Bob Cleek

You must be a ruthless culler!  

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

I agree! You just assemble a plastic kit. "Glue part number 5A into hole number 5B" and so on. There's no need to understand what the part is called or what its function might be. To a greater extent, particularly with earlier wooden models, be they ship or otherwise, at least before laser cutting, is was just assumed by the manufacturers that their customers has some basic understanding of what they were building and adequate woodworking skills to cut and fit the parts together.  Unfortunately, many of recent generations are often clueless when it comes to the manual arts and the high schools by and large abandoning their shop classes hasn't helped any, either. Anybody starting in out in sailing ship modeling would do well to start by reading Chapelle's Boatbuilding and learning how a wooden boat is built from the lines up. That will make their modeling tasks much more understandable. Of course, such advice would be sure to fall on deaf ears in this age of instant gratification. How many kids today know "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?"
 

I agree! You just assemble a plastic kit. "Glue part number 5A into hole number 5B" and so on. There's no need to understand what the part is called or what its function might be. To a greater extent, particularly with earlier wooden models, be they ship or otherwise, at least before laser cutting, is was just assumed by the manufacturers that their customers has some basic understanding of what they were building and adequate woodworking skills to cut and fit the parts together.  Unfortunately, many of recent generations are often clueless when it comes to the manual arts and the high schools by and large abandoning their shop classes hasn't helped any, either. Anybody starting in out in sailing ship modeling would do well to start by reading Chapelle's Boatbuilding and learning how a wooden boat is built from the lines up. That will make their modeling tasks much more understandable. Of course, such advice would be sure to fall on deaf ears in this age of instant gratification. How many kids today know "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?"
 

I agree! You just assemble a plastic kit. "Glue part number 5A into hole number 5B" and so on. There's no need to understand what the part is called or what its function might be. To a greater extent, particularly with earlier wooden models, be they ship or otherwise, at least before laser cutting, is was just assumed by the manufacturers that their customers has some basic understanding of what they were building and adequate woodworking skills to cut and fit the parts together.  Unfortunately, many of recent generations are often clueless when it comes to the manual arts and the high schools by and large abandoning their shop classes hasn't helped any, either. Anybody starting in out in sailing ship modeling would do well to start by reading Chapelle's Boatbuilding and learning how a wooden boat is built from the lines up. That will make their modeling tasks much more understandable. Of course, such advice would be sure to fall on deaf ears in this age of instant gratification. How many kids today know "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?"
 

I think some of the disappointment in the instructions of most traditional wooden ship model kits lies in their different evolutionary pathway from plastic kits.
I think plastic - being a new material - post WWII - and the subjects for the kits were metallic and heavily engineered with lots of detailed plans for the original ships or aircraft or rail or war machines.  The plans for each kit were complete and self sufficient.  Plastic kits are mostly about assembly of pre- formed  components. Plus- now very sophisticated finishing techniques.  In origin, it was just a few jars of Testors oil based paint and a basic small brush.
 
Wooden ships - pre 1860 - had a different sort of plan.  The construction the shipwrights art and was pretty much common to all vessels - with changes from generation to generation.  So there were no voluminous detailed plans to copy for a kit.   
The original versions were solid carved hull scratch builds, using instructions in magazines like Popular Mechanics.  I see the kits starting as a shortcut for those not wishing to carve a block of Pine or Basswood.  
There were a few  how-to  books that were expected to be the major source for directions.   The kits just provided some materials for what was still essentially a scratch build process.  Kits became more involved and reduced a lot of the scratch build aspect.  It was still assumed  that general instruction books would be used for learning the basic techniques.   For wooden kits, it is about first shaping the components and then assembling them.   The basic skills are mostly the same for all kits, so detailed instruction for any single kit is just repeating the same instructions over and over.  It also involves a multitude of tools, that must be learned and practiced with.  
 
 
 

Regarding plexiglass cost: when I lived in Boston (more than 40 years ago) there was a plexiglass dealer in South Boston that sold the scraps left over from cutting. I was able to get pieces big enough to build cases up to about 2 ft x 3 ft x 1 ft. The dealer sold the scrap by the pound. I would pick out the pieces I wanted and carry them to a big scale. It never cost much. If you can find something like that it makes the plexiglass affordable.

You must be a ruthless culler!  

You must be a ruthless culler!  

You must be a ruthless culler!  

You must be a ruthless culler!  

You must be a ruthless culler!  

I have most of the “Two Foot Library” books in my collection, bought when I was much younger.  While they are old standbys, their scope is limited pretty much to Eighteenth and Nineteenth British and American Sailing Vessels.  As such they would be useful to most kit builders trying to improve the accuracy of their work.
 
The list mostly omits small craft, regional craft, and completely omits engine powered ships.
 
I am a scratch builder that tries to build models of vessels never modeled or at least rarely modeled before.  This means that these ships either did not participate in noteworthy historic events,  or for which little information is commonly available. This means tracking down information on a project by project basis.  Others venturing into scratch building will need to either buy the plan packages available from sellers like Ancre and Seawatch or develop a library for each project as I have done.
 
