BLACK VIKING

Greetings Fellow Modelers,
 
Dan, Edward and Andy - thanks so much for the kind words and for stopping to take a look.  And thanks to all for the likes.  
 
 
This mess below is the backside of the rear wall.  After having the wall break apart at the styrene columns, I reasoned it was time to reinforce the thing with some strips of wood and absurd amounts of PVA.  I mixed the PVA with black acrylic paint so it can serve double duty and act as a light barrier as well.  The “exterior” lighting to be used on this model will be very bright, and without the black PVA, it will peek through all the cracks and eliminate the hope of a convincing scene.  I have also learned that the styrene has to be back-painted with the black goo to keep it from emitting a low translucent glow.
 

 
 
The display needs a point of interest in the right corner of the building – something attached to the building.  So, I added an electrical distribution panel.  Commonly, these panels have a face cover with an attached door that is larger than the metal box behind it.  This allows the panel to be flush mounted in a finished wall as well as surface mounted.  To represent this detail, a rectangular block of styrene is front faced with .005” (.127 mm) material.  A cover door of the same material is placed on top of that, and a piece of fine brass wire is glued to its edge pretending to be a piano hinge.
 

 
 
Conduits feeding and leaving the panel are brass wire and a few are styrene.
 

 
 
A piece of 3/32” basswood sheet is cut for the base and the walls are stood up and glued together.  Here on the left end of the display, the recessed wall section for the upper staircase is seen.
 

 
 
The end wall on the right side has been capped with a “steel” I-beam.  I placed a larger header over the doorway than I did on the windows not because the structure requires it, but because the visual weight of the smaller header just looked wrong.
 

 

 
With this post, I have caught up to the current state of progress on the model.
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

I got back to her on the 29th..........sanded the corners off the struts and added more CA to fill in the gaps.  a supprt strut for the main cabane struts needs to be added.  I cut them from the harder balsa and added them to the model.


the next step is to finish sanding the struts to blend the joints in better and get them painted.  from there I can cut the rear struts and put on the wing.  

more to come  

Hello Fellow Modelers.
 
Thank you Egilman, Jack, Paul, Keith, Roger, OC., Dan, Mark and Ken for your warm reception and comments.  I'm very pleased to have you following along.  And thanks to all for the likes and for stopping to take a look.
 
 
The model display is built as a separate module and simply fits into a rabbeted cutout in the face frame of the shadow box. The box and how the module fits into it looks like this.
 

 
The box is made from 1/2” poplar which is glued and clamped together. All pieces are mitered, and the only fastenings are a few beech biscuits that hold the face frame to the body. Poplar is soft enough to work easily, yet hard enough to maintain crisp edges. After sanding to the point where my fingers would no longer bend, a coating of pre-stain wood conditioner was applied to help promote uniform stain absorption and avoid a splotchy finish. Some furniture stain and few coats of semi-gloss poly complete the box.
 

 

 
 
Having lived with myself for quite some time, I know that if I build the vehicle first and it turns out all wrong, I might just be tempted to drop the whole project. Therefore, I'll outsmart myself and build the stage first.
 
Here's a top down view of the stage, just a rectangular room. The main lighting for the display will be “outside” lighting coming through the open door on the right, and from the windows along the back wall. The stairway provides some visual interest in the back corner, but it will also serve as a way to illuminate that end of the display. Light will shine down from the top of the staircase (where it penetrates the ceiling) and cast shadows through and across the stairs. Fill light will also be needed in the form a few ceiling pendants.
 

 
 
In the back wall drawing, the rectangular blue line represents the front opening of the shadowbox. There will be no front view of the upper stairs because it's located behind the face frame. Having only a partial side view of the upper staircase means the light source at the top won't be seen directly.
 

 
 
The walls are a steel frame structure with brick infill. The “steel” is Evergreen columns and I-beams.
 

 
 
It is assembled with solvent cement and primed with Badger Stynylrez gray. After the primer dried, small amounts of rust colored pigment powders were applied. Finally, graphite powder was scraped off a #2 pencil and rubbed on with a small silicone color shaper to give select areas an uneven metallic look.
 

 
 
The wall sections are cut (razor saw) from blank panels of Hydrocal brick material. Cutting the window openings was a tedious file and fit operation because it had to be exact in order to accept the injected molded windows. Masonry window frames fit into the wall and they don't have jambs or outer casing trim to cover gaps.
 
I'm using up some older HO brick stock from C.C. Crow which I'm not sure is even sold anymore. Typically, I use material from New England Brownstone.
 

 
 
Because I'll be using indirect lighting, I think dark walls would suck all the light out of it, so I decided on painting the brick white.  But I want to be able to pull some of that white layer off to reveal the red brick underneath.  I always use gouache to color hydrocal/plaster because it is dead flat, blends color easily, and I like the results.
 

