themadchemist
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Robbyn, is there enough 5mm apple to glue 2 piece together and make a 10mm wide strip? Ive had to widen my last starboard plank in this way by only about 1 mm. If its in short supply, split the apple into 2.5mm planks and it goes twice as far. Just an Idea?
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Thank You Gil for the added information. Your indeed lucky to have experienced such an adventure. I dont know about anyone else, and I don't mean to pry (if so, tell me so) but I would love to hear more tales about the adventure. For the land locked people like myself, my imagination can not even start to conceive what it was like or involved. I grew up a navy brat and can remember going on board ship with dad, but we moved from the coast when I was in the 5th grade. I've always missed it. I can only imagine that it changed the way you view the world, something so fantastic had to be life changing.
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Dont forget the bottle of champagne fo the launch.
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Oh BTW, every time I go back to page one, your crew is standing aronnd in the same positions. Just standin' around like that ain't gonna get no frames layed in her keel. You need to crack the whip or light a fire under 'em...
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Hey Wayne, time to update the sig looks like... Nice little POF kit, so are you building her complete or like the picture on the box where she's being refit? I recently purchased a midwests Muscongus Lobster Smack kit, which appears to be a smaller version of the Emma. Its baby sister, HA! Hey that one on the shelf? MS English Pinnace - I love that boat. and expo has it at a really good price. 80 with free paint, the email says Offer expires Monday, April 1st; cannot be combined with any other offer. Wonder if that means you can still order it on monday for that special. I love the removable bulkhead which become frames. and that red paint and fraise with the pale wood. BTW does MSW have a chapter of kit buyers annon? Tammys just started knitting recently, so I know what you mean. Who knew there could be so many kinds of needles, sheesh its worst the ship building almost
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Considering that same force (wind) moved the real ships all the way around the world, it really is kind of common sense that warm air would give them the correct effect, while drying also. Funny how sometimes the obvious is the last thing thought of, at least by me. I was thinking of letting if dry draped over a bowl but figured that would be to symmetrical. I knew there had to be a trick I was missing. I remember one builder, of which I can not remember their name from the old MSW 1, They had furled sails wet, which gave them a great effect of reality.
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Hey Bummer, It goes a bit deeper then just your average floyd-nut. I actually have a Ph.D (piled higher and deeper) in Floydology. Their are many of us though. Thanks Sarah for the fix, your almost to the fun part, wait it was all fun part My shellac and pumice arrived friday so some time next week I hope to start to french polish, hopefully I can get results like Buck and that schmoo shaped scraper worked wonders on the starboard side of the Swift. Way better then sanding and its shape fits most every concave contour of the hull. Five more planks to go on the larboard side and one soaking for forming ATM. I really need to get some pictures up in my log also....
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Since its being talked about I will mention this. Using CA to glue windows (I assume its a thin poly film of some kind) has one thing to watch out for. In forensics CA is used to set fingerprints, the CA is attracted to the oil from the fingerprint and makes that permanent. For example if a car were the crime scene, a soda bottle cap filled with CA placed in the car will make every fingerprint in the auto visible. So make sure the film is clean of prints and place it with a tweezer. Just a little analytical forensic FYI, Before heading the direction of pharma seperations I was planning on forensics. After finding out the FBI doesnt hire over 30 year olds, I switched directions, then I did again and taught.HS chem.
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Interesting, very interesting. But isn't it a bit big for your models That design looks like it would last forever, at least compared to a rope stropped block, its also very pleasing to the eye, like modern art. Thanks for sharing.
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Hello Scull3y I love those midwest kits, and the fact that their website lets you DL the instructions from the website before purchase. To be honest the instructions on the peterboro is what sold me. I've since purchased 2 more midwest kits. There are smaller projects that just scream bash me. The Muscongus Lobster smack I have plans to change several things and add lots of extra wood for flair. Look forward to seeing you bring this one to life.
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One of the places I've learned most about wood and it character is watching the woodwright shop which PBS has online for viewing. Sadly its just got the 2006 season to present rather then all 27 or 28 seasons. I recently spend a week or two and rewatched them all, great show. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3200/index.html
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Ha the one nice thing about breaking a mast or bowsprit on this kit is you can easily replace it with a LONG toothpick. Sorry to hear of your misfortune, but it seems a kit isn't complete until something breaks, in my case that's several things break.
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Thanks you for the details Garward. Its hard to believe just the wind for the hair dryer formed such beautiful effects. I guess it shapes and sets the glue at the same time. The ripples in the 2 front foresails look like they are rippling in the wind as it slices the wind. Just amazing. The tea stains are also the perfect finishing touch.
