Beef Wellington

Hello James,
Thank you for salvaging my topic from bottom of the thread list!
 
Daily life, work and other projects have been preventing me from proceeding the Bellerophon, but I hope I will soon restart her after finishing 1/400 miniature model of US side wheel steamer Powhatan. This model is being built as part of diorama of Commodore Perry's second expedition to Japan. The diorama will be exhibited at Yokohama Sailingship Modelers Club exhibition which will be held coming September.
 
Regards,

Good morning

Hi
 
 
 
 

Lovely work Pierre, can't wait to see some pictures soon.  Really is a fine looking kit, the stern looks particularly impressive, think some modern kits could learn a thing or two from this.

Hi all,
 
Thanks again for the likes
 
I've spent a happy day working on the stern of Ethalion today... I mentioned yesterday I wanted to do some more work on the decoration just below the taffrail... I've been working up the courage to try some carving, and the moment had arrived. The narrative involving Ethalion in Ovid's Metamorphoses involves the sailors being turned into dolphins, and so I'd already done a Frankenstinian manoeuvre creating a new figurehead that is a soldier morphine into a dolphin's tail, as below:
 
Now the challenge was to make the stern work too. At present (understandably) it's Diana with her quivers full of arrows slung over her back, and lions on each side showing she's a huntress. But I wanted to put dolphins in the Lions' place... Was my carving up to it? Well, I'm amazed at what some patience can do ... I glued 6x2 strips of castello boxwood edge to edge with carpenters glue and printed out some pictures of dolphins and sketched them onto the wood, then I set to work. I chain-drilled round the outside of the dolphin to get the shape, and then gently and slowly, with a brand new x-acto blade carved away.
 
Here are some of the stages as I went, and the finished items... I may thin them down a little more. The tails proved almost impossible to keep stuck to the dolphin during this process, so were carved separately and glued on. Painted, they fit quite nicely with the existing decorations. It's made me want to try some more bits! The bug has bitten!



 

I then spent some time getting the top angle of the stern right so that the rail sits parallel to the line of the side rails as they approach the stern. Once this angle was right, I glued on another strip of box to neaten up the edge (the ends aren't stuck down yet in the picture below). The observant among you will notice that somewhere along the line I also lost one of the decorative bits that goes between the windows and search as I might I could not find it. Happily, Caldercraft provide one spare... I need to make sure I don't lose that one!

Next step is to mark the extra decoration between the dolphins and the ladies at each end, and paint that in before sticking the decorations in place. Then I think I shall store this somewhere safe until I'm a bit further along.
 
Take care
 
Rob
 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Thanks Mike, Al, Dirk, Thomas Pat, Joe and all the likes for kind words and continued interest.   It feels like its been so long since I provided an update that I'm going to do just that, even though I don't think I've really reached a "point of completion" worthy of note, it will serve to document a few things before I forget.
 
Ladders:
How to approach these?  Having known for some time I wouldn't be happy with the kit supplied items I've been pondering how to get a half decent result without the table saw that I aspire to one day!  In the end, a simple jig made up some 2mm thick strip with one face carefully angled using a Proxxon disk sander proved to do the job well enough.  Once the treads were cut to the same length, simply slotting into the jig, placing glue on the ends and placing the stringers proved simple enough.  Removing from the jig after a couple if minutes before the glue cures fully makes for much easier (lower stress) removal.  The central stringer on the wider ladder was simulated with individual 1x2mm pieces.  The sharper eyed among you will notice a notch cut in the back of the wider one, more on that in a moment...
 

 
Everything is just dry fitted, but pretty pleased with how these look in place.  (Side-note:  I did go a little crazy and placed a grating on the false lower deck as shown on the plans.  This proved to actually be quite visible, more so in person than shows up in the photos and adds a little additional depth).
 