Roger
 
 

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

It might have been a good start twenty years ago, but nothing more. Continually acquiring related research materials as one goes along is an essential part of this hobby. The technology of modeling has increased and complexified tremendously in the twenty years since that was written. I would say that any of the then-contemporary "how-to-do-it" books are fairly obsolete by now, save for the very few "classics." Avoid anything with the words "How to" in the title. For example, you will hear about frequently-recommended books on how to build kits, but they will have been written in the days of double "plank on bulkhead" construction long before laser-cut parts and photo-etched fittings became commonplace and they really fall short of addressing what a quality kit can produce today.  They are generally a waste of money. There will always be yet another "must-have" volume to acquire. If someone starting out asked me, I'd advise them to first acquire the "classics" that have stood the test of time, such as the books by Davis, Underhill, Longridge, and The Ship Modeler's Shopnotes I and II on modeling technique and Chapelle on American period vessels, if that's your focus of interest. Wrap your head around that information, then take it from there. Also, don't limit your selections to specifically ship modeling books, either. Any good book on any of the related crafts will contribute to making you a better modeler. You will, eventually, want to know about various wood species and their qualities, how to cut, turn, and carve wood, how to finish wood, how to fabricate metal parts and join them together, how to sew, how to make your own scale cordage, how to read "lines drawings" and do drafting, both manual and CAD, if that's your cup of tea, and on and on. This is what makes this hobby one that can stay with you for a lifetime.

Got it! That should keep the case solidly in place on the base. I addressed that problem by cutting a rabet in the base edge which the case sets down on. The side of the rabet keeps the case from sliding around.. "Different ships, different long splices!"  
 
I used your "notched mitered corner" method on this case pictured below for rigidity as you do.  It was built before I'd added epoxy to my armamentarium.  I was concerned about the strength of the glued corners given the relative narrowness of the framing, which, for aesthetic reasons, I didn't want to make larger. It was made from a particularly nice plank of hard old-growth redwood I happened to have on hand.  This case has held up well for over 35 years, two wives, three kids, and several moves. The somewhat narrow table has always been screw-fastened to the wall, which was a good thing in the big 6.9 magnitude Loma Prieta earthquake! We native Californians learn to adapt to our environment!  

This sounds like great stuff! Not only does it provide the advantages you mentioned, but it's unbreakable! Regrettably, "expensive" is an understatement, though. A 4'X8' sheet of the stuff runs around $1,500! Optium Museum F 0001 Tue-Vue Specialty Sheet - 48 x 96 x .125 (acplasticsinc.com) I've "saved" the site address in my "favorites" in case I win the lottery one day.  

Got it! That should keep the case solidly in place on the base. I addressed that problem by cutting a rabet in the base edge which the case sets down on. The side of the rabet keeps the case from sliding around.. "Different ships, different long splices!"  
 
I used your "notched mitered corner" method on this case pictured below for rigidity as you do.  It was built before I'd added epoxy to my armamentarium.  I was concerned about the strength of the glued corners given the relative narrowness of the framing, which, for aesthetic reasons, I didn't want to make larger. It was made from a particularly nice plank of hard old-growth redwood I happened to have on hand.  This case has held up well for over 35 years, two wives, three kids, and several moves. The somewhat narrow table has always been screw-fastened to the wall, which was a good thing in the big 6.9 magnitude Loma Prieta earthquake! We native Californians learn to adapt to our environment!  

I will suggest you consider "Tru Vue Optimum Museum Acrylic" for your case.  It's expensive - but - it's antireflective; you may not appreciate the difference this makes in presentation.  It makes an amazing difference.  It is also thinner than most acrylic sheets or glass.  This minimizes the refraction effect as light passes through the inside and outside surfaces.  It does not out-gas and has antistatic, scratch resistant and UV blocking coatings.  It is also much lighter than glass or thicker acrylic. 
 
Framing shops will handle this acrylic for you.  Considering its cost, I would let them do the cutting.
 
And as mentioned above, the case's design must allow for ventilation.  

Got it! That should keep the case solidly in place on the base. I addressed that problem by cutting a rabet in the base edge which the case sets down on. The side of the rabet keeps the case from sliding around.. "Different ships, different long splices!"  
 
I used your "notched mitered corner" method on this case pictured below for rigidity as you do.  It was built before I'd added epoxy to my armamentarium.  I was concerned about the strength of the glued corners given the relative narrowness of the framing, which, for aesthetic reasons, I didn't want to make larger. It was made from a particularly nice plank of hard old-growth redwood I happened to have on hand.  This case has held up well for over 35 years, two wives, three kids, and several moves. The somewhat narrow table has always been screw-fastened to the wall, which was a good thing in the big 6.9 magnitude Loma Prieta earthquake! We native Californians learn to adapt to our environment!  

The reason for the notches used with my system is to secure the uprights.  The uprights pass clear thru the mitered base joints to the case bottom.  They are easily cut with my bandsaw.  For an earlier case, I used short pieces of dowels glued into holes drilled into the base and longitudinally into the uprights.  This didn’t provide the same rigidity.
 
Roger
 
 

Who makes this table? Can you tell us where you got it? It's exactly what I have been looking for.
 
Regards,