robdurant

Hi Kevin,
 
This is a lovely, welcoming and helpful community. I could not have done half the builds I've done without the support I've found here. Good to have you here.
 
Do consider starting a build log and showing people where you're up to. You'll get more input that way and it will provide a place to ask any questions you might have and get those answers
 
Rob

Heres the Connie I finished the year before last. 

Hi Kevin,
 
This is a lovely, welcoming and helpful community. I could not have done half the builds I've done without the support I've found here. Good to have you here.
 
Do consider starting a build log and showing people where you're up to. You'll get more input that way and it will provide a place to ask any questions you might have and get those answers
 
Rob

The Ferrari 288 GTO yellow body was set aside for paint drying/curing time. Yesterday I wet sanded it with 4000 grit. As I kept looking at it, it just seemed to me the yellow was not the correct shade for Ferrari. I would have sworn the Mr Color yellow I used was the same as the paint on my Enzo Ferrari I built a couple of years ago, and that color seemed perfect to me. So, I put the two models side by side for a close examination and sure enough, the Enzo Ferrari shade of yellow was a tad darker than what was on the 288 GTO. My instinct was right, the current project was NOT the same color as the former one. So, I went back and found my build thread for the Enzo, and sure enough, the paint brand and color I used for the Enzo was Splash paint, Giallo Modena color. Lucky for me, I had the remainder of the unused portion from the Enzo project. However, the paint was far too thick, I suppose that much of the reducer evaporated out over the past two years. I took a chance and reduced it to a viscosity I felt was appropriate using Mr Color Levelling Thinner. I wasn't certain the two would be compatible even though both are lacquer paints. To my delight, it seems all will be fine. I sprayed on the Splash Giallo Modena shade of yellow and am MUCH more satisfied with the results. The shade of yellow looks perfect to me. Splash paints dry flat and require subsequent clear coats to give a deep shine. I will give the model at least a week drying time before applying a clear coat.
 
 

I'm Kevin and this is my first membership of this kind. Been building model ships off and on all of my life. Really reduces stress, when not creating it. Built the USS Contitution a couple of times, currently building Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark. Stumbled across this MSW by accident and found that there are some REAL modelers here. Some of the work I've seen here is nothing short of MAGNIFICENT. Call myself Lost and Confused, as that was the nickname of my ship, in the USN. Was a SSBN submarine. My first choices were "Bubblehead" and "Boomer  but they were already taken. I will be asking questions . Glad to be here
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

So I worked on some support jigs today along with the forward frames. There are three total jigs that are placed on the structure, these will remain there until the planking is completed and all the frames are supported.
 
This is a large model with lengthy unsupported frames sticking up just asking to break off, I didn’t feel comfortable fairing and planking these without some major support through the process.

The first jig is forward, it will support a larger piece that will lock the frames together and the second is in the middle it will also support this piece, both of these are represented in orange.

Below you can see the forward frames in blue, I’ll cover these first since the forward jig is dependent on these.

The pieces below are for the port side, they have fairing lines etched in already, I just sanded them carefully and test fit until I was happy. The frame you see is the forward bulkhead and timber support, this will go in last.

I had already compleated the starboard ones and installed them with the fwd bulkhead frame, I did a little bit of fairing once installed and I’ll probably have to do a little more when I fair all the bulkheads.


All three jigs are a pretty tight fit but I want them to be sturdy and keep the frames true, so some sanding and filing may be required, the assembly of the first one is shown below



The two pieces above fit snug on the outboard side of the fairing frames on frames 1,2and 3, they are all marked with arrows facing forward so you get the direction right 


I should add that the flat piece on the center of each jig is there to attach the bulkhead jig to, I had intended to just screw it down to this piece but may glue it in and just break it out when it’s time to remove. all of this will come out once it serves its purpose.

The middle jig is similar and you can see below, it fits between frames 12 and 13. 






Once the jigs are complete, the large piece that stabilizes the bulkheads will go on, it also acts as a parts tree for the gunport frames as well as the gunport cutouts to help you get the frames installed at correct angles.

