justsayrow

Nice repairs to those beautiful windows, Rod. Your Arleigh Burke is coming along nicely, too. Been lurking on your build here for a while. Modern USN are interesting.

Hello all
I have only done one test so far, it is my intention to do some extensive testing across a range of Temperatures and times with different thicknesses and types of wood. as soon as that is complete I will publish a chart of my findings here.
 
Michael

Greetings all
Well I am back after being absent for about fourteen months to restart my Diana. Firstly I would like to thank the members who have kept in touch over that period. Ok I have at last completed the planking of the gun deck, and after a coat or two of clear matt varnish and repair of two bulkhead uprights, I shall fit the inner wall of the gun deck. But sadly I have forgotten to reduce the keel thickness at the stern!!!! This is one thing you often advise builders to do before any frame assembly as you all know. So that needs to be also done. I have added a few photos of the deck planking which is decent apart from bleeding on some plank ends, so I will need to get that sorted before any future deck planking. I have added some photos showing a former for the want of another name,which a friend made for me for producing the butt planks. The planks which were designed by Ray on hes Diana gun deck, were he shows how he produced them and also gave the dimensions. As you can see the shape of the plank is milled into face of the plate to a depth of approx 0.50 mm and strip is clamped in between the two plates. The strip is then cut away with a craft knife and Bobs your Uncle. So if any of you members are building the Diana or intending to purchase the kit, let me know when you reach the planking stage, and I will post it to you and you can also pass it on yourself. Anyway it's good to be back . Here's a few photos thanks a lot. DAVID

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

Please welcome and thank Wood Project Source for becoming a sponsor of Model Ship World.  WPS supplies milled wood sheets and strips along with carving blocks for many hobbies.  Their specialty is Alaskan Yellow Cedar Sheets and Carving Blocks.  Other species like Yellow Heart, Purple heart, Butternut, Applewood, Dogwood and Mahogany are soon to follow.

 

They also carry the staples for our hobby like Boxwood, Swiss Pear and others.  They are just finishing up their new website so please have some patience with them as they continue adding more wood species and products to their online store.  They have many more than I listed.

 

I have personally bought from them many times as they are close by and I gotten to know the owner.  I have bought some Yellow Cedar and Boxwood from them and will say that I am very happy with the quality of the wood.  They have fantastic prices and they are the lowest I have seen for some wood sheets.

 

Please join me in welcoming them as a sponsor of MSW.

 

Visit their site and check them out.  I am grateful they decided to become a sponsor and didnt hesitate after I asked them about it.

 

www.woodprojectsource.com

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

Thanks for all the kind comments and the likes. It's been a while since I updated this, but not because I haven't been making progress - it's just that this is a slow process!  Anyway, here is a little update of sorts.
 
Fibreglassing the Hull
 
Having declared a win with the trials, I commenced the process of glassing the entire boat. Although the instructions say not to bother glassing the bottom of the boat as it is plastic (Sintra), I decided to take the precaution of glassing it anyway.
 
This is a slow process overall as it is necessary to work on only one surface at a time and to allow it to fully cure before proceeding to the next surface. Here is a couple of in-progress shots of the first phase – applying the glass mat with the first layer of epoxy resin. It followed much the same path as the trials (happily).
 
I began with the bottom, cutting the glass mat slightly larger than required. In hindsight, I could have trimmed this much closer prior to applying the epoxy. The resin was applied by pouring a small amount into the centre and spreading outwards with a rubber squeegee. Care needs to be taken to avoid any drips landing on the overhang and sticking itself to the hull sides – don’t ask how I know this!
 

 
The sides were next:
 

 
Here is a close-up of the side, showing just how much of the weave of the cloth is visible at this stage. Remember, trust the process!
 

 
Once the epoxy had cured (overnight) the cloth was trimmed back using a single edged razor blade:
 

 
It’s not clear in the above photo, but I found that with a little caution I could run the blade right along the adjoining edge, making final clean up with some 80 and 120 grit sandpaper that much easier.
 
