themadchemist

The Admiral works in an OR so access to medical supplies is easy for me. I personally use a 10 mL control syringe with a 19 gauge needle that has the sharp end cut blunt. I cap it after use and it keeps well. The 19 gauge needle allows PVA flow and easy applications.

I'd talk with Matti, building the Vasa/Wasan. He has some mad skills when it comes to detailing with washes. I'm sure there a plenty of others also out there.

Beautifully tensioned and spaced crowsfeet and snaking. The effort really pays dividends. I also really like the contrast of the colored lines. Congratulations on the tools, you've earned them! Cheers, To new tools and good friends helping each other,

I like your theory on why the apprentice smacks sank, my question is why did they shroud them? Lots of beautiful work done lately, she's almost there. Your log has been a spectacular ride of information, Thanks for sharing so much detail and research. So what is next, you've mentioned a Pinky and a Pilot? Either will be fun to watch and learn. Hum, so the last mast hoops I made from 0.5mm cherry, but I like the black one's you've made from $'s. Something to think about as the paper would handle WAY easier then wood. Is there a reference to the process, you mention Remco, is it in his log and I missed it?

Hey guillemot, Chrome is a strange element. It is actually needed in the body and an essential micro-mineral. The Cr3+ is not a problem. You've probably seen it on old corroded chrome faucet fixtures. The Cr6+ although, in that oxidation state, was what was shown in the film Erin Brockovich and caused a 300 million payout settlement for ground water contamination by PG&E, due to the death and damage it caused. I've always found it interesting how inert substances can be highly active and deadly based on very small difference, as in the difference of 3 electrons between the 2 chromium ions mentioned... or for example how the air we breath is ~70% Nitrogen and Carbon is everywhere in living matter. Amino acids have both N and C, but when combined into CN- (cyanide) its deadly. Cobalt compounds are also interesting in how they are colored depending on hydration. Cobalt chloride makes a great water indicator. Blue is anhydrous (dry) and hydrated is red here the same compound in both states. I guess that's enough chemistry for today, sorry Jesse for hogging your log with chemistry details. Oh on an artistic note, the pigments are added to linseed oil typically to make oil paint but one can also use egg yoke to make egg tempera. Just one of the things I've experimented with for fun in the past. Setting paper on fire with water is a really cool trick also.

Wow David, what a tough medium to work with and at 1:250 it makes it even tougher. I didn't realize just how small she was until I saw your fingers in the picture. So are you going to have a small card stock Rhett Butler on deck? I liked the CA idea for stiffening the stock for cutting, good idea.

So does this mean you'll be working the Goth and 1/2 moon at the same time? Whichever it's fun just watch in. I definitely know what you mean though, now that I stepped out of the "only one build at a time" mindset I to feel the pull. Like highlander, can you feel the quickening, Although... THERE CAN BE MORE THEN ONE! :dancetl6: :dancetl6:

Of course the Scottish Maid never sail south into more temperate waters so the torpedo worm issue wouldn't be a problem, which is why she most likely wasn't coppered. I would think coppering was a VERY expensive undertaking and was done out of necessity only, but that's just my opinion based on a very small amount of study.

I agree guillemot, that would be discussing but I recall some one weathering a build on MSW and putting barnacles on the hull.

Just for reference, here is copper carbonate. https://www.google.com/search?q=copper+carbonate&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=z6VGU87jHdDw2gWu0IHICw&sqi=2&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1191&bih=710 Before the invention of organic pigments, minerals were used as pigments in paint. The benefit of doing this was the ease of reproducing color. Chromium forms many oxidation states with many colours. Cr3+ is ok, but Cr6+ is carcinogenic. Here wiki shows its many colors. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium

