Ulises Victoria

Update June 25 2014

I used balsa blocks to fill empty spaces. This is the first time I attempt something like this.

I know it's not the cleanest of the jobs, but I think it will serve its purpose

I had to modify the slots where the cannon frames go. They were not aligned properly.

This is a job that has consumed a lot of my time because I know it's a very critical step.

Here I am dry fitting the cannon frames to check that their height is correct so the carriages/cannons assemblies are properly aligned and that the cannons can fit through the openings. A lot of extra trimming/refilling had to be done here.

A very fine brush, very little paint on it, a very steady hand, eye magnifiers and a bucket load of patience. I did something similar in my Golden Hind.I used the brush almost dry of paint. It took several passes to leave a good coat of paint.

There is something strange in the poster's photo. The ship looks unfinished except for the golden ornaments.

In any case you should paint the hull of it's right color(s) and lastly the ornaments.

I don't see how that modeler is going to paint the hull without messing the gold.

 

Gracias, Ulises! Tedrás que perdonarme, pero soy Brasil en eso!!! :P   (excuse-me, but I´m Brazil in there)

Couldn't expect less. 

Here's to a great match, whoever wins. 

Splendid!!! I love the old worn look you gave to the decks. Very nicely done. Felicidades, linda.

(Hey... in two hours... Brazil vs. México)

Hey... can you make a trial for wood glues?        (just kidding)

Very informative. I use Blacken-It extensively as I hate gold and shinny parts on my ships, except where it's meant to be.

Nice work, Viv.

Hey... are you getting ready for the World Cup?

I am building Mamoli's 1/90 Royal Louis.

Mixed feelings.

Instructions are for advanced builders. Don't expect step by step instructions. But of course, this is not a kit for a beginner either.

Lots of metallic parts. Wood materials look excellent, except for some walnut strips that look like they were ripped instead of cut.

Bulkhead laser cut parts were cut very precisely, as there were just a few adjustments that had to be done, which I consider normal for a kit of this complexity.

Laser cut false decks were another area where more heavy adjustments had to be done.

Since I am just beginning this build, there isn't much more I can say about it at this time.

In dollar per hour spent, modeling has a minuscule price and the value is incomparable.

 

 

Absolutely. It's cheaper than going to the movies.

I tried to get a few pieces of wood from Victory. My dream was (is) to turn a pen or set of pens with wood from Victory.

I copy below the answer I got from them:

Hello Michael. The sails in my Bounty, which were unfurled was a set I bought specifically for her. And yes, they are too thick.

However, I tend to prefer to put furled sails, as in my Vasa. I do not follow any pattern. I just cut a triangular piece of cloth with the larger side to the length of the mast, and bend the sail to the mast. I may use white glue on the edges to prevent the cloth from unraveling.

The triangular shape is so that they don't get too fat in the middle.

I would love to know more about your daughter in law's "amazing" electronic sewing machine. Sounds like a CNC for fabric works.

Thank you very much for your kind words, John.

The best thing you can say to me is that you learned something from my work, especially since I don't consider myself an expert by any means.

I appreciate it.

They have the Royal Louis kit on Ebay right now for $490.00 + $25.00 shipping. I'm sooooo tempted. But I have built a few Mamoli kits in the past and their quality seemed a bit lacking.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271478783703?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ulises,

 

I'm known to be skeptical (seller claims new), this price is probably even below mainstream vendors cost IMO. "If its too good to be true"....The seller does have an excellent history however. Certainly a beautiful ship. As some say its a crap shoot. Again I'm a very doubtful type.

 

Michael

Nice choice for a build! I was wondering where you found it?? I am interested in French designed vessels but know nothing of where to find good kits. Presently working a Xebec and dare not to show photos as of yet since this is my first build I believe I will finish.

 

Best wishes on your new journey!

I have to say that if I'm building this ship it's because I had the opportunity to buy it really cheap. I paid $450 USD at Model Expo in May 2010. 

That's cool mtdoramike

I found this. Anyone has some experience with this or sees it as a possible solution?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DECK-HULL-PLANKING-WITH-WOOD-CALKING-STRIPS-ATTACHED-MAKES-FOR-BEAUTIFUL-DECKS-/271507749176?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3f371f7938

That's OK, Michael, but I am not the one trying or wanting to buy the kit. I already have it.  

I have seen very some incredible solutions here for caulking a deck. Not sure whether it may have been mentioned but would a fairly good size kit rope inked with black ink and filling into seams as is done on real life older ships work??? I am considering this for my Xebec that I have finally gotten back to work on. Please if someone has tried this arduous procedure completed let us know....I suspect it may take some time but the effects to me anyway would seem to appear quite realistic.

I personally wouldn't go that route. Even if that's the closest possible to the real thing, I don't think it would be feasible on a scale model. What scale is your Xebec? My opinion is the inking of the sides of the planks is enough.

Hola linda!

Wow you are doing a magnificent job. I confess I haven't visited for some time and what I see now is great progress and very well done.

Felicidades chica!

Thank you Mike. I will post the definitive results once I have finished planking my decks.

Ulises

Could you give the source of the photos ??  I (and maybe others) would like to see more of the build.

thanks

Tom

Its from a PDF file of a magazine from a Ship Modeling Club in Spain. Obviously in Spanish. Too large to post here. (19mb) If you want I can try to zip it and send by email.

Nigel may be right. That is a definitive possibility.

This guy is planking vertically, while the method I am used to is horizontally, meaning you lay each plank all the way from bow to stern.

What are your comments on this matter? What would problems arise with this "vertical" method?

Hi Nick- Thanks for visiting and your comments.

I want this ship to look used. So I want to give the decks a weathered appearance without being too overdone. I have a product called Weather-it. It's supposed to "age" unpainted wood, but unfortunately, that looks is lost when applying something over it like tung oil, boiled linseed oil or varnish.

It seems like number 10 is the look I want.I will also do some weathering techniques on the hull, like applying a slight brick-red color dry brush around the gunports and a few water running marks as well as some rust where the anchors hang. Will see how this come out.

Wow... I would describe the dry brush technique in a couple of sentences. This is way beyond that. Excellent description.

Thank you for visiting, my dear!

Small update. May 23 2014.

Transom work in progress.

It took me a long time to finally decide how to do this area.

The plans show the 4 per side wood curved supports to be equally separated, but there was no way you could fit the metallic gunport frames and have the same distance between each 4 at each side.

So I glued the supports after measuring that the metallic gunports were even. I then carved them down flush with the supports and lastly proceeded to plank.

This is not finished yet, just lightly sanded.

View of deck

First steps in transom. .

Rudder and rear gunport frames glued and shaped.You will see a bit of wood had to be added to make the height of the columns equal

Planking

Remember this is not finished yet

This is where I tested different finishes and treatments to help me decide what I'm going to do with the decks.

Thanks for watching