Bob Cleek

To this sage advice I would add that the tolerances operative in working with epoxy, i.e. the proportion of resin to hardener and temperature and humidity, become increasingly critical as the amount of epoxy mixed gets smaller. With the relatively small amounts of epoxy generally mixed for modeling purposes, the amount of tolerable error becomes smaller as the amount mixed becomes smaller. Measuring small batches has less margin of error. Additionally, the use of measuring pumps is advised, but a single stroke of the pumps, the minimum amount measured by the pump is more than is often needed, which contributes to the waste of an expensive material. For mixing "dime sized" or "quarter sized" amounts of epoxy for modeling purposes, one would be well advised to use graduated hypodermic syringes or a suitably sensitive scale. 

The two-pint kit from Smith's directly is $68.00. Yes, that may be costly, but you get what you pay for. For a much less expensive sealer at $21 a quart, shellac works very well. Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Alcohol-Based Shellac (1-Quart) in the Sealers department at Lowes.com
 
Others sell "thinned" epoxy for "rot repair" products, but Smith's CPES(tm) was the first and claims to have a unique recipe. It's been around for almost fifty years now and it seems yet to have been equaled by imitators.

I have used several types of epoxy for decades and have never had a curing problem because I am meticulous about getting the mixture exactly as the manufacturer recommends.
 
I have used a thin two part epoxy "paint" that model airplane builders use to seal the wood on motor mounts so fuel cannot soak into it. It has the consistency of house paint (thicker than water but thinner than honey. I seal the interior of planked hulls with it. It penetrates into the wood, between individual planks, and between planks and bulkheads. This prevents cracks from appearing between planks years after the model was built. It makes a very solid hull!
 
You can also find epoxy paints. We used them in the magazines on a ship I was on. They are similar to the epoxy sealer mentioned above.
 
I also advise caution about thinning epoxies. The mixture ratio is critical for a good cure. Rather than try to thin a thick epoxy it would be much better to get the epoxy sealer or the model airplane epoxy.

I haven’t bought any for a long time but I suspect that West System Resin, Hardener, and pumps would cost about $60-70 too.
 
Just checked- 1qt West Sysrem 105 Resin, 7oz 205 hardener, and a pair of pumps:  $86.60 on Amazon.

I'd use a brass brush.  Stainless steel might be too hard. Ferric chloride will eventually dull the teeth . 
 
But before using a file, try rubbing some chalk on the file.  It might prevent clogging the teeth with metal chips and make it easier to clean with the brass brush.

The two-pint kit from Smith's directly is $68.00. Yes, that may be costly, but you get what you pay for. For a much less expensive sealer at $21 a quart, shellac works very well. Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Alcohol-Based Shellac (1-Quart) in the Sealers department at Lowes.com
 
Others sell "thinned" epoxy for "rot repair" products, but Smith's CPES(tm) was the first and claims to have a unique recipe. It's been around for almost fifty years now and it seems yet to have been equaled by imitators.

I have used a lot of epoxies over the years and, as others here before me, would not advise thinning epoxy. They aren't all the same, chemically speaking, and you've got to carefully experiment when deviating from the manufacturer's directions. There's nothing worse than a partially-cured coat of epoxy resin.
 
For the application described here (i.e. we're not talking about epoxy and glass cloth sheathing,) I would suggest using a product called Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, also known in the trade as "CPES." . This an epoxy sealer, not an epoxy adhesive base as are the products mentioned here above. This is an epoxy sealer carried in a volatile solvent. It mixes easily with a 1:1 ratio of "Part A" and "Part B" and is sold in kits as small as a quart of each part. It's not cheap, but has a long shelf life. A (2 part) "quart kit" would serve to coat many models inside and out. It has the consistency of water and penetrates the wood surface easily. It soaks in and does not build up on the surface. It has some flexibility to it when cured which resists cracking when the wood expands and contracts. (No epoxy resin is moisture proof, actually.) It cleans up easily before curing with acetone or vinegar. Oil based or acrylic paint and varnish may be applied over it. It sands reasonably well. It can be purchased at most chandleries or from the manufacturer. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (smithandcompany.org) (It's also repackaged at a higher price by "the Rot Doctor." CPES™ - The Rot Doctor )
 
Or... you can also consider applying a generous coat of thin shellac ("two pound cut" out of the can.) Shellac is probably one of the most effective moisture barriers that exists. It's also completely safe to use and is thinned with alcohol. ( It's safe enough to eat. "Food grade" shellac is used to impart a shine to apples and jelly beans.) Shellac also soaks into the wood well and does not obscure detail so long as you don't put too many coats on. I dries very quickly and any paint or varnish can be applied over it without any problems. It's also a lot less expensive than epoxy of any type.