I will cover this in detail much more later as i still have to build the third jig which also supports the frames, unfortunately I forgot to cut some pieces and bring them back with me.

JJ
 
 

OK, just a little update.
 
I have been very busy, if not producing stuff, then trying to carry on with my next two smaller developments.
 
Today I finally completed the hull detail for kit number 15, the gun brig Adder of 14 guns (1797 - Acute Class). 12 x 18 Pounder carronades and 2x24 Pounder carriage guns. I think this has taken three weeks in total to get this far, perhaps two weeks for masts and rig.
 
Size wise this fits neatly in between Alert and Speedy. The designs were a lot more involved than I initially anticipated, with the bluff bow and foredeck drooping down as it goes forward, presumably to help negate the recoil of the large 24 Pounders.
 
As with Trial Cutter, it has drop keels, and all hull detail above main wale is pre cut and engraved, meaning very little planking required, which is also painted (or coppered) anyway.
 
This was meant to be a nice cheap and simple kit, but as usual, I went too far, and ended up with a very detailed little kit with many laser cut and engraved sheets.
 
Scale - 1:64th (of course..)
Hull Length - 406mm
Overall Length (Rigged) - 606mm
Height Overall - 464mm
 
This class was a Henslow design, and if you don't like the name, there is quite a choice:
Acute
Adder
Asp
Assault
Biter
Blazer
Bouncer
Boxer
Bruiser
Clinker
Contest
Cracker
Crash (!!)
Sparkler
Spiteful
 
All ordered and built in 1797
 
Adder was actually lengthened in 1798 to 97' along the main deck, so I doubt she was ever coppered in the as built guise. Most seem to have been coppered at a much later date after their launch, hence the white bottom.
 
No idea how well this will sell....

Congratulations on your retirement. It's great to see progress on this model being made, and I hope you find great joy as you adjust to this new season of life.

Congratulations on your retirement. It's great to see progress on this model being made, and I hope you find great joy as you adjust to this new season of life.

Alright after a bit of a hiatus I am back.  More importantly, as of last Monday I am now retired (and the peasants rejoiced).  Bit of a crazy few months but that is all behind me.  I have time, I have the motivation and I still have the ship.  The Jylland has been dusted off, some minor repairs to the hull planking (gaps) fixed up.  Lots of things on my daily list but progress will be made.
 
Looking at getting the stern set to rights window wise then right into the upper faux planking.
 
- Mark
Stay building my Friends

Having built a vanguard model, and having almost finished MarisStella's largest model to date, I can say that the instructions are like night and day. 
 
Vanguard hold your hand throughout, making even the most complex of their models something that can be achieved with perseverance and patience. MarisStella provide many plans, but drawing them together and planning a build sequence or working out what tool to use for what task is left in many ways to the builder. Both fun to build (if you're happy to invest all the time required for the choice you make), and neither approach is wrong, but I would definitely expect a far steeper learning curve with MarisStella if it's similar to Barque Stefano.

Hi , my personal choice I prefer to join both sides of the frame before planking.

Dreadnoughts signal tower with the Barr & Stroud range finder. Kit piece in the foreground 

Finished the waterlines, and here are the buttock lines. Only very minor changes, and they look pretty smooth, so I think I'm happy to start sketching out the square frames...
 

Thanks - That's the next task after I finish these waterlines... The first attempt without the interpolation looked fine, but I've moved things since then, so I'll go over it again.
 
Here's a snapshot of progress to date... I'm looking forward to the bit where I can say I'm happy with these lines, and I think I'm edging closer.
 

A brief update to say that I haven't stopped all progress on this project, but there hasn't been much to show. I've been fine-tuning the CAD plans, interpolating between the waterlines, before I begin to loft the frames.
 
It currently looks like this...  I'm beginning to have confidence that these lines will make a good-looking hull. I still have to add interpolated lines above where the tumblehome begins... that's the next step.

I've also redrawn all of the square frames, so that they are one of three "sides" (depths of wood front to back) - I hope this will make the final construction much more efficient. Once I'm happy with the lines, I'll add the canted frames, too.

