Bob Cleek

It does appear that the sole planks in the prototype make provision for easy lifting. The two planks on either side of the saloon table appear to be screw-fastened as I described. The short planks in the galley, the butts of which are not staggered and align with the frames where sole beams or bearers would be fastened to the frames, clearly indicate that they are designed to lift easily. The absence of staggered butts on the sole planking definitely indicates that they are designed for lifting. The seams in the saloon sole may simply appear tight because of the lighting. The seams between the galley sole planks appear more loosely fit and their corners appear rounded a bit, as would be expected for removable sole planks. What caught my eye in your model's sole was its appearing like a finely finished hardwood floor. Constructing it of a single piece for modeling purposes makes perfect sense. You may want to consider cutting seams in your model sole to depict removable planks, though.
 
The partial ceiling planking to port in the forward compartment is also curious. No question it's there, but I wonder why. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose and isn't run forward, so it doesn't seem to be a structural feature. It almost seems as though there may have been a berth or bench there at some point which has been removed. Who knows? Perhaps it just gave a more finished look to the compartment. From a design standpoint, it was always difficult to effectively transition between the formal Edwardian joinerwork of the high style classic yachts and the exposed structure of the vessel itself. Many ceiled and paneled the interiors of the "owners and guests" compartments and abandoned the formal joinerwork entirely in the forepeak where the galley and crews accommodations were located.
 
Also in the forward compartment to port is a vintage copper Pascall Atkey "Pansy" charcoal cabin heater. (They are also available in stainless steel.) These are the coveted Rolls Royces of solid fuel cabin heaters manufactured by the storied Pascall Atkey chandlery (originally "ironmongers") on the Isle of Wight. They were, last I heard, still available from Pascall Atkey on bespoke order and at today's prices probably run $1,500 or more.  If I might prey upon your passion for detail, I'd love to watch you solder up a model of it!  Here's all you need to know to do so:  https://theconstantgaragesale.wordpress.com/portfolio/pascall-atkey-pansy-charcoal-heater/ The photos on this website are of a fairly modern version. The copy of the advertisement is quite old, judging from the prices quoted! 
 
I have a mint condition stainless Pascall Atkey "Pansy" similar to the one pictured in the website stored in my workshop. It was to go in a boat I owned, but I sold the boat before installing the heater and held on to it. I'll get around to listing it on eBay one of these days, i suppose. I pity whoever is tasked with disposing of my "Alladin's Cave" of tools and yacht gear when I inevitably shuffle off this mortal coil! 

Or a lack of diligent research.  

Not much at all. Probably about as much difference as there is between a good champagne and a good "sparkling wine." "Stockholm" was simply an appellation." "Stockholm tar" was recognized to be a high quality product. it got it's name because pine tar was a prized essential naval store and the best was thought to be that produced by the company that held the Swedish royal warrant for the monopoly on pine tar exported from Stockholm. There was apparently a lot of international politics involved in who got to buy tar from Stockholm. If a nation was on the outs with Sweden, they had a hard time sourcing good pine tar for their navies. When England ruled the American Colonies, it acquired a similar source of high quality pine tar from the North American pine forests and became independent of Sweden's monopoly on the product. Hence, the settlers in North Carolina came to be called "tar heels."

This is where the Byrnes saw and thickness sander start to look a lot like scratch-building essentials. 

Not much at all. Probably about as much difference as there is between a good champagne and a good "sparkling wine." "Stockholm" was simply an appellation." "Stockholm tar" was recognized to be a high quality product. it got it's name because pine tar was a prized essential naval store and the best was thought to be that produced by the company that held the Swedish royal warrant for the monopoly on pine tar exported from Stockholm. There was apparently a lot of international politics involved in who got to buy tar from Stockholm. If a nation was on the outs with Sweden, they had a hard time sourcing good pine tar for their navies. When England ruled the American Colonies, it acquired a similar source of high quality pine tar from the North American pine forests and became independent of Sweden's monopoly on the product. Hence, the settlers in North Carolina came to be called "tar heels."

Looks perfect! First class! 

Looks perfect! First class! 

Wow! Such great feedback, So I spent today doing some remedial work, Covered off the two big issues. The picture shows the seats set against a narrower lip with a cleat underneath to ensure the cushion doesn't slide off the platform.
 
