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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Yep plastic can be still a fantastic medium to build with i think at 1/350 or smaller it would stretch the ability in wood. OC.
- 45 replies
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- saratoga
- aircraft carrier
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The hull bonded well and has turned out nice and taught, i gave it a gentle wet and dry sanding, my next move will be to create some hull interlocking plates starting from the keel plate and possibly fitting another two each side of that towards the bilge keel, this will be a bit of artistic merit as i am going from the hull plate drawing of HMS Hood, that shows eight interlocking plates in a - up,down,up,down step set up, only subtle but visible, i will make this from paper strips attached with white glue. OC.
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This is a great level of detailed work and i agree what you said about the camera picking up every flaw, its the same with my Warspite build in 350scale dust and scarpping residue seems to collect in corners that are invisiable till i take a picture OC.
- 144 replies
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- basilone
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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Right then - i have to report a great get to gether, the meeting of two fantastic subjects - my port and starboard hull sides i started by instaling the hull supports using a mixture of poly cement and super glue, after they had set after a few hours i brought both sides together then fitted a clamp and taped the sides, i then poored poly cement along the inside seem but for extra strength i have added a thin wood strip that my wood build box has lent me and set to super gluing it along the inside seem pushing it down with a piece of dowel, and afer bonding it is sat on the table setting OC
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Looks very good , is it easy enough to detail - say the bleaching affect from holy stoning? when i did this with a light mix of bleach and iron scrubbing pads in my wood build, it gave the planks an almost grey look just how wood goes when it is weathered. OC
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Interesting, i have read that the scake thickness can be a bit of a problem with the wood deck obscuring some of the deck details, would it be possible to sand the back down a bit to reduce the thickness(i know there is a sticking back on it) or perhaps gently sanding down the the top and re scribing gently to restore the plank joints, or perhaps sanding off the plastic deck plank details on the actual model, that would reduce the thickness a bit i guess, and also make the deck details stand a little higher for when the wood deck is fitted. OC
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I want to ask folks - does any have any advice on the coloring the planking to make it look as authentic as possible at this scale? i have read a lot of ideas on the subject but dont know the best way to go, its a different vall game to just staining and bleaching real wood planking strips as i did in my other wood build... OC
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More work on the center deck section concentrating on the 4inch mount shields, thinning them and sanding the deck planks down a bit as they are a bit over scale with the caulking depth a bit to deep, even with using my magnifier and small tools and small slivers of sanding sticks, a small amount of build up still gathers in the corners, this will need even finer cleaning work OC
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Hi Robin, Those are great memories that stir up my blood as i have always had a love affair with all things nautical, i too took the path over to St Michaels Mount just yards away from what became just a bottom hull reaf, but with the frquent washing up of small bits of metalwork from her fragile skeleton that was left, i have reserched her with a passion and will continue to. I have also visted Plymouth many times watching the warships of different navies and sizes, sitting on the bemches near to west hoe next to the metal model ships on the sea wall, my imagination used to wonder as if i was a kid during the wars with Hood. Rodney, Howe etc sailing past with their engines making that "chug-chug-chug-chug sound". With exception to Victory the only other warships i have had the immense pleasure to look over are - Belfast in London and HMS Bristol a type 23 Destroyer in Pompy, great times in deed :) Oh foregot to add my interests from the past in drawing and some painting helps with my model making. OC
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Here are a few pics showing the plain deck details i have been enhancing by thining the bulkheads/ armour shields around the 4inch guns, and picking out the detail around different objects, i have done the same around the howser/chain plates and around the rope posts, the pictures show a bit of roughness as i hadn't cleaned the dust off yet and they show i need a bit Stronger magnification to see the finer details, rather than just my glasses, i will have to get my magnifier/stand out.... OC.
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Hi Frank, yep i am waiting on some extra detail stuff to arrive, i am keeping the palstic deck as i feel the detail with planks is ok. and with some washes and bleaching affect it should look quite good. OC.
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Hello there, yep i know of Glenn, i read his posts with a great level of interest, i have sent him a pm but not heard back from him yet, i love the work he is doing its an amazing achievement OC.
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I decided to take a look at her decks today as some of my paints have arrived i cut them from there shackles and started to tidy them up. first off was to get a better join of the front and center sections by sanding the join plate, after this my attention turned to the shields infront of the 4inch guns on the deck, these needed there scale thickness slimming down as i understand the armour plate here would have been about 6inches, that equates to about .4mm at 1/350 scale so i set about with my file and sanding stick. The decks will get a lot more detail work from me in course and allowing for the detail kit or not?, but i finnished off today by giving them a wash down to get rid of any gremlins etc. OC
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Hi there, Yep i am either doing her as she was just before she had her 6inch guns removed, or just after her last refit when she did and possibly as she displayed to take part in D Day. either way she will be in her latter days. OC
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I was wondering about the bottom hull red color on my HMS Warspite build, i know British Second World War ships used a paint called RN19 Anti Fouling Red, i still have some Red Ochre that i was using on my Napoleonic period RN build inner bulkheads/gun ports. Could i use this paint to simulate the Anti Fouling paint? as i belive it is a very early version of Red Oxide, so possibly later paints used on the bottom of RN hulls may have been based around this type of color? Any ideas folks please. OC
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I achieved a good amount today out in the sun i started work on the other hull side with the rear uppermost armor platting, marking it as before then scribing a line before scarping away to get a different hull thickness as in the above picture, but after studying some pictures i decided that the different hull depths with what i had done for the armor plate was to much, so i sanded the difference back to make it more subtle but still visible. Both hull sides are now ready to be introduced to each other and bonded for life, i may put some extra stiffening inside the hull to help with its structural integrity. OC
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I am really appreciating the replies folks, thanks to all, another question from my never ending list - what sort of ratio would you water down an Acrylic paint from a new bottle/tin etc, say 50/50 or is that to much making it to runny? And also any thoughts on a good WW11 battleship Bottom Hull color, i am kind of leaning towards Vallejo Hull Red color, but as Royal Navy ships used a color called RN19 Anti Fouling Red, i dont know how different the two might be? Sorry for all the questions folks but any ideas please? OC
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How about conventional household wall filler mixed with a bit of PVA glue, would that not work in areas like covering up port holes etc? OC
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