Thanks for looking in, and for all of the fascinating discussion. My efforts must appear very stone-age, but I'm having fun, and enjoying the pace I'm working at, so I figure that's a win! Stefano's beginning to reach the final stages (just running rigging to do) so I'll have more time soon - and hopefully some space on my build desk again!
 
Rob
 

The weather deck at the bow is filled and painted - with a little fettling still to do, perhaps, but I'll do that once I've added the rubbing strips and details on the outside of the hull. I've also made progress with the superstructure, which now has the makings of a wheelhouse, and the deck sections just behind the wheelhouse are being planked. Here are some photos of her on water... The first time she's been ballasted down to waterline (using sheet lead), and she was dry as a bone inside 
 




Thanks for looking in, for likes and for general encouragement. Progress is slow, but definitely heading in the right direction.
 
Rob
 
 
 
 

This thread/topic has been really useful as I had no prior knowledge of Vallejo Paints but now all I can say is WOW - under £3 delivered next day from Amazon (other retailers are available) and 2 pots was enough to apply a generous coat to the model - the coverage is great and the "density" covers everything  - "leather red" makes a great anti-foul/red oxide equivalent.
 
Highly recommended. 
 
Thanks again

The weather deck at the bow is filled and painted - with a little fettling still to do, perhaps, but I'll do that once I've added the rubbing strips and details on the outside of the hull. I've also made progress with the superstructure, which now has the makings of a wheelhouse, and the deck sections just behind the wheelhouse are being planked. Here are some photos of her on water... The first time she's been ballasted down to waterline (using sheet lead), and she was dry as a bone inside 
 




Thanks for looking in, for likes and for general encouragement. Progress is slow, but definitely heading in the right direction.
 
Rob
 
 
 
 

Having built a vanguard model, and having almost finished MarisStella's largest model to date, I can say that the instructions are like night and day. 
 
Vanguard hold your hand throughout, making even the most complex of their models something that can be achieved with perseverance and patience. MarisStella provide many plans, but drawing them together and planning a build sequence or working out what tool to use for what task is left in many ways to the builder. Both fun to build (if you're happy to invest all the time required for the choice you make), and neither approach is wrong, but I would definitely expect a far steeper learning curve with MarisStella if it's similar to Barque Stefano.

Having built a vanguard model, and having almost finished MarisStella's largest model to date, I can say that the instructions are like night and day. 
 
Vanguard hold your hand throughout, making even the most complex of their models something that can be achieved with perseverance and patience. MarisStella provide many plans, but drawing them together and planning a build sequence or working out what tool to use for what task is left in many ways to the builder. Both fun to build (if you're happy to invest all the time required for the choice you make), and neither approach is wrong, but I would definitely expect a far steeper learning curve with MarisStella if it's similar to Barque Stefano.

Having built a vanguard model, and having almost finished MarisStella's largest model to date, I can say that the instructions are like night and day. 
 
Vanguard hold your hand throughout, making even the most complex of their models something that can be achieved with perseverance and patience. MarisStella provide many plans, but drawing them together and planning a build sequence or working out what tool to use for what task is left in many ways to the builder. Both fun to build (if you're happy to invest all the time required for the choice you make), and neither approach is wrong, but I would definitely expect a far steeper learning curve with MarisStella if it's similar to Barque Stefano.

This model is one I think I would like to do in the future.  The legos in the clamps to hold the frame square is great! Looking forward to future updates.

Thank you

She's a beauty!
Looking back on some of the posts of your build log I saw some discussion about a display case. I have built display cases for all my models and it's not as difficult as it might seem at first. Take it from somebody who is not particularly talented with adult tools as opposed to modelling tools. (Me)  I have discovered a site of building a display case whilst seaching for an improved method over mine and found it on modelshipcases.com by Wes Marden. It's a detailed build log of building a display case and except for a table saw, all the other tools used in its construction are pretty basic. It costs just $12US to download the instructions and I plan on using his method in building my next case.
For me, it's cringeworthy that a piece of finely constructed ship model be subjected to the elements such as years of dust accumulation and cats.... Especially cats.
Peter