BLACK VIKING

... And one hour later, with sunset light :
 

 

Hi Mike from another member from Suffolk.  Welcome to MSW

Hi Mike from another member from Suffolk.  Welcome to MSW

....as I said to Lou yesterday.........it's just one of my habits I wish I could break     my love for older kits will be the demise of me yet!    I wracked my brain trying to find decals for this model.........the biggest hurdle is the scale.  the major problem in domesticating an older kit is just that.......early model kits produced,  were in such odd scales,  that it makes it nearly impossible to bash them in this way.   even in the after market dept.,  mods {unless scratch built} are hard to do.   I have some pictures from the 17th on the progress of this model.......painting for the most part.   after painting the underbelly gray, I got the feeling that I had made a mistake.........most of the captured planes had their under bellies painted yellow.  I did find out however,  that a few of them retained the gray........so that put me at ease for the time being.   I rode a little high on the fuselage,  but I think it won't matter too much.

the top and bottom of one wing was done........the wheel well is done in chromate green.

I still need to do the engine paint,  as well as the deicing trim and touch ups.   the pilots were molded to the seats......I would have cut them out, if not the fact that I want to show the plane in flight.  painted in chromate green too.

the stabilizer and rudders were done in the Army green and gray.  the malformation of one of the rudders doesn't show too badly,  now that it's disguised in paint  

 

I also painted the buckets for the turrets......I need to do the glass frames and guns......later to assemble them.   our discussion over the phone yesterday actually uncovered another aspect of the B 24,  that I had not seen previously........there was such a thing as an assembly plane.  this was the lead plane that the others would assemble behind and follow to the mission location.   the paint {camo} on these bombers is very reminiscent to planes of WWI
there were a few that were even more striking !
here is an idea of what one would look under another banner...............

we kinda joked about scale...........I'm sure I'm not alone,  but I believe that from one manufacturer to another,  there are subtle differences in their production of scale.  it may be slight......but it is noticeable.........and once the molds are tooled,  there is no going back.  just for a laugh,  we looked up anyone who made a model in 1:32 scale.  think of it.......the model would be HUGE!  well......we found one...........Hobby Boss!  I found these decals for them.......these are masks to paint the markings on {something I've never done before}.
Captured B-24 Liberators Luftwaffe Insignia Paint Mask Set 1/32
un....%#&# believable!   but wait!...........there's more!

Sides and Gunports:
 
I've finished attaching the side fake planking pieces and cutting the gunports. I spent so much time double and triple checking the height of the top piece to make the cannons hit the center of the gunport and even with all that when I put the cannon in place it's a bit too low. I did my measurements with the gunport cut and the height of the center of the cannon that I measured was right at the center of the gunport but when you set it in place it's a bit different. It's not so much that I won't be able to make some minor adjustments on the cannons and get it correct but it's weird to have the measurement and actual cannon not exactly line up. I think it's due to the angle of the cannon so every bit of the barrel is lower than the tip and when it sticks through then the lower part is what you see at the port. Lesson learned I hope.
 
After getting all the side pieces on I needed to cut all the gunports, the only real challenging part was with the ones that had the covering for the inside decks that was visible. Cutting the port without damaging the inner planking was tricky, I covered the inside planking with 4 layers of painters tape to try and keep splintering to a minimum and cut slowly and carefully on those and for the most part was successful but a couple spots still splintered and I'll need to do some minor repairs to that planking.
 
I decided early on that I wasn't going to paint the hull so instead of the painted black strip below the bottom row of gunports I stained the walnut planking dark to simulate that. I also stained the strips between the side pieces the same dark walnut stain so it's has three rows of the dark wood. I'll be staining the lower planks a lighter color. I still have  the wales to put in place on the dark strips and I'll probably stain that the same color.
 
It's starting to come together and I'll finish the hull planking next so I can get the ship on the cradle for stability and then work on the upper areas.
 
 

Welcome aboard all!
 
I do plan on carving the decorations again. With the larger scale I am hopeful that I can get better results. I also plan on using a mixture of mediums to carve from. I have been getting nice results from polystyrene on Royal Louis as it is more forgiving than wood. I will likely use wood though for the large carvings such as the figure head as the larger surface is easier to handle and work with. I am thinking about giving modeling clay a try on this one as well. After seeing Doris' masterpieces and watching her videos of how she made many of her decorations, I feel that may be a good route to try. I was always better at carving in clay than wood and am always in favor of using the materials that work best for the modeler.
 