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To better illustrate what I'm talking about for those like myself still learning, here is a picture with diagrams. To my understanding rift sawn is most stable as cutting radially produces the best integrity within the grain structure of the wood. I find the 2 methods of quarter sawing illustrated interesting as one takes 1 center slice verse 2. To my understanding rift sawn lumber is rarely produced due to its large amount of waste. the link to this pic http://www.northendhardwoods.com/2010/09/quarter-sawn-vs-plain-sawn-vs-rift-sawn-lumber/
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Hello 42rocker Thanks for the info. I think your drawing is fine. Thanks for the links also. I see you quartered the log and assume from there it was quarter sawn. I've been studying the importance of plain/quarter/rift sawn lumber and how this effects the overall stability of the wood. Here and interestimng link which has an interesting picture of diagrams showing the difference. This also shows 2 variations on quarter sawn, with 1 center slab vs 2 which is interesting. To my understanding a radial cut is always preferable. http://www.northendhardwoods.com/2010/09/quarter-sawn-vs-plain-sawn-vs-rift-sawn-lumber/
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Lots of great tips on saws and their usage, I've decided that I MUST have Byrnes equipment, as I have yet to hear one bad word about the equipment or service and for me the service is as important as the product they sell. I dont see any mention of type of sawn lumber. By type I dont mean variation of wood but rather flat plane sawn vs quarter sawn vs rift sawn stock to begin the process of plank sawing. I assume rift sawn to be preferable but would enjoy any discussion from the masters. Thanks from an apprentice trying to learn the ART of wood from the Masters.
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Cant wait to see how it finishes...and if the tung oil doesnt give the desired effect on the strakes I guess you could ebony it afterward. I'm unfamiliar with applewood also but the strakes appear more grey/green than walnut, although walnut has such colour variation anyway, depending on if its sapwood or heart wood. Of course pictures dont always give a true scale of color and if flash is used it can make an ocre look canary yellow. So you dont remember the DSotM concert, is that from age or being in interstellar overdrive during the show either way your a lucky individual to have experienced so many great concerts. Tull would have been another I'd of like to seen, but then I'm a huge Ian Anderson fan.
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Hello Garward, Its a shame the build log of this ship was lost, she's beautiful. The main comment and most outstanding part of this ship is the Sails. When I first became intrigued by model ship building I thought, why would anyone build a tall ship and leave the sails off. As I've grown in knowledge I find that sometime the sails are left off or are furled so that the rigging can be better show. I also believe that many do not hang sail because so often they look dead. I am amaxed at the LIFE in your sails. They look as though your Corsair is in wind. You have done a beautiful job in forming the sails so that they look very Realistic. The billows and ripples in the foresails is especially pleasing to the eyes. You mentioned glue and a hair dryer for sail shaping. did you also stain/colour them with something also? They have a perfect tone to there color as if they have seen real sea time. Any information additional information on how you achieved the beautiful shaped sails would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Captain Garward, Sir, for showing us another inspiring build.
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Yes is it ashame paint will cover that beautiful wood. Looks like its a mix of heart wood and sap wood with those colour variations, if its walnut. I know historically many of the ships were painted for preservation purposes. I just dont know if I could paint that beautiful wood. Personally I like the grain and colour variation more then if in all matched, but then I'm a wood-a-holic. I've been scraping the hull on my Swift, I just got a schmoo shaped scraper and I loving the way it fits nearly all the concave parts of the hull.
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SF 0/ Rattlesnake 3 Wow that SF really needs those stern gun ports open, The Rattlesnakes within striking distance.
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Hello RMC, Im not sure on the picture posting issues either. I did want to say I really like the planking. What wood is it, (looks like cherry maybe) the variation in the dark and light especially in the starboard stern section is gorgeous. I love the contrasting wood grain
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Holy munchkinville papercut (ouch, mind if I use Jeff, sound less painful). That constitution is the size of 2 TP rolls. 1:192 scale YIKES. For that kind of scale your doing great. painting over that type of scale, especially on plastic always seems to mute detail. The best way around that is many thin coats and sometime that has an effect on the sheen of the finish. If you have the patience for this scale your ready for wood. I'd suggest a small project perhaps a long boat. Chucks pinnacle was on sale at model expo for a mere $80 and is a beaut'. The email said use code MAD13 and it come with free paints. I'm having a hard time not purchasing this magnificent officer transport. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS1458&srccode=mad13 the pinnacle log. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/363-pinnace-18th-century-by-chuck-12-scale/ he also has a nice practicum for it. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/pinnace%20instructions%20me.pdf Keep on building, she looks great. Especially if she's your first.
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Keith of tmc is fine. Actually I answer to anything, just dont call me late for supper. The white/light ratlines are quite stark but with pictures its always hard to tell colours, as with the yellow ocre which looks bright yellow in some photos probably due to the flash. If you don't mind my asking, is there a fee for passing through the Panama canal? That trip you took sounds like a great adventure. I cant even imagine what it was like back before radio contact.
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MONTANES by Garward - OcCre
themadchemist replied to Garward's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Look at all those stripes, Congrats on making Captain, well deserved. Your advise is always welcomed here. I also agree that actually making your own tools is very satisfying and can be a big part of this hobby. -
Hello Eric. Nice SF Build. ... on the stairs cannon issue, maybe its me but the stairs look thick. comparing the size of the stairs to the cannon it looks like if they were thinner (standing not so far out) they would give room for the double block, or at least more room. She's looking good, but she may need those cannons if that rattlesnake advances on her stern much closer. Also on the guns I saw this posted about the SF and the Armanda of 1588, it seems they used field guns in the beinging and cast iron cannon. heres the link http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?6 Of course as stated, this is an AL kit. One day I plan on a SF build and I want to bash the AL right out of her. Keep up the good work, shes a beaut'
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