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Katsumoto

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  1. I have to blow off the dust of my buildlog. I'm sorry for that, just so bussy with work. I did continue a lot and I'll post my update more frequently from now on. So, the kit comes with standard laser-cut parts out of plywood. It's been stained with a dark "walnut" stain. I do not like it so I discart these parts and make my own out of solid walnut. More to come, have some catching up to do in my buildlog... 😅 Regards, Peter
  2. Hello my friend. Your RC looks lovely! Great ship she will be when she's finished! Keep following your build! I'm back building my new project and started yesterday with my first post. See yah later Messis and keep posting those lovely updates! Peter
  3. ***OcCre - Cazador Jabeque / Xebec 1750*** Hello my friends, it's been a while since my last buildlog of Santa Maria Buildlog. Today I would like to present my new log of the Xebec Cazador of OcCre. As a child I was fan of the Redbeard comics, maybe known by some of you. Anyway, one of the titles was "Fight With The Moors" (1973) and describes a story of Moorish pirates who looted merchant ships in the Mediterranean sea. The ships they used were fast, agile and armed to the teeth Xebecs! In the story, ships were plundered, crew were killed, the ship burned to the ground and women were kidnapped and sold on the black market as slaves. It intrigued me because regular ships, even well armed were not capable to cope with these dangerous circumstances and the Xebec's with their ruthless crew were winning most of the fights. Ofcourse this Redbeard story was fiction but based on true events in that timeperiod. A different and dark time compare with today so to say. The Spanish Crown built Cazador mid 18th century to fight the Moors in the Mediteranean Sea. To me, this was the conclusion to take on this ship and build her myself. A beautifull representation of a Spanish Xebec in combat with the Moors is shown below. It's a picture of Ángel Cortellini Sánchez! Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DonAntonioBarcelóConSuJabequeCorreoRindeADosGaleotasArgelinas.jpg OcCre - Ocio Creativo made a beautiful kitmodel but compare to reality it has some shortcomings. I'm not sure if I have the possibilities to change a couple of things, but we will see on the way. My workplace is the dining table in the dining room with only my handtools and hopefully a lot of creativity! ☺️ Some specifications of the kitmodel Ref: 14002 Scale: 1:60 Length: 860mm / 33.9 inches Height: 630mm / 24.8 inches Width: 160mm / 6.3 inches Chapter 1 - The Box and parts The boxart is pretty basic but neat and tidy. It looks like OcCre use the box design for almost all their models kits. A picture of the ship makes the difference and is a piece of paper which sticks to the box. It's the contents of the box that has my interest. Wel about the contents inside the box. All things are neatly packed and the milled wood looks all right. Not perfect or of the highest quality, but just fine. What bothers me are the plywood parts. Even the keel, transom parts are made of plywood and stained into a walnut color. I prefer walnut parts instead of stained plywood. Chapter 2 - A new beginning To me the scale of the ship and the less complexity of the model is ideal for the dining table situation. After modeling I can easily clean up the table and put the box, tools and the ship away for the next moment. After inspecting the parts, I start with numbering the plywood parts. After numbering the parts, I'll cut the parts out of the frame and dryfit the bulkheads. The plywood it very thin and brittle. The bulkhead fits nicely on the main plate of the ship. After putting some glue on the bulkheads, it's time to cut out the main deckplate. Hopefully this give the structure some rigidity and strength. Time to plank the deck. I choose a pattern and start laying the strips. Unfortunately the strips a not consistent in thickness and varies widely between 1 - 1,3mm. After a while... Job's done. Time to scrape the deck flush. Also the upper part of a bulkhead needs to be covered with the same strips but placed verticaly. At the aft of the ship, strips of veneer are placed horizontally. I bend the veneer with an iron so it follows the curve of the bulkhead. It's hard to do, but to me it looks a bit nicer instead of straight strips. Time to put another deck plate on the ship. Also this needs to be covered with some strips of wood...it's the same process as on the main deck. Well, it's a start so to say. I'll try to update once a week if possible. If you like to leave a comment, I'll appreciate it and please feel free to ask me any questions. See yah later! Peter
  4. Hi Lapinas, For a first ship, you are doing and have done a wonderful job. Very very good for a first model with an excellent planking job on your hull. Even for experienced modelers this is a difficult task for most! I have build the SM also, but from another brand (Artesania Latina) both look similar but things are very different in both kits. I wish you all the luck and fun of building your first modelship. Remember, a tip from one to another. Your first model is not about a perfect build, but to complete the model and use it as a study / learning proces for the next build. For finishes I'm font of "oils". So I use Danish Oil as a finish. It's easy to whipe on and after two or three thin layers a nice matt / semi gloss finish as a result. Remeber when using oil as a finish, only apply oil on the surface of the wood when nothing else has to glue onto it. 1: oil on rag / towel / cloth and whipe on, 2: after a few minutes, whipe off with clean rag / towel / cloth, 3: repeat step 1 and 2 of another 2 times, but use a couple of hours in between so the layers can sink into the wood, depending on the brand. Have fun! Peter
  5. Thank you PJTheJet for mentioning me, or better my buildlog in your topic. You have done some spectacular research which will come to good use during the build. I will follow with great interest. The manual and the pictures provided by AL are rubbish for this particular kit. You will raise some questions for sure when you get to the rigging part. Good luck on your build mon-amis!
