jablackwell

Pic 1 shows the horizontal paper strips mounted on the thin plywood.  I used spray adhesive.  They are then cut out for mounting on the hull according to the guides pictured in my previous post.
 
The instructions call for mounting the strips with pins only (there are about 18 on each side), then outlining them in pencil, then removing them to remove the vertical guides, then gluing them on again.
 
I realized that the only reason for that two-step process is to get the vertical guides off the hull, and it occurred to me that I could just pencil mark their position, then remove them, and then mount the horizontal strips with glue in one step.  Pics 2-4 show the marking process, and it should save me a bunch of time.  I also hate pinning things as the pins come loose, or put holes in the wood that have to be filled, so this avoids that.
 
Pic 5 is the first strip I've cut out.  Strong sharp scissors work fine.  I'll post again when I have some strips glued on.
 
Regards,
David

Hello Johann,
a nice example picture of
Alain Wernimont.
Karl

Slow but sure I'm trimming out the longboat. This is the fifth week of working on it!

I've added my version of oarlocks and built the rudder

I painted the outside of the hull white and painted the inside wood colored. For the picture I dry fitted some stained pieces and it looks ok to me.

And just some overall shots.
 
The bridge didn't sit perfectly (had some warp on the other side) and needs some minor filling and fixing but nothing too serious.
 

So been grinding this whole weekend.
 
Some minor details and the MK 37 directors missing.
 
Sorry, the lights were almost out of batteries so the pictures aren't as sharp as I wanted them to be but here we go...
 





 
 

Did someone ask for throbbing engines...?
 
PT.wmv

Here is my latest addition to the fleet. Please go to my website for a complete build log.
 
http://geneberger-models.com/pt-117-motor-torpedo-boat/
 
 

Fab!!!  
 

After a break of about 2 months enforced by several unexpected events I finally found some time and built the 3 remaining hammock nettings. I already described that the ‘unframed’ sides of the nettings were attached via black 100wt silk thread and CA glue to the rope which spans from the boarding panel to the last hammock crane. I neglected to say that it was not quite easy to get a clean finish there. At least I was not able to cut off the net along the rope in a satisfactory manner using fine scissors (img 1, left side). Part of the net was always protruding beyond the rope. I finally ‘stiffened’ the protruding ends with CA glue and removed them via a rotary tool with a fine diamond burr (img 1, right side). After a little touch up with black paint the result turned out acceptable (img 2, 3).
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 
 

Finish 😅 one side,  more to go before the copper plates is dunn!
 
Svein.erik 

Challenge was an understatment! Rigging the steering was a lesson in frustration especially for my shaky fat fingers. It's rigged with one long line and it works, but it's stiff. Maybe I'll put some beeswax on the lines to lube them. It's also not neat and pretty like the drawings. 

Thankyou Pete,
 
Now some pictures of the completed cross section.

Thanks for your appreciation, Ward.
It is the moment to make the most important equipment of a 18th century warship: the artillery.
I want to cast the gun barrels in tin. To make the casting mold, I turn a model of a gun barrel in wood. I start with drilling the hole for the trunnions next to the center line of a piece of olive wood.

Then I turn the barrel in accordance with the plan.

I leave a funnel-shaped appendix at the gun mouth. It will form the pouring opening in the casting mold.

The mold will be made in a small wooden box in which fit the gun model. The purpose of the two small planks with the conical wooden pins next to the box will become clear soon. The two nails in the trunnions keep my gun model in the middle of the box and will also make two air tunnels in the mold through which the air can escape when pouring the melted tin in the mold.

The mold will be made with a heat resistant silicone. It consists of a red colored raisin which has to be mixed with 2.5% hardener.

My box has a volume of about 22 cl. I start with making 10 cl of silicone and pour it in the box. I press the gun model in the silicone until it sits approx. halfway in the fluid.

 I lay also the two planks with wooden pins on the box in such a way that the tops of the pins are sitting in the silicone.

A day later the silicone is hard (or soft like rubber) and the pins can be removed. They form four conical holes in the top of the bottom half of the mold. All silicone spills on the wooden gun model are removed. I spray some release agent on it.

Now I mix again 10 cl silicone and fill the box.

A day later the mold can be dismantled and the two halves can be taken token apart. In the bottom half of the mold are the four pits of the wooden pins and in the upper half four protrusions which perfectly fit in them. They make it possible to join the mold perfectly.

I use tin for plumbers to make the guns. It is sold as rods of about 30 cm long, pieces can be sawn of with a metal saw. My melting furnace is a simple spirit fire and a small sauce pan.

The melted tin is poured in the mold.

