Kevin

i enjoy looking around at what others are building, but i have to many projects on the go, Indy must be finished this summer, with Belle Poule and get San Felipe started

morning, everyone
day 4
finished the hull planking, absolutely nothing special, but having learnt to fair the frames better the hull is solid, bow filler blocks setting overnight, i will def be putting tiles on her, so ordered some 4mm copper tape, 

day 5 bow and stern blanks
 
the bow and stern blanks were put on and allowed to dry
But your on yr own from there on, a couple of photos in the instruction only show which way to fair from, no guides no templates, its totally up to your self how you wanrt to mess it up
so another request would be to provide a simple template in wood or card for bow and stern to be used as a guide
day 6 main deck planking
at this scale i decided against simulating deck joints and nails, and went for straight runs, the .6*5mm sycamore is ok to use and went down ok, i stained it with a medium oak spirit based stain


day 8 bulwarks
the gun port lids are removed , and kept to one side, i was very short of Yellow occre paint from the indy build, and tried several colours, the yellow desert at time of fitting don't seam right
moan time, the forward laser cut bulkheads  need soaking, but why do they make  them so the grain is vertical, yep i snapped one and then became a pain to sort out, the other side went on ok with 5 mins in hot water
also when fitting the after template they line up with the deck tabs, where as the forward ones do not and also to long by about 5mm which means the bowsprit opening is overlapped,, easy to sort though
 

 
 

Big thanks to all for your comments.
 
Part 13
The Case Completion
 
The Winter of '22-'23. Rains storms, high winds, and flooding rumbled through California. After years of drought, Mother Nature more than made up for it in three monthes.
 

 
In my drawings I planned to have the the left facing side hinged for access. I realized the arc of the travel would be too high and awkward. In addition the weight of the panel would put too much stress on the whole structure. 
 
In order to keep the frames the same dimension all around I designed and built a corner mockup, seen below, with interlocking cuts. The outside piece remains in place as part of the case, while inside piece is the removable frame and its plex.
 
Now one may ask, how do you remove and replace the access panel? On each corner there is a quarter radious tab that turns 90 degrees to release the panel. With the two knobs pull and loosen the bottom, then with one hand hold the top and remove. Same way in reverse to install.
 
The final touch was engraving the builder's plate. When it finally has a patina I will polish the surface so the letters show up better.
 
Thank you all for showing interest and for your valued comments.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

@ccoyle will you ever take this build any further?

that would look great on my deck, but bit pricey for me

V8 Engine
Teching
Catalogue # DM118
Available from EngineDIY for $699.99 (minus discount code)
 

 
A V8 engine is an eight-cylinder piston engine in which two banks of four cylinders share a common crankshaft and are arranged in a V configuration. The first known V8 was the Antoinette, designed by Léon Levavasseur, and built in 1904 by the French Antoinette company for use in speedboat racing, cars, and later, airplanes. The first V8 engine used in a road-going car was the 1905 Rolls-Royce built in the United Kingdom. This model was initially equipped with a 3.5 L V8 engine. However, only three cars were made before Rolls-Royce reverted to using straight-six engines for their cars. Due to large external dimensions, V8 engines are typically used in cars that use a longitudinal engine layout and rear-wheel drive (or all-wheel drive). However, V8 engines have also occasionally been used in transverse engine front-wheel drive vehicles, sometimes using closer cylinder bore spacings and narrower cylinder bank angles to reduce their space requirements.
 
The kit
 

Like the Radial engine I looked at recently, this kit is supplied in a lovely metal tin some nice artwork designs on the lid and sides/bottom of the packaging. Under the lid, an instruction manual sits on a sheet of clear acetate that further protects the three trays of parts below. Again, the parts are sat in custom made cutouts that hold the parts nicely, and each cutout is engraved with the part numbers of the items therein. In these photos, you'll see a lot of very recognisable parts such as valves, manifolds, crankshaft, camshafts, piston heads, chains etc. All parts are exquisitely machined and finished in various anodised colours that are rugged and certainly didn't mark while I was assembling this model. Again, this model is devoid of lube, despite the text being on the fittings box, so you will need to buy something suitable. I used bike chain oil.
 
The kit spec for this is:
Material: Aluminum Alloy + Stainless Steel Coloring Process: Anodizing Number of Parts: 500+pcs Lithium Battery: 3.7V 500mAh Charging Voltage: DC 5V Charging Time: 2 hours Usage Time: 1 hour Assembling Difficulty: 5 stars Assembly Time: About 5 hours. Product Dimensions: 17.2 x 19.8 x 18cm Product Weight: 2550g Package Dimensions: 34.2 x 24.2 x 15cm Package Weight: 4500g Packing: High-end Metal Gift Box  



 
 
Two fittings boxes are included. All compartments generally hold a few more extra screws, washers, bolts, belts etc. as spares. Five more packs of larger bolts , valve heads, and saddles are included, as well as a small pact of assembly tools. I generally don't use these and instead opt to use my new Wera tools. 

 
 
Instruction manual

A 50-page colour manual is included, containing some nice drawings of the various stages. There's no real shading in the illustrations, which made things clearer with the radial and turbofan engines I built, and this is apparent when the drive belts are fitted. For that process, I needed to look at the engine as halves and how the tensioners worked. A small niggle, but you'll see how I did this when you see the final photos. In the back of the manual, several pages are taken over to showing colour photos of each part, all numbered. 
 
 







 
 
Conclusion
Such a beautifully made kit, and I can say that it assembles beautifully too. It's also quite heavy and sizeable when complete. You'll need a nice space to display it. I speak from experience. Parts quality is most definitely high end and as long as you follow the instructions regarding setting up the engine timing and tensioning, all will be good. Mine ran perfectly from the start. If you do have any issues, then the manual provides a troubleshooting guide to help you.
 
