Old Collingwood
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I have a cupple of quiries folks - 1) Warspite had 4-5 external armour plates running from fore to aft each roughly 5 feet thick going by the information i have been able to find on the net. 2) These paltes were fitted at the time she was constructed. 3) She had a torpedo armored bulge fitted over the top of the middle to bottom section of plates later as part of updating her protection. Yet some pictures i have seen have shown these plates following the normal lines as when built, but on the outside of the added torpedo bulges, (how can this be)? Does anyone have any deffiante info on this folkes - or anything else concrete regarding her look in her later life 1944 onwards. Thanks for reading folks. OC. -
H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.
Old Collingwood replied to Izzy Madd's topic in Plastic model kits
Interesting thoughtfull work there Izzy, like i have said before - it is amazing what you can achieve with a plastic kit out of a box - some bits and pieces - tolls and a lot of patience in my younger days i have built Her ladyship Vic in a few different forms, from a ship in a bottle, the Airfix version and later the Part Works one by De-Ag, the last one was part made and i had a build going on on here on the earlier forum before it all went ...up. I lost my build and a lot of parts due to a house move. OC -
More coats of primer went on yesterday in the best manner my hand painting would allow its not easy and thank goodness its just the primer and can be gently rubbed down a bit to smooth it out, i have been telling myself that one day i will make the jump into the Spraying world and save my pennies to get one I will be continuing to prime in controled stages and attack the more complex area of the hull, where there is a lot of obstructions that will stop me getting a smooth brush flow last, next stage will be to mask of for the top edge of the boot line and paint the red lower hull in the closest color i have to hand - Admiralty Paints Red Ochre, i understand this is close to Red Oxide and close to RN Anti Fouling Red OC
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Hi David, The build looks very interesting, i like the idea of the mast metal supports looks like a good idea, i will follow your build my friend. All the best OC.
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Right then - Primer time because i am hand painting the whole kit because i do not have a sprayer or ever used one, i decided to mask off a section to paint in one go, this i did by masking off the lip of the bilge keel and fore/aft towards the plates i built from paper. This went slowly as i was hand drying after each layer of paint, then a light sand with the rough side of a washing spong(the little multi colored ones we use when washing dishes) the problem i had was a slight nervious approach at first as i was worried about brush marks, and also i was getting a fair amount of brush hairs but i was able to sand these off after. This is the stage with this area after about 10 layers that where diluted 50/50 with distilled water(ex kettle water from many cups of tea and coffee) OC
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Another update folks that does not warant photos as they have been posted before, the hull is just about ready for its primer(this will be a test of my hand painting abilities) i am just waiting on a section to re glue and some light sanding and it will be ready, in the mean time i have been working on fashioning a scraping tool for the 4inch gun area splinter guards, i had to remove a ridge on a metal fine chisel that will allow me to sit it on its side flat and square and scrape away to reduce the thickness of these guards, because on the real ship i think they were about 2inches thick. I was able to do this but it was tedious work and heavy on my eyes, as i had to do the work under my magnifier stand OC
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Just an update folks minus pics, i am up still at silly - o - clock as my health makes my sleeping very hit and miss and all over the place, anyway - earlier i have been continuing with the old girls hull plates fore and aft, trying to get a decent blended but noticable profile, this i have been doing by applying a smear of poly - contacta glue with my finger over the area i have worked on, with the aid of mrs c's hairdryer it dries shinny and even quite quick, i then leawnve it a few hours more then sand it with extra fine sanding sticks to balance the profile. This has been a progressive stage and getting there slowly as i want these plates to be seen very slightly, i used printer paper as i thought this would be a good scale thickness compared to plastic card, and with poly cement washes that soak into the paper- just as good at sanding down, just more carefully. Anyway thats the stage i am at till i attend my build at the table again later today :o :rolleyes: OC.
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Hiya, I discovered the trick with liquid poly( Revell Contacta) as a fixing agent, i worked out my line cut the right size strip then put a thin line of cement before placing the paper strip, i then smeared a small amount with m finger ontop. once set (about a day) i then did a series of light sanding with a fine nail sanding strip, and re smearing of a thin layer of poly cement. OC.
