ianmajor

Funnels rigged and added. I can now add the final deck fittings, the anchor chains etc, then start on the masts, finish up the railings then some side details. The last bit will be the guns.

You are right about holding down pieces. In many instances I found my fingers the most versatile clamps, actually 
 
I have been thinking about this, but left it to the actual practical experience, to see what is needed. For very thin strips and wires I made a little holding device for the micro-grinder a while ago, that I can also use on this contreivance here:
 

 
If I was to make this gadget again, I think I would change the design sligtly. Rather than having the sanding block moving in a channel, I would make some sort of rail and cut a slot into the sanding block that engages with the rail. This would give more flexibility in the kind of sanding tools to be used. For instance, I am thinking of adapting a fine diamond nail-file for the purpose. I have used such nail-files for decades in my workshop as they give a very smooth finish. However, I am not sure how cut the files to size and drill them without ruining my tools 
 
Anyway, this is a first attempt at miniaturising a gadget I saw somewhere and adapt it to my small-scale work.

Although I recently constructed a micro-grinder and –sander (http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/microgrinder.html), I found that some hand-sanding device would be desirable for very delicate operations. Sometimes just a few strokes would be sufficient and the process would be difficult to control with a motor-driven machine. A guided sanding block allows to achieve flat and square edges.
 

 
After some rummaging in my collected stocks I found a piece of aluminium rail with a T-slot at one end (I don't remember its original purpose), a piece of thick aluminium sheet, some square aluminium stock, and a well-seasoned piece of pinewood of just the right dimensions (5 cm x 8 cm x 2 cm).
 

 
Holes were marked out, drilled and countersunk for the pieces to be screwed down onto the wooden block. The four sides of the wooden block were squared off in the milling machine with the aluminium pieces in place. The wooden block then was carefully levelled in the machine-vise and a slot milled into the aluminium as a guide for the sanding block. Finally the surface was evened with some light cuts with a fly-cutter.
 

 
A mitre-guide was fashioned from a piece of flat steel. It can be mounted left or right and in different configurations.
 

 
The sanding block is fashioned from some 8 mm x 8 mm square aluminium stock. It has shallow recesses milled into both sides to allow for the thickness of the sanding paper. A knurled screw M3 serves as handle. to begin with a glued a strip of 600 grit wet-'n'-dry paper onto one side and a strip of plastic coated with abrasives as used by dentists for grinding and polishing teeth onto the other side.
 

Part 17
 
Scaling
 
Well, it looks like I may have to continue this thread. I came across a new operation, that will be of interest to everyone.
 
One feature SketchUp lacks, in its native functions, is Scaling of a model. It has a stretch operation, but it is difficult to use, especially if scaling in more than one axis is desired.
 
Now that I have finished both the 1/32nd, and 1/64th scale versions of the dredge frame, I wanted to combine one model of each into a single file, so that I could print a test sample with one of each in it.
 
1/64th scale version.
 

 
1/32nd scale version.
 

 
Looking through the available extensions/plug-ins, I found one that suits the bill! s4u_ScaleTool.
 
This plug-in lets you rescale your part, by
 
Distance: Push/Pull with mouse, or you can enter the distance value, like when drawing lines and figures. Ratio: 2 – twice as big, 0.5 – half size. Fixed Length Reset Scale.  
You can only scale one axis at a time, but the function lets you select which axis, so you just have to do it three times, once for each axis. This gives you consistent results, which is much harder to do with the stretch function.
 

 

 
After installing, the menu below will be added:
 

 
Here is the drawing with both models combined into one file. As both parts were originally drawn full size, both are shown the same size in this drawing. I need to make the right hand part, the one that will be 1/64th scale, half the size of the 1/32nd scale part on the left.
 

 
I will be using the Ratio function. I have not used the other types, but you can experiment with them.
 
So, I selected the right hand part, for shrinking, then I selected Ratio (second from left). The following window pops up.
 

 

 
The default is 2, twice the original size, and the Z Axis for the operation to be performed on.
 
I entered 0.5, and hit OK.
 

 
The part is now 50% thinner.
 

 
Next I repeated the scaling, but selected the Y Axis.
 

 

 
And finally the X Axis.
 
The right hand part is now the correct size, in proportion to the left hand one.
 

 
After some clean up and aligning the parts so they are in the same horizontal plain along the bottom, I have this, the file I sent to the printer’s.
 