  6. Good question B, I did not make these holes due to the scale of the ship. They would be so tiny and also on the outside of the hull a real pain in the @$$ to make. So I choose to make the model without.
  7. Well spoken, thank you I can talk for hours on this subject! 🙂Time to get back to your model! 😉 Peter
  8. Thank you for your answer Ab! The shell first method so...I mean at that timeperiod the biggest ships were build in Rotterdam and Amsterdam at the “admiraliteit”. Someone on the Bataviawerf told me that the shell first method was a common method used in Rotterdam but not always in Amsterdam. By that they followed the Amsterdam way by placing the frames first for the 7 provincien replica. Your answer tells me that this was probably not true at all and it was the custom to build shell first on all the “big” shipyards in the Netherlands, they just forgotten how to build it that way and tried and failed to use the frames first method. I love the shape and ingenuity of the Dutch ships...makes me proud to be a Dutchman. 😉 thanks again, Peter
  9. Hi Ab, Big fan of you and your work of historic Dutch shipbuilding. Planking method of a 17th century Dutch vessels hull differs a lot for instance with a English, French or Spanish vessel of that timeperiod. Do you know the reason why the Dutch choose a different way of planking? May also the "vlakbouw" method be of importance in this instance? Also the hull shape is smaller / sleeker and at the bow much more flatter. This is also good to be seen at your yacht. These differences has alway's intrigued me, but the answers are not clear to me. Following your build with great interest! regards, Peter
  10. Yep, it’s an easy fix so it looks like! Thanks for your support Sir! 🙂
  11. Check! I read that the kit was fabricated by Artesania Latina with the help and research of the Vasa museum. Pretty impressie kit it is, but a bit expensive! 🙂
  12. A masterpiece! Is this Deagostini version based on the Corel kit? It sure does like it so it seems? beautiful workmanship, One of the best Vasa models I have seen.
  13. Congratulations with this beautifull kit and ship. I wouldn’t have picked this as a first model. Too complex and also you picked a nice but a bit unfriendly manufacturer Corel looking at the instruction manual and drawings. however, It’s up to you. I’ll hope you’ll manage and have the endurance to pull it off. Many people before you started with a Victory as a first timer but didn’t make it. I’ll hope you do. The pressure is on. 😬🙂 Good luck and just build, make mistakes and learn along the way. Also, have fun most importantly! 😉 Peter
  14. Perfection, almost looks like a scratchbuild boat. Master Corabel knows how to engineer a modelkit!! Nice wood too, lovely Pearwood. You make a jewel out of this one!