 
 
But I can't use gouache here because the slightest bit of moisture reactivates it, so washes and over painting are not possible.  A different approach was required, and I ran into some unexpected difficulties.  First, was the tendency of both layers of paint to pull off together, when I all wanted was the top layer to chip off.  Sometimes it took plaster with it.  Also, I only want the white layer to pull off the face of the bricks and leave the paint behind in the grout lines.  Using the old hairspray standby to release the upper layer wasn't the answer because that method is unpredictable, and the paint chipped wherever it wanted and not just off the face of the individual bricks.  I'm not in love with the result, but here's what I ended up doing.
 
First, I pre-wet the hydrocal with straight water, lots of it. Then I applied a heavy, soupy layer of burnt sienna acrylic and let it soak in and dry overnight. The idea is to penetrate the surface of the hydrocal with color so it can't pull off easily.
 

 
 
I then applied white acrylic primer as a topcoat because it clung tenaciously in the grout lines. Using straight acrylic paint simply pulled off in sheets, which I'll remember if I ever want that look.
 

 
 
Then using cellophane tape, I pulled the primer off in controllable chunks by burnishing the tape down with my thumbnail wherever I wanted it removed.  As a bonus, the primer pulled at the lower layer of paint unevenly leaving the sienna darker in some spots than others.
 
Although it took some time to get to, the process is easy, and the result is passable.  Batteries not included and your mileage may vary.
 

 
 
Continuing on, I plowed out cavities for the I-beam headers.
 

 
Windows from Tichy Train Group were set into the opening.  The window is only 3/8” away from the back of the shadowbox, so I want obscure what will be seen through it.  To that end, I dirtied up a piece of acetate with PVA and powders for the glazing.  Also, on top of that is a blackened brass “security grate”.  The grating material is from Clover House.
 

 
 
The completed wall section shown backlit.
 

 
 
Three sections make up the back wall.  I bricked up the single window because I decided against any additional back lighting for the vehicle, the one double window will be enough.
 

 
 
The left wall gets a man door beneath the stairway.  A gap under the door allows space for the floorboards.
 

 
 
And the main open doorway occupies most of the right wall.
 

 
 
Thanks for taking a look and I wish everyone a healthy and happy new year.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

The Master at it again, I'm down for this....

Greetings Fellow Modelers,
 
I've begun work on a new shadowbox display and have decided to bore you with the details of its construction.  This will be the fourth shadowbox model that I've built, and because it's easier to show than to describe what these shadowbox displays are all about, here's a few photos of the three I've already made.
 
This was my first and simplest design.  The model insert itself is 4-7/8” wide (124mm) by 2-1/4” high (57mm) and 2-1/2” deep (64mm).
 

 
 
That was followed by this more complicated boat shop.  Same physical size as the first one.
 

 
 
And finally, a 1940 garage scene that I built last year.  It is the same height and depth as the other two, but half again as wide to accommodate the details I wanted it to include. 
 
A build log for the garage display can be found here.
 

 

 
This new display will differ from the others in the sense that its only purpose is to provide a display stage for interchangeable 1:87 truck models and other vehicles.  When I tire of looking at one vehicle, I can replace it with something else.
 
The “stage” will be the interior of an empty old building.  There will be no “things” in the building to visually compete with the subject.  What the vehicle is doing in the building is ambiguous and no real story is being offered.  Maybe it's just being stored there, away from the weather and out of the reach of vandals.  I don't know.  My goal is simply to provide an atmospheric backdrop for whatever vehicle is placed in there.
 
Initially, a 1938-1941 Mack FK truck tractor will be displayed.  I haven't built it yet, so that too will be part of this build log.  It's a resin kit from Ralph Ratcliffe Models and I found it on eBay quite a few years ago.  I bought it because it looked interesting, was out of production and very few people were bidding on it, so I ended up getting it cheap.  RR Models is once again producing these kits (at a steep price) and their castings are characteristically clean and crisp, especially considering the scale.  I've never built a resin kit before, so if it turns out badly, I'll have to build something else to take its place.  But eventually, something will be going in there, even if it's the toy out of a Happy Meal.
 
Here's a photo from their website.  The model is just under 3” long.  I'll be putting some wear on my build of the kit.
 

Ralph Ratcliffe Models
 
 
I've already begun work this project and in the next few posts, I'll bring things up to date.
 
Thanks for stopping in and taking a look.  Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

Post Twenty-eight
Completion and thoughts about the kit
This two-month mini project is complete.

9953
The barge kit provided me with a filler while I thought about a more substantial project. I have taken it further than I had originally intended, and it would have been nice to have had properly moulded crew figures of the standard of those produced by Vanguard.