I have a ways to go and time to think on that however. I'm working steadily through the frame modifications and will begin fairing the hull next. This is what I call the "dirty work" of ship building as it flings saw dust everywhere, but once it is done and the hull is ready for planking, I intend to go back to Royal Louis for a while to continue working on her. She is about ready for another series of decorations to be carved and added on the bow and deck railings.

Chapter 7 laser cut parts are now available.  Please remember that if you are far from needing these parts, please refrain from buying them.  I will always have more made when these are gone.  Your fellow Winnie group builders that are up to this chapter in the process will thank you.  They have been eagerly awaiting its release.  As soon as I return which is on Wednesday,  I will start making the cherry version of chapter 7.  
 
Currently having fun somewhere in Virginia......either on a mountain or under it.....next stop Alexandria.
 

 
Chuck

The keel had a slight bow in it - hence the balsa blocks between the bulkheads to straighten it up. Thanks to other Supply builders logs for this idea.
 
The first planking was a real problem. The limewood broke at the slightest bend so I went online and bought a planking tool but couldn't get on with it and threw it into the bottom of the toolbox. Applying a hot iron was little better. I found a piece of plastic plumbing pipe a bit longer than the planks, stopped up one end and stood it up in a bucket of pebbles, poured in near boiling water and capped it with a mineral water cap. After a few minutes in the hot water the planks bent much easier provided I bent them slowly didn't try to rush it. The only problem I found with this was that the planks shrunk a bit when they dried out.
 
Richard
 

Post Forty-0ne
 
Acanthus whittling
 
I have previously had a dabble at this which ended in a broken strip, and I put the process into abeyance whilst I got on with other stuff.
Round two
Having carefully attached the blanks to backing boards this time using a Pritt stick I hope for better results.

2545(2)
I start by marking the stop cut lines and attend to these first.
Micro chisels are used, and the direction of the grain is carefully noted.

2546(2)
It is then a case of carefully paring a round onto the detail using a scalpel, fine sandpaper, and the edge of the chisel where required.

2542(2)
I keep a copy of the Chuck’s examples in front of me as a reference.

2549(2)
To ensure uniformity I prepared all three each side before I attempt to remove them from the backing.

2553

2552(2)

2551
Nearly ready for release, a little more smoothing and polishing.

Portside decoration
The same procedure for the Port side, but to ease interpretation of the carving lines I flipped the photo of the finished work provided by Chuck.

2611
As I write this post the first of the Acanthus carvings has been immersed in Isopropanol for some thirty hours and is still stubbornly hanging on in part to its backing.
 
At this rate with another five to go I think I’ll probably lose the will to live!
 
B.E.
 
26/06/21
 

Post Forty
 
The Royal Watermen
Back from a break in Dorset and not yet ready to tackle the hull carving I decided to play around with a Waterman model.
 
The doner piece is a 1:24 scale figure of an American Vietnam era soldier by Dean’s Marine.
0920
I used the same (modified) figure to represent a rower for my 1:24 scale Pinnace build.
This time the dress would be different and I wanted to model the figure holding the oars in the vertical position.

2472
Early stage modification; the first action is to remove unwanted clothing and turn trousers into knee breeches.
The figure is made of hard plastic and the Dremel was necessary to achieve this.

2479
The arms with this model are separate so it was not too problematic to position them correctly.
It is then down to using modelling paste to create the uniform of the Royal Company of Watermen.
 
A little research revealed that The Company of Watermen dates back to the 16thc and details of the uniform are available.
It is from the ranks of this company that the Royal Watermen were chosen.

A skirted scarlet tunic, coupled with breeches, and a navy/black cap.
 
A prototype Royal Waterman is completed.

2533(2)
 

2521
I have reduced the Queen Ann monogram from the Barge kit to provide the plastrum on the back of the tunic.
 

2528
With the proper oars the arm/hand positions may need to be adjusted.
 

2526
I’m far from satisfied with the result but it does give me an idea of what is involved.

2519
Despite the antiquity of the uniform style, I’m not sure it looks right on the model, but at least he sits ok on the thwart.
 
Time to stop messing about with this and get back to completing the model.
 
B.E.
21/06/2021
 
 
 
 

WOW, this is turning out beautifully. The carvings are exceptional

From build booket to references on large folding sheets.
 