  15. Hi guys, Fascinating how this build develops...before I go on with my log, I just want you to know that mistakes are made. It happens, doesn't matter to much if you know how to fix it or accept the mistakes. In this case the same...I couldn't find it what I was looking for on the drawings of the ship so I made a assumption and a decision. Both were wrong... Okay, what happend is that I started with putting the lower pre-cut deck into place. This worked out very well and then I assumed that the kit didn't provided deckplanking by placing wooden veneer strips onto the pre-cut deck. What gave me that idea? Well, check this...It's already pre-fabricated with simulated deckplanks... Then, I couldn't find any picture in the chaotic drawings that stated this needed strips of woodveneer.....So I made the decision to do place woodveneer strips at this stage of the build.....I shouldn't have done this.... Why? Well....later on in the proces, the supporting parts or upper parts of the bulkheads needs to be cut away! This can only be done when the upper sides of the ship are planked! Then I found a small picture which shown that the deck should be covered with veneer strips following the pattern on the false deck....Oops!!! So, the following pictures and the continuation of the log was prior of this information..... Okay, I know how to solve this issue and I will do so at the proper time. So you know.... Sheet 1 - figure 6 & 7 placing false deck I begin with the parts needed for this stage. Again the same proces, as mentioned before. Free parts, clean up and use on the ship. The next picture shows the false decks on the ship. At the green arrow, the false deck needs to be flipped and is in a way upside down. I've already changed this on the model, but did not make a picture of it. So, here I goes with the mistake mentioned above, to start with the planking proces in this stage of the build. I use regular white woodglue. with a bit of glue on the wood I spread it carefully with a brush or my finger to get an even coverage. A nice factor as well is that the glue doesn't spread over the rest of the model while placing the strip on the deck. Continuation of the proces... First part done, next the other half... So, the lower deck has been planked. I use a scraping tool to smoothen out the deck. I do not use sandpaper for this proces. So, this is where I am at this moment. I'll correct my mistake in a later proces by cutting away the strips where the top of the bulkheads are placed. After removing the top of the bulkheads I'll place some new strips and all should be fine again. Until next time and thanks for following... Peter
  16. Thanks Ondras, You are right, I noticed this earlier and I can fix this when I give the bulkheads their final shape prior the planking stage. However I'm still debating with myself if I place a new keel and stem or use the pre-cut one thats on the ship at this moment. Yup, you are right as well. Thank you Sir! regards, Peter
  17. What a great kit! Nice work Peta. Do not forget to finish your great Looking Royal Caroline. 😉 peter
  18. Thanks OC and Sea Hoss. Tomorrow I’ll continue with RC. peter
  19. Sheet 1 - Figure 3 - Reinforcements of the hull G'day mates, We're off on a rocket start with RC. Today more reinforcements on the hull / preperation for the false deck. Sheet 1 - Figure 4 The following picture shows some reinforcement plates that really give the construction some strength. Sheet 1 - Figure 5 The following pictures shows the false deckbeams to hold the false deck. Again it's the same procedure. Select the needed parts, get them out of the frame and clean up with sandpaper grid 80 before it's placed on the ship. Well, I'm still struggling with the plans and included manua, it's rubbish!!!l I believe the poor instructions and not having detailed drawings, step by step shown process is a issue most manufacturers lack. Luckily it's not my first ship I've build so I think I'll manage. See yah around and thanks for stopping by! Peter
  20. Hi Mustafa! Thank you, please drop by from time to time! Thanks for your support sir! Peter
  21. Hi guys, It's time to show some progress on the Royal Caroline. But first I'll change my index of my log. I want to keep the chapters in line with the plans of the ship. Sheet 1 - Figure 2: gluing the bulkheads Time to glue the bulkheads onto the keelplate and to keep them straight I'll use Lego blocks. It's a wrap for this update, time to relax. Until next time, keep posting! regards, Peter
