Ulises Victoria

Liquid cement will definitely ruin your paint job if it touches the paint. You need to scrape off the paint in all surfaces that are going to be glued, or the joint will not be strong enough. Hope this helps.

Good work Pepe. You are getting the hang of it!!!

HI Brian yes I checked age of sail they are not showing any Mamoli kits especially the Royal Lowis 

    I did see them listed on naturecousehobby and even e-mailed them to make sure but they never replied back 

 and for a good price should I take a chance a order one from them 

                    Ronald

My experience with Nature Coast Hobbies is totally negative, I'm afraid.

I built a plastic Heller Royal Louis in 1/200 scale, many years ago. As to why Mamoli's is the only wooden Royal Louis kit available, I wouldn't know.

Did you consider to use a mixture of the white wood glue with water (50/50%) and then fix each knot with a small drop of this mixture using a small old brush

consider that CA might break after several years and this is a very hard glue connection which can also break after touching once you are finished.

 

this is my experience as well from several experienced builders in the Netherlands, we try to not use CA on shipmodels except when all other glues cannot be used

I am using CA only to make a needle from the beginning of a rope so this makes it a lot easier to have the rope in small openings from blocks etc.

What I have used with excellent results is flat clear varnish. It dries flat, invisible, no shiny spots as with CA and is just strong enough to do the job.

Sjors: Yes, I want to. Kit comes with no sails, (my avatar is the photo in the box) thus no sail rigging or instructions. I think I asked somewhere earlier about some books on French ships of the line rigging. I have several about English tho, but I am not sure what problems or issues I'd encounter if I put English rigging on a French ship!!!   

Beautiful work, my friend. Your sails look so natural. I'm still undecided about how I'm going to deploy sails on my RL, and seeing yours I may decide to put them fully set.

I have turned several pens and cigar holders with padauk. To me, that's just how the wood is.

What I do... and i mean... this is what *I* do... I never left shiny brass things that are not supposed to be shiny. For example: cannons, rudder hinges, cannon port covers hinges, eyebolts, anchor rings, most chains... I do let shinning or brass shinning things like bells and things that in the real thing are supposed to be brass color or shining. Just think a bit about it and you may come to an answer to yourself about what things to let brass shinning and which don't,.

just my 2 cents

Hello Michael. I think people who is trying to give you an answer are confused with your use of the words "glow/glowing" Glow means to shine, some thing bright. Perhaps you mean to say "glue or gluing".

Hello and thank you, JP.

I estimate around 260 hours.

I started on April 11, and I work an average of 2 hours a day, 5 days a week. That's about 10 hours a week. I think 260 hours is a pretty accurate estimate.

I remember once doing a test using regular overhand knots to tie my ratlines, thinking that the difference would not be noticeable and that the work would be faster.

Well, the difference WAS noticeable and the work was NOT faster. After tying several thousands of clove hitches, they were just like a second nature.

Pepe: May I suggest that if you are going to put new photos of your build, to open a new answer (Use the  "Reply to this Topic" blank screen at the bottom and click the "more reply options" button) so people know there are new pics about your build.

Going good, btw.Those balsa fillers look good. 

Vivian: Great work, linda.

If you don't like the tension on the mast, by all means change it. Otherwise, It will haunt you every day. You will feel a lot better after you fix it. Believe me! That's something I've learned in this hobby.

Hello. Just wondering if this product has some use in our hobby, or if it's more intended towards RC balsa models? After reading the description in Amazon's site sounds like a good choice for planking as it seems to be used like a contact cement. Wondering about its durability.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NDZHQ/ref=pe_847930_124592710_em_1p_0_des

Thank you

I am so very glad my work help you!

I just found this in Amazon. Looks like it has almost everything you need to start building your first kit. And if those prices tags are correct, ( a 74% savings, from 99.99 to 25.99, ) this is a steal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H239GA8/ref=pe_153710_124060050_em_1p_1_ti

Best regards

Ulises

Amazon sells what seems to be a similar product.

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Brass-Touch-Up-3-Ounce/dp/B0000C514O/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1411595890&sr=1-1&keywords=blacken-it

And Model Expo will have it in 15-30 days

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=AW2

Hello.I recommend visit this site. Plenty of photos of the real Vasa, as well as of some well researched models.

http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/

I'm planning to try this product on the wales of my Royal Louis. Will post results when done.

Don't be mislead by the words "metallic finish" that only applies to metallic finishes like gold, silver, copper, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Brickyard-Ceramics-Crafts-Buff-Ebony/dp/B0002IXUQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411300821&sr=8-2&keywords=rub%27n+buff+ebony

Ulises

Outsanding job. Every time I come to visit I see something new that inspires me!

Excellent job, my friend!

My opinion would be: Better a bit too small than a bit too large. But that's just me.

Hello Chuck. Of course they are. Solid hull is just another method of building. Solid hull, butter and bread, plank on bulkhead, plank on frame all have their value.

Besides, you can always plank a solid hull and no one but you (and we if you post a log ) will ever know

Thank you both, mates. I feel a lot of support from you!!! Good ideas. Will take them into account!

OK Some photos of the fix suggested by Sjors and Nigel above. Thank you guys!!!

You can see some of the small vertical planks I added as suggested. (This wood splinters so bad.)

Also, here is a photo of a plank I just place momentarily there for the purpose of showing the other problem I mentioned before: the gap that is going to be between the top and the next plank. I'm thinking to fill with with planks put sideways.