 
For the main hatch, I ran into a little dilemma.  In previous posts you can see how I had simulated the cross beam from the plans, this did cause a problem though when it came to figuring out how the ladder fits here.  First attempt below was of a shorter stringer with one less tread, but although this terminates at the height of the beam, it just didn't seem right as it would be a real stretch for Captain Stirling to hoist his leg up reasonably.  I also built a longer version with one additional riser, this seems more appropriate, but requires the aforementioned notch to be cut into the back of the stringer to fit around the beam.  Despite hiding a feature I had quite proudly included, it does look better to my eye and certainly more practical - I can only speculate that this is the solution used on the real ship.
 
Rejected first solution:

 
Dockyard approved solution:

 
Cole Pumps:
Another very dominant feature that will be visible are the Cole chain pumps.  The kit provides 3 pieces to build up into the cistern and the domed cover, but these would require painting.  I wanted to try and improve on these, and possible explore keeping these a natural finish.  After struggling to reconcile the dimensions in the AOTS book, I gave up because none of the scale diagrams agree to each other.  In the end, I used the guidance in TFFM to approximate dimensions and adjusted to account for the wider width of the partners, and ensure that the height of the top of the cistern is a scale 3' 7" off the deck as TFFM specifies - this makes total sense as this would likely land mid chest for most people which would be an optimal height to operate most efficiently.  The covers are still a work in progress as I will cover in castello planking.  These are still in process, but overall, these took quite a while to figure out and proved to be very fiddly, but they are a heck of lot of fun to do!
 
The mainmast partners have also been simulated using a simplified structure as this will be almost completely obscured when all the various pumps and cross pieces are finally in place.
 

 
Paint choice for metal:
Think I've decided on the colour to use for metal items, Tamiya Dark Iron XF-84.  The photos of course don't show the subtlety visible to the eye, being a definite browny black, but this colour is very very similar to blackend brass.  I've been reluctant to paint the beautiful RB barrels and the fact that this colour blends in so well means that I think I can now feel sure to keep these as is but know that non-metal items can be made to trick the eye.  I built the stove provided in the kit up to prove this out and is a pleasant contrast to the Admiralty 'matte metal black ' used on the coamings and other wales.  BTW - despite assembling this, I'm pretty sure I will be trying to scratch build my own stove....just because....
 

Indeed they are wipers, Captain's windows for enjoying the view while sipping coffee in his comfy chair, can't let rain interfere....

As is my ilk, I tend to research, think, then jump right in.  My next step is the ship's boats.  I've been looking over the plans and sorting out to do this with out making a dog's breakfast of it.  For the cutter and the barge (the two smaller boats) I'm going to use a modified jig.   The longboat will be built around the plug that I already have made.  This may change once I really get into things.
 
Basically, I have a couple of old ME ship's boat kits.. a 5 inch and one that appears to be 6"  (by their definition).   To make a long story short, I took their instructions and modified the heck out of the plans and the thus, new parts, which I've drawn up and cut on the laser using boxwood for the keel, the stern, and first frame.   The only seats will be the fixed ones at the rear and bow.  I'll decide on what goes in this boat once I get it put together.   But, historically, everything was removed, rudder, oars, the benches the rowers used, etc. and stored in the hold.  The other two will be the same since the boats were stacked n the gundeck.
 
The picture shows the keel with the stern structure and also the first frame.   The stern structure gets planked externally first before doing the strakes.   The frame has been modified for the forward "seat" instead of a bulkhead as some boats (other navies) had.  As soon as I get the forms added to the build board, I'll start install the keel and start planking.   Looks to be another small (size) fun part of the build.
 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Looking really good Bob, great paint results and good choice on the veneers, the problem you identify seems endemic to precut kit parts.  Turned out really well after your extra work.

Hi

Just found your build log and to say I am impressed is a very large understatement - superb modelling skills!  I will be following with interest.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looking really good Bob, great paint results and good choice on the veneers, the problem you identify seems endemic to precut kit parts.  Turned out really well after your extra work.