Speaking of clean-up, this next shot shows the side after it had cured, been trimmed and lightly sanded with both 80 and 120 grit. The purpose here is to remove any high spots and create a smooth (but toothed) surface for the next layer of resin.
 

 
As you can see in this photo, it looks pretty ugly. There were quite a few “blemishes” where the cloth may have lifted slightly during the initial coating. Remember, trust the process!
 
Once both sides had been done, the transom followed, and finally the deck. All went pretty much as shown in the above photos, though perhaps with fewer flaws as I gained experience.
 
Then it was time to apply the second layer of epoxy. Again, it was a case of doing just one surface at a time, keeping that surface as horizontal as possible to allow the resin to level and not overflow the edges.  As per the trials, the second coat was applied with a stiff brush, care being taken to ensure that the “oopses” from the first phase were filled in by firmly stippling the area with the brush until the oops disappeared.
 
I didn’t take any “in-progress” shots of individual panels, but here are a few on completion of the second coat of epoxy. At this stage, the epoxy has fully cured but no clean up sanding has been done. This will be carried out prior to applying the third coat of resin. However, I thought it useful to post these overall pics to show just what a difference the second coat of epoxy makes. It has almost entirely filled in the weave of the cloth and the “shiny-ness” gives an indication of what is to come.
 

 

 

 
It’s very difficult to take pictures of a highly polished and reflective surface, but I think you can get the idea. And yes, you can see a slightly uneven “wavy” effect on the surface – this will come out with the between coats sanding. Hopefully, one more coat of resin will be sufficient prior to commencing the finish coats of spar varnish. If not, we’ll keep going until it is!
 
It will be a little while before the next update as I'm travelling for work over the next couple of weeks.
 

I agree with Chuck..... fine grit wet or dry.

Hi Alex,
 
That deck treatment is a relatively new one (late 70's/early 80s (at least in the RAN - may have been a tad earlier in USN/RN) and is a specialised coating that not only serves as a metal deck preservative but also a non-slip surface for the deck.
 
Back in the early 70s the RAN was still using deck-tread (sandpaper strips/patches glued to a painted deck surface) but in the late 70s started using a new treatment which had sand mixed into it; this then developed into this treatment which in the RAN was called DEVRON (a brand name I think) - I don't know where it was initially developed or by which company.  It is applied direct onto a specially prepared deck, and if not abused will last several years.  It is a fairly thick coating and very hard on the knees/skin.
 
Some ships have this applied to cover the whole deck surface while other ships had it covering the majority of the deck but the last few inches near screens/bulkheads and the side were normal paint.
 
I am not well versed in paint application techniques for models, but I would think that applying a slightly thicker paint and then using a dry brush in a random pattern may provide that look?  That said, it would also depend on the scale as down at say 1:350 or so, the scale would not show this?  You might also have to research the ship and see if you can find photos that show the paint pattern (full coverage or with paint verges) for the ship in the period you are modelling?
 
I am quite interested in this as I am building a 1:350 of HMAS Vampire circa 1973/76 and this is the period this paint started appearing.  In Vampire at this time, the main deck was DEVRON (with verges) while the superstructure decks were still painted and used deck tread.  She did not get fullly covered DEVRON decks until the very late 70s.
 
I hope this helps? 
 
cheers
 
Pat

So it has been some time.... to say the least......
 
I've got some time on my hands again, and things are starting to move once more in the old shipyard. Things have been pretty quiet since the spring...between work and the awesome summer weather (which means spending absolutely as much time as possible up at the lake), it has not been conducive to hiding inside making saw dust. I was busy earlier in the spring purchasing some "upgrades" to the basic Caldercraft Kit. Not finished shopping by a long shot, but at the end of the day, the cost of all this will basically be equal or better than the cost of an entirely new kit ( )... but it will be worth it.
 
So far, I've bought new second planking from Crown Timberyard. Some nice castello boxwood, which I plan to use for the wales and upper works. Below the wales, I will stick to the splintery walnut from the kit. It's actually not all bad once it's cleaned up, but most of it will be hidden by the copper plating anyway, so it's only the top smudge that will be visible.
 