Copper oxidizes in stages. First brown like a penny which is a formation of copper oxide, over time the surface will react with the CO2 in the air and form a copper carbonate, think statue of liberty. Many don't realize she is copper. The copper carbonate is actually a protective coating. Under the salty sea I don't know how well the carbonate would form but from pictures I've seen the usually have that greenish cast. Personally though, since she most likely wasn't coppered and because the wood is so gorgeous, I'd leave it as is. But that my opinion. I wonder if anyone has ever attempted simulated toperdo worms. Drill holes, cook spaghetti and let it dry wiggly, then glue in the hull holes. ICK

I'm Amazed again. You reproduced them very nicely. Making one is tough, making 4 proportional is Outstanding craftsmanship. I also like your comment of 1/2 chucking the jewelers saw, I've had problems with blade flex no matter how tight I stretch it, but hadn't though of shortening the blade clamping and on really small stuff you really don't need that much kerf throw anyway. I've noticed that on thick stock, like fretting something from a 3/8" square ebony that the cut isn't vertical due to blade flex, this should solve that. Oh the little Jewels interspersed in build logs are like nuggets of gold.

You won't be disappointed Bob, I just luckily found both volumes on ebay in unused condition for $35 (that's a steal, plus free shipping). They've been on my want list since I found that Vol 1 is available on Google books, although only partially. If I recall correctly PopJack pointed me at the google books as well as Tidewater Triumph: The Development and Worldwide Success of the Chesapeake Bay Pilot Schooner by Geoffrey M. Footner. The quality of the full glossy pages of Cunliffe's set, I put up there with Frolich's, The Art of Ship Modeling sold by ANCRE. They are also full size like Frolich's work. Cunliffe was the chief editor and writer of several sections, but they are the work of many experts. The shear volume of contemporary paintings is worth the price, not to mention the text. Here's the link for google books vol 1 http://books.google.com/books?id=VNsGi3nmuaQC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false and the 2 at amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Pilots-Pilotage-Schooners-America-Britain/dp/0937822698 and http://www.amazon.com/Pilots-Pilotage-Schooners-European-Watermen/dp/0937822760/ref=pd_sim_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=13QMZCTWVCR6SWS555HE The Footner text http://www.amazon.com/Tidewater-Triumph-Development-Worldwide-Chesapeake/dp/0870335111/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1397065626&sr=8-5&keywords=pilot+schooners Of course one of the best additions of late to my library is Chapelles, The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935. Its worth its weight in gold for the alphabetized diagrams of rigging details. I found it on ebay for $8. http://www.amazon.com/The-American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397065626&sr=8-7&keywords=pilot+schooners All these have been one reason the DSotM came to a halt as I delved into researching the Fore and aft schooner rig. One should also not forget Petersson's 2 excellent volumes. His Rigging: Period Fore-and-Aft Craft I have in pdf and its on my wish list in hardcover. http://www.amazon.com/dp/1591147212/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=Z8PB5ZFM5FCH&coliid=I2S7O01XB8VDJL

It reminds me of the story of how NASA spent millions to develop a ball-point pen that would write in the zero gravity of space. The Soviet space program used a pencil.

Hey Jesse I see you broke down and purchased that VERY Expensive and high technology water-line marker Necessity is the mother of invention, NICE Idea.

Nice look. I didn't think I'd like the paint but the contrast with the wooden lower is quite striking. I think it looks perfect as is, but that just an opinion. The wood from a distance almost gives it a coppered look. She turning into a real beauty Jesse. Nice job. By the way, what type of finish did you use on the wood? It really made the wood glow, whatever you used.

Looking good CF. With the garboard issue you'll have to drop planks. It gets rather crowded up front. ..and as its 1st planking it doesn't matter anyway. Strangely I did the 1st planking with no dropped planks purposefully to see if I could. Then On my 2nd planking I dropped I plank, again purposefully, just for the experience. So go with what feels right and achieves the goals you have set. Just don't forget to have FUN, its the only mandatory rule I know what you mean about working with the wood given, My kit was the older version though and much of it had dried and none of the Mahogany matched color anymore. Plus I didn't like the Ply used in the bulwarks, it was very brittle and I think soaking would have delaminated it or worse. I see your making good use of rubber bands. When you get more in to the concave shape of the stern planking, I found balsa wedges and blocks placed under the bands helped hold the planking down very well. I hope you don't think me bossy, I'm just trying to help if possible. Since everything I know came from a MSW member willing to help, I feel it's a way of paying back what was passed to me. I fixed my Swift log yesterday as it had over 200 pictures lost in the server crash, so it's all there now. I have enjoyed my Swift bashing and love watching all the differing ways its building can be approached. Keep On Planking