Scharnhorst issue 44
 

 
We get to cover and kit out in brass the port side of the forward deck structures.

Thanks OC.
 
The mortar housings are proving to be very tricky - particularly the removable canopies. Shown below are canopy components - the lower one is taken from the walnut ply as supplied which is quite coarse and unlike any of the other timber in the overall assembly; the upper one is that component with the same wood veneer I applied elsewhere.  The point is there are five different wood textures/colours  which makes the whole assembly look like a dog's breakfast.   I have used the veneer in an attempt to make the finish/colour a little more consistent.
 

Here are some stages of the construction.
 

 

Getting the middle supports for the canopies correctly positioned is tricky indeed. Here I a couple of pieces of timber strip which were (i hoped) the right thickness (about 1.5mm) to raise the supports to the correct height. The piece of timber towards the top of the photo is to keep the support square and vertical.
 

Here is one of the semi-finished canopies. The top has not been sanded, nor has a coat or two of polyurethane.  The light strip in the centre is an experiment and has not been fixed.
 

 

This shows both the light and the matching centre strips. I will probably discard the light strip, though I don't think it looks too bad.  Once the required touching up is done at least two coats of polyurethane will be applied to everything above the first three layers of timber.

 

 
 

Thanks Jobbie, there's plenty of room.
 
Painting the white stuff below the wale is, I hope, complete.  It has proved to be very time-consuming and frustrating.  For those who may follow, I suggest the waterline be masked about 1mm below the low point of the wale, rather than flush with it.  The latter requires the making tape to be tucked over the lower side of the wale which makes it difficult to make it adhere properly.  It makes the tape stick to both the side of the wale and its bottom, and if my experience is a guide, the tape doesn't like to do that.  Taping about a mill. or so beneath the wale will enable the making tape to have a good grip immediately below it.
 
Below is the result of 5 coats of admiralty matt white acrylic (brushed on and sanded between each coat), one coat of Humbrol spray acrylic (I only had enough for one coat, but by that time the whole thing didn't look too bad), and 3 coats of spray polyurethane.  If I had my time over, I would have bought another can of Humbrol for the lot. 
 
Incidentally Jason, the poly does tone down the brilliant white to be a pleasant ivory colour. The black paint on the stem has yet to have polyurethane applied, which should give a better finish.
 

 

 

 


 

 

 
 
 
 
 

OC: thanks for your advice. Sorry not to have replied earlier but other things intruded on boating matters.
 I still have some problems with admiralty paints lack of adhesion, even after a great deal of surface preparation and allowing 24 hours to dry.  It makes masking over it difficult.  The white painting is now finally complete - the required masking finally successful.  I am now waiting for the black trim on the stem to dry before taking off the masking tape there.
 
In the meantime I have done some work on the mortar housings.  The sides are made of three layers each one shaped in a rough octagon in a single piece of walnut.  This leaves the end-grain showing on four surfaces which does not look 'right'.  I have used some 0.5mm veneer to cover the end-grain and here is the result.
 
This shows the end-grain.
 

And here is the veneer.
 

 

 
 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Thanks Mike, Al, Dirk, Thomas Pat, Joe and all the likes for kind words and continued interest.   It feels like its been so long since I provided an update that I'm going to do just that, even though I don't think I've really reached a "point of completion" worthy of note, it will serve to document a few things before I forget.
 
Ladders:
How to approach these?  Having known for some time I wouldn't be happy with the kit supplied items I've been pondering how to get a half decent result without the table saw that I aspire to one day!  In the end, a simple jig made up some 2mm thick strip with one face carefully angled using a Proxxon disk sander proved to do the job well enough.  Once the treads were cut to the same length, simply slotting into the jig, placing glue on the ends and placing the stringers proved simple enough.  Removing from the jig after a couple if minutes before the glue cures fully makes for much easier (lower stress) removal.  The central stringer on the wider ladder was simulated with individual 1x2mm pieces.  The sharper eyed among you will notice a notch cut in the back of the wider one, more on that in a moment...
 

