on with a bit more of the basic construction.
 
B.E.
16/12/2024

Campbell has been out of business for quite a few years but many of their kits are available on eBay.  I am in the planning stages to build a micro layout in HO scale. By convention a “micro layout “ should be no larger than 4 square feet but have a reasonable operating purpose.  This is my first structure for the layout, though not my first Campbell kit.  I repurposed the building to be a small market with the owners living above.   I left off a lot of the gingerbread and added a small loading bay on the rear left. As I was typing I realized that I hadn’t installed the vent pipe on the roof.

Thanks.
 
Plywood ribs cut and temporary placed on keel with spacers but need to smooth them out. Need to make a desk clamp to hold level..

Frames are set (and staight!).  Deck planking now.  Forgot to start the pattern at the forecast deck but a brown colored pencil will probably look fine there. Getting leds set too.  Some of the smallest leds I've worked with.  I'm considering cutting a rectangle out of the back of the ship (below the overhang) and making that a sort of drawer to pull out the arduino (or batteries)  I'd basically cut it out and then put right back so I can plank it.  More to think about there.

The flywheel is now attached, as are two brass mounts which will be used to secure this assembly to the base.
 

 
 
The whole assembly is now fitted to the base. The flywheel is checked for clearance all around. 

 
 
The other bracket is now fitted to the main assembly and then drive belt wheel added. At this point, I have to tell you nothing is attached to this. The kit is simply to show you how this simple type of steam engine operates.

 
The boiler for this is comprised of two brass discs, secured with metal flanges and an internal rib and rubber gasket. On top of the boiler is a safety valve which will operate if the boiler goes over-pressure. 




 
 
Once the boiler is made, three standoffs are first fitted to the specific bolts that are used in certain circumferential positions. A firewall is then slipped between the two closest. This is to protect the main piston assembly from the alcohol pot. This boiler is then mounted to the base, and a silicone tube used to link the piston to the boiler.


 
The condensate chimney and safety valve are fitted.

 
 
Lastly, the alcohol pot is added. This is actually magnetic, meaning it won't flop about on the steel base, once it's lit and in operation. The part you see sat underneath is actual a flame damper, used to put out the pot. This will not sit here during operation. 

 
Now it's time to run the engine...

Decals/markings are added:


The figure is started:

And here’s the base:

Time to finish prepping for rigging and add the top wing!

Keep in mind that these reconstruction drawings are modern interpretations, and I for one can't see any evidence to justify these 'prows'. I like your way of doing it far better.
 
I think the angle of the bowsprit looks far closer to the Anthony Roll depiction than those of the two modern reconstructions. So go with it.
 
The height of the bulwark above the deck - one metre - is what is specified here in Oz for any structure such as a railing on a raised floor/balcony etc. So I think you're on the money there.
 
The triangular 'cabin' surprised me a bit. I would have thought the Anthony Roll shows the walls parallel to the sides of the forecastle. But this is very open to interpretation, and I'm by no means going to say you're wrong in doing it this way.
 
Overall, I'm gobsmacked. You're doing a beautiful job!
 
Steven

Excllent work,  I still  remember the  day when she was lifted in the Solent -  what  an event  on the tv.
 
OC.

I'd be interested in your research - though I've already added in my interpretation of the drawings I have for my model 😉 I hope your vacation is going well!
 
Here's today's update. After taking off the clinker over the gunport holes, I turned my attention fully to the forecastle this week.
Well, sort of fully - here's my 3D-printed bronze cannon, now painted bronze.
I'm very happy with how these have turned out. For the paint I used Army Painter Weapon Bronze, followed by a wash of Citadel Nuln Oil and a drybrush of both Weapon Bronze and Citadel Leadbelcher. I was tempted to add a little verdigris with some weathering powders I have, but I think that might be taking  it a little too far!
 
Here's two of them in place:

 
So. Forecastle.
In a previous post I mentioned that I was unsure about how to deal with the delta-shaped top of the lowest deck of the castle where it meets the second deck. In the end, I simply planked over it. This looks similar to some of the reference images I'm using, and I'm pleased with how these planks have fit together.

You can see here the offset hole I've cut for the bowsprit and the slight divot I've taken from the front supporting post to accomodate it as well.
 
And here's my solution for the pavisade gunports - I'll be replicating this on the sterncastle as well, though slightly differently as the ports are spaced slightly closer together there.

In McElvogue's book he has a lovely illustration of how these would have fit together, and I loosely copied that. The ports need a bit of cleanup in this photo, but they're far better representations of the various media than what I'd done before. Also in this photo note the white band across the middle where I'll be painting the yellow and red stripes depicted in the Anthony Roll. I used white painter's gesso for this as it's designed for use on wood and provides a very solid base coat - another layer still required.
 
For the top layer of ports I've created a similar pattern, but as these are smaller in the various sources I have I resorted to a bit of improvisation. Later on I filed out a little groove in the top of each port to create the same 'dimpled' shape as the lower ones.
 
Here's a couple photos of it in situ:


 
You can also see a sneak peek at my sterncastle progress - I stuck in the four cannon and have begun the pavisade gunports there too, but I'll update that properly in the next post. I'm happy with how the forecastle looks here, and though I am a little concerned about the height I think it does match the historical sources quite well.
 
