Bob Cleek

Yes, you've correctly identified your problem. Pin, or brad, "pushers" are made in a variety of sizes to fit the brads and pins they are intended to push.
 
Here's an example of a pin pusher made for small ("lil") pins often found in ship model kits:
 

 
 
Model Craft PPU8174 Pen Grip Pin Pusher (activescalemodels.co.uk)\
 
and another:
 

 
Pin Pusher & 100 pins | eBay
 
The pusher you have purchased is designed for much larger brads or escutcheon pins. This size brad pusher is frequently employed by picture framers to push finishing nails into picture frames.
 

 
 
These pushers are handy if you have a lot of pins to insert, but holes must always be drilled in wood when inserting pins. Attempting to push a brad or pin in wood without drilling a pilot hole will usually result in a bent pin, a cracked piece of wood, or both. 
 
I've acquired a few pin pushers of various sizes over the years at garage sales and the like and I occasionally use one, but a more versatile and more easily controlled solution, as Jaager sagely notes, is a pin insertion plier.
 

 
Pin Insertion Plier - - Amazon.com
 

Yes, you've correctly identified your problem. Pin, or brad, "pushers" are made in a variety of sizes to fit the brads and pins they are intended to push.
 
Here's an example of a pin pusher made for small ("lil") pins often found in ship model kits:
 

 
 
Model Craft PPU8174 Pen Grip Pin Pusher (activescalemodels.co.uk)\
 
and another:
 

 
Pin Pusher & 100 pins | eBay
 
The pusher you have purchased is designed for much larger brads or escutcheon pins. This size brad pusher is frequently employed by picture framers to push finishing nails into picture frames.
 

 
 
These pushers are handy if you have a lot of pins to insert, but holes must always be drilled in wood when inserting pins. Attempting to push a brad or pin in wood without drilling a pilot hole will usually result in a bent pin, a cracked piece of wood, or both. 
 
I've acquired a few pin pushers of various sizes over the years at garage sales and the like and I occasionally use one, but a more versatile and more easily controlled solution, as Jaager sagely notes, is a pin insertion plier.
 

 
Pin Insertion Plier - - Amazon.com
 

Everybody agrees that there is no historically accurate data on what these vessels looked like, specifically. At best, we might have some idea of the type they were, but that's about it. Nevertheless, they just keep on putting out books and model kits of the Nina, the Pinta, and the Santa Maria. The demand just never lets up.
 

There are indeed many choices for clamps. I would steer clear of wasting money on the "planking clamps" sold by MicroMark and similar hobby outlets. They are of dubious value and extremely expensive. If one properly spiles and bends their planks, there should be little, if any, need to clamp them much, in any event. 
 
I'd suggest buying a box or two of standard binder clips in suitable sizes, large and small, at the stationery store. They are inexpensive and very handy. After that, buy a few clamps in styles that you find attractive and see how they work. If they do the trick for you, then invest in a few more. Most serious modelers end up with boxes full of assorted clamps. Once your clamp box reaches "critical mass," you'll find they breed quite successfully without any attention. Lay in a supply of push pins while you're at the stationery store. They also will be found useful. (Drill a hole for a plank fastening and secure the plank with a push pin. When the adhesive dries, remove the push pin and insert a treenail.)
 

 
 
Binder clips can be disassembled and one of the bent wire "arms" inserted in the inside of the spring of another clip to produce a planking clamp as illustrated below:

 
Or suitable pieces of wood can be inserted in the inside of the binder clip spring to achieve a similar result. I find pieces of "popsickle" (craft) sticks inserted in small size (1/4" - 1/2" capacity) binder clips work well for this application. 
 

 

 
 

There are indeed many choices for clamps. I would steer clear of wasting money on the "planking clamps" sold by MicroMark and similar hobby outlets. They are of dubious value and extremely expensive. If one properly spiles and bends their planks, there should be little, if any, need to clamp them much, in any event. 
 
