Bob Cleek

Yes, but not as much of a mix as one might think. The hookers have been relatively unchanged for as long as anyone can remember, going back at least as far as the mid-1700's. A recent archaeological find turned up a well-preserved Basque fishing boat of the mid- 1600's which exhibits construction details identical to and previously unknown other than in Irish hookers and these similarities add support to the theory that the Irish hookers may have been derived from Iberian vessels. The west coast of Ireland was, until relatively recent times, very isolated. The very few roads inland were passable only in decent weather and only with horse and donkey-drawn carts until the 20th Century. The land was poor for farming and subsistence fishing was a primary protein source. They were dependent upon seaweed as a soil supplement for subsistence farming. The absence of trees caused peat to be used as fuel and the peat had to be shipped out to the offshore islands, along with everything else, giving the hookers one of their primary reasons for existence which continued commercially until the early 1970's. There still is no rail service. The area was as rural as rural could be and it was one of the few gaeltacht (predominantly "Irish speaking") areas in Ireland when the Republic was formed and remains so, but is dwindling with projections that Irish will cease to be a daily-spoken language anywhere within another ten years or so. It was this isolation, poverty, and "backwardness" that preserved the Irish hookers in a "time warp."
 
Many of the existing "pre-revival" hookers are over a hundred years old, some even 150 years old, having been rebuilt many times over. In the mid-1800's, one hooker building family, the Reneys, seem to have slightly sharpened the forefoot entry, while retaining the rounded "apple bows" higher up. One Reney emigrated to Boston where he eventually opened a boatyard and built Galway hookers in the "Raney style" for the Irish fishermen settling there. (Chapelle calls these "Boston hookers" and claims they were a modified evolution of the Irish hookers, but there is no indication in the history known now that would indicate there was any change in the Boston hookers from the Irish originals built by the same boatbuilder, nor any reason under the sun why there would need to be.) 

You are correct. The "Irish," "Galway" or "Connemara Hooker" is a type of boat and those are broad generic terms for the type. Locally, however, they are referred to by their size classes, Bad mor ("bad more"), leathwad ("la-wad"), gleoiteog ("glow-chug"), and pucan ("poo-con.") They were never built to plans and each has it's own unique details, but what they have in common is their general shape, rig, and construction details. The only accurate plans in the modern form are those taken by researchers from existing tradtionally-built vessels. Joe Murphy has done a set, as has Richard Scott, who's now deceased. If you can find a used copy of Scott's The Galway Hookers at a price you can stomach for a small paperback, I'd urge you to get it because there's a wealth of information in it.  Unfortunately, the drawings for two hookers in Scott's books are printed very small and would have to be enlarged and then redrawn to get much use from them for building anything.
 
The Galway Hooker Association has a good website that's worth keeping an eye on. https://www.galwayhookers.ie/ Someone in the association may be able to connect you with a source of accurate traditional hooker plans, as this association has been involved in building new hookers in recent decades but, as I mentioned, they never were built to plans, so they may be doing it the old fashioned way, since the "hooker revival" is all about the revitalization of Irish culture and language following centuries of British colonial oppression.
 
Most valuable to you would be a copy of a small book called The Galway Hooker (Huiceir na Gaillimhe in Irish, it's text is in both English and Irish on facing pages.) It is one of a three volume set called Shipwrights (Na Saora Bad), the others being on types of currachs. This book is self-published by Cian de Buitlear.  In a pocket within the book is a set of 3 drawings of complete plans, 16 inches x 24 inches at 1/2 inch to the foot scale, with a narrated step by step DVD video of Joe Murphy's building of the gleoiteog, Star of the West, from start to launch. It was published in 2005. I couldn't find it anywhere online. You might want to contact the publisher and see if you can get a copy: Cian de Buitlear, Sruthan, An Cheathru Rua, Co Na Gaillimhe, Ireland. Telephone number: 087 2557 444. Email: ciandebuitlear@eircom.net  This is the only available set of accurate construction plans for an Irish hooker to be found published anywhere.
 
I did notice that there is a new "coffee table" pictorial book out, Huiceiri / Galway Hookers which is described as "mentioning the main building features of this craft, but is probably more "boat porn" than a building manual, although there's nothing wrong with boat porn. At $25 euros, it wouldn't break the bank, but I do have to email them to inquire if it is bilingual or not. ("Huiceiri" means "Hookers" in Irish.)  Check it out if you want: https://www.seanchaieditions.com/our-publications/books/huiceiri-galway-hookers

Very clever approach to planking first and removing the bulkheads! Your hull has a nice shape.
 
