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vossiewulf

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  1. Progress is not blazing, but I finished the jib boom sans rigging. Well, a Cheerful jib boom, per plans from Chuck. Used styrene and brass wire to model the iron band at the end of the boom with eyes for the guys and stays. And I drilled and carved a sheave into the end. I think I used too big a drill making the sheave wider than it should be, but it's close enough for a first effort. And the other end is a good fit for the bits and the cutout in the bow. Still waiting for some brass nails small enough to anchor the chainplates against the hull, and I'm probably going to order a new mill this week. Next up is the mainmast, following the Cheerful instructions.
  2. The Micro Mark one claims to be specifically for wood but it says it is simply a jeweler's drawplate. Which implies those for wire will work as well for wood. But I'm not certain on that, I have the Byrnes one.
  3. Yes they do but they're about two or three time as expensive as the Micro Mark version. On the up side you can be sure they'll work very well. But yes Otto Frei, Contenti, Rio Grande all have drawplates. Actually Contenti carries some in the same range as the Micro Mark.
  4. Micro Mark sells one. No idea how it compares with the Byrnes, but at $54 it better work reasonably well.
  5. Try professional jeweler's bits, they are of much higher quality than anything MicroMark sells, and unfortunately the price reflects that. That said, scroll down where there are Swiss Tungsten Vanadium sets for $49 and I saw a cobalt steel set for $59, https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/burs-drills?pf_t_types=types%3AAll+Drills It's always painful to buy something like a nice set of drills but you get drills that actually work and work for a veery long time, so the investment is worth it.
  6. Welcome Swimmer! Nice to see a Tsushima era build.
  7. Well set up my milling machine to drill some holes through the newly-tapered jib boom and nothing happened when I turned the speed pot. Nada. Fuses are ok and all connections look good, power is getting to the main board (the cooling fan comes on) but when I try to spin it up the amber light on the power box comes one and nothing happens with the mill spindle. Looks to me like the motor is dead somehow. It's 20 years old or so, I'm inclined to get a new high-torque (more capable) machine from Little Machine Shop. Either way, it's another roadblock. Grrrr.
  8. Byrnes saw should be good and parallel, I only get burning on mine if the stock wiggles against the fence or I don't maintain a steady feed speed. However an even better choice I think is the little jig created by the NRG for Byrnes saws that lets you cut strips on the outboard side of the blade. I don't know about you but I find it hard to not have the stock wiggle against the fence towards the end of the sheet, causing a mark on the desired piece. This jig avoids that problem.
  9. Also check to see if your blade is dead parallel to the rip fence. A dial indicator is handy for this.
  10. You shouldn't avoid CA, it is an excellent glue and in fact I have used CA for everything in my LN. I only use aliphatic resin glue when I have some part that needs lots of fiddling before clamping. As for finishes I prefer lacquers from luthier supply companies. The lacquers are very very clear and we're never spraying enough that high VOC lacquer spraying is a problem, I just use a mask when actively spraying.
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