9951
The kit is quite a challenge particularly if some of the simplifications are to be addressed. It is rightly classified at the ‘experienced’ level of modelling, as are all the small boat kits in the Vanguard range.

9944
Although I have enjoyed addressing the challenges presented, I would have preferred not to have had to make the hull modification which during the build is risky because of the delicate nature of the construction.
Having built an example of each boat type in the Vanguard range I experienced a small sense of disappointment in the design of this kit, not felt about the others.

9945
Still, the exercise has provided me with a heady mix of entertainment/frustration over the past two months, and overall, I am happier at the finish than I was at the start, which must count as some sort of result.

9942
These kits were perhaps not designed with standalone display in mind, there are larger scale boat models more suited for that purpose. Nevertheless, we are lucky to have Chris providing this boat range at 1:64 scale, the level of detail and realism compared with what went before is a major step forward.

9940
As far as I know no one else has attempted to produce a Barge kit at this scale, and for this Chris is to be commended.

9938
I have discussed the kit with Chris, and I understand that he is to re-visit the design in conjunction with his HMS Bristol kit development.
I hope that at least some of the modifications and changes I have made will be taken into consideration in any revisions.

9956
Tricky business slipping the cover over the base, only just enough room, I had visions of those delicate oars snapping!
 

9958
Always tricky taking photos of models thro' acrylic.

9961
The diminutive barge now joins the 1:24 Pinnace, and 1:48 Longboat atop Victory.
 
Thank you to those who have shown interest in this build, if nothing else I hope it has provided some ideas of what can be done at this scale.
 
Time to move on…
 
 
B.E.
04/01/2023
 

I love the look and feel of the model!
Very nice.
 
Frank

I finally completed all the decks with the gluing in of the poop deck, up next will the stern and modifying the rudder. As always thank you for stopping by and looking at my unorthodox build sequence. 
 
Michael D.

Thanks  OC.
 
The anchor cable :  part 2. or better, plan B
 
Looking in my Mary Rose books I found this.
Thinner cables are ok 👍

And ... Cotton rope of a reasonably correct diameter

This flexible thinner rope gives me the opportunity to do this way of tying

 
Testing. Still needs to be treated and wheatered.
Looks better to me.

 

I thought I would start a new thread, as the original was getting a little too big.
 
OK, for at least the next 5 years, I have my developments more or less already mapped out. The subjects cover a wide range of vessels from the 17th to early 19th Century.
 
For 2023, I have three confirmed. The first is Indy (of course). I may add as an optional extra cistern/chain pump housings. This has been my largest development to date, taking well over a year of full time work, and having Jim make the prototype and taking the manual photo pics and text. If I were to do this, then Indy would have been a 2 year development.
 
After Indy, I will have the American schooner Grecian (1812) almost ready, which I anticipate releasing in April/May. I have almost finished the mast and rig drawings, and profiles, so this may come together pretty quickly once Indy is released. 
From Wiki:
 
Thomas Kemp of Baltimore designed Grecian with several innovations. She was pierced for 20 guns, though she never carried that many, and her gunports were unique, designed perhaps to save weight. She had a long, curving stem, and a shallow, less convex bow. Grecian's first captain was James Phillips, and under him she had made one voyage to France. She received letter of marque No. 944 in December 1813, under Captain Knapp.
 
Not sure how much of that can be trusted, though, as she was not pierced for 20 guns, she has 18, with the fore-most being next to useless due to the distance between port and starboard (very sharp bow, so 7 per side being usable, in my opinion). It seems she had a mix of guns, being more standardised when in the British navy. What I have done is give enough guns for carronades, 6 and 4 pounders. I am sure the 4 pounders were used at the front, due to space issues, with the 6 pounders being nearer the middle and rear - so the modeller will have a choice of what to fit where.
 
After this, I will start on HMS Surprise, and this should be released this year, assuming all goes well.
 
And that's it for now....
 
ETA - My real love is frigates, as I have said before. If I had my way completely, the next five or six releases would be frigates from 32 guns upwards! But I cannot....

Happy New  Year  Everyone,    start  as  I mean  to go on  so it was  back  on the bench  -  I sorted an   answer out  to  my  dismounted  cuirassier  situation  -  make  another  one  Sword  waving   to  go  with  him,   I also  found  another  Three  French  54/55th  that  I could  make up  -  same  as  the  others  but it  adds  to  the  head count.
 
OC.

First, a happy 2023 for everyone.
 
The anchor cable.
I made this about 2 years ago.
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/14188-pelican-later-renamed-as-golden-hind-by-baker-scale-145-galleon-late-16th-century/?do=findComment&comment=787113

Lesson learned. Never treat a rope with diluted PVA glue before using it, as the rope will become stiff and unmanageable. But,too late to change now.
 
