Beef Wellington

Looking good Paul.  Its very hard to tell from photos, having experienced this issue myself, I concluded that to look 'right' the angle of the foremost pillar should be the same as the stern fascia when viewed from the side.  The others then need to be parallel to these when viewed from the side.  Of course that means that the sides of the lights themselves are completely different shapes.  I'm sure others can comment more definitively on my purely visual impression.

Number three, I think we are nearly there


So now just need to take these bars out cut some boxwood and start making the windows, the plans show nine pane lights but at this size I might go with four as druxey did above
Thanks druxey for all your help
Regards
Paul 
 

Love it Siggi, so glad to find your new model.  Love the figurehead and the lines of Tiger are very pretty indeed.  Can't wait to see more.

I’ve not done a build log before but it seems like all the action on the Model Expo Confederacy has died out. So I thought I would put together an short photo log on my Confederacy project.
I started this build August 9, 2016. My intent was to build her per the kit plans and with whatever came in the box. That has changed somewhat. I am using the steering wheel kit and cannon carriages from Syren Model Company, brass cannon form Maritime Models, and lime wood for the deck from Cornwall Ltd. Instead of making my own double bead trim I purchased it from Northeastern Scale Lumber.
The pictures are recent covering the planking, building the transom, and now planking the inside of the bulwarks. I took a break planking a couple of months ago and built the stove, steering wheel, capstan, round houses, and binnacles.
I’d love to rig her but that will take some serious consideration.




Bottom paint
Double bead trim getting painted
Took a break to work on other parts
Test fit

John, that's a really well executed authentic looking cannon and carriage, well done.  The consensus seems to be building on the RB barrel, Syren carriage combo.  I too had the same issue with the thickness of the stool bed causing the elevation problem with the quoin, I replaced these with custom cut 1mm thick parts which visually is not too different but your approach is much purer.  My thinking was swayed I think by having 28 of the blighters to do...

Hi Joe and Jason.  Thanks for your comments.
 
Joe: I found the acrylic thinner to be quite effective. As well, before brushing I dampened the brush.  The combination worked well.  Unfortunately I only discovered all of this fairly late in the process.  Oh well .....  I have just put on a coat of acrylic spray and things are beginning to look almost respectable. A couple more coats may do the trick.
 
Jason: I'm sticking with the matt white.  However I will cover it with 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane, which if previous experience is a guide, will tone down the colour to be more 'ivory'.  I certainly agree that the brilliant white really just doesn't look 'right'.

Great pictures, everything looks so fine and 'to scale', really nice looking model Pat!

Hi Bob, I've experienced the same problem.  I'm sure thinners would work, but I've found using regular tap water can work just fine as well using a larger brush.  Gives a much smoother surface with a longer dry time, of course you need more coats.  Have you decided upon a paint colour? I quite like the Admiralty "Light Ivory" colour which is a little more subdued than plain white, but I'm sure there are other brands.

Thanks for your suggestion OrLin. I decided before taking more drastic action, to thin the admiralty paint with Tamiya acrylic paint thinner. It seems to have worked quite well. I have sanded the hull around the peeled paint and so far have applied 4 coats of the thinned paint over it.  The surface now doesn't look too bad (photos later).  I am now running short of paint (!) though there is probably enough for another coat.  If I need more I will use Tamiya acrylic as it is readily available here.  I will then spray it with some leftover Humbrol matt white acrylic followed by polyurethane spray and hope the whole thing looks respectable.  The white shows up every fault unfortunately and there are plenty.
 
The following photos show marking the waterline with Tamiya tape for curves (excellent) and an Amati waterline marker (works well, but probably not worth the price).
 
 



 

 

 

 
Sometime in the last few weeks I made up the mortars.  Following Rafine's and Joe's leads I stuck a couple of handles on each. Here's how they turned out. There was of course one small disaster. I seem to have lost one of the mortar chocks.  I guess one of the mortars will have to lay down or I'll have to make one up.
 

 


 
 

Perhaps these images will help?

Reconstruction has started

To curved and the top is bigger than the bottom as I didn't take the taffrell into consideration when I cut them

Major trimming needed
Regards
Paul
 

The lowest side rails are now in, and I have painted the hull above them, ready for decoration.
 
I'm going to do this side all the way through first, so I can do the other side (which will be my display side) better if I learn anything unexpected.
 
Regards,
David

Thank you, Nils!
 
All of the gun ports are now faired. I've started work on the stern framing. Again, I won't be using the laser cut kit parts. These six frames were cut from boxwood sheet. The slotted bulkheads allow for accurate placement of each frame, though it was necessary to make very slight adjustments to insure that the aft edges remained parallel to each other. Looking ahead, I can see that it would be easy to shift the frames out of position while adding the lower sills, lintels and Quarter Gallery Framing. I will keep a close eye on this. So far, things look good.

