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Beef Wellington reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Thanks for the comments folks. I have now added the 150cm spotlights and the gantry which runs in front of the funnel. I have also commenced on the rigging whist I still have access to the funnel without the fore and aft towers. I've done as much weathering as I can for the moment.
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Beef Wellington reacted to rwiederrich in Best Practices for Copper Plating the Hull taking into Consideration Scale and Overall Artistic Presentation of the Ship
I simply build a roller gig and embossed copper tape then applied and painted with a brown metallic paint and then dull coated.
To mimic the old plates on the Cutty Sark.
Images show the effect I was looking for.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from CiscoH in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM and the likes - thanks so much.
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year. If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it. Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can. Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue. I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible. I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics! Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned. I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable. Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added. I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent. I wont attach these until later. Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends. These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me. The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet. I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.
I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.
And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..
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Beef Wellington reacted to rafine in Halifax by rafine - FINISHED - The Lumberyard - 1:48 - semi-scratch schooner
Time to get started on the frames. I've settled on the following procedure for doing them:
1) Remove the 9 parts for a frame from the laser sheet
2) Remove the laser char from the joints between futtocks
3) Using double sided clear tape, attach one layer of parts to the plan sheet for that frame, with the joints glued
4) Glue the second layer of futtocks on top of the first
5) Sand the faces of the frame until there is a fit to both the keel and the jig
6) Fill any joints, as necessary, with filler made of sanding sawdust and glue
7) Use strip wood to make any adjustment necessary to the keel notch on the frame
8) do some preliminary fairing to both the outside and inside edges of the frame
9) Treenail the futtock joints using the "drill and fill" method
10) Apply Wipe-on poly to the faces of the frame
11) Glue the frame into the appropriate jig notch using clamps to hold it in place and a straight edge to keep it square
12) Use the keel to insure proper fit and spacing after each pair is set at opposite ends
I've completed two pairs of frames now and so far, so good. The good news has been that using the laser cut pieces is a whole lot easier than cutting them all out by hand. The parts also fit the drawings fairly well. The not so good news is the amount of work necessary to get a snug fit to the keel. Also, as I feared, the frame drawings and parts don't match up to the jig exactly, causing some need for further tweaks. All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with how it's going to this point.
Bob
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from CiscoH in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
A little update to what must be the worlds slowest moving build log. Coppering on the hull is pretty much done, the only piece still to do is the aft side of the sternpost which will need some work done on pintles/gudgeons finished before I can do...more to come on that in a follow up post. Just for a cathartic moment for me, pictures of where I'm at. Like others, I wanted to give the copper more of an aged patina, all personal taste. Rather than following the bodily fluid method used by others (I must confess to being worried my model would smell like a car park for evermore!) I experimented with a chemical from JAX called - BROWN Brass, Bronze, Copper darkener (they also make a 'BLACK' version which seems to work well). I diluted this to around 25%-33% by experimentation which seemed to give the best results. It takes a number of applications, and I simply 'painted' it on with a modeling nylon brush. Found that rubbing and agitating the surface while doing this gives best results. Initially, the surface is very hydrophobic, but once the oxidation starts, its becomes much easier to keep a consistent surface covering and beading is not desired as it leads to dark spots. The more dilute solution tends to green more upon drying, but this can be easily wiped off with water and/or rubbing alchohol. Personally, I didn't want a green monster, and was happy to have a little patina in the crevices/nail holes which is almost a negative effect for how the plates are supplied. I'm not planning to seal the copper (yet if at all) as this should then continue to age naturally, I very consciously forced myself to stop despite there being some patchy spots but these all blend in and to my eye have a natural look anyway.
Bunch of photos which hopefully show the copper plate pattern in various areas, hope its not overkill, these are the kinds of pictures that I find useful from others.
More to come soon on the rudder..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from md1400cs in HMS Pegasus by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 scale
Out of breath reading the last installment, so much to consider, the only think missing from this rip roaring tale are a couple of gypsies thrown in for spice. I was devastated to see the issues with the log (seems to be every time that there is an upgrade) and want to say again how appreciative of your time and effort I, and I'm sure everyone, is to keep this jewel of a log alive and kicking. So much great information, tips and tricks...I love the shot of the great cabin deck, I'm assuming its not accessible at this point though?
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Beef Wellington reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you guys,
the galley stove is ready, it remains only to finish a few details and make the blackening.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Thanks Jose. I decided while considering the dreaded parrals, to mount the spritsail yard (I think this is known as avoidance). The yard provide quite a bit of difficulty. Gravity is always working against you. With a few more payments to the swear jar, the wretched thing is finally on and has turned out acceptably. While all of that was going on, the blocks for the two upper forestays came away from the jib boom. I did not rejoice, particularly as it was caused by some rather inferior knot-tying earlier in my knot-tying career. It took four attempts to obtain an acceptable result. In the process I discovered a mistake in my rigging which at least I was able to correct - so at least something good came out it.
Here is some of the detail. I may have gone a bit overboard with the photos, but the thing is rather complicated and very crowded. These pictures may help some other poor souls who are yet to get to this stage.
How it looks - with lots of things still to be tied off.
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Beef Wellington reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The foreyard has finally been hoisted. It was a rather fraught process. The jeers, sling, truss pendants and nave line are all done, though nothing has been finally tied off yet. At least I learned a lesson when some of the stays became slack in the hot weather.
