Jean-Pierre

I'm afraid you are right. I suspect that they brought out a little too many models in a short period of time, some of which, although beautifully made, were rather uninteresting. It's a pity that HMS Surprise did not make it to the shelves, and now I suppose it's too late.  A 74 gun ship would still be selling well though.
 
I think there might be some financial issues and that's too bad.  They also ran an inquiry if I remember well, to know if their wood should be replaced with some better quality... and this may have induced some doubts about the quality of their current wood.
 
Anyw

I'm afraid you are right. I suspect that they brought out a little too many models in a short period of time, some of which, although beautifully made, were rather uninteresting. It's a pity that HMS Surprise did not make it to the shelves, and now I suppose it's too late.  A 74 gun ship would still be selling well though.
 
I think there might be some financial issues and that's too bad.  They also ran an inquiry if I remember well, to know if their wood should be replaced with some better quality... and this may have induced some doubts about the quality of their current wood.
 
Anyw

Anyway, let's hope they 'll be back soon.
 
I also know that their "main" activity is the radio controlled plastic hull ships, a field where they definitely were market leaders.  But there again, there isn't much new to be seen.

Hello Andy. If you would like to do some extra detailing that is not too difficult (I could!), and which will greatly enhance your build:
cover each side of your large roof with a piece of cellophane, painted matt black on the inside. Then use the thinnest available wood or paper strip to frame your windows. Then make tiny strips of plastic. Carefully (of course) pile them per 3 and make 3 regularly spaced holes. Paint them dark brown and glue them on the sides of the windows. Then insert thin brass rods cut flush with the exterior side. Fairly straightforward and surely within range of your skills: this is a very eye catching item on a model.
 
Good luck! You are about to start the rigging: do not hesitate to use a range of different thicknesses and colours of thread, from grey to buff, this will also add life to your rigging (try not to use too thick threads)

I agree with this, of course, but why making it extra difficult by cutting the planks, while scoring them would give a safer butt joint and will look exactly the same?

What a great choice of a model, a pleasant change from the Victory, and probably an eve, more beautiful ship.  Congratulations.
 
Mamoli may not be the best provider of woods, but I had excellent (and easy) results by just running a felt tip black marker along one of the sides of each plank, but NOT on the butt ends or the ink would bleed into the wood.  For these I use a black pencil on both ends of the plank.  Also note that for a clean result, the plank sides should be slightly sanded to get a nice, flat edge.
 
A mix of different plank colours looks beautiful on a model, but it was not like that on the real thing I'm afraid.  I must admit I did just the same as you on my last model, but afterwards I found the contrast too sharp.  So after sanding, I painted the whole deck with a very light grey wash which preserved all the detail and also toned down the exagerated colour differences.
 
Thanks for the excellent build log and I'm looking forward to your pics.
 
Happy modelling
 
JP
 
As a general problem, I wonder if decks in those days were planked with nicely parallel planks.  On the full size reconstruction of Hermione (a frigate that was more or less contemporary to the Royal Louis, the planks are taperes gradually to end up parallel to the ship sides.  The same layout has been used by Chris Watton for his kit of the Russian Mercury (Victory/Amati Models). I felt free to use this pattern on my last model (Dutch Whaler), and it turned out easier than I had thought...  Just a thought, because your planking looks great.

This is still a very nice model, although it is more than half a century old.
 
By the way, in my teenager years, I got interested in ship modeling by this model, which was on exhibition on an advertising display for... Cutty Sark Whiskey.  I was then particularly impressed by the brass chains on the bowsprit.  But of course I have improved my criteria since then.  So did you as you tinted those chains.  Excellent job. Special thanks for sharing this one.
 
JP
 

well done, Dick.
Beautiful model with a lot of detail.

Since no log can be deemed complete without some overall photos of the finished model, mine are attached here.
 
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have followed this build, who have hit the "like" button, and, particularly, those who have provided their support and encouragement through their generous thoughts and comments. It is gratifying to have such an appreciative response from such a talented and accomplished group of modelers. Thanks again.
 