I'd suggest buying a box or two of standard binder clips in suitable sizes, large and small, at the stationery store. They are inexpensive and very handy. After that, buy a few clamps in styles that you find attractive and see how they work. If they do the trick for you, then invest in a few more. Most serious modelers end up with boxes full of assorted clamps. Once your clamp box reaches "critical mass," you'll find they breed quite successfully without any attention. Lay in a supply of push pins while you're at the stationery store. They also will be found useful. (Drill a hole for a plank fastening and secure the plank with a push pin. When the adhesive dries, remove the push pin and insert a treenail.)
 

 
 
Binder clips can be disassembled and one of the bent wire "arms" inserted in the inside of the spring of another clip to produce a planking clamp as illustrated below:

 
Or suitable pieces of wood can be inserted in the inside of the binder clip spring to achieve a similar result. I find pieces of "popsickle" (craft) sticks inserted in small size (1/4" - 1/2" capacity) binder clips work well for this application. 
 

 

 
 

There are indeed many choices for clamps. I would steer clear of wasting money on the "planking clamps" sold by MicroMark and similar hobby outlets. They are of dubious value and extremely expensive. If one properly spiles and bends their planks, there should be little, if any, need to clamp them much, in any event. 
 
I'd suggest buying a box or two of standard binder clips in suitable sizes, large and small, at the stationery store. They are inexpensive and very handy. After that, buy a few clamps in styles that you find attractive and see how they work. If they do the trick for you, then invest in a few more. Most serious modelers end up with boxes full of assorted clamps. Once your clamp box reaches "critical mass," you'll find they breed quite successfully without any attention. Lay in a supply of push pins while you're at the stationery store. They also will be found useful. (Drill a hole for a plank fastening and secure the plank with a push pin. When the adhesive dries, remove the push pin and insert a treenail.)
 

 
 
Binder clips can be disassembled and one of the bent wire "arms" inserted in the inside of the spring of another clip to produce a planking clamp as illustrated below:

 
Or suitable pieces of wood can be inserted in the inside of the binder clip spring to achieve a similar result. I find pieces of "popsickle" (craft) sticks inserted in small size (1/4" - 1/2" capacity) binder clips work well for this application. 
 

 

 
 

There are indeed many choices for clamps. I would steer clear of wasting money on the "planking clamps" sold by MicroMark and similar hobby outlets. They are of dubious value and extremely expensive. If one properly spiles and bends their planks, there should be little, if any, need to clamp them much, in any event. 
 
I'd suggest buying a box or two of standard binder clips in suitable sizes, large and small, at the stationery store. They are inexpensive and very handy. After that, buy a few clamps in styles that you find attractive and see how they work. If they do the trick for you, then invest in a few more. Most serious modelers end up with boxes full of assorted clamps. Once your clamp box reaches "critical mass," you'll find they breed quite successfully without any attention. Lay in a supply of push pins while you're at the stationery store. They also will be found useful. (Drill a hole for a plank fastening and secure the plank with a push pin. When the adhesive dries, remove the push pin and insert a treenail.)
 

 
 
Binder clips can be disassembled and one of the bent wire "arms" inserted in the inside of the spring of another clip to produce a planking clamp as illustrated below:

 
Or suitable pieces of wood can be inserted in the inside of the binder clip spring to achieve a similar result. I find pieces of "popsickle" (craft) sticks inserted in small size (1/4" - 1/2" capacity) binder clips work well for this application. 
 

 

 
 

On simulating wood: it is actually quite possible to apply a coat of shellac on a part that has been painted with acrylics. Just make sure that the acrylics have had time to thoroughly dry, say a week or so. Otherwise, there is a risk that the alcohol in the shellac solution damages the acrylics. The idea is got a surface sheen similar to a 'French polish'.
 
It is also possible to slightly matt the polish to a satin sheen by lightly rubbing the surface with pumice powder. This has to be done very cautiously e.g. with a humid cotton-stick or a finger tip in order not rub through to the paint, which happens very easily at corners or raised parts.

Tim,
Sorry to continue with spending money and researching suggestions, but.............
You can learn a lot about "the method" in The Ships of the American Revolution and their models by Harold M. Hahn. ($13 for a used copy at Abe books) 
For a somewhat complete explanation from start to finish of "the method" , maybe consider continuing your search and check out the Beavers Prize build log here at MSW.   
 
