Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Sutch sharp painting and very accurate detailing, she is looking swell. OC- 45 replies
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- saratoga
- aircraft carrier
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I started to mask off the boot line today with low tack blue tape, i had to cut this tape into small sections to fit in between the hull details, after completing this - that seem to take all day i let it sit then smoothed it down to get a good seal with a small sponge. I have now started hand painting the first layers of the hull red color, i have chosen to use my Red Ochre that i already had, this is close to Red Oxide and i believe quite close to RN Anti fouling paint, it looks a bit patchy at first folks but this shouls smooth and even out with more thin cooats and gentle sanding between coats - fingers crossed OC
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Great work their tim she is looking so authentic and true to scale, i am dreading doing all my small bits and pieces at 1/350 scale on my build, esp the 20mm orli's they are so tiny.... OC.
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While i am just starting out on my journey with my Warspite build i want to thank all those who h ave liked my build, and follow what i have done, i will try to keep it interesting and hopefully without to many lows . Thanks for watching OC.
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Hey - a great subject and in my fave old medium plastic A man walks into a Bar and goes "Ouch" it was a metal bar....... I too am trying to make plastic look like metal its a bit different from making wood look like "ermmmm" ...wood Anyway can i join in the watching please, i am rubbish in a group to shy, but if its ok i will sit i n the wings and watch. Oh yes nearly foregot - i used to build Accurate Armour resin 35scale tanks from Tiger to Warrior IFV. OC.
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My plan is finnished here is both sides as i am building here OC.
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Hi david good progress there, i can understand where you are coming from regarding the planks, i had a similar situation with a part works build, i have a build sitting in the cuboard HMS President i think? that has a surplus of planks. OC.
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Here is another picture from the diagram i have been worrking on it takes time because i am having to zoom into 600x and work in squares to fill in the details, i am cross referencing from different sorces at the same time, to try to get the most accurate 1944 representation of her. OC
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I achieved a bit more progress yesterday with the bow area, i am getting to the stage where i am quite pleased with the way it is turning out she is getting closer folks to being completed in the hull area anyway promis This morning i have also been continuing to work on my plan in Micro Paint, its coming on what do you think? OC.
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More primer arrived so i was able to continues with hull both forward and aft, after mixing the paint to a 50/50 mix with distilled water i came across a technique that has helped to level out the paint in a smoother manner, before applying the primer i heated up the section to be painted with a hairdryer first, and i found with a quick thin layer and the hairdryer, applied again after application, the paint was smoothing out nicely and drying quickly. I put on about 5 layers and have left it over night to harden before i give it a light sanding/wire wool keying, ready for more parimer. The idea is to get a smooth even layer that will be hard enough for me to gently improve some of the buried details with my knife, the hull will be ready then for the propper painting OC.
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Thanks Joe, lucklely none went on the sides just under the hull. OC
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Thanks Joe, i wondered if it was down to the layer of PVA i had painted over the hull? OC
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I foregot to mention - i have been working on a plan in Windows Paint, of how i want my build to look, here is the plan part finnished - OC
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Just a smal update folks - I decided to do a bit more sanding to blend those areas i had painted, well i have it back down now to near clear palstic minus the hull side bow plates they just didn't look right, yeterday i took delivery of some more Vallejo primer so i can do the - Prime/Sand/Prime/Sand dance . But what arrived that realy had my eyes popping out of my head where the turned metal barrals but - WOW are they tiny tiny little things, they are like the tinniest of baby pecsision metal work i have ever seen :o i will need a magnifying telescope to work with these as i was hoping to hold them with a pin or something down the barrals, while painting . They look superb though, oh and the 20mm Orli's i received aswell including the pe framework/shields I think my work will be cut out working on these folks - my appoligies for swearing in advance OC.
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More work today with a bit more sanding then smoothing with wire wool, i also decided to remove a few of the fairleads as firstly some got damaged by my heavy handed holding while sanding, and also because they are larger and set further inwards on the deck area on the real ship. Here are a few current shots that show the current status - one side is 95% primed and ready for its first camo layer minus a small amount of filling near the bow fairleads, and a small amount of primming where sanding has revealed the plastic. OC.