Mike

And here I have finally created the sculpture of the Queen Catherine. I used her portraits and other sources of suitable information to achieve this appearance.
https://www.google.cz/search?biw=1366&bih=662&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=WbrlWunRM4ymsgH53b2gCQ&q=queen+catherine+of+braganza&oq=queen+catherine+of+braganza+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i30k1.7973.7973.0.9707.1.1.0.0.0.0.113.113.0j1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.113....0.0GmofsBz4WU
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catherine_of_Braganza
 
The clothing is in an ancient style similar to the Vale's painting.
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=420#p2108444
https://www.modelforum.cz/download/file.php?id=1399865
 


 
 
In the last two photos there is a statue after some minor improvements.
 

 

Hello dear friends,
 
I am pleased, you like my sculpting and work on the Royal Katherine. Thank you very much for your comments and kind words.
 

 
Dear Michael, 
I do appreciate your praise, thank you.
The possibility of improvement is very important for me in my life and also in my hobbies. It is a great motivation to search better technologies and progresses or utilization of various methods from other fields. For example I do the "detailing" for many years - this represents a high level of precise care of real cars (especially their paint/varnish) and I use my own technology = a special waxes prepared exactly according to the type and condition of the paint. This allows me to achieve perfect  and durable results in a gentle way, and it si also environmentally friendly, cause I can use only clean water without a shampoo to wash the car. And these waxes I use on my models as well to achieve better finish and more realistic look. For example the wooden part of hull planking on the Royal Katherine model was gently polished by such wax and thanks to that the wooden imitation looks so naturally.
Even while building models, I'm still learning and improving my abilities to make the results worth it.
 
I have finished other pieces of decoration on the stern and QG on starboard. Now I am searching for an optimal location of the decks and floors on stern cabins. I would like to make it according to real English ships from that period but I must admit this is not easy at all.....  I have already received a lot of useful and professional  infromation about this matter from my advisor Kpt.KL. He also describes the position of decks on real 17th-century ships on Czech Modelforum, cause many people there are very interested in realistic building of ship models as well.
 
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=375#p2104504
 
 
 
 

Great pictures, everything looks so fine and 'to scale', really nice looking model Pat!

And others.....
 
Please enjoy the pics, soon I will add new ones.
 
Best regards, 
Doris

Well 10 days with two hyperactive munchkins proved .... diverting.  Despite this, a little progress has been made.  'Treenails' have now been put in the wale.  I suspect it's hardly worth the effort, but anyway it's done.
 
Again I have used Tamiya tape, both as a guide and to prevent the bit slipping.

 

Below are the results before a coat of polyurethane.  The treenaills can only be really seen under direct light shining on an angle.  The polyurethane will probably further obscure them - but at least they're there.

 

 
 
 

Great pictures, everything looks so fine and 'to scale', really nice looking model Pat!

Hi folks some further small details added.  i have now attached all of the cleats, some eyebolts and the ready-use shot garlands, along with the leadsman's platform and the port hawse hole bucklar.  The leadsman's platform will have two stanchions added with a strap between them into which he would have leaned when tossing and retrieving the leadline.  The ladder needs to be redone as the forward rope top knot came loose (cut too close  )  You can also see the heads and pissdales fitted, with the port side head shown closed and stbd open.
 


 
I have also added some detail to the catheads.  The photo is hard to discern detail from but the release mechanism has been fitted with the chain (in the released position).  I am still not sure whether to lead the pull rope for the locking pin up and over the rail as shown or to remove it as it doesn't seem to sit right.  It would have been there as it would be simply to dangerous for a man to climb out (the chain would whip back and catch him when released if he did so.  The chain is 29l.p.i and as a size indicator is that the portholes (actually Lang's scuttles) are only 2mm diameter - so this is ultra close up.
 

 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi, and tank you, aviaamator
 
anothers pictures:
 

Hi Niles, catching up on your progress can't believe how you accomplish so much so quickly!  The rigging on this ship is fascinating a makes a nice change from the usual 19th century warships.  Beautiful and innovative work as usual, love the details you've put on.

Of course everything is looking good!  One thing that jumped out at me was the ladders in your earlier post, looks like there are two ladders coming up from lower deck, one port and one starboard, looks to be a very challenging setup to avoid accidents if both sides are being used simulataneously and doesn't seem to leave much headroom space when coming up - do you know if that is a unique French design?

John, that's a really well executed authentic looking cannon and carriage, well done.  The consensus seems to be building on the RB barrel, Syren carriage combo.  I too had the same issue with the thickness of the stool bed causing the elevation problem with the quoin, I replaced these with custom cut 1mm thick parts which visually is not too different but your approach is much purer.  My thinking was swayed I think by having 28 of the blighters to do...

John, that's a really well executed authentic looking cannon and carriage, well done.  The consensus seems to be building on the RB barrel, Syren carriage combo.  I too had the same issue with the thickness of the stool bed causing the elevation problem with the quoin, I replaced these with custom cut 1mm thick parts which visually is not too different but your approach is much purer.  My thinking was swayed I think by having 28 of the blighters to do...