puckotred

Finally , I finished some drawings and I can continue with this topic without pressure :
 
Dear friends, I would like to present MarisStella ''intermediate level'' model : Stilac..
This type of the ship is describet at our website like this:
 
ŠTILAC is a ship of recent times, namely of the 19th century, is welcomed by a large number of boat builders. She is built along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea to transport a wide variety of products linking the islands to the mainland. To explain and present this simple design, between the coastal people there is “a deep rooted” expression for the construction of the ship - well done. The stern and sails were taken from Bracera, the bow by the logger. This ship can be from 12 to 20 meters long. ŠTILAC still sails today, obviously with an engine and without sails and is used for the transport of passengers and for the extraction and transport of marine sands.
The keel and the posts of this model are made of solid walnut wood, like all the elements of the deck and sides. The sails are embroidered on the cloth. The structural elements are laser cut.

 

In the end of this presentation, here are some photographs of the finished model ...
 
 

Hi everyone... thanks for the likes ...

Nirvana, it is very nice to have a chance to say something about our sails : those are present at all of our sailing ship models, in the kits. Those are made of natural fabric, embroidered... this means the sails are made with the stitches on already, but the modeler has to cut them off the sheet of fabric and to make a hem or two... The modeler has to add the ropes at the sails' edges  and they are ready to go ...
 
Regards, Zoran

Good Day,
 
I guess this will be my second to last post for the Brazzera. Almost done. I thought I'd try out some natural daylight shots for a change. Only small tidy up things to complete: cleat and arrange all lines, add oar locks and oars, cathead block system and a stand.
 
Ian
 

Then the sails : for the both of the masts...
 
 

I hate to be the partybreaker, (well not really) but I had a Dremel 3000 and the drill stand and in my opinion it's crap. The drill stand is too wobbly to do anything more than drill a hole in the general direction of where you want it. I sold them and got me a Proxxon MB 200 drill stand and 240/e. Much more precise. I believe one can get a Dremel adapter to the the MB 200...

I hate to be the partybreaker, (well not really) but I had a Dremel 3000 and the drill stand and in my opinion it's crap. The drill stand is too wobbly to do anything more than drill a hole in the general direction of where you want it. I sold them and got me a Proxxon MB 200 drill stand and 240/e. Much more precise. I believe one can get a Dremel adapter to the the MB 200...

I hate to be the partybreaker, (well not really) but I had a Dremel 3000 and the drill stand and in my opinion it's crap. The drill stand is too wobbly to do anything more than drill a hole in the general direction of where you want it. I sold them and got me a Proxxon MB 200 drill stand and 240/e. Much more precise. I believe one can get a Dremel adapter to the the MB 200...

There has been recently many methods shown to make strops around small blocks. When rigging the guns for my Le Cerf I needed a big number of small 3 mm double blocks. For making strops around these  I made this simple fixture, which fullfilled it`s task quite reasonably.
 
First a simple construction was made of a piece of scrap wood and 2 mm plywood.  Small pieces of 1 mm and 0,6 mm iron wire were glued into the bottom of the jig, and grooves were sawn with jeweler`s saw into the plywood walls:

 
 
Pieces of 0,15 mm thread were put into the first grooves, and blocks were positioned to the jig so that the 0,6 mm wire was put through one hole of the block:
 
 
Then small pieces of 0,6 mm rigging thread were placed into the second grooves:

 
 
And then it was rotated around the block and then around the 1 mm iron wire:

 
And now it remained only to make a small knot between the block and the 1 mm loop using the thinner thread, and attach small blops of diluted PVA glue into both ends of the block. After the glue had dried, ends of threads were cut as near as possible of the block.....

 
..... and blocks were ready......

 
......and used for rigging the guns:

 
 

Thanks Mr. Pucko...

Beautiful...

Thank you tasmanian and Clare
 
 
I finished the lower part of the hull.
 
 
 
I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture.
Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.

Thank you tasmanian and Clare
 
 
I finished the lower part of the hull.
 
 
 
I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture.
Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.

Looking good! Great job!

Beautiful...