I have used a lot of epoxies over the years and, as others here before me, would not advise thinning epoxy. They aren't all the same, chemically speaking, and you've got to carefully experiment when deviating from the manufacturer's directions. There's nothing worse than a partially-cured coat of epoxy resin.
 
For the application described here (i.e. we're not talking about epoxy and glass cloth sheathing,) I would suggest using a product called Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, also known in the trade as "CPES." . This an epoxy sealer, not an epoxy adhesive base as are the products mentioned here above. This is an epoxy sealer carried in a volatile solvent. It mixes easily with a 1:1 ratio of "Part A" and "Part B" and is sold in kits as small as a quart of each part. It's not cheap, but has a long shelf life. A (2 part) "quart kit" would serve to coat many models inside and out. It has the consistency of water and penetrates the wood surface easily. It soaks in and does not build up on the surface. It has some flexibility to it when cured which resists cracking when the wood expands and contracts. (No epoxy resin is moisture proof, actually.) It cleans up easily before curing with acetone or vinegar. Oil based or acrylic paint and varnish may be applied over it. It sands reasonably well. It can be purchased at most chandleries or from the manufacturer. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (smithandcompany.org) (It's also repackaged at a higher price by "the Rot Doctor." CPES™ - The Rot Doctor )
 
Or... you can also consider applying a generous coat of thin shellac ("two pound cut" out of the can.) Shellac is probably one of the most effective moisture barriers that exists. It's also completely safe to use and is thinned with alcohol. ( It's safe enough to eat. "Food grade" shellac is used to impart a shine to apples and jelly beans.) Shellac also soaks into the wood well and does not obscure detail so long as you don't put too many coats on. I dries very quickly and any paint or varnish can be applied over it without any problems. It's also a lot less expensive than epoxy of any type.

I have used a lot of epoxies over the years and, as others here before me, would not advise thinning epoxy. They aren't all the same, chemically speaking, and you've got to carefully experiment when deviating from the manufacturer's directions. There's nothing worse than a partially-cured coat of epoxy resin.
 
For the application described here (i.e. we're not talking about epoxy and glass cloth sheathing,) I would suggest using a product called Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, also known in the trade as "CPES." . This an epoxy sealer, not an epoxy adhesive base as are the products mentioned here above. This is an epoxy sealer carried in a volatile solvent. It mixes easily with a 1:1 ratio of "Part A" and "Part B" and is sold in kits as small as a quart of each part. It's not cheap, but has a long shelf life. A (2 part) "quart kit" would serve to coat many models inside and out. It has the consistency of water and penetrates the wood surface easily. It soaks in and does not build up on the surface. It has some flexibility to it when cured which resists cracking when the wood expands and contracts. (No epoxy resin is moisture proof, actually.) It cleans up easily before curing with acetone or vinegar. Oil based or acrylic paint and varnish may be applied over it. It sands reasonably well. It can be purchased at most chandleries or from the manufacturer. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (smithandcompany.org) (It's also repackaged at a higher price by "the Rot Doctor." CPES™ - The Rot Doctor )
 
Or... you can also consider applying a generous coat of thin shellac ("two pound cut" out of the can.) Shellac is probably one of the most effective moisture barriers that exists. It's also completely safe to use and is thinned with alcohol. ( It's safe enough to eat. "Food grade" shellac is used to impart a shine to apples and jelly beans.) Shellac also soaks into the wood well and does not obscure detail so long as you don't put too many coats on. I dries very quickly and any paint or varnish can be applied over it without any problems. It's also a lot less expensive than epoxy of any type.

