themadchemist

Hey John As always, the disclaimer that my Swift was an older kit, but from what I've seen I would handle them the same in this aspect. The keel, to my understanding, which just means "I worked for me", is all basically faked. There is no rabbet for the planks to sit and the fitting of the keel and more importantly the stem was a concern for me. So here's an attempt to explain what I did with words, which is not so easy. The Garboard plank should end some where between bulkheads 2 and 3 or you will create really bad crowding up front. The center bulkhead was sanded/filed to a point starting at the top of the stem and down to just after bulkhead 5. This was then tapered a complete 90o at the stern. This allows for the 90o twist that the garboard will make as it lays down the side of the center. Here's a picture of my build just after the garboards are placed and you can see their twist and how the center bulkhead becomes exposed between just behind bulkhead 5 and just passed 6 fully exposed. This caused 2 issues when laying the keel and stem Once the planking was finished. I taped a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to a flat surface and sanded the peak made by the garboard and other planks as they progressed up the stem, until I had a flat surface the width of the keel. If you look close you can see the pencil line on either side of the center where I have marked the planking for scraping down to match the false keel width. Expect to narrow the stern a lot. I found this method worked great for giving a good stem/keel contact patch and I highly recommend attaching the keel and stem before 2nd planking. By doing it this way you can use a #10 blade and scratch a pseudo-rabbet between the 1st planking and the false keel and make a really tight bearding line where the 2nd planking meets the keel. I hope this helped and didn't just add to your confusion. Before fairing to much though It'd get the top deck glued down as that will lock your bulkheads in place and make sanding them easier. I glad you found this hobby also, and decided to build a Swift. Like you I've found this hobby has increase the overall enjoyment of my life considerably. Keep up the good work John. As you get to planking try to approach each plank as a project unto itself and you will be surprised at the results that can be achieved.

That's a problem I completely avoided by changing all the wood in my build. I've heard others talk about some kits being more generous with the wood and other giving barely enough. If worst came to worst I still have the wood from my kit, although it would probably never match due to the age difference. The dark wood looks good against the light bulwarks.

Your tape puzzle is very much like a derivative in math. The tape shows the tangent curvature of the hull at 6 distinct points, assuming the tapes center is that point. Thinner and thinner tape would push this to infinity as in calculus. What a very unique method of making a mathematical aspect of hull shape and form mathematically visual. Its like looking at a graph of a three dimensional function describing the hulls form. Cool exercise, Once again things like this are why reading Dee Dee's logs are just so dang interesting and informative.

Nice job John. Its seems the most fun part of the dinghy build is making the stuff to outfit it. I think you passed the "are you having fun" test

I know the Walnut is more brittle then cherry, but I found with a bit of water and a sealing iron you can force it to whatever shape you want. Its a super handy tool for around $20 that's great for wood bending. Of course I haven't used it on Walnut, but Randy (lamarvalley) single planked his San Francisco with mahogany with great success using one and it is a brittle wood.

I've see the big lego's used for squaring also, but with no children I had to use angle. Its fun to see just what gets used as tools in a build as I've seen some ingenious uses on MWS for some unusual items. Figuring things out can be half the fun of building.

The left is the limewood/basswood for 1st planking. The middle in mine kit was ramin and walnut, the ramin is the yellow and is for deck, inner and outer bulwarks, I strayed from that and striped the deck in ramin and cherry and did a double strip on the outer hull that wrapped the counter under the transom. The walnut is for outer hull second planking. For this I switched to cherry. The wood to the right is everything else. I switched to cherry for outer hull planking as it appealed to me better. I also didn't like that the mahogany had changed color, as my kit was fairly old and so I cut cherry keel, stem and stern posts. That was again for look, but there was a second motive of learning to make pieces as I won't always be doing kits. Even though the kit first planking wasn't very even I used it and felt I got very good results. Some builders plank fast and use filler, but I prefer doing it slow and skipping the filler. When I started I had 2 goals, no filler and no dropped planks. I achieved both but I planked pretty slowly. The way I see it is the outer planking can only look as good as what its covering, Plus I wanted to prove I could make the first planking good enough for it to be a single plank as the San Francisco I plan will be single planked and I needed to learn to get it right first time. Lastly you mention newbies. I'm one too. other then the canoe, the swift is my 1st build. I've only been building for around 1 1./2 years. Also last winter I took a break to study the gaff rig closer and build a dinghy and longboat to keep sawdust stirred. My Swift DSotM has taken a lot more time then expected, but I'm having fun so that what matters. I have a couple more books coming on the gaff rig and plan getting going again soon. The one piece of advise I'd give at this point. Make sure your garboard plank (the one next to the keel) doesn't extend to far forward, otherwise you'll crowd the stem and need to drop planks. That and balsa filler block in the bow and stern will give a larger glue surface and make life easier. I also put a small block between bulkheads 2 and 3 for the garboard the end on. Trying to extend it to bulkhead one crowds the front and without the balsa for support its gluing is impossible. There are pics in my log. Russ was the one that I credit with my planking skills. He spent a lot of time helping me and answering questions. So don't worry about asking questions, I own it back to the community to pay it forward. Plus talking build is fun for me.

good luck with the move, its always a difficult task no matter the circumstance.

