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Old Collingwood

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  1. Just an update folks minus pics, i am up still at silly - o - clock as my health makes my sleeping very hit and miss and all over the place, anyway - earlier i have been continuing with the old girls hull plates fore and aft, trying to get a decent blended but noticable profile, this i have been doing by applying a smear of poly - contacta glue with my finger over the area i have worked on, with the aid of mrs c's hairdryer it dries shinny and even quite quick, i then leawnve it a few hours more then sand it with extra fine sanding sticks to balance the profile. This has been a progressive stage and getting there slowly as i want these plates to be seen very slightly, i used printer paper as i thought this would be a good scale thickness compared to plastic card, and with poly cement washes that soak into the paper- just as good at sanding down, just more carefully. Anyway thats the stage i am at till i attend my build at the table again later today :o :rolleyes: OC.
  2. Hiya, I discovered the trick with liquid poly( Revell Contacta) as a fixing agent, i worked out my line cut the right size strip then put a thin line of cement before placing the paper strip, i then smeared a small amount with m finger ontop. once set (about a day) i then did a series of light sanding with a fine nail sanding strip, and re smearing of a thin layer of poly cement. OC.
  3. I have decided today to continue further down the hull sides both fore and aft with the plating, as i have seen photos showing these plates fitted originaly in a set pattern similar to the hull bottom, these look a bit rough at the moment as they need more sanding and blending to make the plates just noticable and not stand out like slabs. Here;s some more pictures... OC.
  4. I need to do abit more dtailing to the front between the howser pipes and the masthead, by trimming some of the sheet away then sanding in the plates abit to blend them in. OC.
  5. Great work Hank lots of lovely detail showing its self, i have not long started my HMS Warspite build have a nose. OC.
  6. More work today on the ol girl, i had to reinforce the paper strips under the hull with poly cement as the PVA was coming away(as expected) i used a hairdryer thanks to mrs collingwood after i decided to work on the upper hull plates one either side at the bow and the same at the stern, and also a small area near to the front masthead. Hers are the update pics... OC.
  7. Carried on working on the bottom hull with the paper hull plates, i have slightly ran over the torpedo bulge but this will be trimmed around it as the T-bulge would have fitted over the plates, after the strips were fitted i washed an amount of PVA over the whole area to help lock the paper in place, after fitting a few strips higher up on the hull sides forward and aft, i will let it dry a good few days then sand it very very gently before adding a few coats of Acrylic primer. I just hope the PVA fitted paper will stay in place and not peel off OC.
  8. Hi all, I am simulating the Hull Plates on my HMS Warspite plastic build using paper strips, i am fixing them down using good old PVA/Wood glue and after, i am applying a thin wash over with diluted PVA. Will this be ok for fixing them and will a few layers of Acrylic Primer help to lock them down before painting them with another Acrylic paint layer. OC.
  9. I'm so pleased the plan was of use, i think scale plans are worth their weight and crutial to a boat build. OC
  10. I started work on the hull plates today using 5mm wide paper strips that represents a scale widthe of between 5 and 6 feet, i am spacing them with an equal gap and started from the keel plate and working towards the torpedo bulge, on the kit there are two graved lines for and aft that i assume represent the finish of the plates. I diluted a mix of PVA glue and stuck them down with this applying a smear over them to lock them in abit, when dry i hope to sand them lightly to blend the whols thing in. Here is just the two pctures. OC.
  11. Yep plastic can be still a fantastic medium to build with i think at 1/350 or smaller it would stretch the ability in wood. OC.
  12. The hull bonded well and has turned out nice and taught, i gave it a gentle wet and dry sanding, my next move will be to create some hull interlocking plates starting from the keel plate and possibly fitting another two each side of that towards the bilge keel, this will be a bit of artistic merit as i am going from the hull plate drawing of HMS Hood, that shows eight interlocking plates in a - up,down,up,down step set up, only subtle but visible, i will make this from paper strips attached with white glue. OC.
  13. This is a great level of detailed work and i agree what you said about the camera picking up every flaw, its the same with my Warspite build in 350scale dust and scarpping residue seems to collect in corners that are invisiable till i take a picture OC.
  14. Right then - i have to report a great get to gether, the meeting of two fantastic subjects - my port and starboard hull sides i started by instaling the hull supports using a mixture of poly cement and super glue, after they had set after a few hours i brought both sides together then fitted a clamp and taped the sides, i then poored poly cement along the inside seem but for extra strength i have added a thin wood strip that my wood build box has lent me and set to super gluing it along the inside seem pushing it down with a piece of dowel, and afer bonding it is sat on the table setting OC
  15. Looks very good , is it easy enough to detail - say the bleaching affect from holy stoning? when i did this with a light mix of bleach and iron scrubbing pads in my wood build, it gave the planks an almost grey look just how wood goes when it is weathered. OC
  16. Interesting, i have read that the scake thickness can be a bit of a problem with the wood deck obscuring some of the deck details, would it be possible to sand the back down a bit to reduce the thickness(i know there is a sticking back on it) or perhaps gently sanding down the the top and re scribing gently to restore the plank joints, or perhaps sanding off the plastic deck plank details on the actual model, that would reduce the thickness a bit i guess, and also make the deck details stand a little higher for when the wood deck is fitted. OC
  17. I want to ask folks - does any have any advice on the coloring the planking to make it look as authentic as possible at this scale? i have read a lot of ideas on the subject but dont know the best way to go, its a different vall game to just staining and bleaching real wood planking strips as i did in my other wood build... OC
  18. More work on the center deck section concentrating on the 4inch mount shields, thinning them and sanding the deck planks down a bit as they are a bit over scale with the caulking depth a bit to deep, even with using my magnifier and small tools and small slivers of sanding sticks, a small amount of build up still gathers in the corners, this will need even finer cleaning work OC
  19. Hi Robin, Those are great memories that stir up my blood as i have always had a love affair with all things nautical, i too took the path over to St Michaels Mount just yards away from what became just a bottom hull reaf, but with the frquent washing up of small bits of metalwork from her fragile skeleton that was left, i have reserched her with a passion and will continue to. I have also visted Plymouth many times watching the warships of different navies and sizes, sitting on the bemches near to west hoe next to the metal model ships on the sea wall, my imagination used to wonder as if i was a kid during the wars with Hood. Rodney, Howe etc sailing past with their engines making that "chug-chug-chug-chug sound". With exception to Victory the only other warships i have had the immense pleasure to look over are - Belfast in London and HMS Bristol a type 23 Destroyer in Pompy, great times in deed :) Oh foregot to add my interests from the past in drawing and some painting helps with my model making. OC
  20. Here are a few pics showing the plain deck details i have been enhancing by thining the bulkheads/ armour shields around the 4inch guns, and picking out the detail around different objects, i have done the same around the howser/chain plates and around the rope posts, the pictures show a bit of roughness as i hadn't cleaned the dust off yet and they show i need a bit Stronger magnification to see the finer details, rather than just my glasses, i will have to get my magnifier/stand out.... OC.
  21. Hi Frank, yep i am waiting on some extra detail stuff to arrive, i am keeping the palstic deck as i feel the detail with planks is ok. and with some washes and bleaching affect it should look quite good. OC.
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