Some demarcation of the floor boards that can be lifted with some graphic representation of the flush lifting rings, These will be 2 inch ones (1/4") .

 
These will be easy to spin up out of some 1/4 diameter brass.
 
Michael

As fancy as you've gotten with that steam box, might I suggest that you cook up a good sour mash, let it ferment well, and put it in your steam generator. You'll be killing two birds with one stone that way.
 

It does appear that the sole planks in the prototype make provision for easy lifting. The two planks on either side of the saloon table appear to be screw-fastened as I described. The short planks in the galley, the butts of which are not staggered and align with the frames where sole beams or bearers would be fastened to the frames, clearly indicate that they are designed to lift easily. The absence of staggered butts on the sole planking definitely indicates that they are designed for lifting. The seams in the saloon sole may simply appear tight because of the lighting. The seams between the galley sole planks appear more loosely fit and their corners appear rounded a bit, as would be expected for removable sole planks. What caught my eye in your model's sole was its appearing like a finely finished hardwood floor. Constructing it of a single piece for modeling purposes makes perfect sense. You may want to consider cutting seams in your model sole to depict removable planks, though.
 
The partial ceiling planking to port in the forward compartment is also curious. No question it's there, but I wonder why. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose and isn't run forward, so it doesn't seem to be a structural feature. It almost seems as though there may have been a berth or bench there at some point which has been removed. Who knows? Perhaps it just gave a more finished look to the compartment. From a design standpoint, it was always difficult to effectively transition between the formal Edwardian joinerwork of the high style classic yachts and the exposed structure of the vessel itself. Many ceiled and paneled the interiors of the "owners and guests" compartments and abandoned the formal joinerwork entirely in the forepeak where the galley and crews accommodations were located.
 
Also in the forward compartment to port is a vintage copper Pascall Atkey "Pansy" charcoal cabin heater. (They are also available in stainless steel.) These are the coveted Rolls Royces of solid fuel cabin heaters manufactured by the storied Pascall Atkey chandlery (originally "ironmongers") on the Isle of Wight. They were, last I heard, still available from Pascall Atkey on bespoke order and at today's prices probably run $1,500 or more.  If I might prey upon your passion for detail, I'd love to watch you solder up a model of it!  Here's all you need to know to do so:  https://theconstantgaragesale.wordpress.com/portfolio/pascall-atkey-pansy-charcoal-heater/ The photos on this website are of a fairly modern version. The copy of the advertisement is quite old, judging from the prices quoted! 
 
I have a mint condition stainless Pascall Atkey "Pansy" similar to the one pictured in the website stored in my workshop. It was to go in a boat I owned, but I sold the boat before installing the heater and held on to it. I'll get around to listing it on eBay one of these days, i suppose. I pity whoever is tasked with disposing of my "Alladin's Cave" of tools and yacht gear when I inevitably shuffle off this mortal coil! 

Michael, I have to explain that I agonized about posting this comment. Your work on this model is nothing short of spectacular and a joy to behold. i realize the time it takes to maintain a log of this type and build a model at the same time. It probably nearly doubles the time involved, I'm sure. That said, because the level of your work is so high and your interest in accuracy so admirable, I dared post my thoughts, knowing that you may well have sound reasons for the subject of my comment. 
 
As lovely as the cabin sole you've glued up may be, in my not insignificant experience (I once worked for a yacht brokerage specializing in classic wooden vessels,) a cabin sole on a vessel such as yours would invariably be constructed of loose planks of perhaps six or eight inches in width, laid on top of the sole beams with their ends butting over a sole beam. The planks would usually have a finger hole drilled at each end and would be fitted loosely enough that they would not swell tightly and become difficult to lift. Sometimes, if there were a saloon table amidships, the plank or planks upon which the table rested were fastened to the sole beams with unplugged flush screws and the table screwed to those fastened planks. The purpose of leaving the sole planks loose was to afford easy access to the bilges below the sole to permit cleaning and to access the area for stowage. It was not uncommon, particularly in blue water cruising vessels, to take advantage of the bilge spaces to store canned provisions and other gear that didn't need to be immediately available.  The unplugged screws fastening the planks upon which a table was fastened were to permit the easy removal of the screw fastened sole plank to permit repainting the bilge on occasion. 
 
