Beef Wellington

Post 64
Mast Coat
This is the last deck fitting I need to make.
Have been thinking about it for a while and I didn't fancy trying to drill and shape this boxwood ring by hand.
So for this little exercise I got the mill out.

5735
I also brought into use the Dividing head to remove the centre.

5736
The beauty of this tool is that it can be used in either the horizontal or vertical plane.

5737
This gives a clue as to the donor for the mast coat.

5739
Shaping the rim is the final operation.

5741
Not for the first time an old Boxwood chess piece has provided the makings.

5746

5755

5754
 A little more tidying up and another milestone sort of reached.

5760
Meanwhile the precious little boxes of fittings delight await their turn.
That about does it for the present, now returning outboard.
 
B.E.
01/02/2019
 

No avalanches in my garden I’ll have you know. Proper engineering there....!
Still alive but busy with work, the munchkin and Christmas period. 

Hello all. I hope everyone who celebrated the Thanksgiving holiday enjoyed themselves. 

Got a little more done over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. The quarter deck and gang boards are in place. Now I am making the 6 pounder canons and carriages. 
 
Tom
Just noticed that I left a couple of temporary supports under the starboard gang boards when I took the pic.  Oops.  Also not to happy with the gap in the center of the deck boards.  Sticks out like a sore thumb in the picture.  Luckily that area will be covered by the forecastle deck so it will not be that obvious.  I may just put a bit of filler in there to help conceal it anyway.
 
 

Got the upper deck cannons mounted and rigged. 

 
Now I will go back and work on the quarter deck and see how that will fit up with this deck. 
Tom

Work on yards and rigging continues. I have now made and added the fore royal and topgallant yards and the gaff. The rigging is comparable to the same yards previously done  on the mainmast. I have added the braces from both of the topgallant yards. All of the lines have been temporarily tied off, pending the completion of the fore mast yards and rigging.
 
Next, and last, will be the  fore lower and topsail yards.
 
Bob

Thank you Jason , and others for likes. Very appreciate it .
Regarding planking. Each plank is made individually to achieve difference in tone and grain direction. Due to this I prepared short sheets of  castello boxwood instead of one single long piece. It is time consuming work but I think it is worth it.

You have a lovely ship going together here Harlequin, as others have said the wood tones are very pleasing and you've done well to make some of the lesser quality fitting really blend in.  Will be following from here on if I may...

OC, Carl, Rob, Thomas, Mike, Dave, Pat and all the likes...definitely helps keeping one moving forward!
 
Finally, have all the guns in position an the breeching ropes in place.  Amazingly time consuming, no more need be said, and glad its behind me.  I did allow myself the small concession of using a ringbolt for the less visible guns, and went with a ringbolt and ring for those visible in the waist area.  Despite the latter being more 'correct', the jury is still out on whether the results totally warrant it at this scale as the eyebolts only version seems acceptable to my eye (comparison photo below).   As usual, dilute PVA was used to help keep the breech ropes in position and to try give them a sense of weight.  Photos seem to call attention to all the little dings and dents that seem unavoidable and thankfully not really noticeable during normal viewing.
 
A very simple jig was used to help keep lengths consistent.  When using rings, I found that opening up a ringbolt using a small metal point and reclosing was easier, faster and predictable than opening up the ring itself.
 

Installation of reinforcement pieces. The easy way to assure parallelism between each one is to set a spacer.
 
2 of these have a double use: they will also receive the planking of the false and first deck.
 
Deck beams of the first deck will rest on a large plank on each side of the boat. Each frame will have 1 notch each side to sit them. The first deck is the one withe the greater span. For this reason, some of the frames will be made in 3 parts with taper notches. This is  a great method to assemble beams. Probably with the weight of the parts only, it would be enough to fix the parts of the beam. I remember the first time I tried it, I was surprise how strong locking this mechanism is able to perform; the same way as a taper sleeve but because the parts are assembled in an arc additional  lateral strengths comes to lock even in a stronger way the assembly.
 
Depending also from the needs, there will be beams from 1 part, example the first 2  in front. beams made from 2 parts will also be include in the first deck depending of the needs.
 
With the fabrication of the camera studio stand, it will be easy to insert  a full frame camera inside. One of the advantage is that it is easy to set the camera parallel to the model. I will try to give access as much as possible inside. For this reason, deck  and wall planking will be install only in essential circumstances. In a way there will be as less as possible longitudinal planks but more perpendicularly to the keel.
 
Parts are temporary fix until all the notches to receive the beams of the first deck are done.
 
I got an answer from Lee Valley and Veritas for the detail knife. Here is a part of the last paragraph:  ''We also have some other design we are working on. In order to avoid any conflict your product submission will not be reviewed by our designers. SO, I can only hope they can produce a sharp knife with their wood plane blade. While this time, when I will want to have a sharper knife, I will regrind one of those  blade  in a V shape or may be I could do a knife blade from  a half  wood plane blade.

current state of play, there are some really interesting and awkward angles and curves in this area

the piece of tinfoil is representing the lead covering for the lancing piece, not sure if I will be adding this piece or I might try and make it out of copper foil, chase port has been cut out on this side with gents saw and I now need to file sand the sill level
regards
Paul
 

Helo,
 
Druxey, could you please tell me, at wich page in Steels „Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture“ I could find that what you meant about the port lids. I have two volumes of it, one from 1805 and an enlarged volume from 1812. The last one I searched through at google books for ports, port-lids and lids and did't find anything related about this topic. The only thing I found was this and that did't say much new about them
 

 
I think, that the lids did't have these steps and that it did't make sense for making the ports more waterproof. If anybody could show me a picture of a contemporary British model, from the time around 1720-1800, or even later, I would be very glad.
 
