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Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw


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Hi everyone,

 

I'm in the process of working on the wales for my Pegasus, and plan on adding two rows of top and butt planking.  Earlier for my deck, I added top and butt planks, but those were hand-cut as the maple I was using was only 0.5mm thick.

 

I'm using 2mm pear for the wales.  I was thinking about using the taper jig on the Byrnes table saw to cut identical planks.  Since I'd like to keep all my digits, I was wondering if anyone had any tips for using the taper jig.  Specifically, how does one set up the hold downs for the plank?  The planks are only going to be about 6mm wide and maybe 135mm long, which doesn't leave much clearance from the saw blade.

 

Also, is it worth considering stacking up a bunch of planks and running them through the saw at once?  If so, how do you hold them all down?  Do you glue them together, cut the two tapers, then use isopropyl alcohol to separate them?  Or is it just better to cut each plank individually?

 

Thanks very much in advance!

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Thank you Greg, that's very helpful.  I believe I saw similar pictures in TFFM 3?

 

This might seem like a dumb question, but how and where did you use the push stick?  Do you hold the knurled knob on the taper jig to keep the jig against the fence, and with your left hand, hold the wood strip against the taper jig?  In your second picture, it seems like the push stick would have to be very thin, like on the order of a few millimeters given the small angle on the jig.

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Although I don't own this particular saw, I have and use a tapering jig for my old Preac. Note the lip on the end of the jig against which the stock sits. That in itself helps to push the stock through the blade. I normally stand on the right of the saw and with my right-hand fingers or a push stick held in my right hand (depending on the width of the stock) press the stock against that lip and into the taper jig while pushing the jig toward the blade with my left hand making sure the jig stays tight against the rip fence.

 

Cheers -

John

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John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!

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