I'm not sure to what extent you are planning to display your framing, but you might want to take a closer look at the framing detail. While there is one set of construction drawings on the internet done by Nick Branson (https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/26ft-galway-hooker-pucan-to-build.40781/) which shows a simple half-lap scarf to join futtocks to create a single frame, these plans have been "modernized" and do not employ the traditional, and very distinctive, framing and other construction methods and scantlings of the traditional Irish hookers. There are no steamed frames in a traditionally-built Irish hooker.  Hookers have sawn frames.The molded depth of the frames is perhaps twice their sided width.  Peculiarly, the futtocks are staggered. There is a floor timber (no keelson) from which which three overlapping futtocks rise, alternating to one side or the other.  Their ends are cut at an angle and fastened with a bolt and four nails holding them where they overlap. These overlaps are lined up in a fair line fore and aft. Frames far forward and far aft are canted and, where their shape allows in the bow, may be sawn from a single timber. One might overlook this detail for the sake of "artistic license," but as it is so distinctive a construction feature, and one that reaches back in a straight line perhaps as much as 300 or more years to its likely Basque antecedents, you may wish to depict this feature accurately in your model. 
 
This series of three videos contains a fair amount of detail on the construction of the traditional hooker. You can hit "pause" when you see a hooker in frame and study how the futtocks are placed. 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3R4ZdW3trY
 
 
 
 

The original post was titled "chisels," but his last comments asked for input on buying lathes and mills. Cleek's Law No. 6: "Any discussion thread addressing any tool on internet modeling sites will inevitably devolve to a mention of lathes."  

I keep a fine edge by stropping.  I am using FlexCut Gold on my leather, but green is probably just as effective.  Strop after every few cuts and a visit to a stone should be a sometime thing.

The original post was titled "chisels," but his last comments asked for input on buying lathes and mills. Cleek's Law No. 6: "Any discussion thread addressing any tool on internet modeling sites will inevitably devolve to a mention of lathes."  

The original post was titled "chisels," but his last comments asked for input on buying lathes and mills. Cleek's Law No. 6: "Any discussion thread addressing any tool on internet modeling sites will inevitably devolve to a mention of lathes."  

The original post was titled "chisels," but his last comments asked for input on buying lathes and mills. Cleek's Law No. 6: "Any discussion thread addressing any tool on internet modeling sites will inevitably devolve to a mention of lathes."  

The original post was titled "chisels," but his last comments asked for input on buying lathes and mills. Cleek's Law No. 6: "Any discussion thread addressing any tool on internet modeling sites will inevitably devolve to a mention of lathes."  

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

Ahh how I miss my shop, my house burned down in a wild fire a few years ago and my shop went with it. I don’t have space or time any more for a full size shop but your advise holds true, buy the tools that will do the most work for you now. 
 
Bradley

I am fortunate to have space for a dedicated shop equipped with full sized woodworking tools.  Used on a day to day basis in order:  Drill press, 10in table saw (an 8in saw would be almost as useful),  4in jointer, scroll saw, band saw, lathe and milling column.
 
I own a Byrnes saw, but so far have never really learned how to use it well.  Before starting my next model project, I intend to tune it up, and learn how to make it work for me.  As it stands now, for ripping anything thicker than say 1/4 in thick I use my full sized saw.
 
I have little natural manual dexterity so I often find myself making jigs, fixtures, and guides, hence my use of a wide variety of full sized tools.
 
Also, in 50 years of adult ship model building I find that interests and opportunities have pushed me into other activities as well  requiring different tools.  For example, given several derelict wood canvas canoes to restore I found that I needed to mill local rough cut native white cedar into rib and planking stock.  This required access to a planer so I bought one of the portable ones.  Although I seldom use it, it was also essential for milling a pile of locally harvested rough pear for future ship modeling projects.  Over the years I have also built 10 glass cases for ship models.  Each of these required use of my large table saw and my jointer.
 
The point of all this; If you are outfitting a shop, even if you think that you are just going to build ship models for the next 50 years, first spend your money on tools that can be used for a variety of projects.
 
Roger
 
 

I almost forgot to mention that you will spend far more money over time on tooling for a metal lathe than you will the lathe. Say you buy a 750 USD metal lathe, expect to spend at least 100 on a very basic set of tooling unless it comes with your set up like @Bob Cleek mentioned. The grizzly model is not a bad option if you want all the basics included. If you do get a metal lathe I recommend learning to make your own tools very quickly because you will spend way more on tooling than any thing else. 
 
at least you have the holy trinity as I call it lol. (Byrnes table saw, thickness sander, and disk sander) honestly I would invest in a better scroll saw or a band saw if you plan to only use the lathe for modeling. I love my lathe and use it all the time but that’s because I make all sorts of stuff, not just for modeling. 
 
