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shipaholic

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Everything posted by shipaholic

  1. Hi again In answer to one of Cabbie's comments, if you have a close look at the pic I posted previously there is a hinge at the top of the rudder post level with the deck. Here is pic of how I set up the tiller on my Endeavour if it helps. I would ignore that arc on the plan, doesn't make sense. Cheers Steve
  2. Dashicat I'm intrigued by that last sheer plan you put up showing the Endeavour as she was before refit and the proposed changes. I have a copy of plan 3814b and it is different, on mine the badge window shows the carving details and a few other details are different. Anyway this pic of the draught shows the bracket where the tiller joins the rudder, a slight upward curve of the tiller. but nothing to suggest what that arc is on the original plan you put up. That plan with the arc is the a planmade after Cook's voyage with different cabin arrangements proposed, it also has an extra scuttle on the forecastle. It also has the drum aft of the helm. Cheers Steve
  3. Hi Ron Try thoroughly wetting each of the reef ropes with water let it soak in for w while then tease them into position with a paint brush. I'm assuming that the ropes are natural fibre, they should stay in place once dry. If not use diluted PVA glue applied with a paint brush. Cheers Steve
  4. Hi Dave You should blacken the chains rather than paint them, as you say they scratch easily when painted. Blackening also looks more realistic, and the solder should blacken okay. Cheers Steve
  5. Hi Dave At least we have the luxury now of being able to purchase great looking blocks from the likes of Chuck at Syren. When I built my AL Endeavour I used those ugly square ones that came with the kit and I individually sanded each one to the correct shape and varnished them - a lot of work. Cheers Steve
  6. Nice work Ron. Did you do the X stitching on the spritsail? I can't remember seeing it on the sails I got with mine, I must go look. I remember when I made my first endeavour i used some old I white sheets to make the sails then after a few years of us smoking in the house (back in those days!) they were dingy brown from nicotine stain. Cheers Steve
  7. Yes Pat I agree, it looks good so I did it that way, who knows what's right
  8. Another pic. I decided to make the lower section of the topmast eight sided. I am not sure what is correct, the AOTS has them round, the replica vessel has them like this, Lees states that they were eight sided after about 1773 based on ship models.
  9. I've been making the fore topmast trestle tree, this is just put together and not glued yet. Still need some adjustment to the slots so the top surfaces are flush. This wood supplied with the kit is fairly soft and easy to sand, but very open and grainy.
  10. Thanks Pat, I don't have a mill. I just used my Dremel, I have a stand for it so it can be used like a drill press. They aren't real sheaves either, just simulated.
  11. Hi All I have spent the last couple of days making the topmasts
  12. Yes Pat I think they look better. I tried to trim the ends at the fore and aft shrouds as close as possible. The "stand-off" look is much better, sometimes us modellers get obsessed with detail and forget that if it looks good from a couple of feet away its fine. Cheers Steve
  13. After my yeah/nah debate with myself a few weeks ago I have now decided nah. I did quite a few ratlines with simulated splices and tying them to the fore and aft shrouds. The main problem was the linen thread I was using refused to stay tightly clove hitched around the shrouds, hence the whole thing looked untidy. I switched to slightly thinner cotton thread and decided to just clove hitch on the fore and aft shrouds.
  14. Hi Max Here are a couple of pics of my AL Endeavour with sails that may clear things up for you. You can see that the clew lines run aft of the sail, whereas the bunt lines run down the front of the sails Cheers Steve
  15. Hi Pat Here are pics of the badge window on the draughts of Earl of Pembroke before conversion to the Endeavour, and later draught showing same shape but less detail. They clearly show that the window was angled upwards, meaning that the shutters would swing open just like Parkinson sketched them. Those badges in the AL kit are wrong, sorry. I turfed mine when I built the AL and made wood ones the correct shape. Cheers Steve
  16. Hi Dave Nice work, especially at 1:60. More on the bowsprit: I have a set of books on ships that were published in 1980, well before Marquardt's book and the building of the replica. The books are quite good and obviously written by maritime experts. The Endeavour is depicted in this picture with both the taller mizzen and the longer bowsprit, and it looks like a typical sailing ship. Cheers Steve
  17. Yes Pat I agree with Greg, if they look pretty right leave them. Yours still look a lot better than the chunky pieces of wood I got with my AL Endeavour. Sorry for posting my pics on your build log, I will delete after you see it. (But if you do want bigger beads try your local Spotlight store they sell lots of different beads for jewellery making)
  18. Hi Pat, looking good Re the parrals, here is a page from "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" describing them in better detail. The drawing in AOTS is very misleading. Cheers Steve
  19. Greg Yes the cutters are great, I got them from Jaycar Electronics, you can buy them onlne from Jaycar if you don't have one closeby Steve
  20. Thanks Paul Pat, here is a pic of the cutters I use, they do a really clean cut and you can get in really close with them Cheers Steve
  21. Pat, Mike Yeah Nah, thats exactly what I thought too Mike. I have no problem tying the clove hitches, over the years I have become quite adept at tying knots with tweezers. For the ratlines I am using linen thread I got from a sewing shop, its different and thicker than cotton and just the right diameter, it isnt fuzzy and forms nice neat "spliced eyes" by folding it over with a tiny drop of pva glue to hold the end and form an eye. I use the thinner cotton to tie the eye to the shroud and if trimmed close its really neat. I use a precision electronics wire cutter for trimming, brilliant. For all my rigging work and other small stuff I put a small amount of PVA glue into a small tray or stubby lid and use a piece of copper wire to apply a small drop of glue to the article. After a while you form a small mountain of dried glue, when I built my last ship I had a glue mountain about 20 mm high!! Cheers Steve
  22. Haha thanks Dave, I've been off for two weeks and only got to the ship today.
  23. Haven't been very motivated to do much on the ship lately, until today. Continuing with the ratlines, made a real task for myself by electing to simulate the eye splices at each end of the ratline, but at least they look more realistic.
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