Additionally, one maxim of naval architecture is that the interior of vessels should to the greatest extent possible provide for ready access to the inside of the planking. If a serious leak develops, it is essential that the leak can be located and accessed quickly to control the damage, if possible. 
 
Again, thanks for sharing your build. It's one of the real gems of this forum!
 
 

Have you ever tried leaving the wire coil on the drill bit and then sawing through the whole coil parallel with the drill bit shaft with a jeweler's saw while it's still on the bit, then sliding all the rings off at once? I prefer this method because it leaves the ends of the rings square, which makes joining them together for soldering much easier. I find using a nippers, which I do when I'm only making two or three rings, often leaves the ends of the rings "pinched" with a bevel instead of square. Cutting with a nipper also sometimes sends a ring sailing off into the ozone, as well.

It's really a matter of taste. To my eye, fancy detailed pedestals, posts, and cradles detract from modern models. They are, perhaps, more appropriate for Seventeenth Century ships with lots of "gingerbread." For more modern ships, the less attention that is drawn to the mounting, the better, I say. I often simply use a length of quarter inch bronze brazing rod polished up as a post to mount the model on a nice piece of finished hardwood. This approach seems to show off the underwater lines to the best advantage.

Acetate can be "frosted" by an even sanding of the back side with fine sandpaper. 

Not much at all. Probably about as much difference as there is between a good champagne and a good "sparkling wine." "Stockholm" was simply an appellation." "Stockholm tar" was recognized to be a high quality product. it got it's name because pine tar was a prized essential naval store and the best was thought to be that produced by the company that held the Swedish royal warrant for the monopoly on pine tar exported from Stockholm. There was apparently a lot of international politics involved in who got to buy tar from Stockholm. If a nation was on the outs with Sweden, they had a hard time sourcing good pine tar for their navies. When England ruled the American Colonies, it acquired a similar source of high quality pine tar from the North American pine forests and became independent of Sweden's monopoly on the product. Hence, the settlers in North Carolina came to be called "tar heels."

Actually, all rope was thinly tarred when manufactured. Repeated applications of supplemental tar for maintenance purposes made the cordage darker. I have never heard of bolt ropes being tarred after manufacture. To do so would get the tar all over the sails and handling them in the ordinary course would become rather messy, I'd expect. Bolt ropes were treated as was running rigging. Standing rigging, on the other hand, was routinely tarred to preserve it. Bolt ropes would be the same color as running rigging. As is the case, hemp cordage is darker, tending towards brown, than sisal ("Manila") cordage, which is lighter tending towards golden. I'm guessing hemp running rigging would have been in use in 1790, but there are many far more expert folks in this forum on the subject of Admiralty practices at that time.

Have you ever tried leaving the wire coil on the drill bit and then sawing through the whole coil parallel with the drill bit shaft with a jeweler's saw while it's still on the bit, then sliding all the rings off at once? I prefer this method because it leaves the ends of the rings square, which makes joining them together for soldering much easier. I find using a nippers, which I do when I'm only making two or three rings, often leaves the ends of the rings "pinched" with a bevel instead of square. Cutting with a nipper also sometimes sends a ring sailing off into the ozone, as well.

It's really a matter of taste. To my eye, fancy detailed pedestals, posts, and cradles detract from modern models. They are, perhaps, more appropriate for Seventeenth Century ships with lots of "gingerbread." For more modern ships, the less attention that is drawn to the mounting, the better, I say. I often simply use a length of quarter inch bronze brazing rod polished up as a post to mount the model on a nice piece of finished hardwood. This approach seems to show off the underwater lines to the best advantage.

As fancy as you've gotten with that steam box, might I suggest that you cook up a good sour mash, let it ferment well, and put it in your steam generator. You'll be killing two birds with one stone that way.
 

Michael, I have to explain that I agonized about posting this comment. Your work on this model is nothing short of spectacular and a joy to behold. i realize the time it takes to maintain a log of this type and build a model at the same time. It probably nearly doubles the time involved, I'm sure. That said, because the level of your work is so high and your interest in accuracy so admirable, I dared post my thoughts, knowing that you may well have sound reasons for the subject of my comment. 
 
