Bob Cleek

Paying a horizontal seam with hot tar is a trick I'd love to see.  
 
Fascinating. i've never heard of caulked trunnels. or "Dutchmen" (a graving piece let in over a bolt in this case.) Trunnels are always driven as dry as they can be into tight holes so that when they swell back in the higher relative humidity, they will hold fast. They may also be tenoned, blind at the bottom, and/or at the top. There's no caulking in the world that is going to create a stronger friction fit than that (which would only be around the outer edge of the trunnel, anyhow.) I can't imagine what benefit there would possibly be to a "caulked" trunnel. As for Dutchmen, there's not enough meat on them for any sort of caulking to hold them in place reliably. Until the advent of modern adhesives, they were generally bedded and mechanically fastened.
 
Is there a book that tells more about early trunneling practices? I sure can't wrap my head around what you're describing about caulking them.

Well, I guess you've established your bona fides!  
 
Welcome back! You're contributions promise to be of great value to us all. That said, from one whose experience overlaps your own, let me caution you not to be daunted by the masterpieces of today's digitally-sophisticated "micro-engineers" who are producing models we never dreamed possible twenty-five years ago! Our Preac saws and Unimat lathes that were state-of-the-art back in the day, are now but collectable reminders of times past, but we old practitioners of the manual arts still soldier on nontheless. 

So, Jim, now that you've got the R&D done, when might we expect this new Model Machines toy to go into production?  

My problem wasn't the power, but the size of the tools. When we bought our current place 16 years ago, a house and a 1500 square foot workshop building on 2.5 acres zoned "commercial/agricultural," I noticed the two transformers on the utility pole with the "drop" to the workshop. The workshop had originally been a cabinetmaker's shop before the sellers had bought the place. There was no mention of what was obviously 440 VAC three-phase commercial-rate power to the shop, and I said nothing.   I've never had the need to acquire any three-phase equipment, which can often be found dirt cheap on the used market, but I did pull two 220 VAC circuits off of the 440 VAC panel and wire the shop with 220 VAC outlets all around for my stationary power tools. Three-phase power is much less expensive than single phase, so the monthly bill on the shop meter is less than ten bucks. (Yes, I've thought of running a line from the shop back to the house, but you can go to jail for doing that.) Years later, a friend who worked for the local power company told me getting 440 VAC three-phase commercial service installed, assuming one could get a permit, would run at least $25,000 and I nearly wet my pants!  Meanwhile, if I come across a big Bridgeport with all the trimmings for the price of hauling it away, I'm good to go.

Neither do I, but catching up to them is challenging! I've come to accept that I haven't enough time left on this mortal coil to justify the time and energy investment in the steep learning curve CAD demands. I'm reconciled to dying at my drawing board, I'm afraid.  

... which was the most practical posture, given that they often put their chest into it to push the bar. Oddly, though, the  contemporary pictorial record frequently depicts seamen carelessly pushing the bars with their hands. Perhaps this was a casual approach used to take up a slack cable before the real work began. 
 
The guy on the right in the black cap is definitely a slacker, but then again, there's nothing on the drum!

 
The men to the left are doing it right. The men to the right aren't. Likely "artistic license" in this engraving.

 
It seems the Finnish Navy did things differently, but there doesn't appear to be anything on the drum in this apparently posed photo. I mean, really, who mans a capstan in their dress blues?

 
Doing it right, but again, everybody's in their Class A's and this steam screw vessel appears underway at sea with white-painted anchor chain secured, clean and Bristol fashion, so what are they hauling, anyway?

 
 
Germans, correctly putting their backs into it like they actually might be doing some real work.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

So, Jim, now that you've got the R&D done, when might we expect this new Model Machines toy to go into production?  

My problem wasn't the power, but the size of the tools. When we bought our current place 16 years ago, a house and a 1500 square foot workshop building on 2.5 acres zoned "commercial/agricultural," I noticed the two transformers on the utility pole with the "drop" to the workshop. The workshop had originally been a cabinetmaker's shop before the sellers had bought the place. There was no mention of what was obviously 440 VAC three-phase commercial-rate power to the shop, and I said nothing.   I've never had the need to acquire any three-phase equipment, which can often be found dirt cheap on the used market, but I did pull two 220 VAC circuits off of the 440 VAC panel and wire the shop with 220 VAC outlets all around for my stationary power tools. Three-phase power is much less expensive than single phase, so the monthly bill on the shop meter is less than ten bucks. (Yes, I've thought of running a line from the shop back to the house, but you can go to jail for doing that.) Years later, a friend who worked for the local power company told me getting 440 VAC three-phase commercial service installed, assuming one could get a permit, would run at least $25,000 and I nearly wet my pants!  Meanwhile, if I come across a big Bridgeport with all the trimmings for the price of hauling it away, I'm good to go.