I have used a lot of epoxies over the years and, as others here before me, would not advise thinning epoxy. They aren't all the same, chemically speaking, and you've got to carefully experiment when deviating from the manufacturer's directions. There's nothing worse than a partially-cured coat of epoxy resin.
 
For the application described here (i.e. we're not talking about epoxy and glass cloth sheathing,) I would suggest using a product called Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, also known in the trade as "CPES." . This an epoxy sealer, not an epoxy adhesive base as are the products mentioned here above. This is an epoxy sealer carried in a volatile solvent. It mixes easily with a 1:1 ratio of "Part A" and "Part B" and is sold in kits as small as a quart of each part. It's not cheap, but has a long shelf life. A (2 part) "quart kit" would serve to coat many models inside and out. It has the consistency of water and penetrates the wood surface easily. It soaks in and does not build up on the surface. It has some flexibility to it when cured which resists cracking when the wood expands and contracts. (No epoxy resin is moisture proof, actually.) It cleans up easily before curing with acetone or vinegar. Oil based or acrylic paint and varnish may be applied over it. It sands reasonably well. It can be purchased at most chandleries or from the manufacturer. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (smithandcompany.org) (It's also repackaged at a higher price by "the Rot Doctor." CPES™ - The Rot Doctor )
 
Or... you can also consider applying a generous coat of thin shellac ("two pound cut" out of the can.) Shellac is probably one of the most effective moisture barriers that exists. It's also completely safe to use and is thinned with alcohol. ( It's safe enough to eat. "Food grade" shellac is used to impart a shine to apples and jelly beans.) Shellac also soaks into the wood well and does not obscure detail so long as you don't put too many coats on. I dries very quickly and any paint or varnish can be applied over it without any problems. It's also a lot less expensive than epoxy of any type.

I have used a lot of epoxies over the years and, as others here before me, would not advise thinning epoxy. They aren't all the same, chemically speaking, and you've got to carefully experiment when deviating from the manufacturer's directions. There's nothing worse than a partially-cured coat of epoxy resin.
 
For the application described here (i.e. we're not talking about epoxy and glass cloth sheathing,) I would suggest using a product called Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, also known in the trade as "CPES." . This an epoxy sealer, not an epoxy adhesive base as are the products mentioned here above. This is an epoxy sealer carried in a volatile solvent. It mixes easily with a 1:1 ratio of "Part A" and "Part B" and is sold in kits as small as a quart of each part. It's not cheap, but has a long shelf life. A (2 part) "quart kit" would serve to coat many models inside and out. It has the consistency of water and penetrates the wood surface easily. It soaks in and does not build up on the surface. It has some flexibility to it when cured which resists cracking when the wood expands and contracts. (No epoxy resin is moisture proof, actually.) It cleans up easily before curing with acetone or vinegar. Oil based or acrylic paint and varnish may be applied over it. It sands reasonably well. It can be purchased at most chandleries or from the manufacturer. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (smithandcompany.org) (It's also repackaged at a higher price by "the Rot Doctor." CPES™ - The Rot Doctor )
 
Or... you can also consider applying a generous coat of thin shellac ("two pound cut" out of the can.) Shellac is probably one of the most effective moisture barriers that exists. It's also completely safe to use and is thinned with alcohol. ( It's safe enough to eat. "Food grade" shellac is used to impart a shine to apples and jelly beans.) Shellac also soaks into the wood well and does not obscure detail so long as you don't put too many coats on. I dries very quickly and any paint or varnish can be applied over it without any problems. It's also a lot less expensive than epoxy of any type.

I know virtually nothing about RC models but I do have experience working with Epoxy.  Epoxy can be tricky to use.  It must be mixed in accordance with the specific resin/hardness ratios specified by the manufacturer.  Different manufacturers use vastly different mixing ratios.  If you add hardener beyond the specified ratio to “speed things up,” the mix will not cure, and you’ll wind up with a sticky mess.  Since chemical formulations between brands vary,  under no circumstances would I suggest trying to thin the resin.  Use it as it comes from the can!
 
