jhearl
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jhearl got a reaction from AntonyUK in Byrnes saw sled
I thought I'd make one other suggestion that, in retrospect, makes me feel dumb that I didn't think of it immediately. You don't always need that depth stop part. I mean the little hangy-down part on the right. I had gotten into the habit of removing it and laying the piece of metal and the screw down on the bench. Doubtless, everyone elses' workbenches are neat and tidy at all times, but mine quickly becomes a disaster zone while I'm working. So small parts like that can often get moved out of sight or separated from each other by the gremlins who live in my shop. The simple and obvious solution is to simply turn the part around and hang it down on the back side of the fence. Like I say, I feel dumb that it didn't occur to me to do that until yesterday, but maybe it's something that hasn't occurred to someone else yet either. (Not saying you're dumb! )
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Nirvana in New to ship modelling? But what do you build first?
I'm a little surprised you didn't mention any of Bluejacket's entry-level kits. The first kit I successfully completed many years ago was the Grand Banks dory. As well, I think some of the easier solid-hull kits, like Yankee Hero are a good choice for those with little or no experience.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from PeteB in Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
I would suggest getting the tilting angle table (3750) over the right angle attachment. It's much more versatile since you can set it to any angle between 0 and 90.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from JP01 in Kathryn by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:32 - Skipjack Based on HAER Drawings
When I built my buyboat model last year, I too was faced with the challenge of making turnbuckles. I took a slightly different approach. Let me mention right up front that the scale of my boat is 1:24 so this may be more difficult at your scale but perhaps it's worth consideration.
As seen in the pic below. I used some 1/16" brass tubing cut to short lengths. I soldered pieces of square brass solid rod to each side of the tubing. I did not attempt to tap threads in the tubing - as you've discovered, small, left-hand taps and dies are expensive or unavailable. I did thread both rods using a right-hand die. Even at my larger scale, it's pretty much impossible to tell which direction the threads run but you can tell they are threaded at least. I simply epoxied the rods into the turnbuckle bodies.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
I would suggest getting the tilting angle table (3750) over the right angle attachment. It's much more versatile since you can set it to any angle between 0 and 90.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
I would suggest getting the tilting angle table (3750) over the right angle attachment. It's much more versatile since you can set it to any angle between 0 and 90.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Jack12477 in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Julie Mo in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from davyboy in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Altduck in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from jud in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from MEDDO in Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
I have this quaint habit of looking at real ships when I want to know how something is done. Here are a few examples:
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Archi in Byrnes saw sled
I got my sliding table last week. The little plastic-topped screws for the depth stop really annoyed me - too hard to grab and start in the holes. So I went to the hardware store and got some brass 6-32 machine screws and knurled brass nuts. I glued the nuts to the screws with a bit of medium CA. I find these way easier to use.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from coxswain in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
My bad - I mis-remembered a newsletter last year where you were working on Notman and then there was a picture of Al holding plans for Wyoming. That's going to make one helluva model!
Thanks -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Rocket 1888 by Jack12477 - FINISHED - 1:24 scale - 50' Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht
For the rubber bushing, if you can get to a hardware store, you can find a large-diameter rubber o-ring of the appropriate thickness and cut a small slice out of it. A large diameter is desirable because the smaller the diameter, the tighter the curve. A small slice from a large o-ring will appear to be straight. You can drill a hole through the center of that slice so it will slip over the tiller shaft.
Below is an example where I used an o-ring to make the rubber bumpers on a main-sheet horse. This was at a scale of 1:32.
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
My bad - I mis-remembered a newsletter last year where you were working on Notman and then there was a picture of Al holding plans for Wyoming. That's going to make one helluva model!
Thanks -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from mtaylor in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
This is off-topic, but I'm curious - whatever happened to your build of Wyoming?
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
My bad - I mis-remembered a newsletter last year where you were working on Notman and then there was a picture of Al holding plans for Wyoming. That's going to make one helluva model!
Thanks -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
My bad - I mis-remembered a newsletter last year where you were working on Notman and then there was a picture of Al holding plans for Wyoming. That's going to make one helluva model!
Thanks -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from thibaultron in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
This is off-topic, but I'm curious - whatever happened to your build of Wyoming?
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from Canute in CSS Virginia by MrBlueJacket - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - scale 1:192 (1/16" = 1')
This is off-topic, but I'm curious - whatever happened to your build of Wyoming?
Cheers -
John
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jhearl got a reaction from John Allen in rigid ratlines
Here are two examples from real ships. The first is from the whaleship Morgan at Mystic Seaport. The second is fishing schooner. As you can see, they're just lashed in place.
Cheers -
John
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