Nice job Matti. So on the Wasan, the capstan went down with the ship, huh...hum...um

Excellent! ...but then I expected nothing less then spectacular. Its so magnificent I'm seeing stars

Personally I found outer 2nd planking placement worked well after the keel, stem and stern posts were fitted and placed. I felt I got a nicer bearding line between the keel/stem and hull that way, as fitting the stem post can be a bit of a chore and its much easier to work with the 1st planking on that issue. If I remember correctly I placed stanchions and caprails next, then fit the keel, then 2nd planked. You'll find that stations and cap rails really make the bulwarks a lot more solid.

She's filling out beautifully, Isn't it amazing how quickly they change appearance at this stage? The wale trim really looks good and gives the wale an added detail that really enhances her looks. The mast step and rings are also some nice added detail.

Nice work! Just remember, you can tell the experience of a builder by the size of their scrap bin. There's no lesson learned quite like repeating the same task and no lesson learned quite like the tasks that fail. We learn so much more from failure then success sometimes. 1:96, Wow, you do like a challenge

I went back to page one and relooked at http://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing:%20ny1621&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co%20=hh&st=gallery&sg%20=%20true It's kind of blurry if expanded but I see what your talking about. So here's some rookie questions. I've noticed that of most of the pilot boats with only a foresail and no jib that the foremast is set much farther forward. On the Schooners the mast seems to be set farther back which moves the connection point of the foresail at about the stem line (instead of the bow-end) and the end of the bow the attachment for the jig...flying jig. Was this a developmental stage of the pilot boats evolution into schooners, aside from the hulls reshaping? On the solder job, its amazing. I guess the fold gives it that bulkier look which looks more proportional. I think I'll borrow that mention as I'll soon be starting the DSotM again and starting the rigging of her, since the longboat project is about finished. Again looking at the Lettie pg 1 I see what appears to be the 2 connection points. So it that a cross design between separate shrouds and bobstay like below. from Petersson's text

Nicely done, I'm assuming you ate your spinach before tackling that job. Now I can't wait to see that stern finished, Isn't it fun seeing them transform before your eyes like that, and knowing YOU did it. Excellent detailing my fat fore-armed friend. I would gladly pay you Tuesday for a half moon today......

Looking good. I noticed a couple of places where there are intents in your planking, most probably from drying while clamped. A small trick I learned kinda by accident is that if your dap those creases/dents with a wet brush and keep wetting them, the wood will expand back most of the way back out and leave less to fill or sand out later. Your right on the filler, I'd check out Jesse's Scottish Maid build if you haven't. Rather then filler he used planks, then sanded them back to fill larger places. That garboard end curvature would be a great place to do that. Jesse straighten out a rather large asymmetry with that method and it worked beautifully. One of the nice things about that method is the wood has the same sanding hardness. I've found many fillers harden much harder then the surrounding wood and can cause sanding unevenness. Just a thought. Looks like you have a very nice run on your sheer plank. Have you considered replacing the kits ply bulwarks with solid sheet? 3" x 24" in all thicknesses can be typically picked up for under $3 and they bend much better. Capt' Harv recommended it to me and I'm glad I switched. Now that my long boats done, I should be starting back on the DSotM Swift bash. I'll be modifying the rig considerably. I love watching others interpretation on this kit. There are some really great Swift builds on MSW. I agree the wood is subpar, that is why I replaced most of it. I do think she's a great kit for learning though. Keep on Planking!