Beautiful...

and thet the rudder... it has a nose-the support on the bottom of the stern...

the rudder hinges are tipical for this type of Trabaccolo.... the rudder goes down the keel for about 1m. This has a purpose like the keel extension and makes the sailing to be more safe...
 
 

Hi mates,
 
Martyn - so kind thanks so much.
 
Minor update but big one for me.
 
Decided to “bite the bullet” and challenge myself to improve areas that were new and very uncomfortable (working with sail details) – so most of the day yesterday was trying to get these two particular sails acceptably ‘ok’ – feeling comfortable with the results;
 
The other nine are waiting in the wings, but I now have a direction.
 
PS: these two sprit sails are reduced by 30+% - they will be furled.
Would have been too bulky (scale wise )in full size --- Frank (fmodjr) thanks for that sage advice from your superb Vasa build log - I followed your build, and will furl all lower sails, but partially raising the lower main as you did- love that look that you created.
 
Cheers,
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Frank thanks – nice of you to comment – much appreciated needed a “pep talk”…Denis Cheers as well !
 
Mates -Apologies for venting on my last post. Not a place in which to do this. Your kindness in following along, posting or just dropping in is not for some builder (me) complaining.
 
That said - after, I decided to go outside, smoke a nice Churchill (along with a Single Malt (or two) of course).  Listen to my baseball team on the radio, and also allow for some introspection. Cigar took care of any TV-  Admiral would have lowered the plank and pulled out her sword. Can't blame her actually...
 
It then struck me that to rush parts that are not “fun” will result, on the backside, with disappointment. Especially given the attention that I have spent trying to build it as best that I can “right” so far. Thanks Frank!!
 
So I will work in this area more carefully spending all of the time that I need to not feel that it is work, but instead as a new challenge in trying to improve my skills.
 
Minor update:
 
Found a way to add those reinforcement bits to the sails. Tea steeped some left over sailcloth to allow for a slightly darker tint.
 
Found that Gorilla Wood Glue is perfect for fixing those little cloth bits, and still allow flexing.
 
Added little dots trying to achieve the stitched look – not sure on that part. Too dark I think?
 
Won’t post until I really move forward – no point in boring you mates any further with this area.
 
As always thanks so much for the likes, posts or just dropping by……
 
 
Cheers,

Thanks very much MD1400cs, and Dan,
 
the case is done, except for the four bottom metal corners, I should have bought 8 instead of 4, ordered 4 more
Every time a case is complete, I `m glad there was no broken glass during process....
On the KWdG there is still some rigging to be done, I`ll forward a set of final Photos, when all is complete..
 
Nils
 

Baseplate with 6 positioning pins and removeable bottom rail of the glas bonnet
 

corner pin
 

mid-length pin, the width of the ships own stand base fits well in between those lugs
 

pins, (screws) clipped off at the rear side
 

frame, glass and metal corners....
 

 
 

have to mount the four bottom metal corners securely, before the bonnet can be taken off in one part
 

 
 
 
 

And just to let everyone know I am still working on models.....not just a hippie activist.
 
Today the step was built.  It has a laser etched slot to aid in its assembly.  Then at the bow there is what I would call a "standard" of sorts.   It has a hole in it to help secure the pole for the flag.   Another will be drilled through the platform below it but I figured it would be damn near impossible to laser cut the hole on the platform and then line them up so the pole is straight.  So I will be drilling with the bit running through the hole in the standard making sure that afterwards the pole will sit upward and straight.  
 
Except for a very few details inboard,  the inboard part of the project is complete.  NNow I will move outboard and begin to finish up the carvings.   Then after that its the home stretch.    Happy modeling everyone!!!!  
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you tasmanian and Clare
 
 
I finished the lower part of the hull.
 
 
 
I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture.
Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.

Thank you tasmanian and Clare
 
 
I finished the lower part of the hull.
 
 
 
I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture.
Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.

Thank you tasmanian and Clare
 
 
I finished the lower part of the hull.
 
 
 
I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture.
Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.

Hello Pucko, very nice looking build. I've been eyeing a couple xebec kits including this one. Hollowneck did a nice job on his and is in the gallery. Looks like you're doing a great job!