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Superb work mark It so reminds me of some of the architect drawings i was fortunate to be shown when i spent a week with the RN down at Pompy, this plus a very extensive tour over Victory including some of her normaly closed off areas like the Keel lockers, and ballast keeps It is a credit to yourself and some of the other dedicated history tellers - through their building of sutch beautiful peices of art, and the long standing commitment to achieve realism, i feel honored to share my work here on the site OC
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I guess i learned a lesson with simulating armour plates at this scale - if using paper make sure it is thinner than printer paper, dont use PVA/White glue to fix them down or wash over them, and only use Poly cement to fix paper down or lightly rub over to seal the paper for light sanding, above all else keep the scale thickness to a minimum as it will stick out like a saw thumb :( OC
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So after a few fun and games with my primer, i think i have cracked it, and one side of the hull is semi primed and sanded minus a small section of sanding on the bow, to blend in all those paper hull plates that were Far to over scale even with just printer paper. OC
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Hi Mark, Sorry i didn't reply earlier, i thought i gave them enough of a key for the primer, but in hindsight i had put a layer of PVA Glue down that was supposed to seal in my paper strips, could that have affected it by stopping the primer from attaching well? I have sanded key areas well back now and used the last of my Vallejo surface primer, till i order some more, it has settled down a bit better now and sanded ok before my final bit of primer, i will give it a good day to harden then sand it a bit more with 1200 grade. OC
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Hi Ken, Yep i washed both hull sections with washing up liquid then rinsed off with warm running water and left to dry before working on them, i then glued my paper hull plates on firstly with wttle glue PVA but then had to settle them down with Revell contacta poly cement, i then sanded these down. I am not sure if it may have been areas of white glue that may have stopped the primer sticking well, or just me not giving the primer enough time to fully harden before sanding? OC
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I am also painting in a sensitive area - the living room with my wife a few feet away so paint fumes or over spray is a deffinate no no, thats why i am applying the acrylic by hand and going a few feet into the kitchen to use the dryer, its abit inconvenient but its the way i have to do it. It will be easier when the hull is finished its prep work, as everything else will be in smaller areas even the camo on the hull, and the superstructer should be easy to paint due to smaller size. OC
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By hard bake - i mean heat up with a hairdryer to dry the paint after painting, it seems to help the paint flow aswell. OC
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I am discovering the difficulties in hand painting larger areas, some off it has worked ok, the Vallejo Primer is very tight and does seem to hide brush marks, its just a hard job, i am trying to hard bake the paint on remembering back to my cycle days when bike frames were hot painted on with enamel paints, this made the harder. I dont think i left the Acrylic long enough before sanding though - 15 hours? it was peeling off not sanding smooth even though i washed the plastic with detergent first. OC
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I tried the Vallejo Primer dilluted it 50/50 with distilled water from a kettle after it had cooled, i applied it in many fine layers with a flat 8cm brush, i let it dry for about 15 hrs and tried to do a bit of light sanding with a fine sanding stick that had been dulled to make it smoother, but it was pulling at the paint peeling away instead of sabding it finely - what could be the problem? OC
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I carried on yesterday with the hull priming and boy was it a slog i was hand applying a section then into the kitchen to use the hairdryer to speed up the drying process, then back to the table for another layer, this took about 15 trips back and forth, but to be honest i am not all that impressed with the finnish of even the primer at this stage i tried to gently blend in by sanding some primer work from the previous day but i found that instead of the primer sanding fine in stages it just peeled away leaving a line :o. I dont understand why it has done this - unless 15hrs or so was not long enough for Acrylic primer to harden for sanding?, anyway i carried on regardless and primed the whole of one side. This has shown up the plates a little to detailed so i have been trying to blend these in with thicknesses of primer, and when set(properly) i will sand these to blend them. OC.
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