I also moved the right hand part so that the far end of the two horizontal bars, are 128 inches from the front most part of the nose on the left hand part. When I scale the parts at the printers, the total length will be 4 inches, using 1/32 as that overall size. This gives me a 1/32 left hand part, and a 1/64th right hand part.
 

 
I’ve sent the file to the printer’s and I’m waiting to see if it passes their manual check. Even if it doesn’t, I’ll still have it printed, to see what it looks like, then make the corrections needed. I think the 1/32nd part will be Ok, the 1/64th may need changes.

Good morning everyone
 
standing riggng continues, I put the Bumpkins in and secured them into place with a bracket, I have managed to get quite confused where some of the lines get secured, like the Jib out haulers, and the 4 main stays, so that is work in progress, 
now i am going to move aft and start the main mast upper shrouds

Once again, thank you for checking in and for your positive comments.
 
Progress today was slow. The tholes took more time than expected due to chipping as I parted them off the stock. I suppose about 40 were made, to finally end up with 24 useable ones. So it goes sometimes!
 
It is finally time to consider the coach. I realized that the panelled sides need to be inset, or they would overlap the sheer strake and gunwale considerably. This means cutting down the uppermost strake aft. The is a job for tomorrow when I'm fresh! I gave the aftermost part of this strake a preparatory coat of blue paint, but I'm having second thoughts and may change this to black. The draught indicates a dark color here, but no more.

Thanks again, folks. No further finish on the surface of the base is necessary, Tom.
 
The latest progress has been slow. Making and installing the gunwale was tricky. It is a scale 2½" wide by ¾" deep. That translates to about 3/64" by 1/64" full size. I cut this to shape from sheet Castello and carefully rounded the outer edge with fine sandpaper. The gunwale was carefully glued to the upper edge of the sheer strake and frame tops.
 
At the bow, where the fore deck is flush to the upper side of the gunwale, revision was needed. I sanded off the paint and applied a very narrow strip of Castello over the sheer strake to match the rest of the gunwale. As masking off the top accurately would be almost impossible, I scribed the line dividing the painted area and re-painted the deck. 

Pat and Piet, thanks for looking in and all the likes.
 
Piet, re hardening the mild steel - I only use mild steel for infrequently used tools that will be used on soft(ish) wood which I don't bother hardening. Perhaps I should have mentioned hardening here. For tools that require more demanding use I use tool steel which I harden and temper. 
 
Pre-empting the question on how to harden steel (not from Piet) there is a good description <here>. 

John and Mike, thanks for your replies.
 
John looking at your suggestion I could push the "Option 1" front forward. I was looking to keep the distance between the front support and the rear scroll to be the same as the distance between the two scrolls. As you point out that is not the case with the NMM 6th rate model so pushing it forward should do the trick.
 
An interesting thing about the NMM model is that it is not the usual Admiralty type. The NMM notes say that it is ballasted with a lead keel suggesting that it is a sailing model.
 
I look forward to seeing how you get on with your fresh supply of pear wood. I love the smell of wood freshly cut from fruit trees. Takes me back to my Father's plum orchard.
 
Looking back at the swivel posts I thought you might be interested in how I "turned" the circular top part. I made a rose bit to do this. They are not hard to produce, only needing a drill press, bits, files and some mild still rod to make.
 
Below are some photos of how I did it. The first four are of an experimental one for use in a holder but show the basic process.
 
I had a 2cm piece of 10mm diameter mild steel to hand for this. I filed the ends square then drilled deeply the centre of the end. The diameter of this hole determines the diameter of (in this case) the end of the post.
 

 
I then drilled the centre of the other end with a larger bit most of the way through leaving a couple of mm's length of the smaller diameter hole. This is to stop the work binding in the hole particularly if using a rose bit to produce dowling.
 

 
I then used a fine blade saw to cut a shallow cross on the small diameter hole end. The middle of the cross being the centre of the hole. This was to act as a guide to filing.
 
Next I used a permanent marker to blue the end. Then with the rod in the vice with the small hole upper most and I filed the ends with the file at the angle shown in the next photo. The file was kept to the right of each saw cut.
 

 
I continued filing each face until the blueing between the file mark and the next saw cut just disappears. The next photo shows two faces approaching this point.
 

 
When all four faces have been treated this way you are ready to go. Here is the one I used on the posts.
 

