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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. A link is not a copy as it takes you to the original.
  2. You are probably correct in assuming the photos with the common background that never changes or moves from ship photo to ship photo are altered photos. As for actually knowing for certain on a given photo, that's a tough call without having the glass negatives or even the original print. My grandfather did a lot of glass negative photos and from the print, it would be hard to see that they were retouched such as removing blemishes from faces. You would need the negative to see where that work had been done. We may think their efforts were crude compared to modern retouching but they were, for the most part, pretty clever and darn good at it.
  3. Very well done, B.E. It probably wasn't easy (it wouldn't for me anyway) but the shading gives the decorations an extra "pop".
  4. I moved this to the appropriate area.
  5. Bob, If you will, go to the bottom of page 3 (https://modelshipworld.com/forum/89-cross-section-build-logs-for-hms-triton/page/3/) and you'll see two topics that have "repost by moderator) on time. Both are excellent for guidance on this project. Footnote, the original tutorial for this was long ago lost during the "Great Crash" many years ago, but those two logs are a pretty good guide. Justin, Sounds like a good plan. You have the skills as shown here by your build.
  6. If you haven't done so, have look in the planking tutorials area and read them. They'll go a long way in helping you. Also there's some tools in this folder like the planking fan to help- And heres's more: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
  7. This is exactly what the Triton build was designed for... a learning experience for scratch building fully framed models. Just remember though, that the cross-section model and the full hull version do have differences so don't mix the plans up.
  8. Excellent work. As a learning project, you seem to be doing that very well. Lots to be learned and also discovered in this project.
  9. The battle at Fort Donelson pointed out quite a few issues with the ironclads. Plunging fire from the fort and not able to return fire since the guns couldn't be elevated enough were the two biggest ones. Followed by the width and depth of the river as well as the tight curves below the fort and within cannon range. I believe that the officers involved figured the ironclads could get the fort to surrender just by being there. But the river being rather narrow and the terrain were not in their favor.
  10. I can't help with the plans but maybe with the wood. I looked through my bookmarks and found this one... https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/plywood They don't have the sizes you need but do have some that are "close". You can source ply from a lot of places that are not metric and those might work with some "adjustment" such as ply being a bit thicker than what the kit supplied. Sometimes "close" is as good as we can do....
  11. Count me in. The F-15 was always a favorite of mine. I did some of the manual for flight simulator for the AF way back in time and seeing it at air shows was always great. I do see them here where I am now occassionally. Something about hearing it roar on take off and climb straight up like a rocket just takes my breath away.
  12. Welcome to MSW, Dearborn. Do start a log as others have suggested. Your model is looking good.
  13. Would "repair time" be a factor then? I think it might be faster for repairs to replace the rope on the Hammock Rails than all the wood.
  14. We had a question the other day about that site being blocked from a member in the UK. It was working here in the States but not from the UK. They may very well be "open" but the restrictions by not just governments, but companies like credit cards may block any transfer of funds. The situation is still developing and more sanctions may be coming.
  15. From here, it sounds like the line was coated with something... shellac, varnish, clearcoat paint or even glue. By "come off" do you mean broken or just off the belaying point?
  16. Rudy, Have you had a look at the planking tutorials here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ They should help answer your questions.
  17. Welcome to MSW, Deacon. Your photo shows some lovely work. I hope you'll consider opening a build log on your model so we can follow along.
  18. Have you tried a very thin CA to impregnate wood the size you need? Otherwise, it sounds like you'll need to go to plastic.
  19. You might ping Denis @popeye the sailor. He's been doing a lot with making decals.
  20. Sorry to hear of the injury, Eric. Just follow the medical advice is your best action.
  21. Have you looked into builds in the kit area? Many, not just the Mikasa, use aftermarket wooden decks. What I've observed while not having done a plastic ship model is decades, is that many of the molded bits have to be removed as aftermarket parts (PE usually) replace them.
  22. And, breathes a sigh of relief, repairs have been completed. The replacement PE went well. There's one piece by friend is still struggling with but from here, it's not that big a deal. The eyebolts for the guns are super tiny to me but doing one port at a time with heavy magnification, I'll get them done. It's also encouraging me to give the deadeyes and their hardware another go.
  23. Beautiful work and yes, building models is an excellent distraction. I hope all stays well for you and your family.
  24. Welcome to MSW, John. Do read the suggested topics especially the one by Edward to start "small". And no matter what you decide to build, open a log. It's the best way to meet other modelers and also get help.
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