The Bellona is the only model I know who had this future. But the Bellona was also a model for demonstrating the coppered hull, it may be, that this was also for showing something new for the gun ports. But that it did't make it. 
 
The last days I lined the port lids, who are here in real 3 inch thick, with a 1 inch layer of wood. Today I made the mortise for the lids at the starboard side 0,5 mm deeper, fit the lid in and painted all. 
 

 

 
 
 

Thanks Joe.  I have found the ladders to be a bit of a pain - getting each pair to match has taken quite some time.  I have used a slightly different method to yours. Once the slots for the steps were completed (slightly wider than the steps themselves), I slotted in, and glued the top and bottom steps making sure they were parallel.  Once these were dry, the two intermediate steps were slotted in.  They could then be easily adjusted, if necessary, to make them parallel to the top and bottom, then glued in situ.
 

 
Here are the results: dry-fitted and poly urethane to come.
 


 

 
 
 
 
 

As far as ship building is concerned, January has not been all that productive.  I have put on the various cleats and timberheads and made some progress on the guns.  We spent most of late December until last weekend away, and there were other things to do.  Here is progress such as it is.
The cleats are cast in white metal.  Unfortunately the castings are quite poor as are many of the other castings.



 
 
 
 

That is very very nice Simon.  Are you flipping the planks around to get the slight colour and grain difference between the cut plank pieces?  The results really do speak for themselves.

starboard channels and supports fitted....the hull is getting closer and closer to completion now. I am not going to overdo the rope work on the deck cannons because there is just not enough space at this scale to include everything. The whole hull needs a varnish to bring out the natural wood colours. It is not long ago that Bellona nearly headed to the scrap yard such was my frustration at how the build had gone. It has languished with the odd part getting displaced and damaged. Now the frustration has been replaced with an optimism that she will be completed this year.   

Dead eyes fitted....need tweaking to get them in the right position. Corels fittings are sometimes so poor you would think they would do something about it. The dead eyes are so fragile I will have to be extremely careful later on. There may be trouble ahead .

Now, the photo is post 280 is followed by this one that sits on the starboard side, showing how the rails were dropped before battle. The amount of ropes on deck is amazing, being the tackle and lines for the nets. 
 
I then added 2 pulleys to each boom apart from the front one which will be rigged slightly differently. 

Progress on planking...

Post 62
Completing the Catheads
These are now painted and the cleats attached.

5697
Working sheaves are in place, and I decided to add a decorative panel at the end which on the real thing also served the purpose of protecting the end grain of the Cathead.

5673

5691
Catheads were traditionally decorated and apparently around the beginning of the 19th c a *fouled anchor was in vogue.
*The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650 - 1850 by Peter Goodwin.
No evidence what decoration, if any, Cheerful had on her Cathead, but the idea of a fouled anchor appealed to my sense of irony, so a fouled anchor it is.

5700
Not a fancy carved version as might appear on a more important vessel, but a simple painted affair more appropriate to  a humble cutter.
 
Inboard works continue in my next post.
 
B.E.
28/01/2019
 

OC, Carl, Rob, Thomas, Mike, Dave, Pat and all the likes...definitely helps keeping one moving forward!
 
Finally, have all the guns in position an the breeching ropes in place.  Amazingly time consuming, no more need be said, and glad its behind me.  I did allow myself the small concession of using a ringbolt for the less visible guns, and went with a ringbolt and ring for those visible in the waist area.  Despite the latter being more 'correct', the jury is still out on whether the results totally warrant it at this scale as the eyebolts only version seems acceptable to my eye (comparison photo below).   As usual, dilute PVA was used to help keep the breech ropes in position and to try give them a sense of weight.  Photos seem to call attention to all the little dings and dents that seem unavoidable and thankfully not really noticeable during normal viewing.
 
A very simple jig was used to help keep lengths consistent.  When using rings, I found that opening up a ringbolt using a small metal point and reclosing was easier, faster and predictable than opening up the ring itself.
 

Then I repeat all my actions 120 times.   

Buccaneer '530' of 12 Squadron near St Fink Rattray, Blairgowrie. Autom 1988.
Watercolour 16” X 11” 

Last year I was approached by Katya, a Teacher in a School in Murmansk. She asked if I could help her with some of my paintings of Russian Convoys, for a project she was doing with her pupils for the School Museum. She contacted me through the Dervish75 events which Greta and I Attended. Anyway, today I received a letter with a Christmas Card from her, along with the end result of the project. A small folder with photos of my paintings. It is to be used to promote the School's Museum.
A small thing but a little sign of friendship by the ordinary people of both Countries. Only the angry sensational stuff reaches the media, while us ordinary folk get on with life.
Jim

Scrapyard, an exercise in detail and texture.
jim

OC, Carl, Rob, Thomas, Mike, Dave, Pat and all the likes...definitely helps keeping one moving forward!
 
Finally, have all the guns in position an the breeching ropes in place.  Amazingly time consuming, no more need be said, and glad its behind me.  I did allow myself the small concession of using a ringbolt for the less visible guns, and went with a ringbolt and ring for those visible in the waist area.  Despite the latter being more 'correct', the jury is still out on whether the results totally warrant it at this scale as the eyebolts only version seems acceptable to my eye (comparison photo below).   As usual, dilute PVA was used to help keep the breech ropes in position and to try give them a sense of weight.  Photos seem to call attention to all the little dings and dents that seem unavoidable and thankfully not really noticeable during normal viewing.
 
A very simple jig was used to help keep lengths consistent.  When using rings, I found that opening up a ringbolt using a small metal point and reclosing was easier, faster and predictable than opening up the ring itself.