Well, that's given me a lesson in German - I'd been thinking gestalt meant "the whole" of something (like holistic).
 
But of course, "whole" is ganze, isn't it? (as in the famous Richard Tauber song "Dein ist mein ganzen Herz" (Yours is my whole heart) or the even more famous "Diesem Kuss der ganzen Welt" (This kiss to the whole world) from Beethoven's 9th Symphony.
 
Druxey, this way of doing the robands is much easier and quicker than doing it properly, and I have the excuse that I did it that way before. Here you can see it from the back. The "joining thread isn't really all that obvious unless you look at it close up.
 

 
 

 
Steven

Excellent work on the press.    It looks like the real beast.

Thanks to all for stopping by and for the "likes".
 
 
 
Seems a bit scary to me also Mark.  Check this photo out.  This seems like a false sense of security to me.  The rear wheel doesn't even appear to be chocked to keep it from rolling backwards (or forwards.)  I wouldn't want to be under that thing if the chainfall let go and the weight shifted.  I wonder if this little house of cards arrangement has ever been tested?     
 

 
 
It works pretty well.  The most difficult part is keeping the drill straight and true when going through the rails. Thanks for the comment O.C.
 
 
I believe you're right Keith.  That's a great understanding of the times and one that I never stopped to consider.  All the years I worked in manufacturing the company always supplied uniforms and laundry service.  So yes, what would you do with oil soaked clothes on a modest salary?  Leave them hung over the fence at night? 
 
 
Yes those jacks would add some nice atmosphere and I particularly like the high lift bumper jack.  I don't know of anyone who casts or molds anything like them at this scale, so I'm going to try and scratch some.  Emphasis on try as the high lift would be right at 1/2" tall.  Thanks for the suggestion and photos Egilman.
 
 
Everyone would run for cover when OSHA would step out onto our manufacturing floor.  But when you see the dangerous work places of the "good old days", OSHA starts looking pretty good.  Thanks for the comment and nice words Ken.
 
 
Hello Allen, thanks for looking in.  I agree, especially the oil can as it would be easily identifiable - but crazy small.  I may just give it a try.
 
 
Some Pit Work

Everyday life choirs and activities has kept me from the workbench and little has gotten done.  So this update will be a short one.
 
I added back some electrical piping along the back wall that was pulled off to accommodate the pit installation.  Instead of running the conduit to the right as it was originally, it now runs to the left and up the corner and covers a nasty little gap where the two walls meet.
 
I then replaced some of the “angle iron” around the perimeter of the pit because it was out of square.  Looking at the photo below I can see the angle needs some attention as it doesn't look like iron (too silvery.)
  
Steps are added leading down into the pit.  They are 2' wide with a 8” rise and 10” run (like you really wanted to know that) and are made of stacked basswood pieces.  The hand rail is .022” brass which scales to just under 2” diameter.
 
The pit and steps were dirtied up with some blackish pigment powders and a wash of India ink mixed with water.  The wash brought forward the texture of the pit walls (which I now realize I failed to mention in the last post.)  The texture is straight white PVA dabbed on with a cosmetic sponge.  At first the glue keeps leveling itself out, but as it dries it starts to hold peaks.
 

 
 
I also added some oil stains to the lower center pit and a step down to it.
 


Arbor Press  
 
A break from working on the pit.
 
In the last post I showed a photo of four men in greasy coveralls.  Below is a crop of that photo and just behind the gentleman in the center is a mechanical arbor press.  It appears to be a 20 ton Weaver Hi-Speed Press or one very similar.
 

 
 
The Weaver 28 and 60 ton models have an extra leverage arm high up that the press shown above does not.
 

 
 
These presses had three levels of power vs speed.  The hand wheel could be turned for gentle precise work with little power.  The upper lever was a rack/pinion sort of affair that offered more speed and considerable power.  If that wasn't enough you could choose the nuclear option by using the lever on the left which provides the greatest force.  The photo below is a 20 ton press so it doesn't have the upper lever, but it's a good look at its simplicity and how it works.  Note that the arm (with the Weaver branding) has a choice of pivot points at its left end – three of them, where you can select how much leverage is required.  There are three holes in the pivot plate and the arm is currently occupying the center hole so the the other two holes are not visible.     
 

 
 
I made one of these Weaver presses for the dio, but much of the mechanical detail is not there - just too small.  Anyway, I began with a drawing based on photo scaling.