My assessment: A wonderful kit!
 
My sincere thanks to EngineDIY for sending out this kit for review on Model Ship World. To buy direct, click the link in the header of this topic.
 
The next couple of posts will show this model being built and tested. This was a process that took about 6 hours over the weekend, including my photography. 
 
To be continued...
 
 

 

so do I, she is only about 10 foot away, ill get this Occre hull built up and stable and get her back on the table within a week

Thanks Kevin, hopefully you'll return to your Indy before too much longer.

she is looking very nice indeed, well done

day 5 bow and stern blanks
 
the bow and stern blanks were put on and allowed to dry
But your on yr own from there on, a couple of photos in the instruction only show which way to fair from, no guides no templates, its totally up to your self how you wanrt to mess it up
so another request would be to provide a simple template in wood or card for bow and stern to be used as a guide
day 6 main deck planking
at this scale i decided against simulating deck joints and nails, and went for straight runs, the .6*5mm sycamore is ok to use and went down ok, i stained it with a medium oak spirit based stain


day 8 bulwarks
the gun port lids are removed , and kept to one side, i was very short of Yellow occre paint from the indy build, and tried several colours, the yellow desert at time of fitting don't seam right
moan time, the forward laser cut bulkheads  need soaking, but why do they make  them so the grain is vertical, yep i snapped one and then became a pain to sort out, the other side went on ok with 5 mins in hot water
also when fitting the after template they line up with the deck tabs, where as the forward ones do not and also to long by about 5mm which means the bowsprit opening is overlapped,, easy to sort though
 

 
 

Thanks Mugje; yes and now the starboard side is completely planked and I can "raise some sawdust" - but not too much. Don't ask me how I know but you CAN sand all the way through 1mm planking.
 
Here is the starboard side "resting" after being painted with 60/40 PVA/H2O.

that would look great on my deck, but bit pricey for me

that would look great on my deck, but bit pricey for me

day 5 bow and stern blanks
 
the bow and stern blanks were put on and allowed to dry
But your on yr own from there on, a couple of photos in the instruction only show which way to fair from, no guides no templates, its totally up to your self how you wanrt to mess it up
so another request would be to provide a simple template in wood or card for bow and stern to be used as a guide
day 6 main deck planking
at this scale i decided against simulating deck joints and nails, and went for straight runs, the .6*5mm sycamore is ok to use and went down ok, i stained it with a medium oak spirit based stain


day 8 bulwarks
the gun port lids are removed , and kept to one side, i was very short of Yellow occre paint from the indy build, and tried several colours, the yellow desert at time of fitting don't seam right
moan time, the forward laser cut bulkheads  need soaking, but why do they make  them so the grain is vertical, yep i snapped one and then became a pain to sort out, the other side went on ok with 5 mins in hot water
also when fitting the after template they line up with the deck tabs, where as the forward ones do not and also to long by about 5mm which means the bowsprit opening is overlapped,, easy to sort though
 

 
 

day 5 bow and stern blanks
 
the bow and stern blanks were put on and allowed to dry
But your on yr own from there on, a couple of photos in the instruction only show which way to fair from, no guides no templates, its totally up to your self how you wanrt to mess it up
so another request would be to provide a simple template in wood or card for bow and stern to be used as a guide
day 6 main deck planking
at this scale i decided against simulating deck joints and nails, and went for straight runs, the .6*5mm sycamore is ok to use and went down ok, i stained it with a medium oak spirit based stain


day 8 bulwarks
the gun port lids are removed , and kept to one side, i was very short of Yellow occre paint from the indy build, and tried several colours, the yellow desert at time of fitting don't seam right
moan time, the forward laser cut bulkheads  need soaking, but why do they make  them so the grain is vertical, yep i snapped one and then became a pain to sort out, the other side went on ok with 5 mins in hot water
also when fitting the after template they line up with the deck tabs, where as the forward ones do not and also to long by about 5mm which means the bowsprit opening is overlapped,, easy to sort though
 

 
 

that would look great on my deck, but bit pricey for me

that would look great on my deck, but bit pricey for me

Onto the final leg of building the turbofan. 
 
The intermediate casing is now used and fitted with the parts I've just built, as well as inserting a secondary drive shaft through the casting, to the outside, where a gear is installed. 
 


 
 
The sealing plate is now attached, as well as the brackets which will hold the tie rods.

 
 
After fitting its bearing unit, the casing is connected to the forward low pressure casing unit.


 
....followed by the high pressure stator case.

 
The next in line to be fitted to the engine is the combustion chamber.

 
The high pressure turbine is now interred. 


 
 
The anterior vertebrae is now fitted to the back end of the combustion chamber, followed by the cone and the tail nozzle.



 
 
This grand looking engine now needs to be fitted to the test cradle so that it's easier to work on. 

 
 
The electric motor drive unit is now fitted to the low pressure fan casing and some model grade used for lubing the gears.


 
The ties and some other external engine details are now fitted to the engine.






And she is now complete!
 
 
 
I really have to say that this has been a blast to build and despite the high price of the unit, you are left with an extremely heavy and beautiful replica of a turbofan that you can power up and see working. This has taken me a week of evenings to build, and part of a weekend, only broken up by waiting on some replacement parts which came very quickly from China. Would I recommend it? Absolutely! If your budget can stretch to this behemoth, then she will look great on your office desk or cabinet. 
 
Here she is, working...
 
 

Welcome to the best forum, everyone here knows me as the one that never finishes anything