Bob Cleek

Hi Dave - A word of caution as I'm going to encourage you to spend some well earned money!!!  Have a look on the Cooksongold website as they sell Foredom tools.  I have just swapped over to these and got rid of all of my Dremel gear after this was recommended to me.  I was very reluctant to be honest but the difference is like night and day.  Loads more control with torque rather than speed and a really decent drill press too which suits our needs.  I have a hand piece that accepts 1/4 diameter bits too.  I wish I had bought this years ago as the amount of money I have spent on little bits here and there that turned out to be useless.  Here's a picture of the drill press and the standard hand piece using a small Proxxon vice.  Just another option for you that will stand the test of time.
 
 

I don't want to be a heretic and it may not be the right place to discuss this, but why are people so crazy about tung-oil ? I can understand that it is used for say furniture or certain musical instruments, where apparently it is mixed with line-seed oil to reduce its brittleness. Somehow, applying an oily substance to a delicate item, such as a model, even an oxidating, i.e. drying, oil, does make me somewhat uncomfortable. Shellac or nitrocellulose-based varnishes seem to be 'cleaner' options.
 
There are no many light-fast dyes around, so dying wood should not be such a problem. In think in many cases dyes can be mixed to change the hue and diluted, if needed. This seems to be give more reproducible results.

Yes, that's a common complaint with the Dremel drill press.. All indications are that the flexion in the Dremel unit makes it a bit-breaker for the small size bits. I've found the Vanda-Lay Industry rotary tool drill press to be adequately solid, although for serious drilling I opt for my Unimat SL. I've just discovered the "Micro Fine Drill Mill Adaptor Miniature Quill."  It's 1/2" shaft chucks into a full size drill press. It has a separate quill with a knurled grip that permits drilling with very small bits with fine control. I think I'm going to check it out. 
 
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Shank-JT0-Chuck-Manual-Control-Avoids-Breakage/dp/B06XZ4KJSV/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/138-4377185-5044154?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XZ4KJSV&pd_rd_r=4b546926-1697-465b-b65e-5ff710252f39&pd_rd_w=p7Mbu&pd_rd_wg=iFknW&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q&psc=1&refRID=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q
 

As most everyone says there is no saw but the Byrnes saw. He has zero clearance inserts very cheap, no reason to make one. He has a 220v version and many Europeans have one. He and his wife are a two person business. He can’t quickly respond to everyone, he spends most of his days making great saws. 
 
The extended fence is a must, for me the micrometer I have and never use. I also haven’t needed the zero clearance insert I bought and have ripped and cut everything for my Cheerful without one. I had it in and took it off. Jim’s blade selections are the best there are for his saw. He carefully researched them. You don’t need a bunch of blades, the 30 kerf slitting blade is all I’ve used for Cheerful. Maybe a spare one of those. Plus the big one that comes with it. 
 
You don’t need an adapter if you use his blades, which you should. I can’t imagine the need for a wider table. I’ve had my saw for 12 years and that need never came up. 
 
The best accessory other than the extended fence and the extended mitre gauge rail is the sliding table. When I’m not ripping planks I use it a lot, it’s easy to put on and take off. I never knew I needed it until I got it. Cutting the hatch covers for Cheerful was a piece of cake with it. 
 
It may cost more but it’s worth every cent. Mine has run faithfully for a long time. The slitting blade so far is the only “part” I’ve replaced. 

What Bob said.
Also, since I'm here, there are a couple of specific points that might underline why I would steer you toward the Unimat SL.
First, it is exactly what a small workshop needs all rolled into one. It can be moved around easily. Around 90%+ of what you will need from a lathe/mill for a model ship build can be handled by a DB/SL with a milling column, appropriate cutting tools, a decent 3 jaw chuck and a tailstock chuck providing you have another way of cutting wood to size. The circular saw attachment works very well with a bit of practice but a dedicated saw is better so I hesitate to include it in the 'must-have' list.  If you find you need further attachments, they are available.
Secondly, they are cheaper in the UK than North America. They hold their value also.

One last point: IMHO, to consider a CNC option seems almost like changing the subject. In practice, there would be such a steep learning curve that it would take you away from building the model. CNC is very popular with certain types of model engineers and quite often their background has exposed them to the dark art of setting up and programming but for most people it is hard work and does not always work out as planned.
Just my opinion, you will know what feels like the best for you.
HTH
Bruce 👍

Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
 
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
        http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
        http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
 
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
 

 
Basic machine:
 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
 
Milling configuration:
 

 
 
 

Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
 
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
        http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
        http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
 
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
 

 
Basic machine:
 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
 
Milling configuration:
 

 
 
 

Yes, I believe it is a common problem. Whenever I catch flak for buying "another tool you'll never use," I retort that, "At last count, there were more than forty pairs of shoes in your closet, most of which you will never use." And the fight is on!
 
I've found the best way to get away with tool purchases is to tell them that the tools were a great deal and will be worth far more when I croak than now.  It's the greed that gets 'em every time.

Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
 
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
        http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
        http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
 
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
 

 
Basic machine:
 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
 
Milling configuration:
 

 
 
 

Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
 
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
        http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
        http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
 
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
 

 
Basic machine:
 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
 
Milling configuration:
 

 
 
 

Charles Davis got his wooden shipbuilding experience in shipyards building ships during the World War I shipping crisis.  These ships were built with regularly spaced double sistered frames (two layers).  He copied this practice when he drew his ship model plans.
 
Dispite statements in his book about building models just like the real thing, his framing does not represent late Eighteenth Century Royal Navy Framing practice and his brig does not represent what Lexington probably looked like.
 
I once had a hard copy edition of Davis’s book.  If I remember correctly the book included a set of his plans in a pocket.
 
Roger

My two cents worth:
 
You have said that the stub at the top of the picture is the collet.  You have also said that the nut is loose.
 
Given these facts, it would seem that the flex tool shaft is jammed into the jaws of the collet.  Hopefully, there a hole clear through the collet.  If there is, clamp the nut in a vice.  If you have a set of drift pins, find one that fits into the hole and tap the flex tool shaft out.  A piece of steel or brass round bar stock would work just as well.  Even a bolt will work.  Just make sure that it is a sliding fit.
 
If there is no hole completely through the collet then I’m like your handle- No Idea.
 
Roger

If someone gave me one of those Sixis or Aciera  (watchmaker?)-machines, then I`d put it in a sealed showcase to protect it from dust and humidity,
I wouldn`t dare to touch it without wearing cotton gloves.
If I did any damage to such a machine while operating it, then I`d have seven sleepless nights in sequence.
 
I think that one shouldn`t recommend these swiss precision tools to a beginner.
 
Michael

Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench.   Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.

I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words. 

Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench.   Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.

Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench.   Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.

Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench.   Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.

I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words. 

I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words. 

If you have the time, it would be interesting to see how they did that!

If you have the time, it would be interesting to see how they did that!

Well Bill, welcome to the club! Who knew you were so accomplished a modeler! I thought you were just another "newbie." 
 
The club I'm referring to is the neuropathic modelers' club. Like Roger, I also have peripheral neuropathy in both hands and feet. Fortunately, (knock on wood,) I've managed to soldier on with a variety of the usual compensating techniques. You've got a few years on me, so I can imagine the challenges you face. Neuropathy doesn't get any better as the years roll on, but I'm sure you have more models in those hands. 
 
The plans in Chapelle's books are greatly reduced and in some cases they are too small to read the fine print and lines. If they are enlarged on a copy machine, the detail doesn't come back. You just get a larger picture of what's on the page in the book. That may be sufficient in some instances and quite frustrating in most others where the necessary amount of enlargement is just too great. Full size copies of the originals of all of the plans in Chapelle's books are available mail order from the Smithsonian Institution.  https://americanhistory.si.edu/about/departments/work-and-industry/ship-plans  I believe most of these are drawn to 1/4" or 1/8" to the foot scale.  These can then be adjusted in size on a large format copy machine to any scale one desires.  For more available plans, see: https://councilofamericanmaritimemuseums.org/resources/ship-plans-directory/
 
While architect's and engineer's scales are handy, if you are going to work from plans that aren't to the scale you are building in, you might also consider using a set of proportional dividers which mechanically change scale measurements to whatever scale one desires. I'm sure you are familiar with them. If not, check out: 
 

I went to Catholic school in the 1960s, where I guess it was better than in earlier decades. The nuns didn't stop me from writing with my left hand, as they did with my grandfather, but woe betide the lefty who blessed themselves with their south paw.
 

Those options are also available. It's a matter of preference. I prefer a mechanical transfer of measurements because there is less opportunity for error and less thinking that has to go into it. With a mechanical measurement, any error is immediately apparent by a simple visual comparison, as well. At the end of the day, though, it boils down to what one is used to doing. Manual drafting is a skill I picked up when I was a kid in high school and, while I'm not anything near a professional draftsman, it's always been a quick and comfortable way to do the job for me. I've amassed a considerable collection of drafting instruments over the years just for the enjoyment of it. I have complete sets of Copenhagen ships curves, French curves, engineering curves, and "railroad" and "highway" curves (which have fixed radii.) I use the railroad curves for drawing deck and cabin top cambers conveniently, not often, but I've got them when I do. Similarly, I have an Omicron ellipsograph, which draws elipses to measured dimensions. I've only used it once or twice, but if I ever have to draw an elliptical stern, I'm good to go.  
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904482
 
I have a couple of different "dotting pens," which will draw inked dotted and dashed lines in a variety of configurations. One can draw dots and dashes along a rule easily enough, but the elegance of the tools devised a century or more ago to do the job is fascinating.
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904301
 
 
I've also got a compensating polar planimeter which measures the area of irregular planes. A planimeter is used to calculate hull displacement, sail area, wetted surface, and things like that from lines drawings. Not something the average modeler would ever need to have, but it's another fun old instrument rendered obsolete by CAD these days which can be picked up for fifty bucks or less on eBay if one is so inclined. 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1214998
 
If one is a kit builder, or limits their scratch-building to plans drawn for modeling, most of this stuff is probably of little interest, but for anyone who finds it necessary to draw their own plans for modeling purposes, some of it can be very handy, albeit on rare occasions. For myself, it's mainly just an affordable outlet for my innate acquisitiveness... just another thing to collect.