Bob,
 
I have nothing against the "digital natives" in this wonderful craft.  I will continue to take pleasure in hand-carving figureheads and decorative cherubs for my ship models.  Far more satisfying that using a 3D Printer...LOL
 
Regards,
 
Hank

Well, I guess you've established your bona fides!  
 
Welcome back! You're contributions promise to be of great value to us all. That said, from one whose experience overlaps your own, let me caution you not to be daunted by the masterpieces of today's digitally-sophisticated "micro-engineers" who are producing models we never dreamed possible twenty-five years ago! Our Preac saws and Unimat lathes that were state-of-the-art back in the day, are now but collectable reminders of times past, but we old practitioners of the manual arts still soldier on nontheless. 

Well, I guess you've established your bona fides!  
 
Welcome back! You're contributions promise to be of great value to us all. That said, from one whose experience overlaps your own, let me caution you not to be daunted by the masterpieces of today's digitally-sophisticated "micro-engineers" who are producing models we never dreamed possible twenty-five years ago! Our Preac saws and Unimat lathes that were state-of-the-art back in the day, are now but collectable reminders of times past, but we old practitioners of the manual arts still soldier on nontheless. 

Nice demonstration, dafi. If you are planning on actually manning the capstan in your model, remember that they gripped the bars thumbs upward and palms towards them. (This was to avoid broken forearms should the capstan kick back.) So often the wrong grip is shown, like pushing a baby stroller or bike.

Bob
 
It's not done yet,  still have to make the stops on the quill and the lock on the other side.  If it goes into production it's going to be expensive.  The bearings and the ER-16 collet chuck are over 200 bucks.  About 300 bucks just for the store bought stuff + material and time
 
Jim

My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases.
 
The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied  by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.

Beautiful! Does it sound good?  
 
Have you ever visited the website of the Craftsmanship Museum that is run by the Sherline Company that makes small lathes? It's full of beautiful photos and information about the most amazing miniatures and models I've ever seen. (The website has a lot of "depth" beneath the home page, so play around with it to see how much is there.)  Check it out: https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/
 
And all moving parts in the prototype move in the miniature model!

After a hiatus of over 25 years, I find myself longing for the peaceful tranquility and emotional satisfaction I once enjoyed in the craft of ship modeling. There is most certainly truth in the words "A time for every purpose under heaven."
I'd been fascinated with the craft at a relatively early age. At the Maritime Museum in Beaufort, NC, I met the man who would introduce me to ship modeling - the late Frank Gaskill. To refer to Frank as a "Master" at the craft of ship modeling would be to belittle his extraordinary skill, knowledge, and artistry. He guided me in my first project, Harold Hahn's "Hannah," with a level of patience and sharing of his vast knowledge underlain by his often spoken desire, "...to teach the next generation..."
During my "apprenticeship" years, I was blessed to earn the friendship of many of the "Old Guard." There was the late Charlie Files, producer of the Preac Table saw - the tool many spoke of with a degree of reverence. Clay Feldman, publisher of "Ships in Scale" magazine whose issues were read over and over until the paper was yellowed and brittle. There were so many others. Scottie Dayton of Manitowoc, WI, for example, as well as the great Portia Takajian.
Next to Frank was another man, revered by all, who I would often drive 12 hours to visit for the simple pleasure of hearing his many stories, the late Abe Taubman. At the time, everyone's greatest fear was that with Abe's passing would also come the demise of what was considered the ship modeler's "Library of Alexandria" - Taubman Plans Service. Few knew that this vast storehouse of knowledge was little more than a small cubbyhole in the Jersey City, NJ apartment he and his wife raised their two daughters. I will be forever happy that I was able to play a part in finding a new owner of the plans service to meet the financial burden of Abe's care as his health deteriorated and he was ultimately able to rejoined his beloved wife.
So perhaps it is now my time to reawaken my skills in this extraordinary craft and, the Lord willing, be a mentor for the next generation. Perhaps I feel no small obligation but to pass on the knowledge so generously given to me by those "Masters of the Craft" who are no longer with us.
After I've dusted off my collection of tools from their long slumber and arranged a proper workstation (altar?), I'm certain to once again enjoy the wonderful obsession of ship modeling. My first project, you ask? Harold Hahn's "Hannah," of course.
Sincerely,
Hank Reardon

Beautiful! Does it sound good?  
 
Have you ever visited the website of the Craftsmanship Museum that is run by the Sherline Company that makes small lathes? It's full of beautiful photos and information about the most amazing miniatures and models I've ever seen. (The website has a lot of "depth" beneath the home page, so play around with it to see how much is there.)  Check it out: https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/
 
And all moving parts in the prototype move in the miniature model!