 
Everything is just dry fitted, but pretty pleased with how these look in place.  (Side-note:  I did go a little crazy and placed a grating on the false lower deck as shown on the plans.  This proved to actually be quite visible, more so in person than shows up in the photos and adds a little additional depth).
 

 
For the main hatch, I ran into a little dilemma.  In previous posts you can see how I had simulated the cross beam from the plans, this did cause a problem though when it came to figuring out how the ladder fits here.  First attempt below was of a shorter stringer with one less tread, but although this terminates at the height of the beam, it just didn't seem right as it would be a real stretch for Captain Stirling to hoist his leg up reasonably.  I also built a longer version with one additional riser, this seems more appropriate, but requires the aforementioned notch to be cut into the back of the stringer to fit around the beam.  Despite hiding a feature I had quite proudly included, it does look better to my eye and certainly more practical - I can only speculate that this is the solution used on the real ship.
 
Rejected first solution:

 
Dockyard approved solution:

 
Cole Pumps:
Another very dominant feature that will be visible are the Cole chain pumps.  The kit provides 3 pieces to build up into the cistern and the domed cover, but these would require painting.  I wanted to try and improve on these, and possible explore keeping these a natural finish.  After struggling to reconcile the dimensions in the AOTS book, I gave up because none of the scale diagrams agree to each other.  In the end, I used the guidance in TFFM to approximate dimensions and adjusted to account for the wider width of the partners, and ensure that the height of the top of the cistern is a scale 3' 7" off the deck as TFFM specifies - this makes total sense as this would likely land mid chest for most people which would be an optimal height to operate most efficiently.  The covers are still a work in progress as I will cover in castello planking.  These are still in process, but overall, these took quite a while to figure out and proved to be very fiddly, but they are a heck of lot of fun to do!
 
The mainmast partners have also been simulated using a simplified structure as this will be almost completely obscured when all the various pumps and cross pieces are finally in place.
 

 
Paint choice for metal:
Think I've decided on the colour to use for metal items, Tamiya Dark Iron XF-84.  The photos of course don't show the subtlety visible to the eye, being a definite browny black, but this colour is very very similar to blackend brass.  I've been reluctant to paint the beautiful RB barrels and the fact that this colour blends in so well means that I think I can now feel sure to keep these as is but know that non-metal items can be made to trick the eye.  I built the stove provided in the kit up to prove this out and is a pleasant contrast to the Admiralty 'matte metal black ' used on the coamings and other wales.  BTW - despite assembling this, I'm pretty sure I will be trying to scratch build my own stove....just because....
 

Thanks everyone for interest and kind words
 
Frolick - thanks for posting the history of that action, always very interesting to read.
 
Final comments on the stern, brief notes, and pictures thrown in just for spice:
 
The roof of the quarter galleries was really the last major hurdle to getting the 'look' of the stern as I wanted it.  This did pose a conundrum, as options abounded.  Other frigates of the period typically seemed to have the more classical fluted columns between lights and shingled 'roof' to the quarter galleries, and the contemporary models of Diana have a highly decorative roof and columns which Christian (Barbossa) has replicated so beautifully on his Diana.  In the end, just decided to follow the AOTS book and its distinctly Georgian look which I like and use some of the kit supplied mouldings.
 
The roof itself was made from some spare stock and shaped to dimensions less that that suggested by the instructions using the plans.  The kit provides some soft metal decorations, although how they are supposed to be applied is a mystery as the roof has a quite fine, but pronounced convex-concave shape.  I very carefully attacked this with a dremel and removed the thickness of the metal backing to leave the decorative elements which felt a little more in keeping with the scale.  This was less challenging that at first thought, though care is certainly required and fine tuning with a sanding stick.  The only problem was that the these did have a tendency to break, although these can be reassembled without too much difficulty in situ.
 