Now onto the main issue that's caused me consternation over the last few days. First, let's look at the Anthony Roll's depiction of the forecastle:

 
And then here is McElvogue's drawing of it:

 
And Marsden's:

 
So my questions were mostly around the top 'cabin' and the two 'prows' that extend over the top deck and the cabin's roof. In McElvogue's work they're extremely pronounced, whilst in Marsden's they're nonexistent. I can't believe that Anthony Anthony would have added the slight curve forward in his illustration if it wasn't there, but it certainly doesn't feel like a sharp point is what we're working with here.
 
Additionally, both of the archaeologists have omitted any kind of railing on their top deck here, implying that there was no access to this point on the ship, and yet to manage the masts there must have been a need to climb up here. Certainly health and safety wasn't what it is today, but I'd be surprised if there was nothing at all, especially when looking at the Embarkation painting, which definitely has a pavisade-style railing, much like in the waist of the Mary Rose:

 
Here's my creation with the bowsprit in place against one of Marsden's drawings:

As you can see, the bowsprit on mine is at a much steeper angle - I could change this still, but it does appear to have been steeper based on the various historical sources, and McElvogue's book has it at around a 40 degree pitch.
 
For the prow, I initially experimented with creating something similar to McElvogue's work, bending a plank to meet a very pointed 'stempost' at the tip of the castle:

I think that if I'd got this to work, it would have looked quite nice, but after a lot of struggling I just couldn't make the planks sit right, and it didn't feel like the Anthony Roll's depiction at all.
 
I moved on to a slightly less prominent 'prow' (forgive me, I have no idea what this point should be called).

And this is what I've decided to go with - it still expands the top 10mm or so of the castle without creating a major headache of plank bending, and looks a lot more like the Embarkation painting.
 
Here's a view of the inside:

The two planks here raise the height around 10mm above the deck - that's just over 1 metre to scale. My plan is to have this as the railing of the top deck, and build up the cabin at the back of this structure.
 
So that's what I did:

Here's the cabin, with three supports to estimate a good height. This is 20mm above the railing planks, which I intend to lower slightly. You can see that I've planked over these with a very thin sapelli veneer; this will be the base for another strip of white gesso before I paint on the stripes.
 
And some walls on the cabin:

I again used some of the precut boards from the Caldercraft kit for this - I believe that these would have been part of the original forecastle, so it's nearly accurate 😉 I'll put in some more interesting planking around these once I'm happy with the basic structure.
 
And here it is on the ship:

 
And from the front:

 
I'm sure that this is deviating wildly from known historical evidence at this point, but ultimately it is a model, my first semi-scratch build - and I'm pretty damn pleased with how this has come out.
 
Do let me know your thoughts.
Thanks for reading!
 

oHalle

Port side of Fore Mast ratlines "done".
 
Not as disagreeable as I remembered but then this is only about 15% of the ratlines required.
 
Hopefully I will get better with more "practice" as I see several places where the line should have been shorter.
 
These are all clove hitches now that I have a detailed picture to go by. Somehow pictures (which I got from NRG) seem to help more than words.

I am hoping the gentle curve of the forwardmost shroud is an optical illusion because of the camera angle.
 
 
 

AFTER ANOTHER 3 HOURS
(Total 6 hours)
 
Progress is made. What amazes me is the detail of this model.
I've added what I think is going to be the quarterdeck, cannons, stairs, a larger boat with lashings, and more 'other' things.
 
 
 

 
Thanks for your encouragement and 'likes'.
Cheers,
Peter

We had that much snow last week but we then had what we call in this part of Canada “a chinook”  wind and now snow is all but gone.  The winds are warm blowing east off the Canadian Rocky Mountains, with temperatures some times going from -40C to + 15C in less than 24 hrs.
 
In other news as luck has it I found a Canadian 1 cent penny stamped “1976”  the year I graduated high school and the year of my deployment to Germany for a NATO fall ex.  A “2013” 10 cent dime the year I retired Both as a Reserve soldier (37 yrs) and as a Defence Science Bio/Chem Tech. (34 yrs).  And as luck would have it a “2024” 25 cent quarter with King Charles III on his first Canadian quarter as king. For those who may not know the profile for each monarch changes direction when one becomes king…or queen.
 
Today I laid a temporary keel rib layout using cardboard on the actual keel to work on hull form, plus get a feel of the size. Some of my art work in background.
 
My usual interuption by my little fur buddy “Gary” named by the grand sons. Wife wanted a small lap dog and we ended up with a neck dog LOL.

 
 

Thank you, guys!  The hospital cleared him to go home yesterday.  His kidney function returned to normal, and he’s no worse for the wear.  Thank you for asking.

and here it is cleaned up.
 

 
I would like to thank all those builders whose logs helped me along the way, of course Thunder @Thunder who without his help, I would not have even started this build. There are too many others to mention them all.
The Cutter cheerful, which is pretty close to this cutter 'Speedy' was one of the designs that helped me a lot, so I must give a special thanks to Chuck and his very clean design and his prototype build log. Thanks @Chuck your design and build log have been an inspiration to me, and will continue to be so for the rest of my build.
Then of course there is Crazy Craig @iMustBeCrazy who is a constant help with his wisdom and know-how.
 
This forum / website is such a brilliant resource to have found.
Tim

The model is painted and sealed:
 



The base is also made.
 
It is time to add the decals and paint the figure.
 
Then I’ll seal the model again and figure out how I’m attaching the upper wing, lol.