Allan

I learn something new on this forum every day! Got to remember that one. Sometimes I want that patina without the wait.

Yes, exactly so! And I wouldn't advise cleaning a coffee maker with oxalic acid, either!
 

I agree with wefalck that heavy corrosion on the copper plate should be investigated, and the cause identified and eliminated. No ship ever had a shiny copper bottom. The actual appearance of coppered bottoms has been discussed at length in other posts with many photos posted. Some modelers do still cling to "shiny bottoms," along with other stylistic affectations. Every artist presents their work to the world and the world decides whether it's worthy of appreciation or not. It's a chance we all take. It's your call to make.
 
If you want to remove the green patina, oxalic acid crystals dissolved in warm water (sold in paint stores as "wood bleach") will remove it effectively. (Wear rubber gloves, as prolonged skin exposure to the solution, particularly under the fingernails, can produce extremely painful skin injury. Don't ask me how I know this.) Alternately, there is a product marketed in hardware stores for cleaning bathroom fixtures and coffee makers called "CLR," (which stands for "Calcium-Lime-Rust") which is very effective in removing copper oxidation, as well.

Excellent news I am now so glad I purchased the book. and thank you for your reply it is very much appreciated. Best regards Dave

Seamanship in  the Age of Sail will definitely provide an understanding of how sailing ships work. Understanding how ships operate is really one of the more important subjects any serious modeler must wrap their head around. It is extremely difficult, even with good instructions, to build a model if you don't know how the parts all work together. Most modelers starting out bite off more than they can chew and this is particularly so with the big fancy square-rigged men-o-war. Seamanship in the Age of Sail isn't necessarily a "cookbook" of diagrams of how to rig sailing ships. It's more a compendium of how sailing ships were sailed. I think you'll quickly find that once you know how they were sailed, you'll have no problem understanding how they were rigged and why.

Seamanship in  the Age of Sail will definitely provide an understanding of how sailing ships work. Understanding how ships operate is really one of the more important subjects any serious modeler must wrap their head around. It is extremely difficult, even with good instructions, to build a model if you don't know how the parts all work together. Most modelers starting out bite off more than they can chew and this is particularly so with the big fancy square-rigged men-o-war. Seamanship in the Age of Sail isn't necessarily a "cookbook" of diagrams of how to rig sailing ships. It's more a compendium of how sailing ships were sailed. I think you'll quickly find that once you know how they were sailed, you'll have no problem understanding how they were rigged and why.

Seamanship in  the Age of Sail will definitely provide an understanding of how sailing ships work. Understanding how ships operate is really one of the more important subjects any serious modeler must wrap their head around. It is extremely difficult, even with good instructions, to build a model if you don't know how the parts all work together. Most modelers starting out bite off more than they can chew and this is particularly so with the big fancy square-rigged men-o-war. Seamanship in the Age of Sail isn't necessarily a "cookbook" of diagrams of how to rig sailing ships. It's more a compendium of how sailing ships were sailed. I think you'll quickly find that once you know how they were sailed, you'll have no problem understanding how they were rigged and why.

Seamanship in  the Age of Sail will definitely provide an understanding of how sailing ships work. Understanding how ships operate is really one of the more important subjects any serious modeler must wrap their head around. It is extremely difficult, even with good instructions, to build a model if you don't know how the parts all work together. Most modelers starting out bite off more than they can chew and this is particularly so with the big fancy square-rigged men-o-war. Seamanship in the Age of Sail isn't necessarily a "cookbook" of diagrams of how to rig sailing ships. It's more a compendium of how sailing ships were sailed. I think you'll quickly find that once you know how they were sailed, you'll have no problem understanding how they were rigged and why.

Old shipbuilding and seamanship texts often had oversized drawings that folded out or were included in an envelope attached to the book cover or even as a separate volume.  In scanning the book for reproduction the person doing the work often doesn’t bother to unfold the drawings, or leaves them out entirely.
 