 
The way I used it was first to cut around the post, using a knife, at the point where the round part of the post meets the square part - this acts as a stop cut. I bevelled the end of the post very slightly then simply used the rose bit like a pencil sharpener. (Cue gasps of horror from the guys who do things properly). 
 
Actually, when I get around to it I am going to make a holder for my rose bits to go on to the tool post of my lathe. I will be able to make fairly long lengths of brass and wood doweling in a variety of sizes.
 
Rose bits have been around a very long time. Another example of their use in MSW can found in <Garward's Montanes log> . There he makes the end of the cannon axles by putting the rose bit in the lathe chuck and mounting the axle in the tool post.
 
Unless disaster strikes I should have a set of 26 rail supports machined up by tomorrow - that or a pile of splinters.

Paul,  that looks a very fine piece of work that you have done.
 
You have identified Gill Middleton's log which I regard as one of the finest on this forum. If you have not already done so I would suggest having a look at Dafi's Victory <here>  . It is based on a Heller plastic kit which may not immediately seem relevant to your wooden build but he has done a lot of research into the detail of Victory's construction which he documents here. He also creates various tableaux with figures to show how the ship was operated. If nothing else it is a fascinating read.
 
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Paul,  that looks a very fine piece of work that you have done.
 
You have identified Gill Middleton's log which I regard as one of the finest on this forum. If you have not already done so I would suggest having a look at Dafi's Victory <here>  . It is based on a Heller plastic kit which may not immediately seem relevant to your wooden build but he has done a lot of research into the detail of Victory's construction which he documents here. He also creates various tableaux with figures to show how the ship was operated. If nothing else it is a fascinating read.
 
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Nice to recieve such quick replies, thanks for your compliments.
 
@ Ian: I studied Dafi's Victory. Nice piece of work indeed!
@ Kevin: I won't. It will be done during the painting of the hull.
 
regards, Paul

Paul,  that looks a very fine piece of work that you have done.
 
You have identified Gill Middleton's log which I regard as one of the finest on this forum. If you have not already done so I would suggest having a look at Dafi's Victory <here>  . It is based on a Heller plastic kit which may not immediately seem relevant to your wooden build but he has done a lot of research into the detail of Victory's construction which he documents here. He also creates various tableaux with figures to show how the ship was operated. If nothing else it is a fascinating read.
 
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Paul,  that looks a very fine piece of work that you have done.
 
You have identified Gill Middleton's log which I regard as one of the finest on this forum. If you have not already done so I would suggest having a look at Dafi's Victory <here>  . It is based on a Heller plastic kit which may not immediately seem relevant to your wooden build but he has done a lot of research into the detail of Victory's construction which he documents here. He also creates various tableaux with figures to show how the ship was operated. If nothing else it is a fascinating read.
 
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Hartmut,
 
That is very impressive. Nice work.

Pat and Piet, thanks for looking in and all the likes.
 
Piet, re hardening the mild steel - I only use mild steel for infrequently used tools that will be used on soft(ish) wood which I don't bother hardening. Perhaps I should have mentioned hardening here. For tools that require more demanding use I use tool steel which I harden and temper. 
 
Pre-empting the question on how to harden steel (not from Piet) there is a good description <here>. 

Hartmut,
 
That is very impressive. Nice work.

John and Mike, thanks for your replies.
 
John looking at your suggestion I could push the "Option 1" front forward. I was looking to keep the distance between the front support and the rear scroll to be the same as the distance between the two scrolls. As you point out that is not the case with the NMM 6th rate model so pushing it forward should do the trick.
 
An interesting thing about the NMM model is that it is not the usual Admiralty type. The NMM notes say that it is ballasted with a lead keel suggesting that it is a sailing model.
 
I look forward to seeing how you get on with your fresh supply of pear wood. I love the smell of wood freshly cut from fruit trees. Takes me back to my Father's plum orchard.
 
Looking back at the swivel posts I thought you might be interested in how I "turned" the circular top part. I made a rose bit to do this. They are not hard to produce, only needing a drill press, bits, files and some mild still rod to make.
 
Below are some photos of how I did it. The first four are of an experimental one for use in a holder but show the basic process.
 
I had a 2cm piece of 10mm diameter mild steel to hand for this. I filed the ends square then drilled deeply the centre of the end. The diameter of this hole determines the diameter of (in this case) the end of the post.
 

