vaddoc

Search for the thread "tree nails in bulk", it might suit your needs

Mike I have sizes 5, 8 and 12. Perle 12 makes a fine 0.6-0.7 mm rope, 0.8-0,9 mm with the 8 and 1.2 mm with the 12. This thread is more supple than the cordonnet. The finest rope I have produced is 0.5 mm left hand twist with 100 weight, it is quite rigid though.

The DMC Cordonnet is right hand twist and the Perle left hand. There is a light twist in silk but negligible. It is very strong but very slippery too, really difficult to work with. Also the rope it produces is very stiff. Synthetics and linen might be the better option. Cotton rope really stretches a lot.

Mike I use DMC threads for my ropes. Most are right hand twist so either you will end up with somewhat stiff left hand twist or with right hand one made of several yarns and strands but it will be thick (and beautiful) However, look for DMC perle, this is LEFT hand twist and come in various sizes and colours so with one pass through a ropewalk you can make RIGHT hand twist rope which can be very fine. DMC is expensive though! I experimented with silk thread which does not really have a twist and is very strong and fine but it is too difficult and too expensive to work with. One other thing to consider is that cotton rope if set with some tension on the model it tends to loosen over time. I will try linen thread at some point. Regards Vaddoc

Looking good Patrick! But where's the remote for the TV?

Thank you all, much appreciated! Michael, I would really like to go for a fully framed 2 mast schooner but I think this is too big of a bite for now. So I have decided on a much smaller project that will give me the chance of practicing planking, framing, rabbet cutting etc. Of course there will be a log!

Dear all This is the last photos to be posted as the project is finally competed. The photo quality should be much better as I used the Admiral's new phone. I managed to fully blacken the barrels containing the essential supplies for any yachting expedition. Although the metal is copper so supposedly easy to blacken, there were persistent areas that did not. In the end I took the Dremel to the entire metal surface to get it to blacken. For the future though I will be using thinned black gesso and then dip the parts in Pledge as I found this produces very good results with minimal hassle. I also fitted the reefing lines and made a cradle. Nothing too fancy though, I used leftover wood and a cheap cutting board from Tesco. The joinery was a bid tricky but came out fine, I still need to finish the cradle and add the name to it. Butterfly Explorer! I thought though that it would look better with the sails furled. This was a 21 month journey but it was great fun and I learned a lot. A big thank you for your support and suggestions throughout the built and of course to Tad for releasing such a nice design. Regards Vaddoc

With the model in your hand, its small size comes into perspective, looking at the full interior in the last close up photos I had forgotten just how small. Also, the wooden decks really bring the model into life and hide the bulk of the structure. Looking very good Patrick!

Thank you all, considering it is my second model I am happy with the result. I realised though that I forgot the reefing lines so one more loose end to tie. Patrick, houses in Britain are really small so no chance for a glass case! Bob, I used Aleene's glue which I think is just ordinary PVA glue which shrinks and dries virtually invisible. The cloth is synthetic but still it glued fine.

Dear all It is getting very difficult to find time to work on the boat but still I got a few more things done. I think the end is very near. First I made quite a lot of rope of different sizes. I thought I had enough but it is amazing how much rope even a small boat like this needs, in the end I had to set everything up again and make more. Also, the standing rigging has come loose, the cotton threads in the ropes have stretched but I decided not to tighten it. The search for sail material ended quite easily, I found in a box 3 feet away from my work bench some cloth I had bought a couple of years ago and forgot all about it. I made new sail templates and then spent days trying different ways of making the sails. All failed and I just glued rope to the cloth and cut the sails. It worked ok but I am sure there are better ways of making sails. I then added the running rigging and cheated a bit as I used beads to secure the rope ends. This was much quicker and cleaner than making knots. I also finished the rudder and found a realistic solution for the lanyards. The rudder actually works very well and there is good leverage to extend and lift the blade. The boat is too big for the phone camera to easily cover One more new skill I need to master is brass/coper blackening. I thought I had prepared the metal well but obviously this was not the case. The axe came out fine though. I was surprised that the solder did not blacken. All metal was coper and I used gel LoS. I would like to make a few more random items to put in and definitely have another go at blackening the barrels. However, the boat is almost complete and definitely needs some short of a stand.

Patrick, what can I say, its always a joy to read your updates but this is just lovely. There is craft, there is art and there is also style!

I installed a motor to my ropewalk which made the process much faster and simpler. It is still dead ugly but I can produce 2.5 m of rope in minutes. I tried using silk thread but it brakes, a much thicker thread would be needed or maybe multiple threads per station

Nicely spotted Frankie! The deadeyes were supposed to rotate freely in the brass ring but when I applied the Renaissance wax to protect the brass shine they locked in place! I tried to rotate the ones that are upside down but couldn't. Now that everything is soldered and epoxied, fixing this is a major job. Some times better is the enemy of good...

Love those cupboards and the bench Patrick, very nice work, can't wait to see the engine room completed!

Lovely details, so much affection radiating from your boat!