As lovely as the cabin sole you've glued up may be, in my not insignificant experience (I once worked for a yacht brokerage specializing in classic wooden vessels,) a cabin sole on a vessel such as yours would invariably be constructed of loose planks of perhaps six or eight inches in width, laid on top of the sole beams with their ends butting over a sole beam. The planks would usually have a finger hole drilled at each end and would be fitted loosely enough that they would not swell tightly and become difficult to lift. Sometimes, if there were a saloon table amidships, the plank or planks upon which the table rested were fastened to the sole beams with unplugged flush screws and the table screwed to those fastened planks. The purpose of leaving the sole planks loose was to afford easy access to the bilges below the sole to permit cleaning and to access the area for stowage. It was not uncommon, particularly in blue water cruising vessels, to take advantage of the bilge spaces to store canned provisions and other gear that didn't need to be immediately available.  The unplugged screws fastening the planks upon which a table was fastened were to permit the easy removal of the screw fastened sole plank to permit repainting the bilge on occasion. 
 
Additionally, one maxim of naval architecture is that the interior of vessels should to the greatest extent possible provide for ready access to the inside of the planking. If a serious leak develops, it is essential that the leak can be located and accessed quickly to control the damage, if possible. 
 
Again, thanks for sharing your build. It's one of the real gems of this forum!
 
 

Here's another cheap tool: "Pizza savers." Yes, that's what they are called in the trade. They are those white plastic things that look like round tables with three legs that they put in pizza boxes to keep the top of the box from contacting the melted cheese on the pizza and making a mess when it's delivered. 
 

 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizza_saver
 
These make great "painter's points." A painter's point, which are often pyramid-shaped, but can have other suitable shapes, are used to hold a piece of work that needs painting up above the level of a table so it's top and edges can be painted without coming into contact with the bench top that it's being painted on. These "pizza savers" work great for this purpose. Just turn them upside down so they are standing on the round part and you'll have three pegs sticking up to support whatever you need to paint. Use three or four or more to support your work, of course. So, grab 'em when the pizza comes. In short order you'll have a box of them in the shop to use whenever they're needed. 
 
Store-bought painter's points: No need to waste the money on them anymore.
 

Thousands of years from now, archaeologists will be dumbfounded by those wire springs on clothespins. They'll keep finding them with their metal detectors, but there will be a raging debate over what they were actually used for.  

Acetate can be "frosted" by an even sanding of the back side with fine sandpaper. 

It's really a matter of taste. To my eye, fancy detailed pedestals, posts, and cradles detract from modern models. They are, perhaps, more appropriate for Seventeenth Century ships with lots of "gingerbread." For more modern ships, the less attention that is drawn to the mounting, the better, I say. I often simply use a length of quarter inch bronze brazing rod polished up as a post to mount the model on a nice piece of finished hardwood. This approach seems to show off the underwater lines to the best advantage.

There are advantages to using silver solder. There's a quite a lot of difference between silver solder and the solder they sell for electronic soldering. Silver soldering takes more heat that the "rosin core" solder sold for electronic soldering. Silver solder provides a much stronger joint, for one thing, but is not 'gap filling." The parts to be silver soldered must be actually touching when soldered. Silver soldering is the province of jewelry makers and modelers. Anybody who does any amount of jewelry making or model soldering usually ends up with a Smith Little Torch or an equivalent. (Warning: There are counterfeit Smith Little Torches being sold on eBay and elsewhere that are indistinguishable from the real thing. They are sold for much less and are reportedly no different, although there are complaints about "fit and finish." Buy from Smith directly, or from a reputable jewelry supply house to get the real deal.) These torches can be run on oxygen and propane, acetylene, or mapp gas, as one wishes. The disposable gas bottles are cheap and widely available. They work best for modeling purposes unless you are doing a lot of soldering, at which point one might want to move up to a larger gas tank available from welding supply stores.
 
This is the state of the art tool for the jobs we do on models. There's no need to pay extra for a large selection of tips. The basic tip is fine for modeling purposes. While the real Smith Torch kit is more expensive than butane brazing torches, it is far more capable in terms of heat output because it's running on oxygenated gas mixtures and the heat can be very precisely applied where you want it.  The Smith Little Torch is one of the "industry standards." For my money, I'd go with the Smith torch rather than buy a lesser one that may prove a disappointment. There's lots of content on these torches on YouTube. Check it out.
 
See: https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/miller-electric/imported-mam-assets/spec-sheets/2/d/e/ge200-the-little-torch-kit.pdf