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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    Another quick shot of primer, then I added a rubrail of .020" square styrene.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Yes, that would be interesting - Justin is a good friend of mine. However, my purpose is to make a display model for our gallery. It will have a water base, but not a real diorama.
  3. MrBlueJacket
    And after a quick wet sanding with 220 paper
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the first coat of primer
  5. MrBlueJacket
    I should show you what I'm replacing. Damage you can see, and things like the caprail is half unglued, etc.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    Like I said, most of it is sanded off.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    First item is to fill some tiny holes in the hull casting. Most of what you see will be sanded off.
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Our Wendameen display model is really getting, shall I say, tattered. It was never cased and 20+ years of being exposed really shows. So I'm going to build another one to replace it. I didn't bother with the whole kit, nor did I take any rigging, wire, or eyebolts because I have plenty. Here's the rest of the kit contents. First, the plans Next comes the hull, laser-cut caprail, and the fittings. FInally, the wood package
  9. MrBlueJacket
    Hmmm...... Believe the laser cut pieces, we're going to adjust the drawing. Nic
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Hi Josh, The hinges are cast pieces. They look like this and you will need to bend them into hinge shape. Nic
  11. MrBlueJacket
    And here they are in their final resting place.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    Bend the traveller to shape and trial fit into the holes. Then dip the ends into CA and insert.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    BlueJacket has the lobsters. They are Britannia castings, 1/2" scale. i painted them in Army Helo Drab, then dry-brushed flat red. Followed by gloss clear.
  14. MrBlueJacket
    To go along with the traps, I made a lobster holding box and populated it.
  15. MrBlueJacket
    Very credible job, Nathan. A little putty and you'll have a fine hull. I can recommend these fillers: Auto glazing putty Bondo Wall spackle plaster if Paris I would stay away from carpenter's fillers, they dry too hard to sane evenly with the softer basswood. Nic PS - nice to see you last week.
  16. MrBlueJacket
    I have found that a rope coil can hide a multitude of sins.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    And here is the finished product, and another shot of it on display.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Actually, there is a 4th option - re-cut the handles. But being so delicate, I didn't want to risk it. So my option #3 is to put the end of the oars somewhere where it is not easy to see that the handles are missing, like under a thwart.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the dory with thwarts and caprail painted.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    Did I say they are delicate? While sanding them, two handles broke off. This leads me to several choices: 1- get more lasered oars (advantage of working here) 2- only show 2 oars on the boat 3-get creative and find a way to hide the error I'm deciding on #3. I think it will work.
  21. MrBlueJacket
    Next comes the oars. They are lasered in 1/16" basswood, and are very delicate. Raw piece and sanded piece.
  22. MrBlueJacket
    Now for the thole pins. I'm making them from .020 brass rod. First, I cut them long and install them through the caprail. Next step is to trim them to length. I'm using a 1/16" x 1/8" scrap of wood as the guide. And here's the trimmed thole pins.
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Gripe and gunwale installed.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    Start adding the frame pieces. All the frame pieces in and the thwarts.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    A little sanding to bevel the stem, transom, and bottom so the sides can lay on a flat surface. Trim the first side, and add the other side, remove from building jig and sand to final shape.

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