Epoxy cures with an Exothermic reaction- it gives off heat.  A large batch can get quite hot.  A thinner can effect this too in an unpredictable way.
 
Like most other things, you get what you pay for.  The marine brands; West, System Three, etc IMHO are worth spending money on compared to the hardware store bands.  West System requires a 5:1 resin to hardener ratio that can be hard to measure correctly.  West System sells calibrated pumps that are foolproof or you can weigh out the materials with a scale.  Other brands, such as I believe System Three feature an easier 1:1 ratio.
 
Epoxies now are available in a bewildering array, all with different specialized features.  You can surely find a low viscosity one.  OR. At least one high quality brand- West System is “modular.”  The basic Resin/hardener mix results in a thin mix; about like maple syrup.  West then sells different additives that allow the mix to be thickened to the consistency of peanut butter.
 
It’s your model to finish as you see fit, but working with Epoxy you have one and only one chance to get things right.  Once you have coated your model, the outcome is in the hands of the Epoxy Gods.  If the mix does not cure, you will wind up with a difficult if not impossible to remove sticky mess.
 
Roger

OK,  if you have not started, go back to this initial step it replace these components with something that is waterproof.  I would skip any plywood replacement and go straight to hardwood.
For the price and ease of cutting Yellow Poplar is difficult to better.  You can even use thicker material for the molds and center spine.  The outside keel can be a separate timber if the spine is thicker than the actual keel.
 
Valente Lumber in Averill Park looks to have what you would need, and probably can or knows who can do the necessary resawing.  It looks like there is a possible valuable resource there.  There is probably a local woodworkers club in your region and those guys are good at being helpful - especially to a weird duck like a ship model builder.
 
I suspect that Roger's suggestions bear very close attention.

I realize the inquiry was about a "dedicated spindle sander, not a drill press or moto tool," but I have to say that IMHO a "dedicated spindle sander" for modeling is really one of those things (if such truly exists) that is overkill. I agree with Jager that there's no point to oscillation. This is primarily because nobody is going to be hogging off large blocks of wood when modeling and, if one operates the sander properly, there should be little or no wood clogging or undue abrasive wear. (I.e.: let the sander do the work and don't press the work hard into the drum.)
 
I have used a Delta drum sanding kit designed for use in a drill press for years and have been entirely satisfied with it. (Again, the Morse taper of a drill press chuck isn't designed to take lateral force, but this isn't a problem if little lateral force is applied with the work piece, as is proper.) A used bench top drill press is easy to come by on Craigslist or a garage sale for relatively little money and if used as a dedicated drum sander, it can always double as a back-up drill press. If you already have a drill press, so much the better.
 
Using hole saws, I have cut a selection of holes to match the size of the drums from 1" plywood. I've also cut a couple extra with holes to fit the largest drum. By stacking up these "zero clearance inserts" (the big ones beneath the smaller holed ones, as needed) clamped to the table and adjusting the quill and setting that as convenient, I can always move the abrasive area exposed as needed to always have an unworn section of abrasive presented to the work piece. A crepe rubber abrasive cleaner used as needed ensures that the abrasive doesn't wear prematurely.
 
I have a plastic tube that fits my shop-vac hose and has a rare earth magnet epoxied onto it.  This tube holds the hose beneath the center of the drill press table top and pretty much sucks most of the sawdust away from down below.
 
It's really no more trouble than chucking a drill bit into the chuck and sticking my shop-vac hose to the bottom of the drill press table, so my drill press not being "dedicated" to sanding has never been an issue for me.
 
It's a stock Home Despot item for forty bucks: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Sanding-Drum-Set-25-Pieces-17-940/203293688  Harbor Freight has them for twenty-seven bucks less the abrasive sleeves: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-quick-change-sanding-drum-set-35455.html  Horror Fright has the crepe abrasive cleaners for eight bucks, too: https://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-belt-cleaner-30766.html
 
Just sayin'. Your mileage may vary.
 

