justsayrow
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justsayrow got a reaction from popeye the sailor in SS Edmund Fitzgerald by BenF89 - Iron Shipwrights - 1:350 scale - PLASTIC - with Photo Etch Details
Ben, great log. I will keep tabs on this one.
I'm a Michigan NA&ME grad so the Fitz is near and dear to me.
Andy's (reference Jan's post above) screen name is realworkingsailor, though as of last I knew he crossed the brow and is working in the office.
A fellow alum of yours, Pete Jaquith, has several build log on here. His work is simply fantastic. Highly recommend doing a search for his work - he brings his real world shipbuilding experience to bear in miniature. Very cool stuff.
R/
Jerry
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justsayrow got a reaction from popeye the sailor in SD-14 Cargo ship by Kevin - SD-14 Model Company - 1/70 - CARD - middle section
A ship manager I worked with liked to say it's a 3D business: Dirty, Difficult and Dangerous.
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justsayrow got a reaction from CDR_Ret in Newsboy 1854 by Pete Jaquith - Model Shipways - Brigantine
Pete and I were at the same shipyard in San Diego (he recruited at my college and then also interviewed me at the yard) - he's a smart guy so I won't surprised me when admits to building full scale then hitting it with the Shrink-Ray he invented.
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justsayrow got a reaction from Nirvana in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by gjdale - FINISHED -Dumas - 1:8 Scale - RADIO
Grant,
Far and away my favorite kit to build! You are tackling my big regret from my build: the gauges.
Good luck!
Jerry
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justsayrow reacted to JPett in Where can I get TINY letters for my ship?
Ahoy Brenticus
I thought I would post a pic to help you out
if you use quality transfers, follow the instructions, you will find that they are very easy to use , provide a scale "raised" appearance and look great. You can also clear coat them too as they are pretty resilient and "yes" they come in gold.
These letters are only 5/64" high and 11 letters looks to be 34/32" across
This took me about a half an hour and was my first take. I might just be done
Well after I hit them with a few coats of some WOP and shave off a 16" on the right.
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justsayrow reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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justsayrow reacted to Tigersteve in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Precision is the word you are looking for. Exciting to see this build take place.
Steve
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justsayrow reacted to hornet in Need tips on deadeyes rigging
I usually knock up a few of these deadeye holders or resize ones I have used on past builds. They are made from tie wire which is cut to the appropriate length. The ends are then bent and silver soldered together so as to hold two of the holes in the deadeye on either end - you could probably twist the wire instead of soldering it. Mount the lower deadeyes on the channels/strops then fit the wire to them ensuring the length of each is the same. You can then proceed to adjust your shrouds/top deadeyes to the appropriate length.
Cheers
Steve
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justsayrow reacted to mtdoramike in Need tips on deadeyes rigging
I use a piece of wire shaped like an elongated "U" which I would use to keep the proper spacing between the lower and upper deadeyes. It's a pain for sure, but you have to like a challenge to get through it and on to the next task.
PS: I might also add here that most people try and make the shrouds too tight. They don't need to be as tight as a banjo string, just taught. I know this because I have done it myself and if you hate doing it once, try having to do it twice because you put too much pressure on one side or the other and caused the misalignment of the main mast compared to the others.
mike
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justsayrow reacted to Jim Lad in What knot was used to secure the anchor to the cable in the 18th century period
Back in the 18th century the heavy anchors were secured by an 'anchor clinch' as illustrated below.
John
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justsayrow reacted to md1400cs in How much are you willing to pay
Yes IT IS relative indeed.
$1000/3 - so $330 per year so far. So $27.00 per month is your cost so far after three years. Let's say that you spend 40 hours a month on the project; Your build hobby is costing you .69 cents per hour. Yup that beats bowling indeed ha ha
However - YES the upfront costs are very high AND one needs to add tools and so on into this mix. That said this hobby is so satisfying that IMHO it's all worth it. And yes the Admiral needs to be -- well not too informed indeed.
Cheers,
PS: http://seagifts.com/hmspewomoshk.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=18283950120
your cost just dropped to .35 cents an hour (;-)
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justsayrow reacted to jbshan in What is the most EPIC kit available???
One gent took a stock kit of a destroyer (USS Kidd, I believe) and turned it into a multiple blue-winning model by adding features and detail. That's pretty epic.
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justsayrow reacted to dafi in Planking Separation Over Time
See, that is why I like Plastic ;-)
XXXDAn
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justsayrow reacted to ChadB in Triton Cross Section by ChadB (Chach_86) - FINISHED
Back before the "Great Crash" of MSW I had built the Triton cross section. I had a pretty robust build log to go along with it where I detailed just about every little step of my build. As it turns out, a friend of mine had actually saved about 95% of it and it has been sitting on my hard drive for quite some time. I haven't been on here much at all the last couple years but I saw my wood list made it's way on here and has hopefully helped a few people. It got me thinking that I would be good to get the build log out there to help others, also. I am going to try to start parsing it out in posts over time starting from the beginning going step by step, but I also have no problem giving out the .xps file to anyone currently building who doesn't want to wait (just be warned it is 180 pages long and includes a lot of fluff you would have to wade through!).
-Chad
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justsayrow reacted to Chuck in pick first build again...