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I have decided today to continue further down the hull sides both fore and aft with the plating, as i have seen photos showing these plates fitted originaly in a set pattern similar to the hull bottom, these look a bit rough at the moment as they need more sanding and blending to make the plates just noticable and not stand out like slabs. Here;s some more pictures... OC.
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I need to do abit more dtailing to the front between the howser pipes and the masthead, by trimming some of the sheet away then sanding in the plates abit to blend them in. OC.
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Great work Hank lots of lovely detail showing its self, i have not long started my HMS Warspite build have a nose. OC.
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More work today on the ol girl, i had to reinforce the paper strips under the hull with poly cement as the PVA was coming away(as expected) i used a hairdryer thanks to mrs collingwood after i decided to work on the upper hull plates one either side at the bow and the same at the stern, and also a small area near to the front masthead. Hers are the update pics... OC.
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Carried on working on the bottom hull with the paper hull plates, i have slightly ran over the torpedo bulge but this will be trimmed around it as the T-bulge would have fitted over the plates, after the strips were fitted i washed an amount of PVA over the whole area to help lock the paper in place, after fitting a few strips higher up on the hull sides forward and aft, i will let it dry a good few days then sand it very very gently before adding a few coats of Acrylic primer. I just hope the PVA fitted paper will stay in place and not peel off OC.
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Hi all, I am simulating the Hull Plates on my HMS Warspite plastic build using paper strips, i am fixing them down using good old PVA/Wood glue and after, i am applying a thin wash over with diluted PVA. Will this be ok for fixing them and will a few layers of Acrylic Primer help to lock them down before painting them with another Acrylic paint layer. OC.
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I'm so pleased the plan was of use, i think scale plans are worth their weight and crutial to a boat build. OC
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I started work on the hull plates today using 5mm wide paper strips that represents a scale widthe of between 5 and 6 feet, i am spacing them with an equal gap and started from the keel plate and working towards the torpedo bulge, on the kit there are two graved lines for and aft that i assume represent the finish of the plates. I diluted a mix of PVA glue and stuck them down with this applying a smear over them to lock them in abit, when dry i hope to sand them lightly to blend the whols thing in. Here is just the two pctures. OC.
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Yep plastic can be still a fantastic medium to build with i think at 1/350 or smaller it would stretch the ability in wood. OC.
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The hull bonded well and has turned out nice and taught, i gave it a gentle wet and dry sanding, my next move will be to create some hull interlocking plates starting from the keel plate and possibly fitting another two each side of that towards the bilge keel, this will be a bit of artistic merit as i am going from the hull plate drawing of HMS Hood, that shows eight interlocking plates in a - up,down,up,down step set up, only subtle but visible, i will make this from paper strips attached with white glue. OC.
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This is a great level of detailed work and i agree what you said about the camera picking up every flaw, its the same with my Warspite build in 350scale dust and scarpping residue seems to collect in corners that are invisiable till i take a picture OC.
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Here is a couple of pictures of the hull matting process OC
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Right then - i have to report a great get to gether, the meeting of two fantastic subjects - my port and starboard hull sides i started by instaling the hull supports using a mixture of poly cement and super glue, after they had set after a few hours i brought both sides together then fitted a clamp and taped the sides, i then poored poly cement along the inside seem but for extra strength i have added a thin wood strip that my wood build box has lent me and set to super gluing it along the inside seem pushing it down with a piece of dowel, and afer bonding it is sat on the table setting OC
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Looks very good , is it easy enough to detail - say the bleaching affect from holy stoning? when i did this with a light mix of bleach and iron scrubbing pads in my wood build, it gave the planks an almost grey look just how wood goes when it is weathered. OC
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Interesting, i have read that the scake thickness can be a bit of a problem with the wood deck obscuring some of the deck details, would it be possible to sand the back down a bit to reduce the thickness(i know there is a sticking back on it) or perhaps gently sanding down the the top and re scribing gently to restore the plank joints, or perhaps sanding off the plastic deck plank details on the actual model, that would reduce the thickness a bit i guess, and also make the deck details stand a little higher for when the wood deck is fitted. OC
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I want to ask folks - does any have any advice on the coloring the planking to make it look as authentic as possible at this scale? i have read a lot of ideas on the subject but dont know the best way to go, its a different vall game to just staining and bleaching real wood planking strips as i did in my other wood build... OC
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