 

Of course. What I said was that an inshore craft had a greater need for a compass. I didn't mean to imply that a sea-going vessel didn't need one at all!  I suppose the better way to have put it was that every vessel needs a compass (okay, except maybe canoes and dinghies.) A vessel would have the same problem at night with an overcast sky as it would in a thick daytime fog. You can't steer a vessel with any efficiency without a reference point, which the compass provides if you can't see the shore or the stars. While a binnacle may be moveable and not seen on every contemporary model, the helmsman would have a hard time steering a straight line without one if they had no point of reference.

Before GPS but Loran was in use on larger vessels, all we had was a chart, magnetic compass and a fathometer to navigate from Bellingham, Washington to SE Alaska and back with a King Salmon Season between. We used the compass and visual cues to steer by, paid close attention to the chart and water depth, verified by the fathometer, to verify where we were while running or fishing. When caught by fog, we listened for horns and followed a bottom contour chosen from the chart to find  our way in to a place to anchor. We had no Binnacle but there was a gimbaled Nautical Compass mounted which was adjusted to the magnetic field it occupied with tested and certified correction tables at hand. All forward of the wheel of the 34 foot King Salmon Troller, Cape Race,1965. Don't remember needing the correction tables, would pick a course, get on it and visually correct if necessary, we were running the Inland Passage or when fishing, had islands in sight most of the time. Did have Binnacle's, Engine Order Telegraphs, Gyro Repeaters and of course Radar, on every Navy Ship I rode, they were a Fletcher Class Destroyer; a Baltimore Class Heavy Cruiser; 3, 542 Class LSTs and some others doing my reserve time.

I can attest to this situation being hair raising.  Happened to us when we were out in our boat fishing for striped bass one Spring morning between Sandy Hook and the Verrazano Narrows Bridge.  We were out of the shipping lane that comes down the Raritan Reach so we just sat   ---- untl we heard thunder.  We pulled anchor to run for shore.  Which way???  The compass showed us our heading.  (Of course the GPS made it even easier😁)    Still a scary situation.

Bob:
Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks.
Bridgman Bob
 

Of course. What I said was that an inshore craft had a greater need for a compass. I didn't mean to imply that a sea-going vessel didn't need one at all!  I suppose the better way to have put it was that every vessel needs a compass (okay, except maybe canoes and dinghies.) A vessel would have the same problem at night with an overcast sky as it would in a thick daytime fog. You can't steer a vessel with any efficiency without a reference point, which the compass provides if you can't see the shore or the stars. While a binnacle may be moveable and not seen on every contemporary model, the helmsman would have a hard time steering a straight line without one if they had no point of reference.

If you noted in my post you quoted, I didn't speculate that they didn't have compasses, to the contrary, I suggested that they did.
I discussed the lack of binnacles, as I have not seen any on contemporary models of cutters.

Actually, based on my own experience, inshore craft have far greater need for a compass than do sea-going craft operating off-soundings most of the time. A vessel that routinely operates close to shore regularly becomes engulfed in fog. This is a circumstance that is hard to describe, but anyone who has ever had the experience can attest that it is totally disorienting. (If you are not familiar with fog, it's about like turning off the lights in a windowless room.) You have little or no sense of direction, save perhaps the wind and the set of the sea. When inshore, particularly against a lee shore, there are few things more terrifying than not knowing where the breakers, reefs, shoals, and rocks are and having no point of reference against which to steer. It is then that a compass is essential. A sea-going ship is less concerned because they aren't concerned about running into anything when several days' run off any shore.
 
I would expect compass redundancy was the order of the day. One compass for the helm, of course, which was necessary if there was to be any sense to giving the helmsman steering commands, plus a spare for the helm, and then secondary compasses used primarily by the captain, sailing master and other officers to enable them to monitor the course from their posts other than on the quarterdeck. There are actually "upside down" compasses, properly called "tell-tale compasses," designed to be mounted on the overhead above an officer's bunk so that they could immediately note the ship's course while they were off watch in their bunks. Tell-tale compasses have been commonly used in European vessels from at least the Fourteenth Century that I know of. Some were refined examples of the instrument makers' art and are highly valuable collectables today.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Actually, based on my own experience, inshore craft have far greater need for a compass than do sea-going craft operating off-soundings most of the time. A vessel that routinely operates close to shore regularly becomes engulfed in fog. This is a circumstance that is hard to describe, but anyone who has ever had the experience can attest that it is totally disorienting. (If you are not familiar with fog, it's about like turning off the lights in a windowless room.) You have little or no sense of direction, save perhaps the wind and the set of the sea. When inshore, particularly against a lee shore, there are few things more terrifying than not knowing where the breakers, reefs, shoals, and rocks are and having no point of reference against which to steer. It is then that a compass is essential. A sea-going ship is less concerned because they aren't concerned about running into anything when several days' run off any shore.
 
