DBorgens

Glenn,

I’ll pull up a chair as I’ve found you logs and comments very helpful. Very nice workspace, especially the counter space. My saws and sander are in the garage which provides some exercise (one flight of stairs).

Dave B

Now THAT would be a. challenge!

Dave B

Can I social distance at 1:388? 😁

Dave B

Patrick, glad to see you back! Your Sapphire makes me want to sneak aboard, ha ha. Very well done while I still struggle at 1/64th. 
 

Dave B

Bob,

Welcome back, it’s been a while. I’ll stay tuned.

Dave B

Dave, I’ll pull up a chair and follow along. Very nice work so far. I’m interested in a future scratch POF and this may fit the bill. Have you bought many of Bob Hunt’s books? They are very expensive for the lot. 
 

Dave B

Hello and welcome to MSW.
Very nice carving in a beautiful block of oak. I would be tempted to finish it it with a fine sanding, some oil and congratulate myself on a fine hull. While I don’t have any tips, I will sit back and enjoy your build.

Dave B

Be sure to include the width extensions for the pin rails, otherwise you will drill the holes nearly on the glue line. This leads to more shaping of the cap rails but is worth the effort. This is not an original thought, I saw it on another build log at the time.

One thing I’ve learned about ship building is to always think ahead. 

Dave B

Patrick, great progress. It is a pleasure to see her lines at these early stages. On to the fiddley bits of the interior (which I don’t do at 1/64th!). Say will you use real leather upholstery this time? 😁 

Dave B

Patrick, just stumbled across your latest, happiness. I’ll pull up and cheer you on.

Dave B

Great fleet! Thanks for the family pictures.

Dave B

Wipe on poly on both. On the hull, I applied it before the putty.

Dave B

James,

Looks good and you did a nice job on the deck. I used Bob’s practicum through most of the deck furniture. I thought his masting and rigging were a bit weak. I used logs in this forum, asked questions and got great help.

Dave B

We model for our pleasure and satisfaction. When we’re not satisfied, we have the pleasure of doing it again.

Looks good, nice recovery.

Dave B

Patrick, you continue to amaze! Excellent work and a great story (in your build log) to boot.

Dave B

Patrick, truly amazing!

Now, how about wine glasses on the coffee table?

Dave B

Nice recovery and good work with the false timbers. When you plank the bulwarks, consider if you want to add scuppers. These are best cut (actually better to file the scuppers) before setting the planks. I used a single plank with the scuppers cut in the bottom for the fore deck and on top for the quarter deck. I found this technique on another Bluenose build log (don't remember who) and it worked well for me. Here is a photo of my scuppers.

You will have the advantage of being able to mark the actual timber locations (hey your mistake may pay off).

Dave B

Patrick

Love the art work, when did you start painting murals?

Dave B

I too had trouble tapering the quarter deck planks. I tended to cut them then sand the width down which broke many times. At risk of running out of sticks, I did not run them full length under the cabin. That way I could reuse the broken planks. I later filled in the area under the cabin with various ends and scrap material. Not the proper way to build, but his was my first build so I was okay with cheating (or so I told myself).

I also found scraping the taper led to fewer broken planks. Hold the plank on edge on a hard flat surface. I used a no. 11 Exacto blade. Takes a bit of practice to avoid creating an wavy taper.

All that said, your “sanding stick” look like a good approach. I look forward to seeing how it works out. Working these “problems” is part of learning this hobby and a large portion of satisfaction in the completed model.

Dave B

Sanding sealer is a good idea. I finish sanded lightly with 600 grit paper and didn’t have trouble with fuzziness. Might be helpful to make a small sample deck planking to experiment with while not risking the ship. Just a thought.

Dave B

Very nice. A bit of scraping or sanding and clear coat (I use Wipe-on Poly) will make it snap and shouldn’t harm the waterway paint. If water based, test the clear coat on a sample board.

Dave B

Your dioramas would be excellent at three times the size, impressive to say the least. 

Dave B

Hi Gary. I just came across your build an am intrigued by your weathering. Far beyond my skill and ambition. This is a very nice project and turning out to be a beautiful model. I’ll happily pull up a chair and watch your progress.

Dave B

Patrick,

That is one attractive yacht which would make a great model.

Dave B

Dragzz,

Looks good. I see you reinforced the weak spot at the rudder post that most of us broke along the way. Repair looks fine and should hold. Looking at the false keel, it appears you may need some additional shaping at the stern. The rabbet should extend to the bearding line (the curve you show in the first pics). This is a fine taper so that the planked hull will be the same width as the rudder post. Keep up the good work.

Dave B