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vaddoc

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  1. Thank you Ian and Michael, much appreciated. Michael, the wood is swiss pear with a coat of Tung oil.
  2. How do you keep the brass shiny? doesn't it get discoloured with heating?
  3. Some more work got done and I am a little closer to finishing. I made some nice bow chocks And I glued all the fittings I have made so far to the boat. I am still waiting for threads to make more ropes and still have no sail fabric so I used plain thread to simulate the running rigging. I also made fittings for the centreboard ropes and the downhaul for the main mast boom I also made an axe which needs gluing and blackening I also decided to address a critical issue. I had to make a rum barrel! There will be no shortage of grog on my boat! Barrel making generated intense work over three days. I used some leftover wood from a cheap curtain rail and the first attempt was rather terrible. I tried again this time doing things properly. I sanded the core wood, divided the circumference into sections, sanded and glued every other plank and carefully prepared all of the remaining planks to fit their spaces using walnut this time instead of cheap birch. I cut semi-circular pieces of copper sheet to create the hoops and soldered and epoxied everything in place. Despite all this, the new barrel does not look much better than the previous one! The new one is on the left. Anyway, I am waiting for some LOS to blacken the copper.
  4. Great work Mehmet, you can see boats like this in the Greek islands. I enjoy walking in the harbours and occasionally you come across an old boat, dirty and run down which stands out amongst the other better maintained boats. Some have been sitting idle for years or the owner has aged and is equally run down to really care. But to be honest your boat would be the worst I ve seen! Still, amazing work. Makes you want to take it on as a restoration project!
  5. The boat is coming along fine Patrick, it is a very impressive yacht. Superb work, I think it is very difficult to get this right and make all this massive superstructure look elegant. I must say I had not appreciated from the drawings how lovely it would look. On a different note, were the photos taken during actual work? After 20 minutes my workbench looks like having been hit by a hurricane.
  6. Mary Christmas Patrick, happiness and prosperity in a stone-free 2016!
  7. Little progress made, partly due to my daughters tonsillitis and partly due to many silly mistakes. The new ropes are a joy to work with. I am still waiting for a variety of threads as I need various rope sizes but at least I could finish the standing rigging. Splicing is very satisfying now. I also replaced the ropes in all the blocks and used Tang oil. They look now much nicer The new shrouds compared to the old ones are way better And of course the standing rigging has to come down once more as the forestay is in the wrong place, it should have been tied to the upper hole. All done! I must admit there is quite a bit of tension in that forestay! The deadeyes look good The forestay is served throughout its length as the jib rings will run along it I also made a few pulley blocks, for the jib sheet and the stern traveler I then took a break from boat building and made a rifle. After all this is an exploration ketch so one needs to be prepared. Oiled walnut stock, stainless barrel, even glass bedding (I used epoxy to glue the barrel)! The figure is roughly 1:12 scale. In the background the blocks for the rope traveller can be seen.
  8. Could be a replacement for some epoxy applications but only when light can get through so I think very limited usefulness for modelling. Looks very expensive also.
  9. Dear all thank you for the comments and likes. Druxey and Michael, indeed that line was intended to be left hand as it was just a test line. However only now, after spending a couple of days rope walking I realise the difference. A left hand layed strand is stiff and rigid but the right hand rope is much more pliable. Mark, I think you mean that the forestay should not get tensioned too much. I googled "forestay tensioning" and it appears to be a true art obscure to the majority of sailors. It also seems that most people go for "reasonably tight" to get round this. The next photo is a close up of the forestay tackle, I copied this of actual rigging set ups I found on the net. I think that with a pair of wooden hearts it will be difficult to put a lot of tension, as a turnbuckle would. I experimented a lot and I think I have standardised my rope making technique. I used the length of my garage and was able to produce 2.5 m long strands. The problem is that even using the finest 100 weight thread, it produces a rather substantial rope. It is likely that for some applications were a thin rope is needed a strand may need to be used. In the next photo, the upper row are strands and the bottom one ropes. I used almost every thread I had experimenting. I also tried to make a cored rope but I just can't see how this could be done with this setting. The admiral was rather impressed and I order some silk thread to make some nice cords for her necklaces and pedants!
  10. The search for the sail material was put on hold as other projects kept me busy. My homemade disk sander died as the (very) old drill gave up the ghost. I tried to fix it but finally I ordered a new very cheap drill to take its place. I also realised that I need lots of cleats so I made some. Again the internet provided all necessary info. The next photo shows the pattern I made above and a cleat still needing some sanding below I temporarily fitted everything on the boat to see how things would work and a lot of problems became immediately apparent. The main mast boom is too long and catches the mizzen shrouds, the intended spots for the pinrails are wrong as the lines are in the way of the boom etc. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo at the time but the next pic shows most of the mock rigging still in place. I was however very unhappy with the ropes. For the last few days I have been trying to make a ropewalk, mostly motivated by the wonderful ropes Michael made for his Bristol Cutter. I used mostly scrap material so the end result looks horrible but I must say, works brilliantly! I made just a length of rope but it came out beautiful, much better than the (expensive) shop rope. The admiral was very impressed! My rope is on the left and the shop one on the right and a short video of the machine So now I have lots of rope to make which will take some time. Also, all the shrouds etc need to be redone, shame really as many hours of work goes to waste.