  22. ***Royal Caroline 1749 - Panart / Mantua Models*** Hello my friends!! It has been a while, a few months actually after completing my Santa Maria project. It was a joy to build and a honour to receive all those warm responses! I hope not to let you guys / galls down with this new project! During my absense I moved to a new house and I have been busy to make it a home. My last house was a temp. rental and the place had limited space. Due to the limited space I had to build my SM in the kitchen at the kitchentable. Our new house has enough space to have my own buildingplace, but I desided not to move to a seperate room. I liked working in the kitchen which is close to my family members in the house and so I'm not so isolated. Having small kids, this suits my family best. I do not use powertools, so I can easily clean up my workplace after working on the ship. What to choose... So, I had some difficulties to make a choice of a model for my next project. I narrowed my search to go for an Italian manufacturer like Amati, Corel or Mantua / Sergal / Panart, Euromodel. I had a specific budget for my next model as well, so that narrowed my search again. At last I desided to go for a English, Dutch or French 17th or 18th century. By this a few model ships were left on the list and I choose Royal Caroline of Panart, which is part of Mantua Models. The history of HMY Royal Caroline 1750 HMY Royal Caroline was a ship-rigged royal yacht. She was ordered in 1749 to replace HMY Carolina as Britain's principal royal yacht. She was built at Deptford Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright John Hollond to a design by Surveyor of the Navy Joseph Allin. She was launched on 29 January 1750 and was broken up 70 years later, in 1820. Service Royal Caroline was first commissioned under Captain Sir Charles Molloy, who commanded her until 1753. Captain Sir Piercy Brett took over in 1754, and in August 1761 she became the flagship of Admiral of the Fleet Lord Anson, with Captain Peter Denis as his flag-captain. Anson had orders to convey Duchess Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz from Cuxhaven, Kiel to marry George III. Accompanying the yacht, renamed HMY Royal Charlotte in honour of the occasion, was a squadron of warships and four other royal yachts, HMY Mary, Katherine, Augusta and Fubbs. During the return voyage the squadron was three times blown over to the Norwegian coast by westerly gales and took ten days to reach Harwich, which it did on 6 September 1761. Royal Charlotte was commissioned under Peter Denis in December 1763, and remained under his command until 1770. Denis was succeeded by Captain John Campbell that year, and Campbell remained in command until his promotion to rear-admiral in 1777.[1] Royal Charlotte was recommissioned under Captain William Cornwallis in March 1783, and he was succeeded in turn by Captain Sir Hyde Parker in 1788. The yacht was briefly recommissioned in December 1792, but was paid off the following year. French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars She continued to be used for official occasions during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with King George III making frequent trips in his yachts to welcome returning fleets and to conduct fleet reviews. The King embarked on Royal Charlotte in 1797 to visit the fleet at the Nore after the Battle of Camperdown, in order to honour Admiral Adam Duncan. Contrary winds however prevented the ship from reaching the mouth of the Thames, and instead the King was blown back up river to Greenwich. Royal Charlotte recommissioned again in May 1801 under Captain Sir Harry Neale, though by February 1804 Captain George Grey was in command. Grey was succeeded later in 1804 by Captain George Henry Towry, and he in turn in 1805 by Captain Edward Foote. By this time Royal Charlotte had been succeeded as the principal royal yacht by the introduction of the slightly larger HMY Royal Sovereign in 1804. Captain Foote commanded the yacht until 1812, when Captain Thomas Eyles took over command, and in June 1814 Captain George Scott became her commander. Royal Charlotte continued in service until July 1820, when she was finally broken up. source: Wikipedia The ins and outs of the box The box itself is made of cardboard. The typical standard in boxland. Shape of the box is long and narrow to hold wooden and metal parts. The boxart and artistic layout of colorfull images on the box scream "buy me and build me" Also a common standard in boxland! Everthing is neatly organized and sealed. The small ornaments and metal parts does look very good. After a look at the drawings however I recognize the Italian "style" of organized "chaos".... I will have a handfull on the poor drawings and poor instructions.... So, the wood looks nice doh... The pre-cut laser parts look good as well....just make sure I'll sand off the burn of the laser for a good fix between the wooden parts.... In a nutshell does the kit look very promising and a joy to build for sure. I'm not sure about some details, alternations and colorscheme yet, but this will become clear during my log of this build. Technical specifications and size Lengte: 830 mm Hoogte: 600 mm Schaal: 1:47 Part no: MM750 The build begins! Sheet 1 figure 1: it begins, bulkheads and "false" keel To start the build, first I have to number all the bulkhead parts and also the false keel. Preperation is everything they say... After numbering the parts, It's time to release them from their imprisonment! To clean up the parts, I use a 80grid sandpaper to sand off the burn of the laser. It's time to try a dry-fit of the parts. And I was very impressed with the overall fit of the parts. It didn't need to much adjustment at all and all fitted nicely. After this I will glue the parts into place, but that will be for the next update. The log and build has started and I hope you guys will follow me allong the way. See yah! Peter
  23. very very very well done sir!!! It's a hard task to do and you nailed it! respect!!
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