 
I then drilled the centre of the other end with a larger bit most of the way through leaving a couple of mm's length of the smaller diameter hole. This is to stop the work binding in the hole particularly if using a rose bit to produce dowling.
 

 
I then used a fine blade saw to cut a shallow cross on the small diameter hole end. The middle of the cross being the centre of the hole. This was to act as a guide to filing.
 
Next I used a permanent marker to blue the end. Then with the rod in the vice with the small hole upper most and I filed the ends with the file at the angle shown in the next photo. The file was kept to the right of each saw cut.
 

 
I continued filing each face until the blueing between the file mark and the next saw cut just disappears. The next photo shows two faces approaching this point.
 

 
When all four faces have been treated this way you are ready to go. Here is the one I used on the posts.
 

 
The way I used it was first to cut around the post, using a knife, at the point where the round part of the post meets the square part - this acts as a stop cut. I bevelled the end of the post very slightly then simply used the rose bit like a pencil sharpener. (Cue gasps of horror from the guys who do things properly). 
 
Actually, when I get around to it I am going to make a holder for my rose bits to go on to the tool post of my lathe. I will be able to make fairly long lengths of brass and wood doweling in a variety of sizes.
 
Rose bits have been around a very long time. Another example of their use in MSW can found in <Garward's Montanes log> . There he makes the end of the cannon axles by putting the rose bit in the lathe chuck and mounting the axle in the tool post.
 
Unless disaster strikes I should have a set of 26 rail supports machined up by tomorrow - that or a pile of splinters.

Pat and Piet, thanks for looking in and all the likes.
 
Piet, re hardening the mild steel - I only use mild steel for infrequently used tools that will be used on soft(ish) wood which I don't bother hardening. Perhaps I should have mentioned hardening here. For tools that require more demanding use I use tool steel which I harden and temper. 
 
Pre-empting the question on how to harden steel (not from Piet) there is a good description <here>. 

Hartmut,
 
That is very impressive. Nice work.

Hello all,
 
Here is another update on my build.
 
Alexandru

Nearly there with the funnels, just have to align and plonk them on and put on the guy wires. Now they are painted I have added the small brass horns and the small fly wheels, and the rigging for the bits that stick off the fore and aft funnels which i still am unable to find out what they are. they don't look that great on macro but when looked at compared to my hand size they have come out OK.

More work has been taking place in the shipyard and la Couronne is getting her 2nd planking. I am using mahogany for the majority of the planking. The wales and some of the trim is walnut and the white sections at the gun ports are maple. I am trying to have minimal paint and so I want the wood's natural colors to do the job. There is an exception to this as I am using a dyed blue boxwood for parts on the upper hull. I like the look of the blue dye over paint in this case and as it is a small area I think it will look good. Might have some of that on in the next update.
 
I've stated mid ship installing the wales and working upward. I wanted to work on the "easier" part first before tackling the lower hull. I also needed to have good starting points and I've seen from other build logs and planking instructions that starting this way seems to be the most common route for planking. In the past I have tended to just do things my way and hope for the best. Although I am proud of my work, I have discovered a deep desire after viewing many remarkable builds on here to push myself harder to make a better ship. This has involved changing a lot my methods and habits and so far I am very glad I did.
 
I have also discovered that the kit did not come with nearly enough mahogany to plank this ship. Luckily Jason at Crown Timberyard has come through for me and found what I was needing. They say that a bad review will travel faster than a good one and so I am trying to change that. This was the second time I have ordered from Jason and I have been very pleased with the service each time. The wood is excellent quality, and his service, response and shipping is very good as well. This was even more noticeable this time as it was a custom order and not "off the shelf." He wen out of his way to find the lumber to match what I needed. I will use him for all my wood needs for ship building and highly recommend anyone not familiar with Crown Timberyard to check it out if you are needing wood for your build.
 
And now enjoy the pictures!
 

Next probems solved
Thank you all for watching, comments and your so many likes!
 
Today I could manage, to solder the eyelets to the mounting plates, these parts are really small.
 
The eyelets

 
First mounting plate in the basic soldering form

 
Soldering form completed, mounting plate and eyelets fixed for soldering

 
Finished mounting plates, some smaller differents are still to see, this is only the outside of the eyelets, the holes are all in correct position. This is important, the levers will not work correct, when the holes are in different position.


 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 

Hartmut,
 
That is very impressive. Nice work.