The longboat is not a beginner kit. Keep that in mind. Its rated as intermediate but I would consider no good for beginners. Dont let the price fool you. Less expensive doesnt equate to easy. Just smaller. I would say that planking the smaller vessels like the lonboat is in fact advanced rather than intermediate.
Chuck
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justsayrow reacted to rvchima in USS Arleigh Burke by rvchima - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1/16" scale - guided missile destroyer
And She's Complete - 89 days, 210 hours
Actually she's been complete except for the base since Dec. 5. Since my last post I added a lot of railings, a little rigging, and the rub-on transfers.
You can see some of the railings here.
The rigging is done with extremely fine metallic thread. There's no place to attach it, so it's just glued to the top of the yards and painted over with Haze Gray.
I expected decals but the kit came with rub-on transfers. You position them on the model and rub HARD with a blunt dowel. In fact I had to rub so hard that the solid hull was dented under the waterline numbers. The kit had multiple copies of the numbers which was lucky because several of them were ruined by the rubbing.
I used some nice quarter-sawn white oak for the base, and tapered the edges to resemble the angled sides of the ship. I ordered a bottomless plexiglass case just an inch bigger than the model on all sides. When I get the case I'll cut the bottom to fit and glue it up. So there's one more picture to follow.
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justsayrow reacted to Ponto in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
I'm out in the hallway peeking thru the door often and enjoying this build... and I am intrigued by the photo etch parts and the skills needed to work with such tiny pieces!!! ....what puzzles me is how does one access all the nooks and crannies when it comes time to paint the vessel ?
JP
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justsayrow reacted to gjdale in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by gjdale - FINISHED -Dumas - 1:8 Scale - RADIO
Thanks again for all the kind comments and all of the "likes".
Another mini-update.......
After a further three coats of clear finish, with wet-sanding between coats using 1200 grit paper, I think we are done with the spray-gun at last. I’m quite pleased with the way that it has come up, although the camera can be a little unkind. It looks better to the naked eye! It still needs several hours’ worth of polishing before it’s really done, but here are a few glam shots by way of update.
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justsayrow reacted to robnbill in Workshop Advice
Congrats. If possible, I would also get some 220/240V circuits at least run to the shop space. If you decide to get a full size Table Saw or other full size tools, having a 240 circuit accessible without significant rewiring makes your job a great deal easier. I would also suggest having a sub-panel put into the shop for those circuits int eh shop. It makes resetting a circuit a lot easier than having to run to another part of the house to reset it. For those areas you will be installing benches, having 110v outlets above the bench level is a great option for plugging hand tools in without having to get on your knees digging around under the bench.
Also, there are a number of great options now in LED lighting. You might want to look at some of those options.
The cool thing about a new workshop is envisioning all the great projects to be built there!
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justsayrow reacted to rvchima in USS Arleigh Burke by rvchima - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1/16" scale - guided missile destroyer
Anchors Aweigh
Way back on 10 September I complained about having to make my own hawse pipe out of epoxy putty. I sure wish that I had realized then that the piece had to be thin enough to fit inside the narrow anchor flukes! Thank goodness for my Proxxon pen sander. I was able to remove about 1.5 mm from each side while it was still attached to the bow.
The anchor chains seemed to be made of copper. The instructions said to paint them black, but I think that the links in the chain are smaller than paint molecules, so I used a black patina made for stained glass. That worked well.
The chains disappear into cast-metal chain pipe covers. I sure wish I had realized that they should have holes in them for the chain before I installed them! Instead I butt-glued the chain to the ends.
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justsayrow reacted to rvchima in USS Arleigh Burke by rvchima - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1/16" scale - guided missile destroyer
Haze Gray but not Underway Yet - 76 days, 194 hours
Since my last post I've almost completed the Arleigh Burke except for hundreds of little railings. Here's what she looks like now.
Decal Envy
The kit came with a paper flag and a set of decals for the ship's numbering, but surprisingly it did not include an ARLEIGH BURKE decal for the stern. Instead it had a laser-cut self-adhesive mask for painting the lettering, and several sets of photo-etched brass letters. I tried the mask first, but it was impossible to remove the body of the "A" while leaving the little triangle in the center. I tried the brass letters second, but it was impossible to glue them in line without getting glue on the letters or scratching the paint off of them. Finally I printed my own decals on Papilio Inkjet Clear Waterslide decal paper. Yeah, you can see the border but that's the least of my imperfections.
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justsayrow reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Before I do a breakdown on my next piece, I have spent several days working on the Main tower bridge rangefinder. Without going into the kit instructions, the reference has it looking like this;
The Pontos instructions give you this the front hatches are added but not in the instructions and the metal walkways are included in the kit, as is a handrail which looks no where as natural as the rails I added.
So, building it up and adding some extras, such as individual stanchions and a few extra hatches it comes up quite nicely.
The main gun control tower goes on top of this and I will do a little tutorial if you wish?
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justsayrow reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
In this instance its Windsor and Newton Galleria acrylic paint. Yes it is thinned down quite a bit and put on in many layers like watercolor. The color is Crimson straight out of the tube. I have used dozens of coats of very thin washes until it becomes opaque. That helps me keep the paint very flat and without paint brush stokes using a round brush.
Chuck
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