jhearl
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon saw advice
The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/3 less too." That was the point at which I rang up the sale. 😄
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon saw advice
The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/3 less too." That was the point at which I rang up the sale. 😄
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jhearl got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Proxxon saw advice
The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/3 less too." That was the point at which I rang up the sale. 😄
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jhearl got a reaction from bruce d in Proxxon saw advice
The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/3 less too." That was the point at which I rang up the sale. 😄
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jhearl got a reaction from Gregory in Proxxon saw advice
The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/3 less too." That was the point at which I rang up the sale. 😄
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in The right Hull color for Smuggler
Given the fact that different computers reproduce colors that can vary widely, it's impossible to tell from a photo whether or not the color you see on your hull is the same color I see on my laptop screen. So I wouldn't comment on whether or not it's "right" although it looks very orange to me. I have been using a rattle can paint for the bottoms of my Chesapeake Bay workboat model hulls for the past few years. It's Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover "flat red primer" which has a reddish-brown color. It's only about $4 a can at Walmart, so you might give it a try on some scrap.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in The right Hull color for Smuggler
Given the fact that different computers reproduce colors that can vary widely, it's impossible to tell from a photo whether or not the color you see on your hull is the same color I see on my laptop screen. So I wouldn't comment on whether or not it's "right" although it looks very orange to me. I have been using a rattle can paint for the bottoms of my Chesapeake Bay workboat model hulls for the past few years. It's Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover "flat red primer" which has a reddish-brown color. It's only about $4 a can at Walmart, so you might give it a try on some scrap.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Nirvana in New to ship modelling? But what do you build first?
I'm a little surprised you didn't mention any of Bluejacket's entry-level kits. The first kit I successfully completed many years ago was the Grand Banks dory. As well, I think some of the easier solid-hull kits, like Yankee Hero are a good choice for those with little or no experience.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category=
I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder.
One other thing that has not been mentioned so far is the weight of the larger lathes. I don't have room in my shop to keep the lathe set up all the time. I have to store it under a workbench. Bringing out the Sherline is no big deal, but one of the larger lathes can weigh upwards of 1oo pounds! I sure as heck wouldn't be moving that thing around. Also, as others have said, if you buy the Sherline, absolutely buy the long bed. I made the mistake of buying the short bed and quickly came to regret it. It's possible to upgrade later, but it's 3 times more expensive than buying it up front.
Definitely check the prices at https://www.discountcampus.com/
They are an authorized Sherline distributor and, in fact, anything you buy gets shipped directly from Sherline anyway and carries their full warranty.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from BobG in Smuggler by Brianh526 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1' - plans by Erik Ronnberg Jr. - First wooden ship build
I"m not sure if you are aware, but if you click on any image to open it, you will see some icons at the top of the window. There's one that looks like a circle with an "i" inside it. If you click on that icon, it will bring up comments on the right side of the image where he explains what's going on in each image.
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jhearl got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Smuggler by Brianh526 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1' - plans by Erik Ronnberg Jr. - First wooden ship build
Bob -
Thanks for the nice compliments, but if you want to see a truly beautiful model of Smuggler, take a look at the one built by Bob Steinbrunn. Truly amazing!
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from BobG in Smuggler by Brianh526 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1' - plans by Erik Ronnberg Jr. - First wooden ship build
Bob -
Thanks for the nice compliments, but if you want to see a truly beautiful model of Smuggler, take a look at the one built by Bob Steinbrunn. Truly amazing!
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Brianh526 in Smuggler by Brianh526 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1' - plans by Erik Ronnberg Jr. - First wooden ship build
Bob -
Thanks for the nice compliments, but if you want to see a truly beautiful model of Smuggler, take a look at the one built by Bob Steinbrunn. Truly amazing!
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Jorge Hedges in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category=
I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder.