Bradley

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

I lived for many years without a lathe or mill before I acquired a good used 12X42" Atlas lathe with extensive tooling for an amazing price. It has a milling attachment and I've never needed a bigger mill for what I do. I also have a Unimat SL modeler's lathe which converts to a mill. There are a very few things that cannot be done without them, but they aren't things that need doing all that often. You can do milling on a lathe with the right tooling. You can't do turning on a mill as you can on a lathe. In the world of wooden ship modeling, you don't need a lathe or a mill, but if you want to seriously scratch-build in wood, you do want to have accurate miniature wood-working power tools and that means "the trifecta:" the Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander, plus a decent drill press and a shop vacuum. Next, you'll want a decent scroll saw, not a cheapo model. If you want to mill your own wood from the tree, you'll need a 14" band saw. Only then should you start lusting after a lathe or a mill. Focusing on acquiring the table saw and thickness sander first is essential these days. Pre-milled stock is getting harder and harder to find and I, for one, am convinced it will soon be unobtainable at a price any sane person would want to spend. The wood you can get for nothing out of an old apple or holly tree and the like will quickly pay for that saw and thickness sander right out of the gate.
 
One thing that can't be said too often or too loudly to the uninitiated: don't underestimate the cost of the tooling essential to use machine tools like lathes and mills. In order to get the use most expect from their lathes and mills, you will have to spend at least as much on tooling as you did on the lathe or mill itself. Even the fancy package deals that advertise all the "comes with" tooling provide only the most basic of tooling and often not the best quality at that. For this reason, the Chinese Sieg 7X lathes, preferably from a vendor that will guarantee quality control (e.g. Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, etc.) are probably your best bet in terms of bang for your buck because, since there are so many of them in circulation, their tooling is more available and less expensive. Taig and Sherline are great machines, but they are much lighter than the Siegs and so more limited in their abilities and the cost of their tooling is wicked expensive. (Proxxon has its fans, but I find their tools priced far higher than their quality warrants.) You really don't want to spend the $1,500 to buy even an entry-level lathe or mill and their essential tooling that is going to sit on your shelf 99% of the time while you try to scratch build without a Byrnes table saw, thickness sander and disk sander. 

Before you jump to a mass market sort of mill, you may wish to visit littlemachineshop.com and at least look at the $800 Sieg.  A wider view of the field can be useful.
Also, expenditure on accessories may be greater than that of the original machine.

I tried a lot of different knives and 2 categories are very interesting:
 
For the lathe and the mill, there is no need at the beginning. A metal lathe can do everything a wood lathe can do, so it is a waste to buy a wood lathe

i have the byrnes table saw , the disk sander and the thickness sander , a cheapish scroll saw that works and an oscillating drum sander , plus various hand tools . i bought the table saw after  selling the micro mark one that i bought and used once , it was horrible . thats when i realised that you have to pay for quality tools , thank you flr all the suggestions i will look into the rasp 
 
 

If you do not contemplate manufacturing your own metal tools, then neither a mill nor a lathe will prove to be an economical expenditure.
The parts of a hull that they will produce are relatively few.  If you are going with a larger scale and mostly leaving the outer planking off, there may be more work for a mill.
The probability is that both tools will mostly sit, looking for a job, if it is only wood that they will be used on.  
For fabricating metal tools, both are vital.
 
A Byrnes table saw, disk sander,  and a drum sanding table and an accurate drill press come far ahead of these two tools.
Serious POF probably means that you will have to be your own sawmill.  In which case - a big boy bandsaw and Byrnes thickness sander slip in ahead of them.

I absolutely agree with Jim! Buy cheap and repent at leisure.
 
If you can't afford a full set of quality chisels, just buy two different sizes and add to as needed and budget affords. You won't regret it.
 
As for internal frame fairing, I simply use a shallow Pfeil palm gouge, then shaped sanding blocks. Not chisels.

Anthony
 
Good chisels are expensive.  I have a full set of Pfeil intermediate chisels, expensive but I don't think there are any better than that.  Have had them for 25 years and still as sharp as new.  I also have a miniature set from the Russian fellow that sells them on this forum somewhere, they are also excellent.  My 3rd set is  from Lee Valley in Canada,  Hirsch micro carving chisels.  They are also excellent and I use them the most for all the tiny stuff. In my opinion, stay away from the cheap budget tools. 
 
regards
Jim

I've heard of ships carrying grindstones as ballast to places where they might be sold, but I've never heard of jettisoned grindstones being recovered over the course of my forty-plus years of familiarity with maritime archaeology in the S.F. Bay Area. During the last of the Nineteenth and beginning of the Twentieth Centuries, the large "ocean carriers," mainly four-masted barks and ships such as Balclutha, primarily carried grain grown in the Central Valley of California to Europe and, finding cargoes wanting on the return leg from Europe to California, required balasting. They would carry cobblestones quarried in Europe, called "Belgian block," that were off-loaded at San Francisco and used to pave the streets of the City. Many are still in place, though often now covered in asphalt. They are pulled up when streets are rebuilt and were once resold as construction material. I once owned a home with a twelve foot high living room wall built of them. Today, the City realizes their value and has an ordinance requiring all cobblestones removed from the streets to be retained for reuse by the City itself for historic restorations and the like.