I hope to see you all on my new log for Prince de Neufchatel, which will be opened a little later today.
 
Bob

What a splendid model! Congratulations to Master Corabel for an excellent kit, and to you for the excellent miniature you made out of it.

MK0301 Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship Kit 1/72
 
Wooden ship model kit
 
Recommended Age Range 8+
 
 
Article: MK0301
Scale: 1/72
The dimensions of the finished model (the ship) -  35,0 * 15,0 * 30,0 cm / 13.78 x 5.9 x 11.81 in (Length x width x height, cm)
Dimensions of the box - 38 * 24,0 * 5,5 (Length x width x height, cm)
 
Museum Quality. 2016 World Ship-modelling Championship Winner - Gold Medal
Complete Do it Yourself assembly kit
Ship wooden kit features:
· All hull planking and details are laser cut
· Double planking
· The marked bevel on frames
· A special hull design that compensates the materials deformation
· Detailed photo instruction and drawings
· Patterns and cloth for the sail sewing. You can also buy ready-made sails: MK0301-S Sails for Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship model kit, scale 1/72
Made in Russia, shipped from US fast.
Instructions are in Russian and English, include many pictures!
 

This build is too beautiful to miss.  Congratulations for these tiny items.  I'll follow this log, if you don't mind.

Scott, let me wish you ...and your models, a successful move, and a safe settling for your marine treasures
.

Excellent result!! And I guess you enjoyed this build.  Hope the next project will come soon, as this build was a pleasure to follow.

Excellent result!! And I guess you enjoyed this build.  Hope the next project will come soon, as this build was a pleasure to follow.

Your dad's question is typical and mostly is the friendliest a non-initiated can do!  tThe underlying question is rather "how can you spend so much time on such a futile project... but there usually also is some respect in the question.  Coming from your own dad, maybe the best answer would be: "dad, you know pretty well where I got the patience from..."
 
Well done, and now: back to work!
 
JP

Your dad's question is typical and mostly is the friendliest a non-initiated can do!  tThe underlying question is rather "how can you spend so much time on such a futile project... but there usually also is some respect in the question.  Coming from your own dad, maybe the best answer would be: "dad, you know pretty well where I got the patience from..."
 
Well done, and now: back to work!
 
JP

Another step forward. Have completed quarterdeck rail with swivel gun posts. 
With the foredeck swivel guns posts I have copied the rear post as to how they sit in conjunction with the trim running along the side of the ship - so as to keep everything the same. Sorry for maybe not being historically correct - on the instructions the front posts overlap the trim.
Side steps and fenders in place.
Also have changed the spindles on the quarterdeck gangways as I did not like the kit supplied ones. Hopefully these look a bit better.
 



 
Thank you simonthepieman and Spyglass for looking in and your comments and all the likes from others.
 
 
Regards
 
Doug
 
 

There is one point to consider about the sails, I think: the "high" rig that you prefer will also be very cumbersome and require a huge glass case. I would personally go for the 2nd type which is also very beautiful in my opinion and need a considerably less high case.
 

A drink or two?  I tried this while planking my last deck.  But then for some reason, the quality of my planking decreased progressively....

What a beautiful build!  What a beautiful ship.  Your model proves once again that there is no necessity of a bunch of guns to make a spectacular model.  I look forward to the rest of your build.  Thanks for sharing.
 
Happy modelling
 
JP

I should add to my former post that I do use partial length planks... to save on wood strips.  This has had the advantage that I have never run out of hull planking wood so far.  But I have taken care to have the butt joints only where the planks are full width.

Why not upgrading an existing model:  I mean the model Shipways Flying Fish, a beautiful ship, and a potentially beautiful model, but rarely finished! (Probably because the kit is not quite up to modern standards)

Why not upgrading an existing model:  I mean the model Shipways Flying Fish, a beautiful ship, and a potentially beautiful model, but rarely finished! (Probably because the kit is not quite up to modern standards)

I agree with this, of course, but why making it extra difficult by cutting the planks, while scoring them would give a safer butt joint and will look exactly the same?