The University of Michigan has one of the largest academic  libraries in the US, and since they have taught Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering since the late 1800’s their library includes many books of interest to us.  They were also one of the first US Universities to begin to digitize their collection.  I have bought two books from them:  an 1866 US Navy Ordnance Manual and a Naval Architecture text from the same era.  Both were of far better quality than the usual imported offerings,  and I will continue to buy more, but even these each omitted a drawing.
 
Roger

You've bought a recognised classic Dave. I've got it, and can reassure you that you've not wasted your money. To quote one top modeller "Everything you wanted to (and should) know about sailing period ships".
 
Derek

Absolutely!   When I can, I try hard to get the original printing of older volumes for this reason, because the original drawings are much sharper, and also because the original bindings are usually much easier to work with than reprints (Dover reprints are usually bound in a way that's especially hard to use).     (I've never found a reprint of anything that feels as good in the hands as the original edition.)  I have had great experience finding old editions at excellent prices through bookfinder.com, or sometimes through one of the other sites that bookfinder uses (notably biblio.com).  And I make an effort to avoid buying such things through Amazon; you'll usually find the dealers' listings through various sites at somewhat different prices.   In a case like this Amazon offers no benefit and I want to support the independents as much as I can.     Remember, in many many cases a patient search can get you the first edition for no more money than a new reprint.

I've been "lurking" from time to time to watch the development of this masterpiece. I have to confess, I had no idea the scale was so small! It's truly impressive. Thanks for sharing it with us.

It's properly called an Archimedean drill, also known as a fretwork drill, is an old type of drill which works on the Archimedian principle; the drill rotates quickly as the barrel on the stem is worked up and down. This tool provides a quick and easy way to bore holes through fretwood. They are still made and available in various sizes on the new and used specialty tool market, some with springs and others without.
 

 
Garrett Wade has a couple in their catalog:
 

 
Archimedes Screw Drills | Small Hand Drills | Garrett Wade
 
Garrett Wade also sells an "Essential" and an "Advanced" ship modeler's tool kit. The "Advanced Tool Kit" includes the Archimedean drill pictured above. All of the items in these ship modeling tool kits are available individually. Individual Specialist Tools For Ship Modelers (garrettwade.com)
 
The smaller of the two offered by Garrett Wade can also be found on Amazon: Rolson Archimedean Drill - - Amazon.com
 
A "modern" version is carried by many jewelry making supply houses:

Amazon.com : archimedean drill
 
Used models are offered on eBay and Etsy:
 

 
Vintage English 10 Archimedes Drill | Etsy
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Beat me to it while I was compiling my response after seeing nobody had responded.
 
There ought to be a red button with a buzzer we could hit when we know the answer, that would block the other contestants from answering and determine who had the right answer first,  like on the TV game shows.  

Beat me to it while I was compiling my response after seeing nobody had responded.
 
There ought to be a red button with a buzzer we could hit when we know the answer, that would block the other contestants from answering and determine who had the right answer first,  like on the TV game shows.  

Here in the US, a "Yankee screwdriver" (which will also hold proprietary drill bits) is a specific line of push drills made by Stanley. At present, I believe there is only one model still being manufactured and sold new.
 

 
Yankee Push Drill with Extra Bits (garrettwade.com)
 
The older, and larger models, made in three sizes, apparently are no longer made by Stanley, looked like this one:
 

 
Somebody in Germany stepped into the breach and is now offering copies of the classic Stanley Yankee:
 

 
Yankee Screwdriver | Garrett Wade
 
The poster isn't looking for the spring-loaded Yankee type push drill, but rather the Archimedean drill which is operated with two hands, one sliding a piece up and down the shaft to turn the bit. The spring loaded Yankees operate one-handed, by simply pushing the handle against the workpiece. The Yankees are great for driving screws because they have the heft to put some force into the turning, but still permit the "feel" to "feedback" to the user, unlike powered drills with screwdriving bits, which have a tendency to break the screw when driven too forcefully. The Archimedean or fretwork drills are for much lighter and precise work than the Yankee types.