  11. That's an excellent suggestion Patrick, I will need some better quality pictures though than my usual terrible phone ones! Bob, that's really helpful. I will visit a couple of charity shops this weekend. I did ask the admiral to have a look at her dresses but sadly she would not cooperate. Regards Vaddoc
  12. Thank you Bob, it's good to know that this is how it is supposed to look like! Patrick, I think you are right, one can choose how to arrange the rigging as long as it works. So lets just have fun! I finished all the spars and fitted the brass components. For the parrel lines I used good quality toothpicks. I also made some belaying pins. It was very easy to make using dowel secured in a drill and sanded against the rotating disk sander. The rest was done with hand file. I varnished the spars with matt enamel varnish to provide some protection. I also added some brass work on the rudder and then varnished the whole thing but this did not go very well. The rudder has caused me much frustration, it proved much more difficult than I though, needed a ton of work and still is not completely ready. Finally, I made some more blocks and the pin rail which will be attached on the edge of the fore deck to serve the main mast, where I also intend to install a downhaul for the boom. It is not really needed but then again, why not? I intend to make the sails but I have no idea what fabric to use. I would like something resembling a traditional sail but not too thick considering the 1:12 scale. This is going to be a difficult one.
  13. Despite actually working for many hours, I made only modest progress. I am really struggling with the rigging as I have no idea of how such a boat would be rigged and equipped. I spent a lot of time on the net and also got a lot of help reading the blog of a couple who have been building a sailboat for the last 6 years (a Northsea 29). Still, there are a lot of grey or totally black areas! I made a pattern of the sails. This boat seems to carry a lot of sail, I wonder how fast she would actually be. The way I am thinking of rigging the boat, I will need a lot of rope loops. Splicing does work but is very time consuming. I also discarded all the ropes from the blocks I had made and re-did them properly. It was only after many hours of work on the blocks I realised they were completely the wrong scale. They looked huge on the boat! I tried a few sizes and now they look much better. I also used pear instead of lime wood. I went for the middle size The wrong scale is obvious I also made the spars. Especially the gaffs needed a bit of 3D thinking as they were carved out of solid blocks of wood The rudder is almost finished, needs some more brass work, varnish and the blade to be permanently attached with the ropes that will extend and raise it Although there are lots to be done, I fitted whatever I have prepared to get a feel of the rigging. That main mast top looks a busy place! I think making some form of rope walk is a must, I would like a better rope than the ones I got from the model shops.
  14. Dear Patrick, this is really an amazing project oozing creativity. Really really nice. Is the paint enamel applied with brush?
  15. I managed to do a bit more work so time for another update. Patrick and Michael thank you for your comments, especially as you are so busy with your wonderful models. I made more hoops, my little method is very fast and works well. I also fitted the lower dead eyes for the shrouds I did a lot of work on the rudder, I new it would be a complex job but I really had no idea. Fitting the hinges was very fiddly. It did not came out as good as I would want but good enough. It still needs a lot of work, though! Interestingly, the epoxy on the middle hinge refused to cure, I suspect there was still some flux from soldering that reacted with the epoxy. I managed to glue it in the end but there is some more work that needs to be done at the lower edge of the hinge to fix things I also made the oar locks I have spent a lot of time searching for an accurate way of attaching the forestay to the stem avoiding a turnbuckle. I finally went for a pair of hearts which indeed is a traditional way of tensioning the forestay. I also made an eye pin for the stem Hopefully I ll be able to do some more work this week and at least finish the rudder, the standing rigging, and maybe do some work on the spars
  16. Dear all, things are going well so I think another quick update is in order. I have all the components for my rope serving machine and will put it together when time will permit but in the meantime I discovered that it is not really needed, at least not for the very large scale rope I am using. In any case, the first attempt in serving and splicing rope was entirely successful. I also think it does not look too bad although I am not sure if the scale is correct. This is how it will look in the end I also started making some hoops for the mast. The only suitable strips I had were walnut, I don't think the colour matches the boat very well but with a coat of tung oil it might work. I rolled a wide strip around a dowel and then I glued another strip on top to form a tubular laminate. Then I sawed a slice off and a very nice hoop came out. I sanded it smooth and then reduced its width. Still, the previous mahogany version I think looks better I also am working on the rudder, still needs some more coats of paint and varnish but I think soon it will be time to mount the hinges.