Some ten minutes later the mold can be opened. Be careful because although the tin has solidified, it is still very hot.

The pouting funnel is sawn of and I drill out the mouth of the gun.

All the mold seams are filed and the barrels are blackened.

nicely done...she looks great!   

Some finished 5" turrets.
 




 
I also made some home brew floaters in the baskets. The Tamiya one is pretty crude replication of them with a tarp on top of them.
Also wanted to depict them without the tarp on top of them. I made some "bedrolls" from masking tape varying in different sizes.
They were painted and placed in the baskets and added some arresting wires.
 



 
The netting in the aft also recieved some arresting cables. I used infinis super fine (0.065 mm) brass rods for this.
 

 
And some overall shots. Started to add railings. I first painted them dark gray. After cutting out of the fret I modified them to match all the deck details and cut the bottom run away. Then stanchions were brush painted and glued down.
 



 
 

He’s a bit like the All Blacks compared to the rest of the world in Rugby 

Did something a little different for the cleats. I have had glued on cleats come off in the past so I wanted them more secure. I measured and marked where they are and drilled small starter holes for them with a small twist drill. I then used these small drill/reamer tools I got many years ago. They twist i and open the hole. Then you can use them like a mini file or rasp to remove wood. I slowly did this form one hole to another to open up a slot through the boom and gaff. I pre-shaped the cleats out of scrap I have.  When all is shaped and ready I put glue in the open slot and push the cleat all the way through so it is sticking out of both sides then shape them up down to proper size.
 
Don't know when I will get back to the shipyard. One of my Aunts died and I will be going out of town for a few days, leaving there and going straight to a Dr. appointment.  I will most likely be very sick from the travelling and my body will crash on me for a few days when I get back.
 
Jesse

FLY IS COMPLETED.
 
I finished the H.M.S. Fly today -- competed pics are in the Completed Kits Gallery.  Just a couple of samples here.
 
I wanted to see what the lifeboat from the upgrade would look like, so I built it and liked it, so installed it on the ship.  I made some mods to it, including using real wood planks down the side at the gunwales, vs. paint.
 
A couple of kit build notes from my most recent work:
 
I added some fine thread braces to the stays the crow's feet are attached to, to keep the crow's feet tight.  Important as the stays are pulled up by the rigging and need some counter-balance. I ran out of 3mm and 5mm blocks, and 3mm deadeyes.  Fortunately, I had leftovers (plenty) from the Amati Revenge kit, so I was OK, but a caution to other builders.  I didn't lose more than 2-3 of each on the floor. Now a break from kit building while my wife and I go on a Greek Islands cruise.  When I return in late September, I'm going to tackle the Amati Titanic, and I'll create a detailed build log for that as I don't see much on this site.
 
Regards, and Happy Labor Day to the Americans,
David

I started work on the first four  launches today.   This is the fun stuff I love to do. The first thing I did is drilled out the portholes, 24 in all. 

next I take these pieces. 

fold  up the two tabs towards the rear. 

then  slide the two tabs into two slots on a corresponding peace. 


I did that four times

Now alot of bending coming up. 

 That is all for now.   Did I use the word corresponding in its correct context? 

Time for another update. I got stuck into the head rails. Boy, that was a fiddly exercise, definitely the most tricky part of the build so far (in my case anyway). I think I got away with it. There are plenty of mistakes I can point out (and will be obvious for most of you on the forum), but overall I am pleased with the look.
For each head timber in between the rails there are a few in the bin and a few still on the floor bounced out of sight. The carvings are also a fit iffy.
I also want to give a bit of a plug to John Garcia from Model expo. I ran out of small eyepins and couldn't find them on line. When I asked John if I could buy them from model expo, he just asked for my mailing address and sent them to me free of charge. Now that is service....
Now for some photo's.
Cheers, Peter

Wel , I think I forgot the photo 😲

Awesome work on that netting: I am taking notes!  Nicely done, Jesse!
~john

The plastic worked well for the 2 pin pin rails on either side of the fore mast. This time they're epoxied on there. 

Halyards and downhauls for the Jib, flying jib, outer, inner, and topmast staysails are in. 
I found it interesting the topmast halyard didn't have a block at the head cringe of the sail, it was just sister hooked to the head cringe. So I just hooked the downhaul to an eyesplice in the halyard as shown below in the top of the picture. 

Jib and flying jib halyards and downhauls

That brings me to here...

Next, I think it's time to get serious about these darn whaleboats. 
But not before a a little weekend trip to the New Bedford whaling museum. The wife and I are headed up there early tomorrow morning to spend a day there...Russ--I'll ask about the plans they used to sell on line..maybe we'll get lucky and they'll have a set laying around they would sell.