themadchemist

As usual, nice detailing. Is the weathering done in water-based paint, if so you may be able to soften it with a Q-Tip to give it a more randomized smudgy look. I agree though that once the Lobster pots are piled aboard that will help with the over all effect. BTW the way, is that the AmericA in the background, WOW she's small next to the Lobster Twin. Thanks for the idea of looking at the mini-scale train stuff for pieces and parts, the window trim and that galvanized sheeting really make a difference, as will a bit of seaweed in the pots. Did you rememeber the scuff marks in the floor decking from standing in front of the table and sorting? With all this detailing your gonna need to build a jet ski for the pleasure twin to prevent her jealousy (I assume your boats talk to you, as mine do). ...you dont have to be mad to build wooden ships, but it sure does help....

One other thing, On the mast hoops, How did you make them from wood? If I recall correctly the Swift I'm building uses brass rings but they would have probably been wood? Any details on the wooden mast hoop construction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again,

Hello David Love your jigs. The mast jig for working the underneath is a great Idea and I like the toe rail jig for cutting your scuppers. Both Ideas I'll catalog for future use. Thanks for putting this log up.

Thank you, but awesome requires finishing. Which I will do, I'm just slow, I guess that's part of being an analytical chemist. I typically spend more time thinking about how, then in the actual process of doing. But for me that a big part of the fun. I love the problem solving that ship building forces us to tackle. I know what your saying though, as I started planking I feared all the typical newbie worrries, but now I find it relaxing. My back finally let up last night and I got one plank glued and 2 more formed. Those 2 I left to dry clampped down so today I hope to make up for lost time.

This is something I've noticed in the older kit also. The keel doesnt have the rabbet cut into the swift but rather requires a tapering of the bulkhead keel. Even with this tapering the keel plus planking widens the mounting area of the false keel. At the moment, in the stern I'll have to sand probably 1/8" to narrow the mount surface. And towards the bow the keel is V shaped and will require sanding to flatten to the required width. As Russ stated, Ive concluded that mounting the false keel prior to second planking is the only way around this problem. I also have concern about the bow keel curvature fitting the planked curve tightly (without gaps). I'm figuring on a large amount of sanding on the second planking to make the keel fit correctly. I dont know what the AL instructions say as I've quit reading them. Oh BTW verbal, I like the block your using to clamp planks. With the Swift compound curvature on the deck I've found clamping planks to be a bear. I did not want to use CA glue but havent been able to find another way to clamp planks flush. Thanks for the idea!

Hello Philo. Sounds like a poormans lathe. I've seen barrels turn on a demel that have turned out very nicely. Its great using your imagination to figure out solutions to all the demands of a wooden kit. For me it makes the building frustrating, but more fun, as I love solving a good problem. I recently saw Ron (rlb) on his US Brig Oneida turn a square stock piece of cherry into a 5mm dowel which he then used to make deadeyes with a homemade jig for drilling the deadeye holes. The jig he used was a modificaton of one Russ used on his cross-section. The page with Rons deadeye construction: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/91-us-brig-oneida-by-rlb-the-lumberyard-pof-148-scale-1809-lake-ontario-warship/page-11 Russ's crossection - a great way to learn lots of technique http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1091-cross-section-model-by-russ-148-scale/ Just goes to show what we all can do with just the most basic of toys/tools. Of course it takes longer.... Great job!

Thanks for the link Commander Garward, Sir. I love looking at designs of any type of equipment. When I was a boy I use to pick out toys that I could disassemble rather then play with. It frustrated my Dear Mother to no end. Why do you tear everything up, she would exclaim, and I'd reply ...but I am playing by seeing how it works. This was one of the things that lead me to analytical chemistry, the large variety of instruments. In grad school I fixed every instrument that broke in the department, so I could learn from the equipment rather then a textbook. I'm a very visual learner, (that why I appreciated your photos). I see these connectors come in multiple variations of splines (if thats what you call them). Yours is 4 spline, 2 on each side which form a cross for the elastomer insert. Seeing the various differing designs has my brain gears working. Here in the US, I'm use to seeing belt driven mechanisms, and Ive always thought that there must be a more efficient rotational transfer system out there. Belt transfer loses so much energy in converting rotational motion to linear and then back to rotational motion, it also requires more space and belt tension forces shaft alignment problems which lead to bearing wear. I'm very intriged by this new (to me) concept and I find it really interesting that you have incorporated this fitting in your saw. The Byrnes (which many claim is the best) is belt driven, or I assume so as they sell a replacement belt. So do you have access to all the machining equipment to build her yourself. I've only had one opportunity to play on a metal lathe and turning threads is such a fun process. I have for years wanted a metal lathe just for building tools. Your a lucking and talented man, Sir. Thank You for sharing your time and expertise!