The anchors are in place and secured to the cable as best as possible.

The anchor David is on deck. The crew still has to store it in the hold (after the New Year's party 😉)

next flags (still experimenting for now)

Happy New Year    to  everyone,   hope  everyone has a  Peaceful  Healthy   2023.
 
Thank You All  for  all  the  input  and  likes   on my build  -   there  will  be  more  Next Year.
 
OC.

Well, the Corsair is called finished and I'd like to thank you for your input and your encouragement. I could have done more weathering and finishing in the end, but I got a bit worn out. Not because of the build or the painting, which was especially fun, but with the latest steps of the build, like clear coating, adding bits and pieces, ... tried my patience, as a lot went wrong, in a phase of the build, where I hated it most, after painting. 
I want to end the modeling year on a good term though and have to say, I'm more or less pleased with the result. The planned painting scheme including double layer chipping and masking for markings and stencils all went well. The build itself was a no brainer, with the Tamiya quality and was more a time consuming obstacle to get to the painting stage.
I have to raise my hat to the Tamiya engineers. This is maybe the best kit, ever made in plastic, being complex and full of innovative design ideas. The level of detail you get out of the box is impressive, except maybe for the rubber wheels.

The non painted pilot next to the Corsair is a symbol for the ambivalent ending this build took and that's why he's there. Maybe I paint him later, but first I have to clean my workbench and get some distance.
 
Cheers Rob
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Painted on the insignia and the numbers.  The Montex set of stencils worked really nicely.  I was a bit worried about the numbers but they came out great with minimal touchup needed.  Was hoping to get this one wrapped up before the end of the year, but don't want to rush the clear coating, weathering, etc.
 




Thanks for looking in, and happy new year!

Did this a long time ago. I think it was a 'J' class and a QE class Battleship.
acrylic on Mountboard about 16" X 11"ish.

The SOS is on sale until 12/31 regular price $1499.00 sale price if $849.00 a savings of $650.00 plus free shipping. I am soooo tempted. But I got way to many projects. 

Yes, but they should have been mounted above reach. Us too had something like that and they are still being sold.

Had one of them on the wall in the bathroom as a kid early 60s! ⚡💀 😅

We have all gone soft. Don’t you remember the electric fires with coiled wire behind a grid wide enough for kids to push their fingers through. In my day an electric shock a week was considered a good way of toughening kids up. All the electrical equipment in our house had mandatory rat chewed flexes repaired expertly with scotch tape or bandaids.😐

Thanks for the likes. I'll do this half of the keel, rudder then the other side then see how much I've got left for the gaps. Not bad so far, you will get gaps between plates as the angles change and offset of 50 percent changes. Some stick together or bond instantly. not the first time I have gone to work with a plate stuck to my shirt.

Found this while trawling through old files . I painted it in 1994 can't remember the details other than Acrylic , probably on Mount board.

The postman brought a nice variety of Woodland Scenic items. I have no idea how that Sea Fury crept into the order😎

So I have been experimenting on bits of scrap with the various grass types and finally got brave enough to start adding some to the base. I used diluted white glue to hold the grass to the base. Its weird stuff; I was expecting something like coloured sawdust but its almost a spongy consistency and not easy to add evenly and it balls up easily if you over manipulate it. I ended up shaking it one and tipping off what wasn't wanted outside the glued areas. It actually looks a lot better than I expected and I'm sure the technique is something I will learn to improve on.

I think its going to be important to resist the temptation to go crazy with this stuff and overdo the greenery. I have some weed clumps and stands of tall grass in mind but I want to keep it mainly a muddy little place.
Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments
Alan
 
 

As a diversion from the mud around Ypres I returned to 1/700 (edible) scale for a snowy landscape.
 

I hope everyone enjoys a wonderful Christmas
Alan

For some reason I seem to be mincing around with this build. Motivation is not very strong so only little bits get done between distractions.
I've painted the initial colours onto the base using craft acrylics.

After the paint was dry I air brushed a very thin black wash to merge the colours and deden some of the lighter shades


The vehicles were placed temporarily in their spots



I have ordered a large variety (but only a small part of their range) of Woodland Scenic products for grass, weeds and low bushes. The idea is somewhere behind the lines where there is still a bit of green around the mud.
The Whippet has had decals applied and both the FWD and the tank have been detailed a bit with rust and bare metal. They will now receive a coat of dry dirt and dust. The markings on the Whippet are far too fresh.
The Whippet in the picture has the canvas track guards fitted so I started making a set from card. They will get a base coat of buff and then be considerably dirtied and should look the part.



The fuel tins and baggage needs to be created and I must get serious about painting the figures.
Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments.
Alan