All the blocks will be replaced by those supplied by Syren, far nicer in appearance. Although rigging is a long way off yet, I've already received a good supply to start. There are a few other fittings, such as cleats and gratings that I will also replace, and already have the replacements in hand.
 
The other big thing I'm going to change are the guns. As you can see from the photos below, the Caldercraft cannons are, to my eye, a tad on the chunky side. The muzzle looks wonky and the button on the cascabel is way oversized. The guns Chuck supplies are far nicer and much finer looking. I will also replace the cast white-metal carronades, but that's for another time.
 
Other items on my shopping list:
-Replace kit supplied copper with Amati copper sheeting
-Try to source better looking PE parts for the chain plates (Would like something along the lines as the PE supplied with the USF Confederacy)
-All kit supplied rigging line to be replaced with Syren rigging line
-Stern windows and other PE fittings to be specially examined and dealt with as required (I am considering buying the PE set for the Agamemnon, more so if it comes with PE chain plates and not the formed wire nonsense of the Diana kit).
 
I'm on the fence about the gun carriages. I may yet replace them, but we'll see how things go.....
 
So now for the update part..... in order to break up some of the tedium of cutting and lining gunports, I decided to start some of the second planking on the starboard side (since the ports have been all cut and lined on that side anyway). I'd already planking the lower counter back in the spring, so it was a matter of measuring off where the wale is supposed to be and getting going with the planking. I've started off with the black strake, just above the wales. The instructions call for these thicker strakes to be created by doubling the layers of planking. Fairly common for these types of kits, but given my experience with the Pegasus, it can be tricky to get the second layer to lie properly, and when working with CA, do-overs are not easy. To make things easier for myself, I've laid down the black strake in one 1.5mm layer, rather than a 1mm with a 0.5mm layer on top (as described in the instructions). When the rest of the 1mm thick planking is installed, this will leave a proud edge for the second layer of the wales to butt neatly against. I will attempt to do the second layer of the wales in anchor stock pattern, so having a hard edge will go a long way to keeping things neatly in line.
 
Anyway, it will all make sense later on..... maybe....
 
 
Hrm.... now that I look at it, I may slap some black paint on the stem before I get further along with the second planking....
 
Andy
 
 

and happy ending....
   

Good evening everyone, LOL it is me the one who used to post everyday, until  we got a dog, now what used to be spare time is shared time, but would not have it any other way

 
on the SD14 having completed the tank top, the three Bulkheads for the deep cargo space then went in, these are now being firmed up as the big cross section frames go in, enjoying the build, but want to go back to the Victory soon 
 
non of the top box girders are fixed yet hence looking a little squiffy

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

Les, I build these things for a living and wouldn't dream of taking on a job that didn't allow me enough time to factor in 'burnout breaks'. I never work on any project continuously. I always take a break at regular intervals and go and do something else. 
 
I learned this a long time ago at art school so don't worry, you are not alone!
 
Dan.

Yup, take a mental health break, as others have suggested. When you do go back to it, just look at a few small steps at a time and don't allow yourself to be overwhelmed by the apparent immensity of the whole project,

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

I build in bursts.
 
4-6 months I'm at the bench up to 10 hours a week. And then I can't drag myself into the model room. It passes. Not sure the trigger but it passes.
 
Then I get back at it!

Don,
A/L's Swift is the model that planking really "clicked" for me. The lines are straight forward with a little challenge on the stern. It's also a fairly quick rig so the sense of accomplishment timeline is short. And it's a nice scale so you can scratch build a lot of details if you choose.
 
Plenty of build logs here for guidance.
 
Good luck!

Don,
A/L's Swift is the model that planking really "clicked" for me. The lines are straight forward with a little challenge on the stern. It's also a fairly quick rig so the sense of accomplishment timeline is short. And it's a nice scale so you can scratch build a lot of details if you choose.
 
Plenty of build logs here for guidance.
 
Good luck!