I would expect compass redundancy was the order of the day. One compass for the helm, of course, which was necessary if there was to be any sense to giving the helmsman steering commands, plus a spare for the helm, and then secondary compasses used primarily by the captain, sailing master and other officers to enable them to monitor the course from their posts other than on the quarterdeck. There are actually "upside down" compasses, properly called "tell-tale compasses," designed to be mounted on the overhead above an officer's bunk so that they could immediately note the ship's course while they were off watch in their bunks. Tell-tale compasses have been commonly used in European vessels from at least the Fourteenth Century that I know of. Some were refined examples of the instrument makers' art and are highly valuable collectables today.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Actually, based on my own experience, inshore craft have far greater need for a compass than do sea-going craft operating off-soundings most of the time. A vessel that routinely operates close to shore regularly becomes engulfed in fog. This is a circumstance that is hard to describe, but anyone who has ever had the experience can attest that it is totally disorienting. (If you are not familiar with fog, it's about like turning off the lights in a windowless room.) You have little or no sense of direction, save perhaps the wind and the set of the sea. When inshore, particularly against a lee shore, there are few things more terrifying than not knowing where the breakers, reefs, shoals, and rocks are and having no point of reference against which to steer. It is then that a compass is essential. A sea-going ship is less concerned because they aren't concerned about running into anything when several days' run off any shore.
 
I would expect compass redundancy was the order of the day. One compass for the helm, of course, which was necessary if there was to be any sense to giving the helmsman steering commands, plus a spare for the helm, and then secondary compasses used primarily by the captain, sailing master and other officers to enable them to monitor the course from their posts other than on the quarterdeck. There are actually "upside down" compasses, properly called "tell-tale compasses," designed to be mounted on the overhead above an officer's bunk so that they could immediately note the ship's course while they were off watch in their bunks. Tell-tale compasses have been commonly used in European vessels from at least the Fourteenth Century that I know of. Some were refined examples of the instrument makers' art and are highly valuable collectables today.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I have used several techniques to clean brass parts.  I keep a jar full of lacquer thinner on my workbench.  I use those little jars with screw lids that restaurants serve jelly in.  Baby food jars with lids would work too.  I dunk very small parts in these jars, screw the lids on and swish the jar around.  I then take the part out with tweezers and put it on a paper towel to dry.
 
I recently tried cleaning a large part with household scouring powder and hot water. I dipped a wet toothbrush in the scouring powder and scoured the part.  The part was then soaked in hot water.  This worked really well.
 
I also have a cheap crock pot for heating a solution of Sparex and water.  I have tried this approach but don’t see that it offers any advantages over the above two.
 
I would prime the part with an auto body primer or better yet a hobby primer.  The Tamiya primers seem to work well. Acrylic paints will adhere to these.
 
Roger

Right on! Truer words were never spoken.

 
Excel 55666 - Mitre Box w/ K5 Handle and Saw Blade - Midwest Model Railroad (midwestmodelrr.com)
 
This will do just fine for $17.50 and you're about $150 or 25% of the way to getting your Byrnes "Jim Saw" with the sliding miter table!
 

 
Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander
 
Come on now. You know you really want one. You know everybody eventually gets one and then wonders why it took them so long to getting around to it. You know it will pay for itself over time in savings over the cost of pre-cut strip wood and it's accurate to a thousandth of an inch. Set aside a few bucks a month and you'll be able to buy one without the purser ever missing it from the sugar jar.   
 

 
Go on! Don't be a wimp! Show some spunk! JUST DO IT!