 
I gathered up some stuff.  The wheel is an injection molded HO scale boxcar brake wheel.  I pulled the styrene rod and tubing over heat to get the right diameters needed.  The brown sprue is nut/bolt heads.
     

 
 
Cut, glue and drill.
 

 
 
Enamel paint and powders.
 

 
The left side power mechanism is just two pieces of bent wire inserted into a styrene bit.  The angle iron that bolts to the floor is out of scale for sure but. . .
 
 
Now back to the pit.  Thanks for looking.
 
Gary
  
   

Sorry for the delay in updates. I was working on getting the sails installed and rigged but then had to take break when the weather got really hot here for a few days, then my son got married weekend before last and we had guests staying with us last week. Now I am back at it with the lower sails and fore topsail all rigged and the main topsail in progress.
 

To see what I am working with, I dry fit the bulkheads and decks together and this was the result. I'm going to have a lot to do. I have been working on this for a week now and I will show the modifications that I started on the next post. 

Hi all sorry I haven't posted for a while but life has certainly got in the way.  But anyway back to the build. 
The guns have been fitted on the gundeck and the sides. 
I have made some lanterns and some weird sticky up things on the stern and fitted some wooden teeth things on the beakhead. 
Next job making the main mast .
Stay safe all.
Martyn 
 

Hi all sorry I haven't posted for a while but life has certainly got in the way.  But anyway back to the build. 
The guns have been fitted on the gundeck and the sides. 
I have made some lanterns and some weird sticky up things on the stern and fitted some wooden teeth things on the beakhead. 
Next job making the main mast .
Stay safe all.
Martyn 
 

Hi all sorry I haven't posted for a while but life has certainly got in the way.  But anyway back to the build. 
The guns have been fitted on the gundeck and the sides. 
I have made some lanterns and some weird sticky up things on the stern and fitted some wooden teeth things on the beakhead. 
Next job making the main mast .
Stay safe all.
Martyn 
 

Hi all sorry I haven't posted for a while but life has certainly got in the way.  But anyway back to the build. 
The guns have been fitted on the gundeck and the sides. 
I have made some lanterns and some weird sticky up things on the stern and fitted some wooden teeth things on the beakhead. 
Next job making the main mast .
Stay safe all.
Martyn 
 

I made a start this afternoon after painting the Penelope. I assembled the basic hull parts and then worked the first PE; the heat shield for the exhaust. Nice PE to work with and  it all went together nicely.
 

 
There are some nice suspension details to add to the hull sides which will be mostly hidden. The PE engine intakes were added and I made up the turret apart from the PE. There are some nice PE grab handles to add. And look at those neat spanners in the fret.

I plan to add the PE and then paint the hull and turret, painting the wheels and track separately. It looks like the early Aust F tanks came in any colour you liked as long as it was dark grey so that will be a bit of a rest after the Penelope camouflage scheme
This has been so much fun so far.  Everything is so nicely detailed and it all fits so well.
 
 
Thanks for support and likes
 
Alan
 
 
 

And here is the finished article.
 
OC.

Bonnets "stitched on". Actually I cheated - I glued the bonnets to the bottoms of the courses with a bit of overlap before I started stitching - I couldn't see any way otherwise that I could hold everything together as I stitched - I'm not all that good at sewing. And that's really not the way it was done back in the day, though it looks enough like it for the job at hand.
 
Here is the main course with the bonnet attached and the sewing partly done, seen from behind. (The funny thing is the stitching seen from in front pretty much vanishes into the pattern painted on the sail. Almost feels like "All that work, and nothing to show for it").
 

 
Here are the two sails with bonnets seen from the front
 

 
 
And from behind. You can see the join between the two lots of stitching on the main course, where I ran out of thread and had to start again with a new thread. I took the opportunity to start from the other end (so the end of the glued join between the course and the bonnet didn't come adrift just as I was getting to the end of the stitching).
 

 
And here's a closer view of the stitching on the main course, seen from the front. I'm pretty happy with the consistency of the stitching - not perfect, but I think this is as good as I'm likely to be capable of.
 

 
As a first attempt the forecourse was not too bad, but as I got better with the main course I'm considering re-doing it. The question is whether there's any point doing so. Are the inequalities in the stitching bad enough to warrant re-doing it, considering the back of the sail really won't be visible when the model is on display?
 
Fortunately, those are the only two bonnets.
 
Steven