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Nirvana
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Mike, Stupid question, where in Sweden are you located? That scarf looks very nice. Enjoying following your build log. Tack så mycket! -
Mike, That's one the major concern. Making the false keel. But since I have the material I could make it a try. What can I loose? Some high quality material from Jeff? Could be worth the shot.
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Since none of the bulkhead has been "attached" making a new false keel and new true stem and keel would be fairly easy as I have the material. Will see what sanding and "truing" will do.
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I have found out that the false keel provided from MS does break at the stem. I have been very sensitive / delicate with sanding but still the stem has broken at two places. Getting to the point to pondering of replacing the false keel with material from HobbyMills which I already have. Any input an experience in the stem issue???? Or am I alone? Thinking about to using 3x 1/32 sheet boxwood to make this part (false keel ) ..... Or should I proceed from the point where I am at and continue? As for the keel and stem piece out of boxwood, no problems at all!!!!
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Gel coat is like a shiny separate layer, this is the one that goes dull over the years when attended to. "Understanding the materials Polyester resin laminates achieve their highest strength when the bonds between layers of fiberglass are chemical or primary bonds as opposed to mechanical or secondary bonds. The manufacturing process for polyester boats has been developed so that a chemical bond exists between the gelcoat and the laminate. When a polyester boat is built, polyester gelcoat is first sprayed onto the mold surface. The first layer of the laminate is then applied to gelcoat, which has not completely cured. The two layers eventually cure together with a chemical bond between them. Applying gelcoat to a cured laminate relies on a mechanical bond. Because of the difference in curing chemistry, it is not possible to achieve a chemical bond between epoxy and polyester gelcoat. We developed some tests, to determine whether or not the mechanical bonds achieved between gelcoat and properly prepared, cured epoxy were strong enough to achieve a durable repair."
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During the evening I have proceeded with beveling the false keel. This require magnifier with light in order to get the 1/32" thickness . It's amazing that a built like this is so much more fascinating and get ones attention to details than others..... Could it be, because of Chuck? The instructions take me down to the very basic. Can't see me not succeeding with USF Confederacy. Thank you Chuck!
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This is to show my man made keel and stem vs. MS kit material.
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Floyd, it is the box wood stem piece, if you look at the piece it doesn't have the holes drilled yet. Stem piece and keel notch to notch
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I followed Chucks' advice and rotated the template, after negotiating the material for some hours I think the picture tells about the outcome. Yes, I am pleased. I know there will be some extra finishing sanding.
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Second coating of PolyWipeOn, by using this contraption I am able to do both sides at the same time. Did it outside to minimize the odor of the liquid.
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I am certainly going to pick up the idea of shaping the booms and yards.
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I followed the advice working with a coarser sandpaper to begin with and followed up with 400 grit. The sheets came out very nice. The discoloration is natural in the wood. Nothing I can do about. The upper sheet hasn't had the removal of dust attended yet. The keel and stem piece will be from HobbyMills longboat boxwood upgrade. I scanned part of the plans and cut out the keel template, attached it to the boxwood sheet and saw it. The connection notch on the keel was cut out using my very new fine-tooth saw. And the final outcome, this without sanding at all.
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Floyd, hope you sanded the false keel to the 1/32" dimension mentioned in the instructions, before you added the boxwood keel and stem?
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mike, I don' t want to go over this surface with to coarse sandspaper. But I will try out on other area, before applying your method. Thank you Sent from Nexus7 tablet
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Group, I have all the material for the build of the longboat, even the nice boxwood from Jeff Hayes and HobbyMill. However, I have a question with this before I get head into it. The sheet holding bulkhead and keel is very heavy chard from the laser cutting. In the attached picture I have gone over the sheets with a 400 grit paper, don't want to do to much. But the chard remains. Has anyone else experienced this and how was your approach to get a clean surface? Thank you
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Michael, all you need is a minimum of 12" constant depth and you are set. Check the city pond, great place to attract others interest as well.
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Augie, That rudder turned out amazingly! Very Nice Seems like you followed the instructions to the very detail. Looking forward to get my "beast" (weight wise) in the beginning of next week. She will not be the next in line though. Have the 18th century longboat first. But still a Passaro kit. With the upgraded wood from Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill. Talking about Jeff at HobbyMill, did you order any material from him and if so would it be possible for me get the list of changes? If so, please pm that one.
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BTW, this is what I like with this forum, feedback from other members, even when you don't ask for it. Blackie, thanks again.
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Blackie, Thank you for the information. Hmm, one side of the bulwarks was divided in two pieces just as you mentioned while there were other "try-outs" of the same. Truth, the kit is not original at all, bought it with many non-factory parts. As an example, the walnut hull planking didn't even reach the full length as stipulated in the material list, all came out 2cm shorter. The false keel and bulkheads When it comes to gunports, I am to relocate them, to the time era. The "potty-houses" will not be added at all. No ship as I have found has had them at the stem area. "Just think about it, you need to go and here we dive into a wave, that flush would be more than anyone need" I hope it will work out as I intend.
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JB, Bulwarks is a challenge because there is no even spot. As I mentioned before in my log I replaced the stiff plywood bulwark pieces with card stock, and since this piece is to be covered anyway, I gave it a go. The inside planking and caulking works fine I think.
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Bulwark planking and using the "eye-liner" method for caulking.
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This may sound strange, but while doing the simulated caulking of the deck on my Harley almost a Harvey, I started wondering if the eye-liner products (for women) could do the same job as a graphite pen. I have found that both the products are smearing if not being careful, but the eye-liner will do a better covering in one stroke. Will update later with pictures. But this truly works! And considering all the Admirals in our Forum it's time for you to open up the make-up boxes. You have a great tool nearby!
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