Good job with the signature John. In the same place you can hypelink the Dinghy and Swift so others can click on them in your sig and be taken to your build. Its a handy way to let people find your builds. Basically open a second window and copy the URL address from above and put it into the hype-link of the first page. I wouldn't worry about number of pictures, I tend to probably over do pictures, but I like lots of pics of the clamping up for my own future reference. You'll find clamping to be one of the most interesting tasks of building and never underestimate the power of a well placed rubber band. If you eat you veggies, I recommend saving those chunky bands they put on asparagus and broccoli, they are great for holding.

Welcome John to the Swift builders. I have the older kit which doesn't have the lower decks, so I can noit be 100% sure, but seeing that I haven't touched my instructions in...um.... hum I may have pitched them I'd say glue the bulkheads first, then the decks. I glued bulkhead one at a time using 4 aluminum angles to secure them square during drying. The lower decks will be easy as they (I think) lay flat and should be easy to set. The main deck though you can put away the level as it has a wonderful compound camber. The deck camber and sheer line of the Swift makes it one of my favorites, she has some great lines. I know my build log is long and windy, but if there's anything you have questions on I'd be absolutely willing to help, but one look at my Swift and you'll see I've deviated far off the beaten path, but structurally she basically the same... kind of. I look forward to you build, IMHO the Swift kit is a great starter for learning on and there are so many places to add to the kit if your so inclined. Keep it fun though, as that's the only rule.

I built this one last December and had a blast building it. Looks like things are coming along nicely John. Nice job. I agree, there is something to learn from every build. All experience is useful.

Is there anybody out there?... Just nod if you can hear me... Is there anyone at home?...

Nice pic's Randy. She turned out beautifully. The SF is a rather complex build for a 1st try but you built her like a professional, which shows the natural ability of the builder. Thanks for sharing your Florencia with us all. Plus the many lessons along the way, like the cannon spoked wheels and sealing iron for wood shaping. Your build log has been a source of enjoyment and learning for me. Thanks for your positive verve you bring to MSW. Seeing her finished makes me want to restart the DSotM. Although I have a couple more books on the Gaff rig I'm waiting to arrive before tying into the rigging (pun intended)

I bet there was never a whale boat with a French polish but yet Buck is an awesome builder which goes to show what happens when a luthier turns boat builder. It's all about what drives your personal Verve. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/839-cw-morgan-whaleboat-by-salty-sea-dog-al-scale-125-wood-pof-first-wooden-boat-build-small/page-1?hl=whaler

Like David, I find humour in the diversity that this hobby reflects and the great debates it stimulates. I also agree with fun being the most important factor. I guess if high gloss need not apply, I'm guessing a Pink Floyd themed pilot boat build would give some a stroke. But seriously whether purist or just winging it, if your not doing it because its fun and for yourself, then its a chore. Everyone has differing motivations and each draws from this hobby something different, the beauty is in the sharing of ideas even though there are so many differences in motivation. In a word - Community. Leroy, you have the perfect attitude for being a successful builder, even if the only show your Admirals namesake ever see's is a mantle or table top in your home. We must NEVER forget, an individuals feeling of success can only be defined by that person making their visions into reality. Keep on winging it Leroy and you will fly higher then you ever thought possible.

The bright side, there's nothing like that feeling of a package in the mailbox, and I'm sure you've already had your way with the 22 plates and left fingerprint all over them Your correct both are soft bound, but the French version is larger and better print quality, than the translation version. All this ANCRE talk has me wanting to pull mine off the shelf and do some more dreaming. We hauled scrap metals today and made $165 (tool fund ). That makes the garage one step closer to becoming a sawdust factory. I'll need the space for that 1.26 metre Le ReQuin. I see Barba's back to working on his over at SOS. YEAH! See what you've started Mark, by forcing me to make a purchase from ANCRE Actually 2 with the Frolich I like the way they have listed what each plate covers in the Belle-Poule description (copper and belaying are nice), it kind of lets you now before it arrives. The LE ReQuin is a bit vague. Its also interesting because they're both works of Boudriot and Berti (is it common practice that one all CAPS the last name in French, I've noticed its that way typically). Well, happy waiting, guess that means back to sawdust production activities.