With the roof in place the stern seems to have acquired its (almost) final form, some decorations between the lights need to be applied still as appear on the stern, and a molding will ultimately the placed on top.  Overall, I am very happy with the way this turned out, and proved to be more challenging than I had initially thought.  I've talked at length at some faults with the dimensions and shapes of the provided PE parts but I think these can be used to provide reasonable results with some planning.  These do look much better to the human eye, the camera seems to highlight the slightest misalignment 
 

 
The sheer rail could now be placed, and fortuitously this landed almost exactly where it should lining up with the top of the quarter gallery roof.  Gaps have been left for the channels which will be positioned later.  Steps, fenders and chesstrees have also been attached after reducing slightly to the expected level of the deck.  Not much else to say so I'll leave with some pictures...
 

Thanks all for the nice words, likes and continued interest.  Know its been a while, seems as if I hit some sort of 'modelers wall'.  Before I can really continue with the topsides, I needed to turn my attention to mounting the rudder.  This is something I've been putting off for quite a while, and proved to be a very frustrating experience.  I had initially delayed doing this to allow the copper to oxidize as much as possible just in case of any errant CA glue and prevent shiny spots.
 
The kit provides PE rudder and pintle straps, but for some reason I couldn't get comfortable with them.  On Snake, the staps come with holes and pins were inserted, but this was something that in retrospect look a little too clunky and out of scale.  Looking at pictures of period ships, the bolts/nails are quite a subtle feature similar to treenails in visibility.  I experimented with card and styrene strip  to make these from scratch, but in the end decided to go with the supplied PE parts.  I forgot to take a picture, but instead of premade holes, these have rather large circular indentations in them, I'm guessing to simulate the bolts.  To my eye they looked to far apart, and the holes too big.  I made a slight alteration to increase the number of bolts/nail heads by drilling additional indentations to simulate what was already there.  The rudder straps also needed to be shortened quite considerably to eliminate overhang at the rear of the rudder.  These were painted with "Admiralty copper" paint after experimenting with other similar Tamiya colours.
 
The main challenge I found was to attach these without marring the copper plates, and this proved to be quite the challenge as at first the CA glue wouldn't provide a good bond and needed to be reapplied.  Scratching the hull plates and inside surface of the PE seemed to get things strong enough. The rudder proved quite the challenge to mount as this had been made with a low (for me) level of tolerance following the AOTS plans which is documented earlier in the log.
 
Interestingly, the box artwork shows a spectacle plate, but there is nothing in the kit nor instructions.  This was simulated using painted card and eyebolts, but interestingly there is very little room for this, however this seems consistent with AOTS diagrams.  The ironwork on the lower counter ports used some PE parts from the "Badger" set which I had bought a number of years ago.  These looked a little more in keeping scale wise than what is provide in this kit.  I may add ring bolts and rings to these, but will likely not rig with line as I'm concerned this may be a visual distraction - personal preference of course.  Next up will be to attach the rudder chains which, nicely, are provided in the kit.
 

 

Rigging of the yards: almost finished (a bit of touch up and a final trimming is needed).
 

How quickly time passes ... even if you're not having fun!
 
Finally I got some time at the "bench". Had some restorative work on the hull, finished the decks, front and rear, as far as possible to be painted. Masked the decks, partly with tape, partly with an extra wooden deck I won't be using. Dragged the monster to my spray booth for priming. Hope to do some shading this week, but that depends on the boss, and the additional freelance work I got presently.
Please, don't mind the very poor quality of the images. I'll try to get some better quality shots tomorrow if the weather cooperates ...
 

 
Decks have not yet been glued down. First shading on the bit of super structure fixed to the deck, then the hull. Haven't decided yet if I'll get the colour (grey ... very colourful) on first before I mount the decks to the hull or after. The main problem will be putting on the wooden deck if everything is attached. So some minor headaches before I'll be ready with that ...