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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nirvana
    Looking good Burnside, S/S Mariefred is a little ship. I was thinking about the "light leakage" you were worried about. Now it's to late but one idea that came to mind was to black paint the interior of the hull, or carefully use expansion foam. Another way to had done this would had been using blue insulation foam (not to cover everything) between the bulkheads, see attached picture. This was a quick draft I did in SketchUp 2015 Pro
  2. Nirvana
    I think others has mentioned it already, but I would suggest to paint the white side of the cap rail and the molding underneath the frieze, before attaching the frieze. This way you will have a clean frieze once installing it.
  3. Nirvana
    Cap rail and inner-board painted! First layer and I like it as the grain of basswood (just the cap rail) is coming through.
  4. Nirvana
    For painting the inboard plank (to second down) I choose (after several test) Valejo RED RLM 23. This particular paint is intended for air brushing but turned out very nice with regular brush too. I like it because it's not bright red, but of it's natural dirt red. This is the first layer, some 600 grit sanding and another layer and I think I have the color I want. Second picture shows the brush I been using, made the mistake using a regular one in the beginning,
  5. Nirvana
    Using the compass to get the 3/32" width I trailed from the outside, creating the sanding line. Using the caliper I am very close to the correct measurements, some extra sanding might be needed. The connection of starboard and port cap rail at the stem is an area I am happy with. So far I am satisfied with the out come. Still there is a lot of wood fuzz I need to get rid off. Basswood is not a friend of mine when it comes to sanding. Painting is getting close.
  6. Nirvana
    Augie, your build log is going to help me tremendously, once I get going with my conf. Thank you for all the great pictures. Superb job you have done.
  7. Nirvana
    The shaping of the cap rail especially at the stem area is a slow work. Wonder if anyone has come up with an ingenious way to have them shaped the same?
  8. Nirvana
    Burnside, I am afraid the foil will give to much reflections from your light source unless you dim it. Why not try to attach the floor to the cabin, so when removing the cabin you take the floor along with it? When my father built the Bohuslän he made alternation. Just my two cents. Btw, my head office (for work) is located where you are.
  9. Nirvana
    So, it turned out that the conversion chart provided with my new digital caliber (birthday gift) is wrong. All the numbers are correct down to 3/64 vs. the metric, no wonder I thought the 0.04 seemed a bit off. 1/64" is equal to 0.3967 (not 0.03967 according to the chart) or easier measured 0.4mm I am glad I found out before I didn't have any cap rail lip left.
  10. Nirvana
    Holy moly, Sanding the cap rail and for them to have an 1/64" ( 0.04mm) lip, that is almost next to nothing visible. I think the frieze has the same thickness.
  11. Nirvana
    After many adjustments with the starboard cap rail (and yes I didn't get it right towards the stem, still there is a gap) I have the rail in place. The connection between port and starboard is almost invisible.
  12. Nirvana
    I am behind schedule, according to my planning the cap rail should had been attached and with hull painted. Anyway, I am back at the yard, hopefully some work will be done this weekend as there is no important football going on. Don't know if I went against my better judgement but I decided to attach the cap rail before doing any painting. Here the port side with "lots of extra meat" has been "white glued" into place. Very little of the wood of the cap rail at the stem will be trim to fit the starboard side. Hopefully I will be able to create a "seamless area".
  13. Nirvana
    Ps. I have been trying to find a Dremel work table for a long time!
  14. Nirvana
    Augie, First of all..... just amazing! This is to both of you Augie and Chuck, is there any way to open the deck to reveal the interior of captains cabin? However, I guess both of you have considered this matter already.
  15. Nirvana
    Farbor Fartyg, First of all, a late Happy New Year - ett sent Gott Nytt År! I am so glad to see you back at this setting. I know how it is being away from the "yard" for a while, then coming back..... looking at it, taking a deep breath and letting out the same deep sigh. At the same being re-inspired and getting into it. Looking forward the see more..... of the wreck in deep.
  16. Nirvana
    Divarty, Thank you for the question. No, the inners will first be painted then the cap rail will be attached. This way I have the risers their "shape", while doing the rest. Thinking that having the risers done prior painting and cap rail would ease the later installation. If it works then I am happy. Pictures will tell.
  17. Nirvana
    Here are the two risers profile drying, the lighter one (on the port) is almost dry.
  18. Nirvana
    Before I red paint the inners, I wanted to create the Risers, (I scribed them, accordingly to instructions) my scribing wasn't as close to the edge as Chucks' but I am happy with the outcome. I used the metal ruler and my extreme fine teeth saw to create the line, I was able to go over it three times, then I cleaned it out with a light touch of blade #11. It's amazing how the picture still reveal wood in the grooves. Scribing comes first, then after the soaking I placed the riser to shape it along the inside of the frames.
  19. Nirvana
    I am satisfied with the installation of the floorboards, using model needles for spacing got them tighter but still with a visible gap. The distance is the same on both side. Minimal sanding was needed as the floor boards had been adjusted before.
  20. Nirvana
    Jim, We will never get tired of questions, even repeated ones...... Dremel is good as stated before me, but hand tools is in many ways better, as you will have a feeling of how much you are reducing. As you will reduce so much less. I am using a combo of both, but not for keel. However, the latest Dremel Micro can do real low rpm's which makes it more controllable. If you are not used to such a power tool you can create more harm than greatness. Good luck
  21. Nirvana
    Oh, I forgot to mention that the boards should be sanded down in thickness at both ends. This will create an even end along with the keelson. It's not mention in the instructions but visible on the plans.
  22. Nirvana
    The last two floor boards were shaped (tapered) at the same time to get the same uniform shape.
  23. Nirvana
    Spaceman Spiff, Found another update, The quality of the paint is the same, still manufactured in Japan but runs under the name of GSI Creos - Gunze Sangyo. There are some companies in the US selling their products today. The former company stopped the shipment of their product due to decrease of sale. (read Tamiya's) aggressive marketing along with Testor. Somehow the production was directed to the European/Australian and Japanese market for a long time, but are now back in the USA. The hobbystore chain I am referring to is HobbyTown, I don't know if it is up to each owner to decide what brands to carry but I doubt it. HobbyTown is big and has probably pulled some strings.
  24. Nirvana
    I had the interior wiped with poly. This one comes from General finishes, While waiting for drying I did a test with the Valejo Red RLM23 see the strip to the left. I like the color as it has both a bright but also a little dirty tone to it. This is the color I chosen for the cap rail and the 12mm paint job on the inside. The first starboard floorboard has been shaped (slightly tapered) then soaked for 20 minutes. Using clamps with rubber head (no marking) I clamped the board down using pins for spacing. This way I got the shape of the bent until it is time for gluing. Realized that doing this before adding the cap rail has it's advantages.
  25. Nirvana
    Mark, Seems like it is the top-notch when it comes to paint. There are two versions of the paint, one acrylic and one lacquer based. This is what I found so far. Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Japan was early to adopt acrylic paints in modelling, and Gunze Sangyo has been in the forefront of the development. Gunze Sangyo Aqueous colours are still some of the finest flowing acrylic airbrush paints available. Thinning may be accomplished with either isopropyl alcohol or Gunze thinner, both producing super-thin, smooth coats. The solvent based is called Mr Color.

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