Dear all I had very little time to work on the boat but I managed to complete the oars. This actually has been a problem I was considering for a very long time and only recently I came up with a solution. As I need six oars, they have to be identical so I had to use a standardised and reproducible method of construction. The curved oars I made initially are totally inappropriate for this boat, as only Hercules could row for more than 10 min without reaching for the rum barrel. I really did not want to order new wood so I had to use my inventory of pear wood left overs. Also, the correct calculated length just looked too long and I shortened it a bit. So here it goes: First, I designed the oar in 2D, made several copies and glued on a 2 mm pear sheet. The oar will initially be 6x6 mm wide tapering towards the blade. All were cut as close to the line as possible to minimise the considerable amount of sanding Sanding completed and two more pieces added on each side. Each piece will be a laminate of two strips 6x1 mm but not to the handle where only one 1mm strip is needed on each side. These pieces will be sanded to shape when glued to the main shaft but the distal end needs to be shaped beforehand as it will be inaccessible later on Then all get laminated together. I often use for such purposes two MDF pieces from failed attempts at making my disk sander. The pieces are kept flat and compressed. All glued ready for sanding. They look identical as well. Sanding to shape was done carefully with the disc sander. One of the oars was sanded excessively and got ruined but I did had a spare one. Other than that it worked beautifully. Masking tape was applied over the area that will not be sanded round. The handle was sanded square with needle files. The handle was covered with masking tape and secured on a drill. 80 grit sand paper takes out a lot of wood easily. The oars were sanded to 400 grit. The handles were sanded round and then the blade edges. A coat of tung oil finishes the job. All oars are identical and there was minimal wastage of wood. I also worked on the rigging and spend a lot of time experimenting with rope making. I have not yet found sail cloth but I rigged the throat and peak halyards, the boom downhaul, the main sheet and the centreboard ropes. I still need to find a way for the ropes to lay nicely. To satisfy all pure modelling hearts please note the rope used has right hand twist. DMC has threads with a left hand twist so quite small diameter right hand strands can be produced. Pricey but very nice stuff.

This is fantastic work Mehmet, a jewel of a model!

Thank you Ian and Michael, much appreciated. Michael, the wood is swiss pear with a coat of Tung oil.

How do you keep the brass shiny? doesn't it get discoloured with heating?

Some more work got done and I am a little closer to finishing. I made some nice bow chocks And I glued all the fittings I have made so far to the boat. I am still waiting for threads to make more ropes and still have no sail fabric so I used plain thread to simulate the running rigging. I also made fittings for the centreboard ropes and the downhaul for the main mast boom I also made an axe which needs gluing and blackening I also decided to address a critical issue. I had to make a rum barrel! There will be no shortage of grog on my boat! Barrel making generated intense work over three days. I used some leftover wood from a cheap curtain rail and the first attempt was rather terrible. I tried again this time doing things properly. I sanded the core wood, divided the circumference into sections, sanded and glued every other plank and carefully prepared all of the remaining planks to fit their spaces using walnut this time instead of cheap birch. I cut semi-circular pieces of copper sheet to create the hoops and soldered and epoxied everything in place. Despite all this, the new barrel does not look much better than the previous one! The new one is on the left. Anyway, I am waiting for some LOS to blacken the copper.

Great work Mehmet, you can see boats like this in the Greek islands. I enjoy walking in the harbours and occasionally you come across an old boat, dirty and run down which stands out amongst the other better maintained boats. Some have been sitting idle for years or the owner has aged and is equally run down to really care. But to be honest your boat would be the worst I ve seen! Still, amazing work. Makes you want to take it on as a restoration project!

The boat is coming along fine Patrick, it is a very impressive yacht. Superb work, I think it is very difficult to get this right and make all this massive superstructure look elegant. I must say I had not appreciated from the drawings how lovely it would look. On a different note, were the photos taken during actual work? After 20 minutes my workbench looks like having been hit by a hurricane.

Mary Christmas Patrick, happiness and prosperity in a stone-free 2016!

Little progress made, partly due to my daughters tonsillitis and partly due to many silly mistakes. The new ropes are a joy to work with. I am still waiting for a variety of threads as I need various rope sizes but at least I could finish the standing rigging. Splicing is very satisfying now. I also replaced the ropes in all the blocks and used Tang oil. They look now much nicer The new shrouds compared to the old ones are way better And of course the standing rigging has to come down once more as the forestay is in the wrong place, it should have been tied to the upper hole. All done! I must admit there is quite a bit of tension in that forestay! The deadeyes look good The forestay is served throughout its length as the jib rings will run along it I also made a few pulley blocks, for the jib sheet and the stern traveler I then took a break from boat building and made a rifle. After all this is an exploration ketch so one needs to be prepared. Oiled walnut stock, stainless barrel, even glass bedding (I used epoxy to glue the barrel)! The figure is roughly 1:12 scale. In the background the blocks for the rope traveller can be seen.

Could be a replacement for some epoxy applications but only when light can get through so I think very limited usefulness for modelling. Looks very expensive also.