catopower

Quick update. I started the rigging process and added the lower deadeyes using 24 gauge annealed steel wire. The kit provides faux chainplates to glue over the wire, which I added later.
 
First, I served the shrouds where they wrap around the mast head. I decided to go ahead and serve the forward shroud the full length using the finest thread I could find, short of using fly tying monofilament line, which I've had trouble using in the past.
 
I made the shrouds long and used a method for locating the upper deadeyes show in some of the Shipyard kit instructions, which has you tied the ends of each shroud together with it's corresponding shroud under the hull of the ship. I just used clips. Then, glue the deadeyes to the shrouds all at the same height, making sure the deadeyes are all oriented the same. 
 
Once the glue has dried, you then loosen the shrouds, cut off the excess and then finish wrapping deadeye in the shroud end and trying things off. Of course, you have to make sure that you end up with the deadeye oriented correctly as your wrapping the shroud around it and tying things off.
 
This seemed to work okay, though the served shroud doesn't stretch like the other shrouds, so I seemed to have more issues with its alignment to the rest when I reeved the deadeyes. I didn't tie off the shroud lanyards yet, as I thought I might need to take the mast off the model to work on adding the mainsail, square topsail and boom, gaff and yards. 
 
But, given that there is a fair amount of room to work with the mast in place on this cutter rig, I may go ahead and tie them off. I'll probably add the backstays and mainstays before I start on the ratlines.
 
Sorry, the photos I've been taking lately look terrible. I have been experimenting with lighting and backdrops and such and having really mixed results with everything I've been trying. I have some ideas yet, which I can try another time.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Meanwhile, I've started adding more blocks, eyebolts, etc.  I think I want to get the mainsail into place next before I add the remaining stays.
 
Clare

Quick update. I started the rigging process and added the lower deadeyes using 24 gauge annealed steel wire. The kit provides faux chainplates to glue over the wire, which I added later.
 
First, I served the shrouds where they wrap around the mast head. I decided to go ahead and serve the forward shroud the full length using the finest thread I could find, short of using fly tying monofilament line, which I've had trouble using in the past.
 
I made the shrouds long and used a method for locating the upper deadeyes show in some of the Shipyard kit instructions, which has you tied the ends of each shroud together with it's corresponding shroud under the hull of the ship. I just used clips. Then, glue the deadeyes to the shrouds all at the same height, making sure the deadeyes are all oriented the same. 
 
Once the glue has dried, you then loosen the shrouds, cut off the excess and then finish wrapping deadeye in the shroud end and trying things off. Of course, you have to make sure that you end up with the deadeye oriented correctly as your wrapping the shroud around it and tying things off.
 
This seemed to work okay, though the served shroud doesn't stretch like the other shrouds, so I seemed to have more issues with its alignment to the rest when I reeved the deadeyes. I didn't tie off the shroud lanyards yet, as I thought I might need to take the mast off the model to work on adding the mainsail, square topsail and boom, gaff and yards. 
 
But, given that there is a fair amount of room to work with the mast in place on this cutter rig, I may go ahead and tie them off. I'll probably add the backstays and mainstays before I start on the ratlines.
 
Sorry, the photos I've been taking lately look terrible. I have been experimenting with lighting and backdrops and such and having really mixed results with everything I've been trying. I have some ideas yet, which I can try another time.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Meanwhile, I've started adding more blocks, eyebolts, etc.  I think I want to get the mainsail into place next before I add the remaining stays.
 
Clare

Quick update. I started the rigging process and added the lower deadeyes using 24 gauge annealed steel wire. The kit provides faux chainplates to glue over the wire, which I added later.
 
First, I served the shrouds where they wrap around the mast head. I decided to go ahead and serve the forward shroud the full length using the finest thread I could find, short of using fly tying monofilament line, which I've had trouble using in the past.
 
I made the shrouds long and used a method for locating the upper deadeyes show in some of the Shipyard kit instructions, which has you tied the ends of each shroud together with it's corresponding shroud under the hull of the ship. I just used clips. Then, glue the deadeyes to the shrouds all at the same height, making sure the deadeyes are all oriented the same. 
 
Once the glue has dried, you then loosen the shrouds, cut off the excess and then finish wrapping deadeye in the shroud end and trying things off. Of course, you have to make sure that you end up with the deadeye oriented correctly as your wrapping the shroud around it and tying things off.
 
This seemed to work okay, though the served shroud doesn't stretch like the other shrouds, so I seemed to have more issues with its alignment to the rest when I reeved the deadeyes. I didn't tie off the shroud lanyards yet, as I thought I might need to take the mast off the model to work on adding the mainsail, square topsail and boom, gaff and yards. 
 
But, given that there is a fair amount of room to work with the mast in place on this cutter rig, I may go ahead and tie them off. I'll probably add the backstays and mainstays before I start on the ratlines.
 
