tlevine Posted November 15, 2016 #31 Posted November 15, 2016 Thank you so much. Just seeing the step-by-step for the shield makes such a difference in understanding the technique. mtaylor, WackoWolf, Canute and 1 other 4 Toni Chairman Nautical Research Guild Member Nautical Research and Model Society Member Midwest Model Shipwrights Current Builds: Utrecht-1742 Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale Half Hull Planking Project Capstan Project Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale Echo Cross Section NRG Rigging Project Utrecht-1742 Gallery: Hannah - 1:36 scale.
willz Posted November 15, 2016 Author #32 Posted November 15, 2016 yes Toni, the step by step does show that its possible to complete a complicated piece, as you can see all the different stages dont look that difficult and are quite rough, but when you get to the end and clean the piece up it looks like a master carvers work!!!!! I use two types of blades Cog, the stanley blade (my favourite) and one with the steel back edge, i would like to point out that i do shape my blades to suit the job in hand, heres a couple of pics of my designer blades, I buy them in packs of 100 so I dont feel limited when grinding out new ones, as you can see in the pics i do like a rounded end, depending on what your doing I feel it easier to cut a line by rolling the blade rather than trying to cut into it, this does depend on the cut though. anyhow cheers all rules there is no rules mtaylor, tlevine, src and 9 others 12
the learner Posted December 13, 2016 #33 Posted December 13, 2016 wow, thank you for your insites on carving methods mtaylor and Canute 2 Cheers, GuyThe LearnerCurrent Member NRG,SMA Current Build: HMS Triton 1:48 on line
willz Posted January 6, 2017 Author #34 Posted January 6, 2017 (edited) This is how I went about carving the crown, first I shaped it in the lathe, the lathe I use is a metal working lathe, so I dont have a tool steady, so I gently shaped it using stanley blades. i have a lot of experience with this machine but i would not advise anyone to try this method without a tool steady Edited January 6, 2017 by williamDB tarbrush, aviaamator, Landrotten Highlander and 4 others 7
willz Posted January 6, 2017 Author #35 Posted January 6, 2017 Next I cut some tamiya masking tape to the desired thickness and stuck it on the top to act as a guide for cutting. Then having the basic shape I just carried on with stanley blades and my dremel to get the the stage shown in the last photo, still work in progress but no need to go mad at this scale GrandpaPhil, tarbrush, cog and 7 others 10
willz Posted January 6, 2017 Author #36 Posted January 6, 2017 whilst I was carving the two grooves in the bands at the top of the crownd I had a bit of a disaster !! Chipped a small lump out of one of the top bands, bit fed up about it but its not that easy to spot with the naked eye so going to have to live with it. I should have grooved the bands before hollowing them out Canute, GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and 1 other 4
willz Posted January 6, 2017 Author #37 Posted January 6, 2017 the last picture shows one of the orbs surrounding the crown has also chipped off but even with 20 20 eyesight its hard to spot with the naked eye. I would of liked to make the top bands thinner but I think the risk is too great cheers lads and lasses Willlz Ryland Craze, mtaylor, Landrotten Highlander and 13 others 16
Mirabell61 Posted January 6, 2017 #38 Posted January 6, 2017 wonderful carving work William, you have a great skill for doing so.... Nils Canute, Jack12477, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Current builds -Lightship Elbe 1 Completed - Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild - "Zeesboot" heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB clinker scratch build scale 1:24 - Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild - Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build - Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) "SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild) "HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan -"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96 (scratchbuild) -"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) "Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild) original was my grandfathers ship -"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 "Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32 under restoration / restoration finished "Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50
willz Posted May 29, 2017 Author #39 Posted May 29, 2017 when carving a figure always do the head first, this will always be the focal point of the veiwers, its hard to recover from small mistakes with faces. Chuck, Ryland Craze, tlevine and 10 others 13
willz Posted July 20, 2017 Author #40 Posted July 20, 2017 when carving at this small scale you`ve got to know when to stop, its all too easy to carry on for perfection and ruin your piece, my last photo shows the finished head that i am happy with, so now i can carry on with a little more confidence cog, Landrotten Highlander, Tigerdvr and 2 others 5
Alan Cabrera Posted February 7 #41 Posted February 7 On 1/6/2017 at 3:34 AM, willz said: whilst I was carving the two grooves in the bands at the top of the crownd I had a bit of a disaster !! Chipped a small lump out of one of the top bands, bit fed up about it but its not that easy to spot with the naked eye so going to have to live with it. I should have grooved the bands before hollowing them out This kind of information is gold. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these posts!
Recommended Posts