YIKES, When it rains it pours. Looks like someone didn't have insurance and ran, the world these days, sheesh. Best wishes to your daughter and a speedy recovery and may the demons of lyme leave you be for a spell.

Interesting, Le ReQuin also has the curved decking, I guess that was a French method of decking. It is intimidating, but still yet one of the reasons I chose the ANCRE monography. To me the shaped decking is so much more elegant and flowing. it also, to me, makes a statement about the craftsman that did that amazing jointery. The Le ReQuin's monography was in French, but came with a soft cover english translation. Was the Belle-Poule not the same? If so they would only need to send that and save you the returns.

Remember when Ripley had a "believe it or not" series - I loved those as a kid..... but gosh it seems anyone we can do nearly anything anymore and nothing is impossible. Tech is changing so fast, heck there is nothing left not to believe.... Personally though I want a 3D printer to print me my Jetson's flying space-mobile. That would free up time for carving figureheads and eliminate traffic. Heck if it flew its self I could carve while traveling and save even more time for making sawdust and shavings. Print my space-mobile with a ship building work station please. I do have mixed emotions, the tech kind of kills old school craftsmanship, but then who wants an ice man delivering for your ice box when refrigeration is so much better. I've come to the conclusion that maybe I am just getting to old, I'm starting to sound like my grand-dad " WHAT, PAY FOR WATER, why heck it falls from the sky." Luckily he didn't live to see the bottled water era.

Thanks for the heads up Ben, I was sitting in my wheel chair at Wal-mart the other day waiting as the Admiral went to the ladies room and she parked me in front of the printer section. They had straight inkjet color printers (no scanner, fax...) for just $39. That made me think of my first Canon inkjet back in 1995 that sold for $426. Gulp. image, in 20 years we will be able to completely print a model kit... ICK, some how I'm not liking that, but I can definitely see an under $500 3D printer having as much value as say a Byrne's or a mill (similar priced equipment) and that's closer then 2 decades away. I've seen where there are 3D printers that do color also, so imagine printing grained pre-spiled planking and you just pick the wood and graining. Wow, that kind of boggles the mind to think about. Augie, your friends 3D aero-plane would be interesting to see. I agree this tech will revolutionize many things. I saw something, where they were using similar tech to print skin for grafting of burn victims and hope one day to possibly print organs using the patients own cloned heart/liver/... tissue to prevent rejection issues. Its one amazing world we live it.

I love those brass bar clamps, but haven't broken down and added them to the collection. They look like they might be easy to build though. Hum (tmc scratches chin). Isn't it amazing how better clamping can make a impossible job doable and a difficult job much easier. I've found in this hobby of curved surfaces, clamping is an acquired skill that you learn from as you experience new clamping tasks. Tool wise I have more variety of clamping devices then any other type of tool. Knowing the size of those clamps, they look enormous on that itsy-bitsy scale build. The popsicle stick really show just how small she is though. After my munckin longboat build, I learned that decreasing the scale, really increases the difficulty of the build. There's nothing like a good sanding though to settle the nerves and relax as you get in the zone.

Wow, how life tends to get in the way. Glad to see things settled and you now have a dedicated space. I found your Swift log inspiring when I first started mine, although my build has went in a very different direction. I love watching the Pilot boats built and can't wait to see you at it again.

Thanks for the extra pictures Cap'n'Bob. I agree with Russ, the throat halyard is a fine piece of work. Looking at it mechanically it also appears an efficient rig as it has two halyards for drawing the gaff up into position.

Oh just for reference, What size throat and peak blocks did you use? Thanks

Great mock up on the Main rigging, Cap'n'Bob. I love the detail on your rig. The metal work and blocks on the peak and throat halyards are beautifully detailed and I especially love that you included the jaw clapper, which appears to be coated. (In tmc's most appreciative voice) I personally could use more pictures as you captured a lot of what I wanted to do to the DSotM's rigging. For example what did you use for parrels. Close ups of the boom, gaff and mast ends would be very much appreciated. Plus a picture of the Parrel attachment to the gaff and a top view of the throat halyard attachment to the upper gaff jaws. Sorry not trying to be bossy or demanding, just wanting more of a good thing, so I can learn. You've become a great mentor to me and I'm sure many others, that appreciate your work and fine attention to detail. Oh a close up of the boom jaws also would be great. Anyway, excellent work as always. I think maybe I've been stalling on building so I could borrow (steal) all your great rigging ideas. The double/sister block throat halyard is remarkable. Chapelles fishing Schooner book is such a great source, its rigging diagrams are what caused me to slow way down and think details. Seeing your work become reality, really has me wanting to build again. Thank Cap'n'Bob for sharing.