Sorry, the photos I've been taking lately look terrible. I have been experimenting with lighting and backdrops and such and having really mixed results with everything I've been trying. I have some ideas yet, which I can try another time.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Meanwhile, I've started adding more blocks, eyebolts, etc.  I think I want to get the mainsail into place next before I add the remaining stays.
 
Clare

Butapren glue is an equivalent to the ordinary contact cement available in the US. It is a derivative of chloroprene and natural rubber, used primarily in the shoe industry, hence the first part of its name - "but" (a shoe in Polish). I am not a chemist, so I cannot authoritatively state its exact similarities or differences. Hope this helps.

I've used Amati and for commercially produced line it's not too bad.  Compared to Model Ship Ways junk it's spun gold, but it's not close to Chuck's Syren line.  Considering the time spent on building a model, don't skimp on line.

all- thanks for the insights.
 
Clare--my most detailed model that is already in the closet is the MS Niagara. it will certainly use a bit of line and take some time.
 
 
before that, i am about to start on a AL Bluenose-II and then the MS Glad Tidings. got the Bluenose second hand and it is complete except for the line. i may use the slick Model Shipways line for both of these.
 
we hope to get up to PA to see the niagara firsthand and take a lot of photos
 
i'm trying to not plan too far out as arthritis is really slowing me down. Buying from Chuck might be the best way to go, already have some of his fine blocks and they are great.

I have to agree with Clare.  There is too much work involved rigging the ship to use a rope that is less than satisfactory.  The cost is insignificant when the work involved enters the equation.  Chuck's rope is beautiful as are his blocks.  Spend a few extra bucks and you will never be sorry.  The rope machine is an easily constructed item and a lot of fun to use.  I built mine about 10 years ago and don't know how I ever got by without it.
 
Good Luck and I hope the arthritis lets up.  I have the same problem with that.

jbford, what is it that you are building that you don't think is good enough for nice quality rigging line?
 
You will definitely find that the good stuff will enhance your build and your enjoyment.
 
Of course, if you're rigging a 3-masted ship, it might take a good supply of line.
 
I turned my own rigging line early on, but I was never really very satisfied with what I could produce. I have given in to the wisdom of buying line from Chuck Passaro – it's really nice stuff!
 
Clare

Down, boy...

Down, boy...

Down, boy...

Thanks for the supportive comments Cog, Druxey, Telp and Mark.
 
Cog, okay, you're probably right... Watch. My next paper (card) model will probably have open bulwarks! 
 
Telp, I doubt I'll ever go down the path of 3D printing, though there are some 3D printed parts that I'm sure I'll use. I already bought a 3D printed ship's wheel for a 1:78-scale HMS Victory model. I won't necessarily use it if I can make one that looks good enough. Overall, I like building the parts myself, even if they're not perfect.
 
Of course, with a paper kit, it's a different game, with its own challenges. Don't know that I'd ever feel up to the task of scratch-building a paper model. For now, I'll stick to kits, or at least to this one kit.
 
But, I have to admit, I picked up another Shipyard kit (HMS Mercury) that I thought I might partially build as a display model showing the hull construction style. I also thought one would make a great dockyard scene with the ship's hull completed and ready for launch – a follow up to a discussion here on flags mounted on a Royal Navy ship at launch.
 
Clare

Down, boy...

Thanks for the supportive comments Cog, Druxey, Telp and Mark.
 
Cog, okay, you're probably right... Watch. My next paper (card) model will probably have open bulwarks! 
 
Telp, I doubt I'll ever go down the path of 3D printing, though there are some 3D printed parts that I'm sure I'll use. I already bought a 3D printed ship's wheel for a 1:78-scale HMS Victory model. I won't necessarily use it if I can make one that looks good enough. Overall, I like building the parts myself, even if they're not perfect.
 
Of course, with a paper kit, it's a different game, with its own challenges. Don't know that I'd ever feel up to the task of scratch-building a paper model. For now, I'll stick to kits, or at least to this one kit.
 
But, I have to admit, I picked up another Shipyard kit (HMS Mercury) that I thought I might partially build as a display model showing the hull construction style. I also thought one would make a great dockyard scene with the ship's hull completed and ready for launch – a follow up to a discussion here on flags mounted on a Royal Navy ship at launch.
 
Clare

Down, boy...

David: welcome aboard! I'm really pleased to see your smiling face again.
 
Elijah, those REVENGE builders ahead of me, whom I am attentively following also mention the excellent fits.
 
Doc, in my case the proxy server didn't pass the MSW notifications. I fixed it by putting my real address in MSW.
 
Many thanks to the kind folks adding "Likes".
 
Several small steps over the past few days, each time consuming.
 