One other thing that has not been mentioned so far is the weight of the larger lathes. I don't have room in my shop to keep the lathe set up all the time. I have to store it under a workbench. Bringing out the Sherline is no big deal, but one of the larger lathes can weigh upwards of 1oo pounds! I sure as heck wouldn't be moving that thing around. Also, as others have said, if you buy the Sherline, absolutely buy the long bed. I made the mistake of buying the short bed and quickly came to regret it. It's possible to upgrade later, but it's 3 times more expensive than buying it up front.
Definitely check the prices at https://www.discountcampus.com/
They are an authorized Sherline distributor and, in fact, anything you buy gets shipped directly from Sherline anyway and carries their full warranty.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category=
I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder.
One other thing that has not been mentioned so far is the weight of the larger lathes. I don't have room in my shop to keep the lathe set up all the time. I have to store it under a workbench. Bringing out the Sherline is no big deal, but one of the larger lathes can weigh upwards of 1oo pounds! I sure as heck wouldn't be moving that thing around. Also, as others have said, if you buy the Sherline, absolutely buy the long bed. I made the mistake of buying the short bed and quickly came to regret it. It's possible to upgrade later, but it's 3 times more expensive than buying it up front.
Definitely check the prices at https://www.discountcampus.com/
They are an authorized Sherline distributor and, in fact, anything you buy gets shipped directly from Sherline anyway and carries their full warranty.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from dvm27 in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category=
I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder.
One other thing that has not been mentioned so far is the weight of the larger lathes. I don't have room in my shop to keep the lathe set up all the time. I have to store it under a workbench. Bringing out the Sherline is no big deal, but one of the larger lathes can weigh upwards of 1oo pounds! I sure as heck wouldn't be moving that thing around. Also, as others have said, if you buy the Sherline, absolutely buy the long bed. I made the mistake of buying the short bed and quickly came to regret it. It's possible to upgrade later, but it's 3 times more expensive than buying it up front.
Definitely check the prices at https://www.discountcampus.com/
They are an authorized Sherline distributor and, in fact, anything you buy gets shipped directly from Sherline anyway and carries their full warranty.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from cristikc in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Artesania Latina #20500 - Scale 1:75 - 2nd build
You can use much the same technique with served shrouds as you do with those that aren't served. Start with a longer-than needed piece of shroud line. Put it on your serving machine and serve only the center part that will go over the mast. Then, put the shroud on the mast and temporarily make the loop (hold it with an alligator clip). Then, using your deadeye jig to hold the deadeyes the right distance apart (note - your jig needs to hold two deadeyes at once), wrap the free ends of both shroud lines around the upper deadeyes. You can then mark where you want your serving to begin and end. Then put the shroud back on the serving machine and serve the ends between the marks. Then you put the shroud back on the mast, seize the loop at the masthead and then seize the loops at the deadeyes.
Note that the serving at the deadeyes come well above them as shown in the picture below. There should be two seizings as well. In your picture, the served part of the shroud is cut way too short.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Boxbuilds in Help with soldering
I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money.
My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small.
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with soldering
American Beauty makes a tweezer-style hand piece that uses metal electrodes. Very expensive, unfortunately, but they don't break and allow you to get into very tight places. See an example here:
https://americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Tweezer-Systems/99/features
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from druxey in Help with soldering
American Beauty makes a tweezer-style hand piece that uses metal electrodes. Very expensive, unfortunately, but they don't break and allow you to get into very tight places. See an example here:
https://americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Tweezer-Systems/99/features
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Artesania Latina #20500 - Scale 1:75 - 2nd build
As Mark Twain said, more or less, the rumors or my demise have been greatly exaggerated! Still alive and kicking although a bit more slowly every year. I retired in September of last year and have been enjoying lots more time to work on models. I still maintain the website and am currently working on a scratch build of a Chesapeake Bay buyboat.
Doug - looks like your BN2 is coming along well.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Help with soldering
I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money.
My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small.
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Duanelaker in Help with soldering
I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money.
My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small.
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with soldering
I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money.
My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small.
Hope that helps -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from kurtvd19 in Help with soldering
I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money.
My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small.
Hope that helps -
John
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