  17. I think it is time for an update although small actual progress has been achieved. The main thing is that I changed my mind regarding the rigging. I finished painting the rub rails, they came out fine. I also made a new tiler as I was not happy with the first attempt. I think it looks better. I have been thinking about the rigging for a long time and I realised I was not happy with the arrangement I had decided on. I want a more traditional look and to avoid the use of all modern gear like turnbuckles, shackles, wire ropes etc. I also want a accurate representation of the actual rigging. I spent a lot of time researching and I now have a very clear idea of how it will be arranged. The drawing shows the rigging of the main mast: The main mast will have one pair of shrouds and a pin rail probably attached to the small deck. The mizzen will have two pair of shrouds and a pin rail attached to the shrouds. This means served ropes and deadeyes. So here it goes. I started making the dead eyes which was actually easier than I thought. Lots of little faces watching me! Cutting strips of brass with the knife was easy. Tung oil deepens the colour nicely And then all came together, soldered and sanded to shape. An easy job although I got carried away and made more than I actually needed. The dead eyes will be secured to the boat with brass fittings. There will be need for splicing rope and of course serving. I tried serving by hand and immediately I gave up, this really needs a machine. I tried making a serving jig with whatever I had int he garage but gave up. I will try again though, I think I can make it work. Back to the boat, i prepared and glued in place the brass strip on the false stem which needed a rather complex clamping system. I have left the masking tape on to protect the shine of the brass. I will add later on an eye bolt for the jib. Next to paint the rudder and attach the tiler and brass fittings and of course to have another try in making a serving jig.
  18. Progress is slow but there is definite progress. The soldering equipment arrived and I started experimenting. I will never be able to bent the metal to my will like Michael does but I am happy to report I can now solder two pieces together! These are photos of my first ever attempt in soldering. I found two suitable strips in my inventory and glued the rub rails in place which was again a rather fiddly job. I then started work on the mast fittings for the shrouds. The first attempt was not really very nice... The second time though I think it came out ok. I made fittings for both masts and put a coat of rennaissance wax to protect the shine. I also did more work on the rudder. It still needs painting though. The small hole above the one for the blade axel is for the rope that extends the blade. I then decided to have a go at the hinges. I think they look ok! I also finished painting the rub rails. Much still left to do!
  19. Dear Patrick, I am very happy that all went well with your operation, hopefully you ll get over this incident very soon. As for the boat, this is such a nice and unusual project! Take care of yourself, I guess we ll now be seeing bottles of water instead of fruit in the background...
  20. Dear all, thank you for the comments and likes. Life commitments again allowed very little work on the boat. I spent a good deal of time studying though and now I have in mind a rough outline of the rigging. I also decided I will make all metal work from scratch, read a bit about soldering and ordered some equipment and metals. There are just a few things that need to be made, the hinges, oarlocks, anchors and spar fittings but it should be a good start to metalwork. The rudder is pretty much ready, needs final assembly, hinges and painting. I also would like to install ropes to lower and raise the rudder blade. It looks more elegant this way! Also, I sanded the edges of the blade. I still have not decided on the tiler though. I also worked on the rub rails and here I hit a snug. The two pear wood strips I had saved are not wide enough. I used some lime strips just to have an idea of the fitting, really you can never have enough clamps!
  21. Congratulations Patrick! I count 2 sail boats, 1 Submarine and a tender, all wonderfully made. Symphony has reached home but really it was a great journey!
  22. I just stole a few moments to check your progress Patrick, glad I did, the new photos are priceless. Fantastic work!
  23. Indeed Patrick, the end is I think in sight. No really sure what the next boat will be, certainly scratch built though. Maybe a nice small fast schooner, the type a smuggler would use but this might be too big a bite. It would also be a 4 year project at least... The gunwales proved to be a mountain to climb and somehow I messed things up. I prepared all the parts and only the simple task of gluing was left and I managed to not align the segments properly. Epoxy is very unforgiving and I could not fix a very small gap at the bow. A shame really as everything was cut just right. Next the rub rails and then the big job of making the rudder
  24. Dear Patrick and Michael thank you for your comments and continuing support. Indeed the problems have been sorted, the computer is running fine and the new 30 min epoxy (this Zpoxy brand) is absolutely brilliant. I fitted the breasthook, the transom brackets and the inner clamp. A small mistake will be fixed invisible later on, I did not have another strip to make again the part as somehow I managed to use both back up strips Next the small blocks were installed between the two clamps to strengthen the structure. This took quite a bit of work as each block was unique to fit each space Next it was time to fit the gunwales which actually has been so far an easy job. The pattern was easily cut with masking tape and a sharp razor. Lots of sanding is needed and then the rub rail to be fitted and painted but it already looks nice! I started thinking about the oars and also the rudder which will certainly will be a big job. The mast fittings are giving me trouble and more research is needed. Still lots of work left!
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