Bob Cleek
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Rik Thistle in Working with really small items
Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.
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Bob Cleek reacted to normanh in The Bitumen Experiment
Guys - I wouldnt use bitumen if I was you its simply not uv stable, I realise its in small amouts but the thinner the bitumen film the shorter life it will have. Bitumen needs to be protected from surface oxidation. In commercial applications this can be very relevant. I am a former bitumen chemist with a stack of text on the subject based on data published by Shell. In a thin film application it can reduce to dust with light esposure, grades are usually a straight PEN grade typically represented by the numbers 25 to 300 or an oxidised Grade based on two numbers such as 95/25 these numbers relfect the test reults in simple mechincal tests used in industry.
Norman
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Bob Cleek reacted to KBo in Collet on spindle
Well I cut the nut off and after a bit of effort I got the collet off the flexible drive shaft. New nut ordered!
Back on Brig Speedy tomorrow.
Thank you for your ideas. Really appreciated. I find this forum an absolutely amazing place.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Jim Rogers in Collet on spindle
Apply a little heat with a heat gun and pull it out.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Gregory in Collet on spindle
Strange looking collet..
With no more information I would think it is upside down..
The collets I am familiar with look like this:
The collet and retainer appear to be upside down.
Looking at the manual I'm even more convinced..
If you continue un-screwing, the whole thing should come off if you can find some way to lock the shaft..
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Small pieces of Boxwood
Tagua nuts. https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive. It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color. The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Small pieces of Boxwood
Tagua nuts. https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive. It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color. The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from RichardG in Small pieces of Boxwood
Tagua nuts. https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive. It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color. The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues.
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Moab in Small pieces of Boxwood
Tagua nuts. https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive. It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color. The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.
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Bob Cleek reacted to druxey in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
If your brain even suggests 'Is this a bad idea?', then chances are, that it is! Use inserts for peace of mind, accuracy and bodily integrity.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from RichardG in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues.
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues.
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Gregory in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues.
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
I'd strongly second this recommendation. The initial cost is about twice what a decent Dremel or Proxxon will cost, but, indeed there is no comparison. The Foredom flex-shaft tool system is several multiples better than the less expensive options. (Do not opt for one of the Chinese copies now on the market. They've gotten terrible reviews.) As for drill presses, Vanda-Lay Industries, which produces an excellent system of "Dremel powered" drill presses and mills, etc., has informed me they would be happy to supply their equipment with fixtures to hold the 1" diamenter Foredom handpieces instead of the larger Dremel bodies. I'll be upgrading my Vanda-Lay drill press to hold my Foredom handpieces instead of a Dremel moto-tool in the near future. Torque trumps speed every time in fine work!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Sasha131 in Tools from Jeweller's Supply Stores
Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers.
In the US: https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment
https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit
https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
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Bob Cleek reacted to No Idea in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
This is one of these solutions that seems good until things go wrong
1. You cut a thin strip of wood and the one side gets dragged down into the blade and busts through the tape seizing the saw.
2. The tape has drag that a metal surface doesn't. So your piece stops and your finger don't
3. This lulls you into thinking that your saw is set up correctly
I think that you have got away with things so far. If you have worked with power tools for a long period you will know just what a nasty habit they have of biting back just when you're not expecting it. I have so much respect for table saws that there is no way I would do this. Just make yourself a proper zero clearance insert and have done with it. Why even think about taking the risk.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Jaager in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
Your blade is up too high.. I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed dimensions to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.
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Bob Cleek reacted to No Idea in Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
Hi Dave - A word of caution as I'm going to encourage you to spend some well earned money!!! Have a look on the Cooksongold website as they sell Foredom tools. I have just swapped over to these and got rid of all of my Dremel gear after this was recommended to me. I was very reluctant to be honest but the difference is like night and day. Loads more control with torque rather than speed and a really decent drill press too which suits our needs. I have a hand piece that accepts 1/4 diameter bits too. I wish I had bought this years ago as the amount of money I have spent on little bits here and there that turned out to be useless. Here's a picture of the drill press and the standard hand piece using a small Proxxon vice. Just another option for you that will stand the test of time.
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Bob Cleek reacted to wefalck in La Belle Poule 1765 by mtaylor - Scale 1:64 - POB - French Frigate from ANCRE plans
I don't want to be a heretic and it may not be the right place to discuss this, but why are people so crazy about tung-oil ? I can understand that it is used for say furniture or certain musical instruments, where apparently it is mixed with line-seed oil to reduce its brittleness. Somehow, applying an oily substance to a delicate item, such as a model, even an oxidating, i.e. drying, oil, does make me somewhat uncomfortable. Shellac or nitrocellulose-based varnishes seem to be 'cleaner' options.
There are no many light-fast dyes around, so dying wood should not be such a problem. In think in many cases dyes can be mixed to change the hue and diluted, if needed. This seems to be give more reproducible results.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
Yes, that's a common complaint with the Dremel drill press.. All indications are that the flexion in the Dremel unit makes it a bit-breaker for the small size bits. I've found the Vanda-Lay Industry rotary tool drill press to be adequately solid, although for serious drilling I opt for my Unimat SL. I've just discovered the "Micro Fine Drill Mill Adaptor Miniature Quill." It's 1/2" shaft chucks into a full size drill press. It has a separate quill with a knurled grip that permits drilling with very small bits with fine control. I think I'm going to check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Shank-JT0-Chuck-Manual-Control-Avoids-Breakage/dp/B06XZ4KJSV/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/138-4377185-5044154?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XZ4KJSV&pd_rd_r=4b546926-1697-465b-b65e-5ff710252f39&pd_rd_w=p7Mbu&pd_rd_wg=iFknW&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q&psc=1&refRID=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q
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Bob Cleek reacted to glbarlow in which table saw to get??
As most everyone says there is no saw but the Byrnes saw. He has zero clearance inserts very cheap, no reason to make one. He has a 220v version and many Europeans have one. He and his wife are a two person business. He can’t quickly respond to everyone, he spends most of his days making great saws.
The extended fence is a must, for me the micrometer I have and never use. I also haven’t needed the zero clearance insert I bought and have ripped and cut everything for my Cheerful without one. I had it in and took it off. Jim’s blade selections are the best there are for his saw. He carefully researched them. You don’t need a bunch of blades, the 30 kerf slitting blade is all I’ve used for Cheerful. Maybe a spare one of those. Plus the big one that comes with it.
You don’t need an adapter if you use his blades, which you should. I can’t imagine the need for a wider table. I’ve had my saw for 12 years and that need never came up.
The best accessory other than the extended fence and the extended mitre gauge rail is the sliding table. When I’m not ripping planks I use it a lot, it’s easy to put on and take off. I never knew I needed it until I got it. Cutting the hatch covers for Cheerful was a piece of cake with it.
It may cost more but it’s worth every cent. Mine has run faithfully for a long time. The slitting blade so far is the only “part” I’ve replaced.
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