Here are the jeers in prgress. I found it best to gradually raise the yard by about 10mm then tighten the lines to the blocks then repeat the process until the yard was at the correct height. It took quite some time.
Here is the start ....
...and about halfway up.
Rigging the sling was a bit fiddly. I lifted the sling to give easier access, tied the thread to the upper thimble, then down to the lower thimble, then repeated the process (make sure the thread is long).
(I changed the 'tarred' thread for natural)
Finished, though not tied off.
Here is the nave line. I'm not sure the result was worth all the trouble, though I am glad now that it's there. All the rigging surrounding it made the whole thing a rather fraught process.
This what the yard now looks like -since taking these photos I have made the footropes to hang properly.
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Beef Wellington reacted to Jdieck in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Best photos I could get with the ipad Sorry.
As you can see, it was a nightmare getting all of them in there.
Also As you can see I was very happy with the top quality of Chuck's blocks, smooth, two holes, properly rounded and grooved for the rope and ties.
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Beef Wellington reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
I have finally tied off most of the lines to the fore bitts. They came out reasonably well (though not nearly as well as Jose's).
This is how they came out.
Now I'm not sure of the next step - do all of the yards on the foremast? or the lower yards on each mast? Advice is very welcome.
The following photo isn't as clear as it could be, and I have made a minor adjustment to the lines since it was taken.
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Beef Wellington reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The main yard is now on, the truss pendants and the jeers are belayed, though not finally tied off. In the diagram in my previous post, the nave line was omitted - that makes seventeen lines to be tied off somehow. I had more than enough fun belaying the five lines so far done. At this stage I don't know whether to finally tie off these lines now and make up their respective rope coils. With another dozen lines to fit it, won't be possible to coil them all.
Here is how things stand at the moment.
The photo of the nave line is quite poor I'm afraid.
The fore and main yards are reasonably lined up. Adjustments can be made if necessary.
At the moment there seem to be lines going all over the place.
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Beef Wellington reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Thanks for the encouragement Jose. I have been doing my best to forget about belaying lines for the time being. Unfortunately I chose to put up the fore top yard which requires a parral to attach to the mast. I looked to Petersson for the method of mounting the parral as well as a few build logs. Alas, I am no wiser. In particular the illustrations in Petersson are essentially useless - at least to me. Here they are.
So far, so good ....
I used a dummy mast and yard to see how the thing may work.
And here is how it is supposed to end up, though how is a mystery to me. Help would be gratefully received.
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Beef Wellington reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
A little update.
I have make a few decorations and rudder and a lot of tiny stuff !
I need more time with the painting then other things.
So it goes really slowly !
DeAgostini has a lot of metal parts that should be painted.
Even the little figures but that's for later.
At this moment I am putting the wales on.
Not a easy task because I have to lie the ship on her side !
I know I have to look forwards but this is at book number 80 !
When you have a big drawing you can see it in advance.
But now ?
Sometimes I'm thinking.....go in the closet and stay there !
But nope, it has also a little charme.... ( don't know witch one but it looks so nice when i wrote it down )
Enough complaining and pictures !
Sjors
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from BenD in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from reklein in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Seventynet in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
My health has declined in the last 6 months Haven't been able to do much at all. Have started to rig the breech lines on the carronades. This kind of work is much more difficult for me now than it was just last year. I see that things will be going much slower for me so there will be longer periods of time between updates but I'll be doing what I can when I can.
Not much to show but it's a start. One of our pets keeping close by for some comfort.
Jesse
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from md1400cs in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Timmo in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Papa in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from piter56 in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow..Christian, Doug, Pat, Harvey, Carl, Tom, Wayne, VACorsair, Eamonn, and the likes, thanks guys for interest and the overly kind words. Narrative below will explain more, but think I've irrevocably stepped off the 'being happy with kit parts' ledge...this can only mean even slower progress...but perhaps more fun
I know I'm bouncing around a bit so apologies for that, but continuing foundational aspects which seem easier with the ship careened over on a towel.
Challenging Cheeks:
The kit supplied cheeks are hair rail are not that great. The cheeks themselves come nowhere near to fitting the hull, and I'm pretty sure the hull form is correct. The only option was to scratch my own cheeks. Aside from the fit, they are also seem rather undersized.
The next consideration was the hair rail and lower cheek, and decided to go whole hog and redo these as well. Given that there needs to be two of everything, I cheated and sparingly glued with PVA glue some 3mm sheet together and then cut to shape. The pieces were then separated using rubbing alcohol, and voila, 2 matching parts with the work of 1! These parts are still very slighty oversized to allow them to be fine tuned once other parts are made - necessary given I don't have any true plans to work from and that these pieces form quite a complex shape.
Photos below show hair rail prior to separation. The difference in dimensions is quite evident to that appearing in AOTS which I used as a guide for the scratch piece.
As a side note, the quality of the walnut parts are just not good, the main/false rail would need a lot a work to get presentable so suspect these will also be remade at some point.
The cheeks themselves took a long time (days) to get right due to the angled concave curve and lack of plans. Pretty happy with the results, though the parts still need some fine tuning as the rails are a little thick still I think. I'm hoping to use a scraper to give a profile to the edges, and a quick test shows that this should work OK even for a quick test. This also commits me to what will probably be my first simple carvings on the scrolls, but that's for another day.
Side by side comparison of scratch vs kit supplied pieces..