Gaetan is right,  most of the benchtop mills don't have the capability to drill holes.  This benchtop mill is a Taig,  it came with the standard head on it,  no drilling.  I made a new head with a quill,  it has an ER-16 collet chuck on it up to 10MM  capacity.  It also has a 1/4 HP motor on it which will run from 600-10000 RPM and has  1 3/4 drilling capacity.  The run out on the spindle is .0002 which is about the best you can get.  It has a Fafnir taper roller bearing on the bottom and a ABEC-5 radial bearing on the top of the spindle and also in the pulley.  I put a Newall magnetic scale digital read out on it also.  The head is designed similar to the old Bridgeport M head.  Also made a vise for it because the one that came with it wasn't too good.  This machine is deadly accurate   
 
Jim
Model Machines

Beautiful! Does it sound good?  
 
Have you ever visited the website of the Craftsmanship Museum that is run by the Sherline Company that makes small lathes? It's full of beautiful photos and information about the most amazing miniatures and models I've ever seen. (The website has a lot of "depth" beneath the home page, so play around with it to see how much is there.)  Check it out: https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/
 
And all moving parts in the prototype move in the miniature model!

Beautiful! Does it sound good?  
 
Have you ever visited the website of the Craftsmanship Museum that is run by the Sherline Company that makes small lathes? It's full of beautiful photos and information about the most amazing miniatures and models I've ever seen. (The website has a lot of "depth" beneath the home page, so play around with it to see how much is there.)  Check it out: https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/
 
And all moving parts in the prototype move in the miniature model!

Beautiful! Does it sound good?  
 
Have you ever visited the website of the Craftsmanship Museum that is run by the Sherline Company that makes small lathes? It's full of beautiful photos and information about the most amazing miniatures and models I've ever seen. (The website has a lot of "depth" beneath the home page, so play around with it to see how much is there.)  Check it out: https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/
 
And all moving parts in the prototype move in the miniature model!

Why don't you impress into the wood tiny circles imitating treenails, with a sharp edge of a medical needle of appropriate size, or any other metal tube?
They look perfect after slight push and twist of such needle into the wood and one coat of Danish oil. (besides, that way it's lots less work...)

What is the diameter of the tree nails (full scale)?   What material do you plan to use?  They should be very subtle if visible at all.  You should not be able to see them from about 2 to 3 feet away.  Look at the various build logs and will see a lot of cases of ships with hulls and decks that look like they have the measles because the treenails/trunnels/trennals were too large and/or too dark.   
Allan

Generally, one would drill before assembly. However, at most model scales, trunnels are invisible at scale viewing distance. In prototype practice, the trunnels were not of greatly contrasting color and never intended to be a visual feature of the design. In large measure, visible trunnels are a modern modeler's fetish, not an accurate depiction of the real thing.
 
For a price, there are small right-angle handpieces for the Foredom flex-shaft system and professional "dental engines," which will drill at any angle you want in small spaces, like your mouth.
 
For Foredom flex-shaft machines, about the size of a pencil:
 

https://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=51
 
 
For dental laboratory engines, the handpiece options are virtually endless. They come in a variety of angles and sizes.
 
Search eBay for used dental laboratory equipment. There are many useful tools used by dentists and dental labs, which make bridges, crowns, and dentures and such, that are extremely useful to the modeler. You might ask your dentist where to go locally for used dental equipment. Dental technology has advanced greatly in recent times. Many dentists are using air-driven dental drills now. The older belt-driven equipment is often piled up in an office closet and may sometimes even be had for the asking! 
 
Here's a once top of the line belt-driven dental lab bench engine with a handpiece on eBay for $500:
 

 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133352050765?hash=item1f0c66d04d:g:hZoAAOSw-wVeYGMN
 
With 45 and 90 degree handpieces and a few collets, bits and burrs, you'd be able to do just about any sort of drilling and carving a modeler could ever want to do in wood, metal, bone, or plastic.
 
 

Generally, one would drill before assembly. However, at most model scales, trunnels are invisible at scale viewing distance. In prototype practice, the trunnels were not of greatly contrasting color and never intended to be a visual feature of the design. In large measure, visible trunnels are a modern modeler's fetish, not an accurate depiction of the real thing.
 
For a price, there are small right-angle handpieces for the Foredom flex-shaft system and professional "dental engines," which will drill at any angle you want in small spaces, like your mouth.
 
For Foredom flex-shaft machines, about the size of a pencil:
 

https://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=51
 
 
For dental laboratory engines, the handpiece options are virtually endless. They come in a variety of angles and sizes.
 
Search eBay for used dental laboratory equipment. There are many useful tools used by dentists and dental labs, which make bridges, crowns, and dentures and such, that are extremely useful to the modeler. You might ask your dentist where to go locally for used dental equipment. Dental technology has advanced greatly in recent times. Many dentists are using air-driven dental drills now. The older belt-driven equipment is often piled up in an office closet and may sometimes even be had for the asking! 
 
Here's a once top of the line belt-driven dental lab bench engine with a handpiece on eBay for $500:
 

 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133352050765?hash=item1f0c66d04d:g:hZoAAOSw-wVeYGMN
 
With 45 and 90 degree handpieces and a few collets, bits and burrs, you'd be able to do just about any sort of drilling and carving a modeler could ever want to do in wood, metal, bone, or plastic.