Bob Cleek

Actually...this is quite true.
 
These are so easy to make too.  I just cut a piece of wire about an inch long...crease it back onto itself, forming a *U*.  Then grip the two ends with a plier....then using a *Hook* of the desired size(Diameter of the eye) in a pin vice, I hook the looped wire and then turn the wire, winding it, onto itself.  when the turns are tight, prior to breaking, I cut the shank to the desired length.  Then slide the pad eye off the *Hook*.
 
Easy- Peasy....
 
Rob

I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models.  Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye.
 
Rob

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

In the US, it seems the jewelers call it "electroforming' (as opposed to the similar "electroplating.") There are many tutorials about the process, most for jewelers, on YouTube. 
 
 

I gather this is your's here on sale by Charles Miller: https://www.charlesmillerltd.com/auction/lot/321-AN-IMPRESSIVE-AND-FINELY-DETAILED-148-STATIC-DISPLAY-MODEL-OF-THE-IMPERIAL-RUSSIAN-STEAM-YACHT-STANDART-ORIGINALLY-BUILT-BY-BURMEISTER--WAIN-COPENHAGEN-1895/?lot=13252&so=0&st=&sto=0&au=48&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=48&pn=7&g=1# ?

Two very fine nails with the heads filed off in a block of wood work fine too!

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

In the US, it seems the jewelers call it "electroforming' (as opposed to the similar "electroplating.") There are many tutorials about the process, most for jewelers, on YouTube. 
 
 

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

Brett - alternatively look up Gerald A Wingrove - he has written an number of books and you can find some of his work on MSW. Sadly Gerald is no longer with us. RIP.
 

Brett - this would be a good start:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Model-Building-Brass-Ken-Foran/dp/0764354949

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

Volume II of NRG’s Shop Notes, available from their online store, includes an excellent article complete with extensive color chips about old time paint colors. It was written by Eric Ronnberg a careful researcher. Although focused on the Nineteenth Century, the color chips include a number of preindustrial colors such as Red Lead, Red Oxide, Yellow Ochre.  This is one case where it’s better to have a hard copy as you are not looking at colors through a computer monitor.
 
In my opinion, this one article is worth the prices of the book.
 
Roger

For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 
 
For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!
 
 
 

 

 
 

I have found that making my own eyes and hooks means getting them the size and shape I need and using brass means I can easily solder when making up more complex assemblies with them.  This comes from my background in brass locomotive construction where handrail stanchions were required in relatively large quantities.
I use a standard pair of cheep Circles pliers (the type that operate like normal pliers not reverse pliers).  I file down one of the circular tips to a fine cone with needles files then use a flat file to make sure that there is an even, parallel flat between the two jaws of the pliers.  
I can then make quite small eyes/hooks clamping the brass wire between the flats at the point along the cone where I want the desired diameter.
In the attached image I have made 1.0mm eyes with 0.5mm hard brass wire (unsoftened wire could also be employed but I like the hardened wire).  I could go smaller using finer wire as I have done in N scale locomotive constructions....
These 1mm eyes represent 50mm (2in) at 1/50 or 65mm (2 1/2in) in 1/65 for my ENDEAVOUR.  A little more realistic than the 3mm (195mm or 7 3/4in) versions provided in the kit
(but as a newbie I could be wrong.....)

Yep, this is the method I suggest when folks ask about where to buy eye bolts. Why buy them when you can quickly and easily make them yourself? And for much less money, too!

In the US, it seems the jewelers call it "electroforming' (as opposed to the similar "electroplating.") There are many tutorials about the process, most for jewelers, on YouTube. 
 
 

Search for AlexBaronov and Imperial Yacht.
 
The process is galvanoplastic, which has been used for some 150 years to duplicate objects. Alex uses a sort of inverse lost-wax casting. The core is CNC-milled from jeweller wax and then coated in a conductive paint. On this copper is deposited electrolytically to a sufficient thickness. The core is simply melted out.
 
Another technique used is metal spinning.

I know her well. She was on S.F. Bay for many decades, known as Wander Bird.  She was a rig-less houseboat in Sausalito when I first met her in the early seventies, thirty years or so after she'd completed her voyage west around Cape Horn to San Francisco before the War. Warwick Tompkins had skippered her around the Horn with his wife, two young children, and a paid hand. Warwick was a well-known local yachtsman, as to this day is his son, Warwick "Commodore" Tompkins, who was four at the time of their voyage.
Warwick M. Tompkins wrote two books about his family's voyage around Cape Horn in Wander Bird: Fifty South to Fifty South, 1938, W.W.Norton & Co., NY and Two Sailors, 1939, The Viking Press, NY, (a story of the voyage written from the perspective of the Tompkins  children.) Both of these books are full of good photographs showing details of the vessel which would likely be very helpful to the modeler. Fifty South by Fifty South,  contains together with the expected narrative of the voyage, an appendix containing many technical details on the vessel . Warwick Tompkins also made a 35mm movie of the voyage entitled In the Wake of the Clippers, which a modeler would probably be interested in watching. I've never seen the movie and I don't know if it is still extant. I'm sure "Commodore Thompkins" would know. I expect he could be reached through the St. Francis Yacht Club in San Francisco.
 
Wander Bird was later acquired by Hal Sommer, a local tug boat skipper and acquaintance of mine, who spent years restoring "the Bird" to mint condition and sailing her on the Bay. Wander Bird was for many years the centerpiece of the classic yacht community on San Francisco Bay. I was fortunate to be able to witness a lot of the work done on her and I learned much about larger wooden shipbuilding by watching Hal, his son Ross, and other "old timers" working on her.  Wander Bird was ultimately sold and moved up to Washington, I believe, and then returned to Germany as a museum ship. 
 
The restored Bird sailing off Yellow Bluff heading home to Sausalito, CA on S.F. Bay. Note the two crew aloft at the mainmast doubling. I have no idea what they are doing up there, other than "skylarking," but I doubt that. Hal ran a tight ship so I doubt they were up there for fun. They wouldn't have been raising setting a topsail in than wind and on that course and there's no evidence of one on deck, 
 

 

 
She carried a rafee topsail earlier in her life:
 

 
I'm looking forward to your build log!

Just a tip if you haven't tried it as yet: You can practice technique using water as a medium on absorbent paper, perhaps with a touch of watercolor or food coloring mixed in if your paper doesn't show much wet/dry contrast. Often, just plain water will show up quite well. Brown paper bag paper works well because it gets dark when wet. In this way, There's really no clean-up after practicing that needs to be done unless you've run some colored water through your gun and even then, all that's required is to just rinse it out. 

I still have much detailing to add to the sail.  Beckets(straps) still need to be installed.  I’ll probably add the chain sheets for the top topsail. 
 
Rob

Thousands of years from now, archaeologists will be dumbfounded by those wire springs on clothespins. They'll keep finding them with their metal detectors, but there will be a raging debate over what they were actually used for.  

Crothers' The American Built Clipper Ship - 1850-1856 is the bible on American clipper ships. A bit hard to find these days and it can be pricey, but I see it is out in paperback as well as the hardbacked version. Amazon has a used one at a good price right now: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=9780071358231&i=stripbooks&linkCode=qs
 
I'd ditto Rob's recommendation of Underhill's Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier but with the warning that Underhill was a British writer and his references are often to British rigging methods. I can't recall for sure, but I don't think he distinguished between the two. 
 
Underhill's drafting is a joy to behold. There are very few around these days who can equal it.