Having not a lot of experience with my air brush it took me two days to obtain a finish on the brass hatches and wood frames that I am satisfied with. Setup/knockdown of the tabletop spray booth, cleanup and giving the Iwata airbrush the cleanup it deserves is a long process. But gosh, the Iwata is an object of mechanical art and the paint application leaves nothing to be desired. The shiny spot on the lower left painted grate is a light reflection. Paint coverage is excellent.
 

 
Following the lead of Martin and Denis, I laid out three decks for planking.
 

 
This is a dry fit to lay out one of the planked decks.
 

 
The lower deck is in two pieces. If it was one piece it would still be possible to mount it. I have laid it out on a thick glass plate and joined the two halves with 60 minute epoxy. Here it is seen clamped and weighted for overnight curing. Once the epoxy cures I'll plank the deck while it is on the glass plate then mount it in the hull.
 

 
Respectfully,
John
Total Time 24 hours

I have been working on a small project that required some small silver nails, these nails are 1/4 inch long and .035" at the largest diameter.
 
step 1 was to cut a wedge of silver from some annealed sheet silver, and using a tiny watchmakers hammer forge it roughtly into a rounded shape
 

 
step 2 was to clean up the long blank with a fine file
 

 
Step 3 using the same small watchmakers hammer to upset the head
 

 
step 4 back to the steel plate to tap the head into a round shape
 

 
step 5 with the rough nail in a pin vice a second peening to dome the head.
 

 
step 6 the top was polished with a leather polishing stick (Basically a strip of wood with some leather off cut stuck to it with double sided carpet tape)
 

 
The finished nails I actually had to make 2 of them.
 

 

 
Michael

Thanks for the supportive comments Cog, Druxey, Telp and Mark.
 
Cog, okay, you're probably right... Watch. My next paper (card) model will probably have open bulwarks! 
 
Telp, I doubt I'll ever go down the path of 3D printing, though there are some 3D printed parts that I'm sure I'll use. I already bought a 3D printed ship's wheel for a 1:78-scale HMS Victory model. I won't necessarily use it if I can make one that looks good enough. Overall, I like building the parts myself, even if they're not perfect.
 
Of course, with a paper kit, it's a different game, with its own challenges. Don't know that I'd ever feel up to the task of scratch-building a paper model. For now, I'll stick to kits, or at least to this one kit.
 
But, I have to admit, I picked up another Shipyard kit (HMS Mercury) that I thought I might partially build as a display model showing the hull construction style. I also thought one would make a great dockyard scene with the ship's hull completed and ready for launch – a follow up to a discussion here on flags mounted on a Royal Navy ship at launch.
 
Clare

Ooooh - HMS Mercury. 

Thanks for this build log! Wonderful work!

amazing work Clare,
 
it`s card, but looks like a very well built wooden model, a beautiful ship, and respect, all in 1:96 !!
 
Nils

Somehow I missed the last few months' updates, so just caught up with you. Lovely work there on such a small scale, Clare!

Wow, how clever is that idea, she looks lovely indeed. How long will it be before we are all using 3D printers to make models.

Thanks for the supportive comments Cog, Druxey, Telp and Mark.
 
Cog, okay, you're probably right... Watch. My next paper (card) model will probably have open bulwarks! 
 
Telp, I doubt I'll ever go down the path of 3D printing, though there are some 3D printed parts that I'm sure I'll use. I already bought a 3D printed ship's wheel for a 1:78-scale HMS Victory model. I won't necessarily use it if I can make one that looks good enough. Overall, I like building the parts myself, even if they're not perfect.
 
Of course, with a paper kit, it's a different game, with its own challenges. Don't know that I'd ever feel up to the task of scratch-building a paper model. For now, I'll stick to kits, or at least to this one kit.
 
But, I have to admit, I picked up another Shipyard kit (HMS Mercury) that I thought I might partially build as a display model showing the hull construction style. I also thought one would make a great dockyard scene with the ship's hull completed and ready for launch – a follow up to a discussion here on flags mounted on a Royal Navy ship at launch.
 
Clare

Thanks for the supportive comments Cog, Druxey, Telp and Mark.
 
Cog, okay, you're probably right... Watch. My next paper (card) model will probably have open bulwarks! 
 
Telp, I doubt I'll ever go down the path of 3D printing, though there are some 3D printed parts that I'm sure I'll use. I already bought a 3D printed ship's wheel for a 1:78-scale HMS Victory model. I won't necessarily use it if I can make one that looks good enough. Overall, I like building the parts myself, even if they're not perfect.
 
Of course, with a paper kit, it's a different game, with its own challenges. Don't know that I'd ever feel up to the task of scratch-building a paper model. For now, I'll stick to kits, or at least to this one kit.
 
But, I have to admit, I picked up another Shipyard kit (HMS Mercury) that I thought I might partially build as a display model showing the hull construction style. I also thought one would make a great dockyard scene with the ship's hull completed and ready for launch – a follow up to a discussion here on flags mounted on a Royal Navy ship at launch.
 
Clare