So it acts as a shock absorber, Thats what I thought. So is that what makes the saw quieter, also? I would think it would help reduce mechanical shock to the electric motor as the torque from the saw blade engages in wood. It is a very interesting setup and appears to be a more efficient way to transfer motion then by belt.

I was just relooking over your masterpiece jigsaw and it is apparent that your skills for detail are not just applied to your ships alone. The true mark of a craftsman is his/her tools and in my opinion even more importantly the tools made by that craftsman. I have recently been researching what is available commercially in the saw line and can find no equal to your creation. (the Byrnes appears to be a nice saw but they show so few pictures on their site). As I'm starting out in this hobby I'm looking into a ryoba japanese hand saws as a first step. One day perhaps I may develop my skills to the point of making something as magnificent as your jig saw. I find some of the tools and jigs that MSW members create and their illustrating of the construction almost as facinating as the ship logs. Jobs I have thought impossible have been simpified by some members willingness to share information on methods and equipment perfect for the task. On your saw, I love the interchangagable table slots for use with different thickness and sizes of blades and also the large table size. I believe you stated 380х330х5 mm, but it appears much larger then that. I also like the design of the fence and placement of the sloted fence to the out side where it is off the tables surface. The stationary fence and its long theaded adjustment screw is also a fine piece of machining work. I especially find the connection between the electric motor and the bearing/saw assembly interesting. You stated air plasticine was used, which I'm unfamiliar with, does it set up as a hard rubbery piece? I see nothing holding it in besides the set screws on the collars of the two metal compressors. It reminds me of a neoprene bushings used in the suspensions of automobiles. So does this help buffer the blades engagement into the wood and is this what helps lower the sound levels of the saw? I always love looking at the inside of any type of equipment. Up until now that has been primarily chemistry analytical instruments and automotive. Thank you Sir for posting a large variety of photos and the diagrams, your efforts are appreciated.

..and then there were Masts! Nice work, all that small detail is what I am not looking forward too (if I can get passed planking. Nice improv on the cabin door hinges. She's looking almost ready to furl sails and tack off into the breeze.

I have found the drawings way more beneficial then the 4 1/3 pages of written instructions. I agree, if approached as a learning tool, the Swift is a great learning project. Personally, I've been contemplating painting one of the deck house roofs with the prism and changing the name from Swift to "the Dock side of the Moon"

Sarah Nice little deadeye stringing jig. Those are some munchkin sized deadeyes. I agree also on having furled sails so as best to show of the deck details and rigging better. I use to be a unfurled sail guy but more and more as I see the hours of work in rigging, I'm leaning more to the show off the details idea.

Hey you, Cap't Rat fink sir. Thank You for putting this one back up. THE SPICE MUST FLOW! I'm one of the ones wanting this build back. Your build made me buy this kit (and the Dinghy). I love the way you've substitued woods and shown just how much a bit of wood can really make a kit POP. On another subject, the Dinghy diorama. What did you use to make the water? I've been toying with the idea of making the Peterboro a camping diorama and I love the water/bank interface in your Dinghy diorama... not to mention all the other details.

Thanks for the offer jarero, its much appreciated, but actually the pictures you post to your log happen to blow AL's instructions out of the water (be they written or pictures) Plus, instructions dont answer questions, like builders do. Let me put this mathematically: MSW >> any AL instructions Thanks for all your help. Oh BTW, I love that finish on the deck houses. Its amazing how it makes the wood POP! What did you use? I just ordered some of the cherry veener planks and veneer assortment from Lee Valley. I saw the cherry recommended by a San Francisco II builder. Let the kit bashing begin. Cherry Venneer 225 pieces for 23.95 http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,250,43217&p=40840 Domestic & Exotic Veneer Assortments http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,250,43217&p=58781 plus here's a handy looking tool I couldnt pass up. looks like it might be good for making rigging eyes. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41659&p=64791 They also have free shipping until the 25th this month.

Here is also a polish ferry free for DL from Digital Navy, for anyone interested. http://www.digitalnavy.com/LillaWeneda/index.html

Hello Sarah Glad to see some CARD models being put back up. I remember the old MSW had a CARD riverboat that was a free download from Disney, which some builder had built. I was amazed at how real a cardstock model could be. Cant wait to see this one finished. Here's that riverboat link: http://www.disneyexperience.com/models/marktwain_model.php

Hello Philo, Good to see more progress. Keep up the good work, mate. I was just looking at the stern and bow walls of the deck houses and in the older kit they are curved. Seems there are lots of differences between the old and new versions. 1) the old kit has almost no lower decks 2) the old kit has almost no instructions (I saw a the color photo instructions in jarero's build where he's gluing the deck houses. 3) The old kit doesnt have scuppers pre-cut in the bulwarks 4) It appears that some of the same wood isnt used for the same parts in the 2 kits. Things I've found that are the same 1) its a very interesting beginners build and fun to build and watch being built. Its good to see the several swift builds being put up here. I havent been able to build the last few days due to my disablity and it nice to be able to watch others progress. I hate when this condition takes me out of the game, BUGGER! The curved deckhouse roofs also make sense as the deck is compound curved to the mid-ship and out to the scuppers. I would expect as much to help move water off the decks. Water leaving the roofs would be pulled towards the scuppers and past the doorways. But then thats just my common sense talking I dont know for sure.

Wow,lots more pictures of progress added. I like the way the deckhouse ended up that beautiful wood. More nice work. Interesting, I also see under the glue-up of the deck house colour photo instructions, WOW, that would of been nice with the older kit. I guess thats Another upgrade to the AL Swift.

Garward Wonderfully made piece of equipment. There's just something about making it yourselve. In my chemistry research I had the chance to disasemble for repair and maintainance many wonderful toys, but the one I'll always remember is the instrument I built and did the bulk of my research work on. Bet it works like a dream, looks like the rip fence can be installed on either side of for left or right cutting. Beautiful piece of equipment, Keith

Hello Garward She has a nice view sitting up there on the table facing the window, like she's longing for sea. Beautiful picture in #465 I think it was. With the mast up (Very nice work as always) I can't wait to see her with shrouds up and hitched. As adding the mast makes the ship grow, addding the shrouds fill them out. One day I aspire to learn and have your talent for detail. On the back scroll work on the transom, is that paint or gold leafed? Which ever it shines like gold. I love the Stern of the Montanes.and your windows are just amazing, the detail is so real. Looking forward for more, thanks my friend.

Is it just me or does Popeye seem to have more hours in his day then the rest of us? Popeye you never cease to amaze, With the detail and how much you get done. Nice detail work. So do you bait those with spinach? Keith

wouldnt that be called a smorgasboat? Keith

Hello Robbyn Glad to see you back at it, You had many worried (even lurkers like me). Working with sharp objects can be just a cut, but your incident shows just how big a small jab can be. So glad your back to planking. The San Fancisco (there I misspelled it to make you not feel so bad, but then I can spell anyway) is what I one day want to build but am practicing on smaller stuff first. I absolutely love the color of the cherry, how do you plan on staining/finishing. I've always had the SFII pictured as a dark wood vessel but I really like that lighter cherry. Glad to see your up and running again. Shine On -/\= Keith

Hey Ron, More excellent work. As you were stating you needed to make deadeyes and didnt have a lathe I instantly thought of Russ crossection jig, then you beat me too it. I like the way you modified it to sit on the dowel with the metal ring. Turning down that cherry to 5mm must of been relaxing, stuff like that I find like meditation. The cherry looks good also and its hard enough that it should hold up without getting dings like a softer basswood might. Keith

Looks good to me. I looked at jarero's and they are shaped a bit different but size wise there about the same. Looks like you got a good drill angle on it also, although yours has a taller tiller staff then what jareros Swift show's, but again his is the newer kit. keith